[romeomidhun]

Maruti is in serious threat to lose Ritz's market to rivals, IMO. They have to do a thorough revamp to Ritz and price it in the 4 - 6L category to retain its small yet significant customers, and to gain more. I guess Maruti is thinking like if there is the ugly Ritz in the showroom, customers will directly go and buy Swift by paying the premium. That period is over - there are better looking and performing cars in the market.

[pacman2881]

I have a 'feel' of a very mild noise/vibration from the wheel / tyres in my Ritz Vdi (As if something uneven stuck to the tyre). Went for wheel balancing and alignment and felt alright for sometime but then I realized it is still there.The SA told me that he doesn't find anything odd while riding (basically he test drove and said he finds it alright). But I still feel it. Recently a friend of mine also confirmed that he is able to feel it in my car.
Any idea what this could be? Any other Ritz owner has had this issue?
PS - I don't find uneven wear in my tyres. The feel is there even when the car is coasting in neutral. It is very much noticeable at around 40 Km/h

[Granville]

@pacman, for the problem you have quoted, one may try rotating the wheels if it has not been done earlier. Wheel rotation is generally the cure for this humming noise/vibration issue, especially since it is present even when one is coasting in neutral. If one may ask, how many kms has your car run?

[chncar]

Originally Posted by Prodigy07

Thought of sharing this piece of information to the Ritz owners.

My 2012 Ritz VDi didn't have Day & Night IRVM. It came with a normal one. IMHO the recent Ritz V/Z variants have Day & Night IRVM. So, I got this fixed in my Ritz from MSM Chennai. Fits perfectly. No additional holes required. Cost - 502/-

Hi Prodigy,

Would you be able to post a pic of the mirror, or at least describe it?

I ordered a day night mirror from the Zdi model for my Vdi from a Maruti dealer, and after a long delay when I actually received it it seemed identical to the non-day/night mirror. It does not have the small switch or lever to flip between day and night modes that day/night mirrors usually have.

The service center guy claimed that it was a day/night mirror and that he could tell by looking at the reflection, not sure if it really is a mirror that works in night mode always or he is just talking nonsense. It isn't one of the new gen electrochromatic ones for sure.

Thanks!

[a4anurag]

Originally Posted by pacman2881

I have a 'feel' of a very mild noise/vibration from the wheel / tyres in my Ritz Vdi (As if something uneven stuck to the tyre).

Any idea what this could be? Any other Ritz owner has had this issue?

Can you find out from which side of the car are you getting it like front or rear after this left side or right side so that it would be easy to attack the problem.

Since you say tyres look good without any uneven wear, look at the brake pads, discs as they could have uneven wear causing then to rub and give you that sound. Check both front and rear brakes.

Does this sound grow with speeds or remains constant?

Originally Posted by chncar

It does not have the small switch or lever to flip between day and night modes that day/night mirrors usually have.

he is just talking nonsense.

He is talking non-sense buddy. The day and night mirror busy have that lever at the base of the IRVM to change the modes. Attaching a picture for your help and easier understanding and purchase.



Hope this helps.

Source: Google search actually but it is of someone's ownership report on Team BHP.

Anurag.

[pacman2881]

Originally Posted by Granville

@pacman, for the problem you have quoted, one may try rotating the wheels if it has not been done earlier. Wheel rotation is generally the cure for this humming noise/vibration issue, especially since it is present even when one is coasting in neutral. If one may ask, how many kms has your car run?

Originally Posted by a4anurag

Can you find out from which side of the car are you getting it like front or rear after this left side or right side so that it would be easy to attack the problem.

Since you say tyres look good without any uneven wear, look at the brake pads, discs as they could have uneven wear causing then to rub and give you that sound. Check both front and rear brakes.

Does this sound grow with speeds or remains constant?

Anurag.

Thanks for your fast response! The car has run 50k Kms. I am unable to pin point the side but it could be front left.
I have just left the car at service station. I have requested the SA to rotate the tyres and check the brakes as well. The SA also made a preliminary check and said bearings seem to be fine. I will update once the car comes back.

An unrelated question on tyre size-
While chatting the SA mentioned that using larger tyres (even those similar to Zxi/Zdi) in L & V variants is not advisable as the steering set up is not beefed up to handle the larger tyres. As a result he said issues can creep up earlier than normal in steering/suspension if I use larger tyres in my car. On one side it sounds logical but I am surprised Maruti will be making different steering / suspension components for different variants.

Any comments?

[a4anurag]

Originally Posted by pacman2881

I will update once the car comes back

On one side it sounds logical but I am surprised Maruti will be making different steering / suspension components for different variants.

This is not feasible and practical. If is a crazy affair if Maruti will have to make steering systems for individual variants. Inventories and taking the steering system on variant basis on such a large scale would be maddening for them. And moreover when the car was designed this issue also would have taken care off.

LXi / LDi / VXi / VDi - 165/80 R 14

ZXi / ZDi - 185/65 R 15.

The overall diameter remains the same but yes the load on the steering system is more on a 'Z' variant but not alarming enough to have problems.

Anurag.

[chncar]

Originally Posted by a4anurag

He is talking non-sense buddy. The day and night mirror busy have that lever at the base of the IRVM to change the modes. Attaching a picture for your help and easier understanding and purchase.



Anurag.

Thanks, will try to get it replaced.

[deepclutch]

I have a July 2013 model Ritz VDI and first service done and now nearing 4000kms. I plan to do a one-time oil change at 5000kms for the sake of running-in although the car came with synthetic oil default. rest, want to stick with 10K or 6 months oil change interval.

my queries:
for new swift-d's there is a circular recommending synthetic oils and 10,000kms oil change. owners manual of my Ritz also says the same.
2nd free service at 10,000kms and consecutive services at 10k interval.
since new swift-d's have 10K recommended oil change with synthetic oil 5W40, will this hold true for 2013 Ritz models? is there a circular issued for new Ritz-d as well?
http://www.team-bhp.com/forum/techni...ml#post2843770

I want to know, if I can use mineral oil in the new Ritz-d and change every 5000kms without voiding warranty?

I was going through below post:
http://www.team-bhp.com/forum/techni...ml#post2845677

is the DDIS engines Ritz comes are either of Maruti-Suzuki powertrain or imported Fiat-powetrain? and if yes, is there any tell-tale differences by which we can spot this.

[sauravdc]

Originally Posted by deepclutch

I have a July 2013 model Ritz VDI and first service done and now nearing 4000kms. I plan to do a one-time oil change at 5000kms for the sake of running-in although the car came with synthetic oil default. rest, want to stick with 10K or 6 months oil change interval.

my queries:
for new swift-d's there is a circular recommending synthetic oils and 10,000kms oil change. owners manual of my Ritz also says the same.
2nd free service at 10,000kms and consecutive services at 10k interval.
since new swift-d's have 10K recommended oil change with synthetic oil 5W40, will this hold true for 2013 Ritz models? is there a circular issued for new Ritz-d as well?
http://www.team-bhp.com/forum/techni...ml#post2843770

I want to know, if I can use mineral oil in the new Ritz-d and change every 5000kms without voiding warranty?

I was going through below post:
http://www.team-bhp.com/forum/techni...ml#post2845677

is the DDIS engines Ritz comes are either of Maruti-Suzuki powertrain or imported Fiat-powetrain? and if yes, is there any tell-tale differences by which we can spot this.

Hi,

Mine is a "new" Ritz VDI of early 2013. Your car must also be the same.
You can safely stick to 10000kms oil change. Earlier MASS used to do 1st oil change @ 1000kms during 1st service thereafter 10000 kms. Now the new age DDIS engines do not require the "running in" oil change. 1st change @ 10000kms. We have discussed this earlier on a different thread.
These engines come with synthetic oil and continue to use synthetic only. If you however choose to change oil @ 5000kms interval it will not affect warranty. However this frequent change is not required. My car is due for its 3rd service in another 1700 kms and it will be its first oil change.

Ritz and Swift use the same 1.3MJD engine. Infact all MS diesels use this engine. These engines are Fiat engines, tweaked in the Manesar plant to suit MS vehicles. MS engineers have replaced the original timer belt with a timer chain with shoe for durability. This does away with torn belt problems as seen in TATA vehicles after 100000 kms.

The oil change schedule is 10K or 1yr whichever is earlier AFAIK.

Regards,
Saurav

[sauravdc]

Originally Posted by SlowRider

A quick question to all you Ritz diesel drivers.

What's the RPM at which you'd rather up-shift than accelerate? I'm talking about an all-out overtaking manouvre where you find yourself hard on the throttle in 3rd or 4th gear.
I used to up-shift right after the torque peak at 2000 RPM but then realized that the car still had some shove in it. I still don't take it past 3000 RPM. I recently came across this article (http://www.procivic.com/pages-horsep...que/index.html) that suggests that the ideal shift point is closer to the peak power RPM. Going by the spec sheet, peak power RPM is a crazy 4000! In your experience, does it pay to push it close to 4000 RPM?

Hi all,

That was too much maths for me. But I upshift after 1500 rpm. Initially I used to drive like petrolheads as Anurag said. His experience is 100000 kms diesel, mine 8300 kms diesel, hence a lot to learn from him. Even I am changing (still to change) my downshifting pattern and am getting better mileage.

I do not cross the 2000 rpm mark for a long time just because of the turbo surge vs bumper to bumper traffic in Kolkata. The surge is enjoyable (like a flight taking off) but risky in Kolkata city, where, as you are surging on the turbo boost, the driver ahead of you has applied emergency brakes, since a pedestrian has hopped in front of his car with his hand held high akin to a stop signal used by traffic cops, and vehicular signal is GREEN!!

I do use the surge while climbing flyover and sharp overtakes. RPM then below 3000 (as seen by my wife - my eyes on the road).

Regards,
Saurav

[a4anurag]

Originally Posted by deepclutch

2nd free service at 10,000kms and consecutive services at 10k interval.

I want to know, if I can use mineral oil in the new Ritz-d and change every 5000kms without voiding warranty?

I never used synthetic oil in mine till 30K kms as synthetic oil slows down the run-in process. I fought a million times with the SA and warning him not to fill synthetic till I say. Till 30K I used to change the oil and air filter every 5000 kms but after 30K I am sticking to the schedule of 10K changeover. Earlier 5K change was every 1.5 months and now I do 10K kms every 3 months.

Change the oil at 5K it is better for car and it's life and no void to warranty.

Originally Posted by deepclutch

is the DDIS engines Ritz comes are either of Maruti-Suzuki powertrain or imported Fiat-powetrain? and if yes, is there any tell-tale differences by which we can spot this.

Good question. Gurus can answer.

Anurag.

[a4anurag]

Originally Posted by sauravdc

Now the new age DDIS engines do not require the "running in" oil change.

The oil change schedule is 10K or 1yr whichever is earlier AFAIK.

The new engines may come with great technology or whatever but I still feel that the run-in process is the same for any engine so it is best if the oil is changed at 1000 kms. Due the run-in process metal filing would be found in the oil sump which is needed to be removed so the first oil change does get rid of the metal pieces.

The OEM schedule is every 10K or 1 year, which ever is earlier.

Originally Posted by sauravdc

Hi all,

That was too much maths for me. But I upshift after 1500 rpm.

I do not cross the 2000 rpm mark for a long time just because of the turbo surge vs bumper to bumper traffic in Kolkata.

Try shifting just at 2000 RPM Mark and watch the overall driving happiness you get. Don't let the turbo spool up to its peak and then upshift.

I love the engine for its roll-on feel in third, fourth and fifth gear. It is a wonderful feel. The surge feel is addictive I agree but that's what diesel engines are meant for.

Anurag.

[sauravdc]

Originally Posted by a4anurag

The new engines may come with great technology or whatever but I still feel that the run-in process is the same for any engine so it is best if the oil is changed at 1000 kms. Due the run-in process metal filing would be found in the oil sump which is needed to be removed so the first oil change does get rid of the metal pieces.

The OEM schedule is every 10K or 1 year, which ever is earlier.



Try shifting just at 2000 RPM Mark and watch the overall driving happiness you get. Don't let the turbo spool up to its peak and then upshift.

I love the engine for its roll-on feel in third, fourth and fifth gear. It is a wonderful feel. The surge feel is addictive I agree but that's what diesel engines are meant for.

Anurag.

Hi Anurag,

Took your advice and tried up-shifting exactly @ 2000 rpm just before the turbo kicks in, a pure bliss !! Did this for 1st to 2nd (not much of a pleasure), 2nd to 3rd (pure bliss), 3rd to 4th (with caution).

However, since yesterday, crossing 1500 rpm and driving in 3rd gear is becoming impossible with Durga Puja starting off and Kolkata roads are now choc-a-bloc.

Yesterday drove mostly in 2nd gear and sometimes on 3rd for whatever we had to travel. Today drove mostly on 1st and 2nd gears. Tomorrow I hope I'll be driving in Neutral and 1st gears!! Thereafter, the car better be in garage !!

I'm consciously upshifting late and downshifting early, not letting the engine lug. Yet to tell the difference on mileage, but driving comfort has increased.
For mileage, I'll have to wait till the Durga Puja is over and Kolkata traffic returns to its normal shape.

-----------------------------------

The synthetic oils that are used now are 5W40 grade of CG4/B3 (API & ACEA standards). These oils are Euro 5 compliant and in the US even 5W30 is being used in some 1.2/1.4 lt engines. These oils do not require change @ first 1000 kms, direct change @ 10000kms. I was told by MASS that there are no metal dust in these (so called) "sealed" engines. However, 5W40 is roughly Rs 1100 per lt Vs 15W40 (the earlier grade) which is roughly Rs 400 per lt. Does make sense not to change oil in first 1000 kms. Even My car did not. Till now (checked today) the oil has not become "sticky" as we are used to seeing old engine oils become. But the oil was black today morning (ODO 8450).

Surprisingly, Fiat (the original supplier of these engines to MS) suggests using 5W40 worldwide and oil change @ 15000 kms and MS recommends 10000 kms. Refer to Fiat 9.55535-S2 standards. MS suggests (Source: Owners Manual) using 5W40 for DDIS engines produced after Jan 2012. They mark it as preferred. However, they also allow using 15W40 oil.

Now the fun is, Owner's Manual says, use 5W40 oil of API CG4 grade and AECA B3 grade. However, none of the oils meet all these criteria together. Most 5W40 oils are either missing CG4 criteria or B3 criteria. 5W40 oils are mostly SN/CF/SM API grade, some are SJ/CF4/CG4 API grade, for (API) SN/CF/SM they are ACEA A3/B3/B4 grade and for (API) SJ/CF4/CG4 they are ACEA E3/E5 grade. Oils that meet both CG4 and B3 criteria together are 15W40 grade. Total confusion ... !!

Finally, decided to see what Fiat says about the oil and found about Fiat 9.55535-S2 standard.

I am 1500 kms away from the oil change and am thinking what to do ...
5W40 or 15W40 ?
Hoping to do some survey tomorrow for further inputs with the MASS and FIAT ASS in Kolkata.
The next step would be consulting a Petroleum Engineer !! (that will be three much AFAIR).

Regards,
Saurav

[a4anurag]

Originally Posted by sauravdc

Took your advice and tried up-shifting exactly @ 2000 rpm just before the turbo kicks in, a pure bliss !!

A bliss I love to keep trying. Gets a smile on the face. One suggestion: as much as possible avaoid clutch riding. Slot the gear in first or second gear and slowly release the clutch, the car will keep moving without stalling.

Originally Posted by sauravdc

I was told by MASS that there are no metal dust in these (so called) "sealed" engines. However, 5W40 is roughly Rs 1100 per lt Vs 15W40 (the earlier grade) which is roughly Rs 400 per lt. Does make sense not to change oil in first 1000 kms.

I don't care what Maruti or Fiat have to say or recommend as I just don't go by their word. I love my car and my engine so I changed the oil (15W40 - used to cost 300/litre In 2011) every 5K kms till 30K kms service post which the interval is 10K kms. The engibe feels great till 8000-8500 kms from oil change post which the NVH from engine goes high and the overall clatter is evident.

Originally Posted by sauravdc

I am 1500 kms away from the oil change and am thinking what to do ...
5W40 or 15W40 ?

It depwnds on the environment conditions in Kolkata. I would recommend use 5W40 for the car.

In mine the oil is by Shell/Castrol with the 5W40 grade. This is the synthetic variant and I change it every 10K kms.

Anurag.