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Originally Posted by Vid6639 A wax coat is not visible to the naked eye. As I mentioned earlier, a scratch remover is an abrasive or remover. Forget wax, a scratch remover removes paint. We are not talking of visible to the eyes. A normal paint thickness is 100-150 microns thick. When you buff the paint using a machine it removes probably a couple of micron at the worse case. Plus yours is a white car which will never show the same results.
So by applying wax first then applying the scratch remover, you removed the scratches along with the wax which you applied. There's no way even a little bit of wax will remain after a scratch remover. |
Nope, the wax layer is not visible to the naked eye. What I said was that I was checking if the Waxpol compound left any rough or abrasive layers to the touch.
One of the main reasons why I got the Waxpol tube was because it was recommended glowingly by quite a few detailing shops around here. They said that it will completely hide the scratches and keep them hidden permanently, unless someone deliberately tackles the scratch sections and tries to pry it out.
If it is causing damage to the car paint itself, I won't use it anymore.
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Originally Posted by Vid6639 Secondly, I saw a few Creta's and was really disappointed by the paint finish. Never seen so much Orange peel on a factory paint. My neighbour has a white one and I noticed orange peel on that vs my 6 year old Corolla parked next to it. |
The orange-peel effect is pretty much a given in most cars these days. Good quality OEM paint jobs are restricted to Ford, Fiat & Volkswagen only. Most, if not all, Japanese & Korean cars have half-decent paint on them which are of inferior quality. Honda was the only exception but since the introduction of the 2014 City, their paint quality has also deteriorated.
Also, Hyundai was never known to give good quality paint jobs on any of their cars. I have seen the paint shine go down several notches and lose it's sheen within 2-3 years of ownership. The Metallic shades lose their shine faster than the normal shades!
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Originally Posted by Vid6639 Second thing; the worse thing to do is wax a car under direct sun light. Again the wax is useless if applied under the sun or when the body panels are hot. You can get away by using simple products such as ultimate wax which is designed to buff off easily. But a pure wax under hot sun = impossible to remove and will mar the paint finish. |
I do all the detailing in the cool shade of my garage. I can't stand even 5 minutes in the blazing sun, forget 2 hours! One of the main reasons why I got the garage space of our home extended with plenty of free space.
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Originally Posted by Vid6639 Don't worry what you did won't cause any damage or make the paint feel rough. Car paint is very difficult to damage by hand application. Only thing is you wasted the time and effort of applying the wax as you removed it later on. lol. |
Thanks. I was a bit worried since I read your last reply but now I feel a bit better. The shade doesn't look any different, but has acquired a nice shine which wasn't there before I detailed it. Even though the Polar White shade is a non-metallic one, Lazarus now shines brightly under sunlight. From some angles, it's difficult to see him directly because of the glare.
There were only 3 significant scratches on the rear boot door (2 of them were semi-circular, 1 was straighter), and 1 minor scratch near the chrome belt on top of the rear number-plate. Only these parts received the Waxpol treatment - the rest of the car has been polished and waxed only.
But like I said above, if the scratch removing compound will damage the paint in the future, I shall cease to use it.
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Originally Posted by Vid6639 I just read another thing in your post about using PlastX. Can you confirm you use PlastX on the black side cladding? Is it this one: |
Yes it is the PlastX.
The detailing shop in my city uses it (and Ultimate Black) for cleaning all plastic parts of the cars brought there. He mentioned that Ultimate Black works the best, but since it was not available with him, he gave me this one saying that this will also do a great job.
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Originally Posted by Vid6639 Again this product is not meant for black plastic side cladding. The gel is an abrasive to buff clear plastics such as headlights. Not meant for use on matt black plastics. |
I shall get the Ultimate Black one then, when it is available. But the PlastX did a great job of cleaning the stubborn mud stains which had stuck to the black plastic cladding on the lowest part of the doors & the undersides.
Other Creta owners are struggling to get these particular sections completely clean, with a thin layer of fleshy brown mud still showing even after hours of cleaning/detailing. I used up almost half of the bottle, but the end-result was a squeaky clean underside.
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Originally Posted by Vid6639 Hope you don't mind Raven. Just helping out to correct the basics of detailing. In the long run with the steps you followed you will do more damage to the paint than good. |
Not at all, Viddy. We live and learn. And I am learning from the best!
I am currently posted in a God-forsaken place in the middle of nowhere, with nobody to guide me. So I am my own teacher and student too at the same time. No other Team-BHPians (or friends who are good at detailing) live nearby (nearest ones are 300+ kms away in all directions).
I am glad you took some time out and clarified these points. If I wasn't so fussy about scratches, I would have just got a scratch-removing pen and marked away on my Lazarus's body to glory!
Thank you so much. I am much indebted.
On a side note, here's my 3-year old who has made the rear seat her permanent snug home!