[Neelanjan]

Extremely well drafted and written.You are getting some great fuel efficiency figures that too from a turbo petrol.

[GauRanVid]

1776 km update -

Today Alcazar completed 1776 kms, almost 1000 kms after my first service and these 1000 Kms have been quite eventful. Below are the details:

Driving Experience:

1. Out of 1776 kms, completed multiple highway round trips of 360kms each, totaling 1080 kms to my hometown. Got 18.3-18.6kmpl mileage while going and around 16-17kmpl while returning. Speed was between 85-95kmph, mostly on cruise control. While going I was alone in car, AC continuously running at 22 degrees and small suitcase. While returning, my father was with me, AC continuously running between 22-23 degrees, including rear AC and 3rd row was down to create space for lots of luggage.
2. In city, where I live and does short drive of 10km every week for groceries, I get around 10kmpl.
3. Current average mileage since the date of purchase is around 12.7 kmpl. The average mileage does not increase a lot even if the running mileage hovers at 18kmpl for highway trips. Looks like Hyundai has tuned the software like this. I have tried a lot to increase average mileage but max it could reach was 12.9kmpl.
4. Pickup in 2nd gear still plays tricks with me. On downshifting from 3rd gear, the car crawls in 2nd gear till the time clutch is not pressed but if I press it once and the car goes below 10 kmph and 900 rpm, it jerks. So, to keep it moving either I drop down to 1st gear or accelerate hard to get into rev range. As per my experience, these are the gear ratios:
   

   1st gear - 00-15 kmph, 0-1200 rpm
   2nd gear - 15-35 kmph, >1000 rpm
   3rd gear - 35-60 kmph, >1000 rpm
   4th gear - 60-80 kmph, >1000 rpm
   

   I am yet to fully adapt to this turbo engine tuning and have to be heavy on accelerator to keep the car moving in traffic or downshift to 1st to prevent stalling. Still, I would say, my Duster had better gear ratios and it was easy driving in 2nd gear with no need to downshift to 1st gear unless car comes to halt.
5. Car upshift indicator on console is very aggressive and even if I reach 1500-1600rpm at certain speed, car notifies to upshift. I try to be as close as possible to have good shifting and rather than relying on upshift indicator, I also rely on engine sound.
6. Car does have downshift indicator. Yes, I know I mentioned in my first review that this does not have compared to my Duster but it's not completely true. In my recent drive, I saw downshift indicator displaying down arrow with 4 when I was in 5th gear. I tried to reduce the speed and rpm to 30kmph and 1000rpm in 4th gear, but did not get a downshift indicator for 3rd gear. I tried to go even to single digit speed and <1000rpm in 3rd gear but did not get any downshift indicator for 2nd gear. Twice I got only for 4th gear downshift. So, upshift indicator is aggressive but downshift indicator is not aggressive and not available for any other gear (atleast I did not get it). Could not get any pic as I was driving and did not want to compromise safety. Don't know the reason for such weirdness by Hyundai in providing downshift indicator only from 5th to 4th gear and not for any other gear. If anyone else is able to get the downshift indicator for other gears in new Alcazar Manual or new Creta Manual, please let me know and I will try to recreate the scenario.

Windshield Crack:

So, I was going to my hometown early March and was doing around 90kmph. I was on extreme right, in overtake lane on highway near Pilakhuwa. Suddenly heard a loud bang. Thought my sunroof glass broke, looked up (sunroof curtain was open) but could not see anything and since I was on highway and doing high speed, did not stop. After half an hour or so, I saw crack in front of me on windshield coming from right hand side. Stopped for a tea break after Garhmukteshwar and to my horror, it was a major chip to the extreme right, just adjacent to black dots (frits). It was not directly in my sight, so I drove down cautiously to home and parked the car outside for the night. Next day, could not check the car due to work and it was under direct sunlight. When I checked it the following day, the crack got extended and now it was directly in front of my eyes. As the outside temperatures were quite high during the day, I kept the windows rolled down a bit to manage cabin temperature and to let the hot air escape. Once I got back to Indirapuram, started search for reliable windshield change.

1. Called Hyundai Capital, Noida and they asked for car to be left for 4 days atleast, if I go for insurance, had to pay around INR 1800 for admin fee and rest will be taken care off.
2. Called Windshield Experts and they connected me to their Vaishali, Ghaziabad branch. The person quoted around INR 1600 for admin fee and around 4 hours job which included approval time of 2-3 hours from ICICI Lombard and rest is glass change time. Glass is AIS and Without insurance, if they show in bill, glass is for Creta, cost is INR 8500 else for Alcazar, cost is INR 9200. The reason for this is engine size. As per their procedure, Creta's engine is less than 1500cc whereas Alcazar's is greater than 1500cc. Actually, windshield glass size is exactly same for both cars. Also, turbo engines are same for both the cars. Could not understand the reason for discrepancy.
3. Went to my trusted FNG with whom I used to get my Duster checked for minor fixes. Rais bhai is a genuine person and since I am visiting him from 2012, I had full trust on him. I told him the problem and he suggested me Windshield Hotspot in Vaishali, Ghaziabad.

On 15th March afternoon, I went to both Windshield Experts and Windshield Hotspot. Windshield Experts had a good shop and the person there was quite knowledgeable. He told me that while taking out glass from car, especially in Creta and Alcazar, the left and right side panels are plastic which covers the end and have plastic clips to securely hold them. They don't take responsibility for those plastic panels and there are chances that they might crack and each cost INR 2500. So, there is a risk. Also, he told that glass change cost would be INR 8500 as they can show it Creta.
I left their shop and went to Windshield Hotspot. Met Mr Shobhit and whatever knowledge I got prior, asked all questions. Shobhit ji was very kind to give more than an hour explaining me everything and assured me that they have changed windshield in hundreds of Cretas and till date no plastic panel got broken. Mr Shobhit had automobile background and was Service Engineer/ Manager at Honda, Vaishali in past before deciding on opening this shop. I was very relieved and as Rais bhai recommended him, decided to go with them. They deal in Saint Gobain glasses and are authorised franchise. They use Urathen Norton as adhesive instead of Silicon bond as recommended by Sait Gobain.Final price quoted was INR 6475. Booked an appointment of 11am for next day.
Next day, I was there sharp on time and was attended by Mr Shobhit's father. He is a humble man from Kerala and we had great discussion. Meanwhile, Santosh, the person who replaced the glass, arrived and started the process. Mr Shobhit brought the new glass from their warehouse. They both first removed the side plastic panels very carefully but still one plastic clip at the bottom on left side panel broke. The panels though were perfectly out. Santosh then used a tool to run it all along the sides of glass to break/cut the original adhesive. Shobhit removed the IRVM connector for Day/Night shift and Bluelink features from windshield. They both cautiously removed the old glass. Car was covered from inside using large cloth to prevent any glass or debris spillage. Once the glass was removed, Santosh vacuumed the dashboard to make sure nothing is there. He removed any extra adhesive bond from body panels. He then prepped the new glass and applied Urathen all around. MRP of one tube Urathen is INR 1500 aprox. In my view, they applied almost 60-70% of the tube. The compound is quite thick and the gun required lot of pressure. Finally, using vacuum cups, they both lifted the glass. There are two holes on the top left and right corners of car where two small knob like pieces from glass inserts. This makes sure that glass is in perfect spot. After fitting the glass, they pressed it lightly from outside all around. Santosh meanwhile, used hot gun to remove HSRP and Pollution stickers from old glass and afixed them on new glass. After waiting for around 45 mins to an hour, Mr Shobhit shot an ownership experience video of mine. He suggested to drive slowly, preventing jerks as much as possible and once at home leave the car for 4 hours to let the glass settle down completely. Followed his advice and left the car in basement parking for the whole night.
Drove the car next day and could not hear any sound of air seeping inside cabin. have not done water test but I am 100% sure there will be no challenge. In all, I am very much satisfied with the quality of workmanship, neat and clean work area and very courteous owner. Would recommend others, if they want to change the windshield, try them.


12V Battery issue:

While going to Aligarh on 18th March, got call from Capital Hyundai that technicians have arrived from factory and would want to check the car. Since, I was not available so told Ms Simran that I will contact them once I am back. So, called them again on 29th March asking whether the software update has arrived and Ms Simran confirmed the same. Booked an appointment for today, 30th March and went there. Mr Pawan, GM Service was personally looking in the matter as earlier I wrote an email to Hyundai. He assigned a technician and the whole process is as follows:

1. He connected the diagnostic tool to OBD port and using Hyundai Software in tablet collected current details of ECU and Battery.
2. The software did not give correct details so he then disconnected the -ve terminal of battery and waited for approx 5mins before reconnecting it.
3. Reconnected the software to read the car via OBD port. Ran same scan and this time everything came ok.
4. He then initiated the ECU Upgrade. Old software version was 2461 and new software version is 2521 (pic attached).
5. It took 5-10 mins to update the ECU software. During this time, all lights flashed on dashboard, cabin lights went ON.
6. Post update, he re-scanned the car to make sure nothing broke and it all passed.
7. Checked radio, lights, horn, AC and all were working. Engine was running ok.
8. Observed that during upgrade, remaining km range shot up from 84km to 101km, don't know the reason but it settled later to 83km when I drove back home.

So, it was just a 15-20 mins job which can either be done at service centre or the technician can visit home but it cannot be done via OTA. I hope that with this update, 12v battery issue will get resolved. I asked the technician what fix has been done, but he was not aware.
Hyudai has officially communicated the service centres to call owners with cars manufactured between 06/2024 to 02/2025 and apply the update. I will monitor the car for some days by keeping it idle and checking for the 12v warning occurrence. I have full faith on Hyundai that they have resolved the issue.

Will try to keep the thread alive as I enjoy this beautiful car. Till then, Bye.

After 1776kms, this is what I get. Should have been better but still ok.


Rais Bhai Shop, if anyone around Indirapuram can visit, good knowledge of cars


Windhsield Hotspot location in Vaishali, Ghaziabad


Crack in the line of sight


After Panel removal


Right panel being carefully removed


After both panels removal


Look how major the crack was


Applying the bond


Cleaned surface before applying glass


Suction cups for lifting


Placing securely


Old windshield showing anchor points


ECU Upgrade process (Apologies for horizontal pics as I was sitting on passenger side)


ECU Upgrade successful


Rescanning to confirm

[GauRanVid]

Originally Posted by UchihaItachi

Hi

Over the last 1-2 months I have observed a weird problem with my Alcazar 1.5D AT. At 55-60 kmph the whole car starts jerking/shaking quite strongly. This doesn’t happen every time, but has now happened quite often. Initially I dismissed it as one off.

The issue isn’t resolved when I change gears using shifters or even when I speed up or slow down. When I take my foot off the accelerator and car slows down to ~30 kmph, the shaking stops. When I speed up again sometimes it reoccurs while at times it doesn’t.
I suspected this might be a wheel/tire issue. Have got my tires rotated and balanced, but still the issue persists.

Anyone else facing similar issue with Creta/Alcazar diesel AT? I am planning to visit the SC soon.

PS. I have moved to Shell fuel since the last month or so. Could that be an issue?

I can relate to your observation. If it happens in manual mode, then the reason of jerks is that car is not in correct gear based on speed and rpm. The engine is in high gear and not getting enough fuel, hence the jerks. It happens in my Petrol Manual as well. Every engine is tuned to keep the revs and speed in check based on gear. My suggestion is to be in rev and speed range based on gear and downshift if you feel speed and rpm are less and keep a bit heavy foot on accelerator to keep moving. I am too facing the same experience as I moved from Diesel Duster which has better gear ratios. You need to adapt to new driving style based on this engine as I am doing .

I don't think fuel change has anything to do with this.

[rkv_2401]

Originally Posted by GauRanVid

1776 km update -
[*] Pickup in 2nd gear still plays tricks with me. On downshifting from 3rd gear, the car crawls in 2nd gear till the time clutch is not pressed but if I press it once and the car goes below 10 kmph and 900 rpm, it jerks. So, to keep it moving either I drop down to 1st gear or accelerate hard to get into rev range.

I believe this is normal behavior, my 2.0L diesel Elantra does the same thing. I haven't driven a Creta/Alcazar manual since the first generation, but 10km/hr sounds a bit low for 2nd gear, you could downshift into first at that point. I find shifting up to 2nd at 20km/hr and 2000RPM to be comfortable on my car, but I'm not sure if its gear ratios are the same as your car's.

[*] Car upshift indicator on console is very aggressive and even if I reach 1500-1600rpm at certain speed, car notifies to upshift. I try to be as close as possible to have good shifting and rather than relying on upshift indicator, I also rely on engine sound.

Sounds like the upshift indicator is quite aggressive. You get peak torque above 1500RPM, so I don't understand why it asks you to shift up as soon as you get there. I'd say these turbo engines are quite comfortable shifting up at 1800-2000RPM. Anything lower would put the engine too far out of it's power-band in the next gear.

Wish you many happy miles with your new car.