[chiranjitp]

AC Fix

So, I again went back to the AC guy to fix the AC (hopefully for once & all). The mechanic checked the pressure & as expected pressure was on the lower side, there was a minor leak somewhere. First doubt was the recently replaced compressor back plate, checked that & thankfully that wasn't leaking. After a bit of brain storming he finally found the leak, the NRV/one way valve (Pin in AC mechanic local language) on the high pressure side was leaking (I am not sure about what it's called, expert please correct it). It was decided that we would replace both the valves, high pressure & low pressure side. They are cheap at Rs. 100 per piece. To replace the parts, whole AC refrigerant had to be released, then went in the new parts. The mechanic did a leak test (used nitrogen), found no leak. Then did the vacuum pulling for a good 20 minutes. Finally refilled the AC refrigerant & checked the low & high side pressure.

The source of leak this time:

Originally Posted by vigsom

1. Connect the gauges and see what pressures you see on the low and high side. Does it show a typical 35psi low and 170 psi high with compressor in operation?

The final high side pressure was 180 psi & low was around 40 psi. Here's a photo of the same (though the gauge reading isn't very clear):



It's been almost 2 months since the repairs were carried out & AC till date is cooling fine. Of course with the present Covid situation, the car hasn't run much. Fingers crossed that the AC issue (s) is finally solved.

A warning light on the dashboard

2 days later the battery/alternator light started glowing on the dashboard, it would come & go. Thankfully my aftermarket Sony HU has an option to display the voltage, it was showing 10.8V, generally it is over 13V when the engine is on. Immediately I figured out that the alternator was not charging the battery. I switched off the AC & HU, continued on my journey home (it was late in the night). Next morning went to the nearest electrician to get it looked at, the battery thankfully had enough juice to start the car. I didn't have any doubt on the battery, it was hardly one year old. The electrician checked the voltage, found it low & told me that the alternator wasn't charging the battery. By this time I was ready for an alternator overhaul.

The alternator warning light:



The voltage output then:



Before removing the alternator (for overhaul), the electrician checked the alternator belt for tension & found it was loose. He tightened the belt (as per requirement) & checked the voltage, the alternator was now charging the battery properly. The voltage on the HU was around 13.4V at idling (with no load). Learnt a new thing as well, most Swifts have a Denso alternator, whereas my Swift (or for that matter any G series Swift) has a Lucas-TVS alternator. The internal parts of the alternator are similar to the old WagonR (F10D) alternator & the internal parts (required for overhauling) are a bit hard to come by nowadays. Now as to how the alternator belt became loose, it must have happened during the AC work. The AC mechanic fiddled with the AC belt many times.

Need for Bass

I have a simple music setup in the Swift, a single DIN Sony HU (A-410BT) powering 2 sets of speakers on the doors. The front speakers are a pair of AVATAR CBR-620 components, with tweeters placed near the ORVM adjuster. The rear speakers are a pair of AVATAR coaxials. The system sounded decent enough, with good clarity (aided by the front components). Bass on the other hand was lacking & when you are in your 20s, you want some bass. I initially had plans to put a 4 channel amplifier, drive the front components from the front channel & power a sub-woofer (in a box enclosure) by bridging the rear channel. Somehow the plan didn't materialize.

Last month a good friend of mine told me that he has a sub-woofer (in a tube enclosure) & a 2 channel amplifier that he no longer uses, if I wanted I could have them . I immediately said yes to him & got them fitted in my Swift. I only had to buy a wiring kit & pay for the installation charges. The sub-woofer in question is a JBL unit in a tube enclosure aka bass-tube (GT-X1150T), the amplifier model is Blaupunkt EMA 255, a 2 channel amplifier. I am personally not a fan of how bass tubes sounds, find them too boomy for my taste (nowadays). Would have preferred a sub-woofer in a box enclosure.

The bass-tube:



The amplifier:



The sound output is decent, the bass-tube has added the much needed low end punch. I have lowered the gain levels on the amplifier & have turned on the LPF in the amplifier, so that the bass-tube isn't too overpowering. I am for now very satisfied with how my setup sounds. A decent sound system is much needed in my car, since it helps to drone out the rattles .

The equipment that my friend gifted was previously doing duty in his 03 Zen LX (the one on my front post). The bass-tube & the amplifier were fitted back in 2013 & this huge bass-tube was too much for the tiny Zen, though we didn't care. We were 19 then & wanted all the bass in the world. Had many memorable drives in that Zen, with windows down, music at full volume.

The bass-tube in the boot of the Zen:

[chiranjitp]

It was always a dream for me (& most petrol-heads I suppose) to have a brilliant rolling shot taken of my car. Today it came true, thanks to my good friend (& fellow car lover) Shankhanil Tamuli. It may seem strange to non car guys, but for us a good photo of our car matters more than having a good photo of ourselves.

Presenting to all this brilliant shot of my Swift:



P.S- The Swift was launched 16 years back, even today it doesn't look out of place among the sea of modern hatchbacks. The Swift is not exactly what I would call a timeless design (like a Polo, Punto), but rather a funky design that hasn't aged.

[chiranjitp]

Originally Posted by chiranjitp

Came back after shopping, started the car & moved the gear knob to 1st gear, the gear shifting felt very loose. Released the clutch, the engine died, tried to engage reverse gear, no luck there as well. Then after a few attempts I realized that the gearbox is stuck in 3rd gear .

My mechanic told me that there's a small bush which locks the cable to the GB & it is missing from my car (as in it broke off). The mechanic tightened the cable with some copper wires & told me that this jugaad will last the distance. I on the other hand wanted a permanent solution, which meant replacing the whole cable shifting assembly (which costs Rs. 2101). I went home that day with the jugaad fix & the shifting was back to normal.

I consulted DBHPian (& good friend) Leoshashi regarding this, he advised me to get the whole set replaced (since the small bush wasn't sold separately). So, went back to the FNG to get the part replaced.

An Update regarding the work carried out:

As it turns out the small bush is available for sale separately & costs only Rs. 22 . The part number isn't mentioned in any MSIL car's individual part catalogue, strangely. Had I known about this part then, I could have saved 2k. This part should fit in other Marutis as well, having a similar arrangement. The part number was shared with me by a fellow Swift G13B owner.

Part Number: 28313M86J00
Price: Rs. 22.

Photo of the bush (courtesy Boodmo):

[Leoshashi]

Originally Posted by chiranjitp

As it turns out the small bush is available for sale separately & costs only Rs. 22 . The part number isn't mentioned in any MSIL car's individual part catalogue, strangely.

Thanks for sharing. This part existed, but was used as a fix in diesel cars(the 86J part number suggests exactly that). Weirdly this part doesn't show up for Petrol swifts in all searches. Hence I hadn't recommended. There are a lot of such small parts which exists, but not mentioned anywhere in MS catalogs. Only few workshops and mechanics are aware due to their hands on experience.

Nevertheless thanks for sharing and hope someone benefits from this bit of knowledge.

Regards,
Shashi

[LONG_TOURER]

Very nicely written thread. What could one ask for when we get ownership review of two cult cars in a single thread. You experience of car purchase made me nostalgic when we bought our 2nd car which was a M800 NAC in 2005 after a long gap of 16 years. The first car being fiat 1100D which we kept till 1994 and had to sell off due to our financial condition.

[chiranjitp]

Originally Posted by Leoshashi

Thanks for sharing. This part existed, but was used as a fix in diesel cars(the 86J part number suggests exactly that). Weirdly this part doesn't show up for Petrol swifts in all searches. Hence I hadn't recommended. There are a lot of such small parts which exists, but not mentioned anywhere in MS catalogs. Only few workshops and mechanics are aware due to their hands on experience.

Thanks Shashi for the detailed explanation. There are indeed many such parts which only people with hands on experience know about.

Originally Posted by LONG_TOURER

Very nicely written thread. What could one ask for when we get ownership review of two cult cars in a single thread. You experience of car purchase made me nostalgic when we bought our 2nd car which was a M800 NAC in 2005 after a long gap of 16 years. The first car being fiat 1100D which we kept till 1994 and had to sell off due to our financial condition.

Thanks LONG_TOURER . We too had a M800 in our family, a 2009 M800 AC that belonged to my uncle (sold in 2019 after doing over 100k km). I learnt driving in that M800 & our 99 Omni, I even took that M800 to my college once (440km from Guwahati). I even now enjoy getting behind the wheel of a M800, M800 has a special analogue feel to it.

Here are a few old photos of my uncle's M800 with my Zen:

[chiranjitp]

DIY: Variable intermittent wiper upgrade

Inspired by this brilliant thread by Dbhpian audioholic, link: https://www.team-bhp.com/forum/diy-d...r-marutis.html (DIY: Adding "variable intermittent wipers" to the Celerio & other Marutis). I too decided to try this mod in my 06 Swift. Our Ecosport gets this features & I personally find it very useful, so wanted to have it in the Swift as well.

The biggest doubt in my mind was whether the S-Cross stalk would work in my gen 1 Swift, the S-Cross stalk is a bit different looking & of course my Swift is a very old model. Recently someone did this mod on the last gen WagonR & it worked perfectly, last gen WagonR got the same stalk as my Swift. The SX4 stalk (look wise) is same as the one on my Swift, but sadly doesn't have controls for rear wiper.

I placed an order for the part on Boodmo.com, the part was promptly delivered within 7 days. The installation part was quite simple, hardly took 10 minutes. The steering column trim (there are two parts) is held together by 3 screws, unscrew them & the trim comes out easily. The stalk & coupler have a push to unlock kind of lock, with the help of a screwdriver it can be removed easily. The new stalk goes in easily, everything fits perfectly.

Finally checked the functioning of the new wiper stalk, the variable intermittent function was working perfectly . As expected the rear intermittent function wasn't working & also since this stalk is different looking, it looks a bit odd (the headlight stalk is of the older design). One option is to replace the headlight stalk with that of the Gen 2 Swift stalk, to get the perfect symmetry.

Part number for the S-Cross Zeta wiper stalk:



New Stalk:







Opening the trim (there are two more screws):



The lock that hold the stalk in place & the wiring coupler lock:



Comparison of both the stalks:







New wiper stalk in place:



OE headlight stalk:



Gen 2 wiper stalk:



A slight mismatch:



Outgoing OE wiper stalk:

[chiranjitp]

Originally Posted by chiranjitp

As expected the rear intermittent function wasn't working & also since this stalk is different looking, it looks a bit odd (the headlight stalk is of the older design). One option is to replace the headlight stalk with that of the Gen 2 Swift stalk, to get the perfect symmetry.

All I could wait was 1 day, before getting the headlight stalk replaced as well . I kind of have a MGP outlet right in front of my house, so went there & gave them the part number. To my luck, they had the part in stock, so I had to buy it. The installation was same as before, even here the new design headlight stalk fits perfectly. The headlight stalk was priced at Rs. 615, that is a very reasonable price to get the symmetry back. So, the whole upgrade cost me around 1.5k, which is easily worth for the convenience that variable intermittent wipers provide.

Part number of Swift T2 headlight stalk (shared with many other MSIL cars as well):



Comparison of both the stalks:







New HL stalk:



Symmetry is back:

[Ashtoncastelino]

Love how the Symmetry is back and boy does it look more premium over the previous stalks. Great work Chiranjit. This DIY is giving me the itch to try on my Swift 06 too so it should be coming soon

Regards
Ashton Castelino

[keroo1099]

Have to blame Chiranjitp for this mod to my 2005 Swift Vxi.

Since my Vxi didn't have a rear wiper he suggested getting the SX4 wiper stalk and also sent me the part number which I tried getting locally with no luck. Finally ordered it through Boodmo and it arrived today, taking about a couple of weeks for delivery. Thanks to my dry run earlier, I had the replacement done in under 10 mins and it works like a charm. My only issue is the build quality of my original stalk is better than the new one, Sigh.

Thanks again Chiranjitp, and keep finding these lovely little upgrades.

Some pics of the mod


(Sorry, should have removed the plastic wrapper)


Connector attached and new stalk in place




Part Number

[chiranjitp]

Originally Posted by keroo1099

Have to blame Chiranjitp for this mod to my 2005 Swift Vxi.

Thanks Keroo1099 for sharing about the mod, along with the part number. It's a very simple thing, yet very effective.

Originally Posted by lemedico

Thank you very much. I am ordering one now and going to get this done on my car the day it arrives. Quick question, the fuse tap goes into any fuse holder labelled 'blank', right? How many amperes of fuse(tap) do you recommend?

In my installation I tapped into the fuse for the cigar lighter/12V socket, but I am sure you can also tap into a blank slot (should be the more appropriate way & would suggest this). Just make sure that the blank fuse slot only gets power with or after ignition (this you can check with the IRVM itself), not before that. We don't want the battery to be dead . I used a 15A fuse (from our Ecosport, no less ), since the cigar lighter by default has a 15A fuse. If you are tapping into a blank fuse slot, I think you should be fine with a 10/15A fuse.

[chiranjitp]

Two more DIYs (small ones this time):

1) Sporty pedal covers:

It was always in my mind to install sporty pedals, however there was one big issue. The new pedals needed to be drilled in, which I didn't want. Then last month Dbhpian Leoshashi came to the rescue, he sent me over these sporty pedal covers (MGA I suppose), thank you so much Shashi . They are basically pedal covers, but look & feel way better than stock ones. Only slight issue is that the covers are only for the brake & clutch pedal, so the accelerator pedal still has the OE cover. Still improves the look & does the job for me.

OE Pedal cover removed:



Comparison between the pedal covers:



New pedal covers in place:



2) Ambient lighting

Earlier this year I got MGA ambient lighting installed in our 2016 Ecosport (inspired by Shashi's thread), link to the post: https://www.team-bhp.com/forum/diy-d...ml#post5060043 (DIY: Adding footwell lamps in my Maruti XL6).

The installation was similar to this one, I first did a trail run from the roof lamp wiring, then tapped into those wires in the wire loom. However in my Swift, I couldn't find the required wires in the door sill area. Then it occurred to me that the Swift doesn't get a rear cabin lamp, hence there were no cabin lamp wires in that part. I finally tapped into the correct wires from the A pillar, using scotch locks. Finally tidied up all the wiring, fixed the lights properly.

Part number of ambient lighting kit (yellow one) + closeup of the pedal covers:



The content of the kit:


The lights turn on when I unlock the car & open any door, turn off after I start the car/put in accessories mode. They also turn on when any of the door is opened. Basically they work like how the cabin light in center position work. They also have the theater dimming effect, just like the cabin lamp.

Closeup (this is how the color looks in real life):





View at night:







P.S- The post regrading the last 2 mods have been moved to a separate thread . Sharing the link here: https://www.team-bhp.com/forum/diy-d...uti-swift.html (DIY: Installing an Auto-Dimming IRVM and Digital Clock & Temperature Display in my Maruti Swift)

[Leoshashi]

Originally Posted by chiranjitp

Closeup (this is how the color looks in real life):

The lighting looks uber cool to my eyes, and matches very well with the stock orange lighting of the Swift. Also loved when you went with Blue light on your Ecosport for similar reason.

Then last month Dbhpian Leoshashi came to the rescue, he sent me over these sporty pedal covers (MGA I suppose), thank you so much Shashi

Yes these are MGA, now discontinued. Thankfully the nearby dealer had some good amount of left over inventory of the same. Even I have it in my XL6 and M800:

[chiranjitp]

Few mods, some maintenance and a heartbreak:

1) Adding steering mounted controls:

The Swift when launched in 2005 didn't get steering mounted controls even in ZXi, heck it didn't even get a OE stereo back then. In 2008 Swift was refreshed, ZXi also got more equipment, which included steering mounted controls & a factory fitted stereo.

It was always a dream project for me, to have steering mounted controls in my Swift as well. Though never thought about it seriously, as I simply didn't have the technical know how to do it. The main inspiration for this project came from Dbhpian paragsachania's thread - https://www.team-bhp.com/forum/diy-d...en-ertiga.html (DIY: Steering-Mounted Audio & Bluetooth Controls (1st-Gen Ertiga)). Then last year I met Ashton, a fellow bhpian & a very close buddy. He's my current go to guy when it comes to DIY. He had fitted T2 Swift steering wheel in his 2006 Swift VXi, ever since then he was always pursuing me to do this mod in my car as well.

My car being a ZXi had airbag, so it would have to be a bit different from his mod (non airbag model). Also I am a sucker for OE things, so I wasn't looking to changing over to T2 steering wheel. This meant we had to look at the 2008 (& beyond) Swift ZXi steering wheel. Ashton told me that we will be needing a new steering wheel (controls come as one), new airbag, new clock-spring. All of these seemed too much for me, I wasn't till then looking to fiddle with the airbag system. Then Ashton carefully explained me the whole process, & that nothing would go wrong. He also confirmed that my current HU, a single DIN Sony HU can take steering control inputs.

Next up cost, the total cost was coming to around 10k if we were to get all things new. Steering wheel some 2.7k, Airbag (aka hornpad) 6.4k, clock-spring 1.3k. I didn't have the required fund then, so I told Ashton that we will do the project a bit later. Then a few weeks later, Ashton calls me & tells me that he has got a steering wheel for me & the project is a go .

He had found a steering wheel in the scrapyard, it was from a SX4. Upon closer inspection, it was the steering wheel from a SX4 ZXi/ZDi leather variant. Basically this variant got a slightly different steering, it was leather wrapped from factory & got thumb contours. Only slight issue was the mismatch in colour, SX4 got a brown steering, whereas Swift gets a grey steering wheel. Next up was getting the steering wheel remote cable, basically the cable that will take the steering control signal from the clockspring to the stereo. I left all of that to Ashton, I told him to order everything that is needed for the project and then ship it to me.

The SX4 ZXi leather steering wheel:



Closeup of the connectors at the back:





What's a clock-spring? Before this DIY, clock-spring seemed like some super complicated part of car equipment that one shouldn't touch or fiddle with. Let me try to explain what a clock-spring is in my way. The steering as we know is constantly rotating, but a wire (or wires) can't be rotating continuously. They would get tangled/damaged in no time if connected directly to a steering wheel. In cars equipped with airbags we need to have a constant power supply to the airbag, & horn as well (other steering mounted buttons as well if & when available). This is where clock-springs comes into play. Clock-spring is basically a 2 part thing, where one part is fixed with the steering column, the other part is fixed with the steering (i.e it rotates with the steering as one piece). They are basically circular disc devices that contain rolled up electrical connections in the form of conductor ribbon. As the steering wheel rotates to the left and right, the ribbon roll-ups and unrolls on the disc. The wiring on the column side of the clock-spring takes the signal to and from the airbag module, horn, stereo etc. The wiring on the steering side of the clock spring takes the signal to and from the steering mounted controls, horn, airbag etc. Each set of wiring is fixed & doesn't need to rotate (relative to where its fixed), the 2 sides of the clock-spring does the signal transfer between them.

My OE clockspring:



The new clockspring:



I did need a new clock-spring despite my car being equipped with one (airbag equipped model), my OE clock-spring had two 2 wires, one for the horn & one for the airbag. I had to get a new clock-spring from the post 2008 Swift which got steering mounted controls as OE. Next confusion I had was as my stock clock spring had only 2 wires, how will the new clock-spring with 6 wires/pins be compatible with my OE wiring. It turns out that the airbag cable is always separate & that coupler is same between different clock springs (from MSIL stable), so that one was sorted. The next (& only) OE wire in my car was for the horn. I had to remove that wire from the OE coupler, solder it with the wire coming out of the new coupler & heat shrink it properly.

Heat shrinked the horn wire:



I must add that we had to procure a 6 Pin 2.54mm JST connector, to plug in the clock spring (my OE was single Pin connector). Here's the link: https://robu.in/product/6-pin-jst-xh...h-cable-3-pcs/. The rest of the 5 wires went like these, 3 wires went to stereo via an AUX cable, two went for illumination (one +ve, one -ve). In short, except the horn & airbag, we didn't have to use the stock wiring for the rest of the wires.

6 pin JST connector:



6 pin JST connector slid in place:



Clock-spring diagram:





Connector fitted to the clock spring:



Now one might also get this confusion (I certainly did) is that in old cars (cars without airbags), there's no clock spring, yet the horn works. Here since only the horn needs to work, a simple cancel Cam system is in place. The horn switch completes the ground of the circuit when pressed, & the horn honks. There's a metal ring that's always in contact with the steering wheel.

Next up the theory behind how steering mounted controls work. I had initially thought that for each functionality there are individual wires, but that's not the case. There are basically 3 (2 in mine) wires in the steering wheel remote cable , out of which one is for earth. So, only 2 wires in modern MSIL cars (with separate BT switch) & 1 wire in older Marutis (like my Swift with only switch in steering) does all the talking. Every button will have a different resistance, that's how the HU knows which button we have pressed. In a stock HU, the HU is already programmed to behave to each different resistance value. In an aftermarket HU (like mine), one has to make it learn the functions. From steering side there are 6 (or 5 like in my case) wires, one is for horn, two for illumination, three (or two like in case) steering mounted controls. In new gen Marutis, the extra wire is for for the BT controls. The BT controls get a separate module placed at the bottom of the steering in new gen Marutis. In my gen of Marutis, steering control was one module only, hence only wire is used here.

Soldering and heat shrinking wires to the aux cord:





Cut the aux cord in half:



Testing of which wire is what is done using the continuity mode in the multimeter, Audio R can be either of the SWC (steering wheel control) BT or even SWC AC ( audio controls) and vice versa for the Audio L:



These are the different type of 3.5mm Jacks. For SWC (steering wheel control) we use stereo audio because we need to connect 3 wires only:



Sony remote control accessory RC-SR1 (does the same thing, but expensive):



Steering wheel remote cable fixed to the stereo:

[chiranjitp]

1) Adding steering mounted controls (continued):

The airbag dilemma: The pre 2008 Swift ZXis (my model) got a different horn-pad (i.e the airbag assembly), it extended to the edges (like the lesser variant's hornpad). The post 2008 Swift ZXi's hornpad (i.e the airbag assembly) was a bit smaller, since at the edges the silver panel was there (which also housed the steering mounted control on one side). This meant that I had to get a new airbag assembly (aka hornpad) from post 2008 Swift or a SX4 (both are same dimension wise). Then it suddenly occurred to me that both the hornpads look exactly same, & the extra bit in my car looked like an extension rather than being a part of the actual airbag. In Boodmo we could get photos of the post 2008 Airbag, but there were no photos of the Airbag assembly that I had. In the meanwhile Ashton shipped the steering wheel, clockspring & all the connectors.

Finally it was time to remove the airbag & check whether both the steering wheels were same or not (we were almost sure regarding this) & also check the airbag (this one we were in the dark). I watched a few videos on how to remove airbag on this gen of Swift, mastered sufficient courage (I was scared that something would go wrong here, very badly ) & begin to work. First up remove the negative terminal & wait for 15-20 minutes before working on the airbag. The airbag here is fitted to the steering via 2 allen key bolts (one one either side), remove them & the airbag assembly should pop out. I was easily able to remove the bolts, I was expecting some difficulty as they haven't been removed in the last 16 years. Loosened the bolts, wiggled the airbag a bit & it came out easily. Now it was the moment of truth, the steering was exactly same.

Allen key bolt that needs to be removed:



Airbag removed:



Next up was inspecting the airbag assembly & comparing with the post 2008 airbag assembly. I & Ashton went through it many times & came to the conclusion that the main airbag thing is exactly same in both, the extra bit is only an extension in my car's airbag. So, then the idea came to cut my airbag assembly to make the similar to the post 2008 airbag assembly. The markings (where to cut) were already there, after some more discussion it was decided we will cut this airbag assembly & use it. I would end up saving 6.4k in the process as well, while retaining my original airbag.

My stock airbag assembly:











2008 Swift airbag assembly:








All said & done, cutting a horn pad cleanly isn't easy. I was initially thinking of getting it done by an upholstery guy. Then a friend of mine, told me he is confident of doing it with his rather fancy Dremel tool. So, he came with his fancy tool & began working (cutting would be more apt) on the steering wheel. It took great skill to do this job cleanly, I personally couldn't have done this. Kudos to you Sidhartha. The grove helped as well, the end result was epic. No one could guess that airbag assembly was cut to look like the 2008 Airbag assembly, I will let the pictures do the talking now.

Airbag assembly cutting in progress:





Final outcome:







Fits perfectly in the replacement steering wheel:



The final part of job was to put the new steering wheel in the car. Old steering wheel came off rather easily (I was thinking it might get stuck), changed the clock-spring, put in the new steering wheel. Tightened the main nut holding the steering properly (very important), then connected all the couplers, finally fitted the airbag assembly back. Before removing the steering wheel, we had marked the pinion on the steering column & also on the cover, so that the alignment doesn't get disturbed. The back cover of the steering wheel, which also holds the airbag, that I have used from my OE steering for aesthetic purpose. Basically the end result looks like a Swift steering, leather wrapped in a different colour .

Both steering wheels side by side:



Tidying up the wiring:





Now it was time to see if everything worked & no CELs/airbag lights were there. I connected back the battery, fired up the car. Checked everything, all buttons perfectly. Job well done. Since then I have done over 1k km, everything is working flawlessly. The steering mounted controls are a big boon, especially over those long drives. Thanks Ashton for making me do this project.

The cost of the parts replaced:

1) Clock spring-
Part number: 37480M76MB0
Price: Rs. 1305.

2) JST connector-
Price- Rs. 60. (aftermarket)

3) AUX cable-
Price- Rs.100 (aftermarket)

4) Steering wheel from SX4 leather pack:
Part number: 48110-80J71-BWR
Price- Rs. 26,099. (it's a SGP, hence this expensive)
Price we paid to the scrap guy- 1.1k

5) Airbag assembly (though we didn't need to buy one)
Part number- 48150M55K11-ART
Price- Rs. 6430.

Total cost of the project for me was under 3k.

Note- Normal Swift/SX4 steering wheel is MGP, that costs a reasonable 2.7k. Part number of that steering wheel: 48110M55K10-BWR.

Final look:













Look at night: