[RavenAvi]

Ran through another tankful of petrol earlier in the morning today (from Low Fuel Warning to Low Fuel Warning).

Since the last refill on 10/09/2015 had resulted in exactly 51.5 liters of fuel going in the tank (including top-up), the 577 kms covered in-city since then has resulted in a fuel efficiency of ~11.2 kmpl inside the city, with the FATC on 100% of the time.

So, since it's pretty much a given that the fuel efficiency will stay on these numbers - ~11 kmpl inside the city and ~ 15 kmpl on the highways with AC on all the time - this is the end of my FE experimentation.

Now, onward with enjoying the car without thinking much about the numbers associated with it.

ODO stands at 2,078 kms.

Originally Posted by nkghai

You have taken words out of my mouth. Now almost a month and 1950 kms on my Nanook i am loving my ride.

Great to hear, Colonel sir.

Originally Posted by nkghai

This squeaky noise from the beige handle is very very annoying. I was thinking it is my vehicle only, but now after i read your post it seems a manufacturing issue.

It is a manufacturing issue. The squeaking isn't there when the handle isn't touched, and it appears only when you squeeze it tightly.

Originally Posted by nkghai

Now i have stopped using the handle and use the cubby hole to pull the door which seems better to me. I know this is not correct, but i cant stand the stupid squeak

I am doing the same as well. Maybe some packing inside the handle frame would stop the squeaking, but that is a job reserved for the next service.

Originally Posted by souvik6

Anyone can confirm if it would be possible to have the door handles and surrounding plastic areas wrapped with some softer material preferable with some foam inside?

You can try it, but I would suggest living with it if it's not much of a big issue.

Originally Posted by souvik6

Would this anyway affect the airbag operation and what all options would be possible on the sx(o) in terms of plastic areas which can be covered?

It shouldn't. The airbags are not near this particular door handle part.

Originally Posted by karts

Hi Avi, I am not sure, if you face this issue while directly shifting to reverse from neutral once you start the car or when you move from any other gear to reverse gear, I had the same problem as your's in my Verna, In the manual, there is mention of this to wait for 3 secs before engaging reverse gear from any other gear (1st mostly). Have been following this and have never faced this problem in last 6 odd months. Just try this.

Note: Mine is a diesel, and the gear change mechanism is like slotting 1st gear by pulling a lever underneath the knob

Thank you, karts.

The gear shifter of the Creta is exactly like the one on your Verna diesel. You need to pull the button underneath the gear knob upwards and keep it pressed, to slot the gear into reverse instead of 1st.

This happens intermittently - more so when I am directly slotting into reverse from a standstill position in the mornings when I move out. Today morning, it happened again. I normally idle my Lazarus for 15-20 seconds until the high-revving RPM needle slides down from over 1300 RPM to under 900 RPM, and then slot into reverse to back out of my garage. The box refused to slot into reverse 3 times I tried it - went halfway up into the slot, the beep sounded, rear view display started showing in the Head Unit, but the lever didn't go in all the way. Had to slot into 1st for a moment, move the car about a millimeter forward, and then slotted into reverse and it went into it's slot smoothly.

In all cases, I am shifting from neutral into reverse. Very rarely am I moving from any other gear.

Could be a future job for the service guys.

Originally Posted by naveen.raju

Congrats on the milestone Avi. I dont experience any squeaks on the door handle. Only rattle or sound is from the rear. Have no idea from where but I guess it's the spare wheel that's causing it (started the noise as I had to change the wheel). Planning to put a cloth on the floor. Other than that it's just fine.

BTW, my odometer stands at 3200 kms. Will update my thread early next month when I will have more updates.

Thanks, Naveen. Try squeezing the plastic door handle with a tight fist and see if it squeaks. I am guessing this is a problem inherent in most (if not all) Cretas.

Did you get the boot lock checked? Some similar issues have been reported in our Facebook group also.

Waiting eagerly to catch up on your updates as well.

[grevvity]

Originally Posted by RavenAvi

This happens intermittently - more so when I am directly slotting into reverse from a standstill position in the mornings when I move out. Today morning, it happened again. I normally idle my Lazarus for 15-20 seconds until the high-revving RPM needle slides down from over 1300 RPM to under 900 RPM, and then slot into reverse to back out of my garage. The box refused to slot into reverse 3 times I tried it - went halfway up into the slot, the beep sounded, rear view display started showing in the Head Unit, but the lever didn't go in all the way. Had to slot into 1st for a moment, move the car about a millimeter forward, and then slotted into reverse and it went into it's slot smoothly.

In all cases, I am shifting from neutral into reverse. Very rarely am I moving from any other gear.

Next time try to release the handbrake (Also the foot brake) first before slotting into reverse from standstill and see if it makes any difference. This has worked most of the time for me. Mine is a Linea.

[naveen.raju]

Originally Posted by RavenAvi

Thanks, Naveen. Try squeezing the plastic door handle with a tight fist and see if it squeaks. I am guessing this is a problem inherent in most (if not all) Cretas.

Did you get the boot lock checked? Some similar issues have been reported in our Facebook group also.

Waiting eagerly to catch up on your updates as well.

Yes, when tightly squeezed there's a small squeak. I generally pull it so didnt notice. How do you check the boot lock? You mean to say the mechanical part of the boot lock?

[RavenAvi]

Originally Posted by grevvity

Next time try to release the handbrake (Also the foot brake) first before slotting into reverse from standstill and see if it makes any difference. This has worked most of the time for me. Mine is a Linea.

Handbrake and foot brake are not applied at any time when I move into reverse. Only pedal depressed is the clutch.

My morning routine is this - open driver's door, slide in, disengage the handbrake and move the gear lever into neutral (from 1st), press the clutch and push the start button to bring Lazarus to life, let him idle for about 15 seconds from it's high revving until it comes down to normal revving levels (near 1000 RPM), press clutch to engage reverse gear, check the mirrors and the rear camera display, then ease out from my garage space.

Today morning the reverse gear went into it's slot smoothly in the very first attempt. Yesterday it took me 4 attempts. Both times the button under the gear knob was pressed to the full.

Like I said, it's intermittent. It hasn't reached discomfort levels yet so maybe I shall live with it until the first year service is due.

Originally Posted by naveen.raju

Yes, when tightly squeezed there's a small squeak. I generally pull it so didnt notice. How do you check the boot lock? You mean to say the mechanical part of the boot lock?

Yep. After you shut the boot, tug on the boot section to see if the lock is secured. If yes, check the boot again after a small drive to see if the boot lock isn't sliding out of place.

It could be the spring inside the boot lock, or the boot lock mechanism itself.

Alternatively, check the rear passenger seat's locks on either side. It could be that the rear seat is not fully secured into it's slot, and that could be causing the noise.

[nkghai]

Originally Posted by RavenAvi

My morning routine is this - open driver's door, slide in, disengage the handbrake and move the gear lever into neutral (from 1st), press the clutch and push the start button to bring Lazarus to life, let him idle for about 15 seconds from it's high revving until it comes down to normal revving levels (near 1000 RPM), press clutch to engage reverse gear, check the mirrors and the rear camera display, then ease out from my garage space.

On a lighter side, you forgot seat belt ON after sliding in.

I have a habit taught to me by my dad in 70s, just follow it without any questions. First thing in morning move the vehicle a little forward. An inch if required and then put in the reverse gear. Maybe superstitious but i am a sentimental chap and would always do it just because of love for my dad. Do the same routine everyday and have never had any issue with the reverse gear, but this is no logical reason for reverse to function smoothly. The best reasoning is by karts and that should solve the issue.

Keep us updated

[racer_ash]

I remember reading the following 3 points in my 2011 i20 (P) manual

1) Never slot into reverse when the car is still moving forward even with clutch depressed
2) Never slot into 1st gear when he car is still moving in the reverse even with clutch depressed.
3) (The relevant bit) In case you face issues when slotting into reverse directly, try slotting into 1st and nudge your vehicle forward, then slot into Reverse for it to engage smoothly.

I know we are talking about a completely different class of vehicle that is also newer by 4 years, but this might still hold good (atleast since both are Petrols)

[Nagesh Bhatt]

Originally Posted by RavenAvi

Ran through another tankful of petrol earlier in the morning today (from Low Fuel Warning to Low Fuel Warning).

Since the last refill on 10/09/2015 had resulted in exactly 51.5 liters of fuel going in the tank (including top-up), the 577 kms covered in-city since then has resulted in a fuel efficiency of ~11.2 kmpl inside the city, with the FATC on 100% of the time.

So, since it's pretty much a given that the fuel efficiency will stay on these numbers - ~11 kmpl inside the city and ~ 15 kmpl on the highways with AC on all the time - this is the end of my FE experimentation.

Now, onward with enjoying the car without thinking much about the numbers associated with it.

ODO stands at 2,078 kms.

Hey RavenAvi, congrats on your proud possession ! It's late in the day but it's better be late than never i suppose. You have poured your heart for this car as is evident from your awesome review !

It's a fabulous looking car & truly a head turner. In fact every time i see a Creta, i have to doubly make sure it's not a Santa Fe, so big it is !

I bought a Verna, 2015 4S Petrol S(O) manual, just around the same time you bought the Creta & the Odo readings are also quite similar, close to 2k. It's a fantastic car to drive, no question about it. Before the first service i used the " Run In " method to the hilt & hardly let the rpm travel >2500. After the 1st service i have been allowing a little heavier pedal & letting it cross > 3k a few times but no more than that.
Mine is a city + Highway travel (in 35:65 ratios). RPM is around 2200 @ 80kmph & just about hovering @ 3000 @ 100 or more in the 5th gear. The average FE i obtained before the 1st service was 11 & afterwords it's dipped a little @ 10.5. No worries on that.

I have few queries on the Creta purely due to the fact that both Creta & Verna use the same 1.6 engine.

1. Is the engine differently tuned for Creta than in Verna ?
2. Creta looks heavier than Verna ( a perception, i haven't studied the actual weight figs) then how does Creta return a slightly better FE ?
3. Is the 6th gear in Creta allowing it for better gear ratio's & in turn yielding improved FE figs ?
4 Have you started using a heavier foot or still driving sedately ? ( I mean, RPM conscious ?)

Pardon me if this sounds very elementary or plain stupid. My only contention is to have a good handle on the FE management from people who understand & take very good care of their machines.

[RavenAvi]

Thank you so much, Nagesh.


Answering your queries:

Originally Posted by Nagesh Bhatt

1. Is the engine differently tuned for Creta than in Verna ?

1. There is a slight difference in tuning between both engines - the Verna 4S 1.6L is a 123 PS unit which produces 158 Nm of torque, while the Creta 1.6L is a 123 PS unit which produces 154 Nm of torque.

RPM kick-ins for the power & torque figures are different as well - they kick in earlier for the Verna (6300 RPM & 4200 RPM), and later for the Creta (6400 RPM & 4850 RPM).

The Creta's coefficient of drag (0.36) is also higher than the Verna 4S's (0.3).

Originally Posted by Nagesh Bhatt

2. Creta looks heavier than Verna ( a perception, i haven't studied the actual weight figs) then how does Creta return a slightly better FE ?

2. You are right. The Creta is around 70 kgs heavier than the Verna 4S.

It might be purely due to different driving styles.

I have people reporting in my Creta Facebook Group that they are getting only 8.5-9.0 kmpl inside the city for their Creta 1.6L VTVTs, while my Lazarus returns ~11 kmpl. Highway runs for them don't bring more than 12.5-13 kmpl, while my Lazarus gives ~14.5 kmpl.

As I have stated before, I drive with a very light foot (feather-light touch) on the accelerator, keep speeds constant as much as possible, and also avoid excessive and hard braking. I also avoid continuous gear-shifting and keep my Lazarus rolling between 3rd and 4th gears most of the time inside the city. I also follow the upshift prompter religiously and keep the car in 6th gear for all speeds over 70 kmph (except for inclines).

Originally Posted by Nagesh Bhatt

3. Is the 6th gear in Creta allowing it for better gear ratio's & in turn yielding improved FE figs ?

3. It could be. Maybe that's an explanation of why the 5th gear is tuned shorter - the prompt for changing from 4th to 5th gear comes when you cross 60 kmph, and the prompt for changing from 5th to 6th gear comes when you cross 70 kmph.

The 6th gear always aids in better FE in such cars - I have noticed this in my City i-DTEC as well. Of course, cruising on flat roads without too many twists, turns and inclines also helps.

Originally Posted by Nagesh Bhatt

4 Have you started using a heavier foot or still driving sedately ? ( I mean, RPM conscious ?)

4. I am and always have been a sedate driver. Driving 2 generations of Honda Citys made me realise that driving with a lighter foot helps keep things smooth while not putting any undue stress on the engine, and also helps in extracting the best out of your car. That experience has passed on to my driving style with my Lazarus as well.

Originally Posted by Nagesh Bhatt

Pardon me if this sounds very elementary or plain stupid. My only contention is to have a good handle on the FE management from people who understand & take very good care of their machines.

No, it is not stupid or elementary at all. These are questions which I get almost every day on my Facebook as PMs from other Creta owners.

I am glad to share my experiences as much as I can. If it helps you out, I will be happy.

[Nagesh Bhatt]

Originally Posted by RavenAvi

Thank you so much, Nagesh.
.

I am glad to share my experiences as much as I can. If it helps you out, I will be happy.

Can't thank you enough RavenAvi !

Words of wisdom !

I too have changed my driving style from the " hustling type " to a " steadier one" now & it's already paying dividends.

Will keep posting on the progress of Verna 4S ! Cheers !!

[RavenAvi]

Vijaya Dashami, or the Dusshera day as it is better known as, is the day when Dad does his customary pujas for all the cars in our garage. And since Lazarus didn't have a good, long bath and a cleaning session till now, this was the perfect opportunity to get him clean and shiny.

So, come morning of that day, I was off to the nearest washing center to get him cleaned of all the dirt and mud which had stuck to his underside over the past 2 months.

No matter how good one tries to bathe one's steed at home, there's nothing like a pack of 6-7 men (or boys) who tackle your steed from all sides and make him shiny clean at the end of a long 2-hour washing session. Plus you get the kick of watching all this without shedding a drop of sweat from the cool shade on a hot, dry day, at the cost of making your wallet 450 bucks lighter.

A short detailing session with my friendly Meguiar's pack followed, and it was topped off with a nice li'l coating of Waxpol's Scratch Remover compound.

Results in the pictorial which follows:

Ah, the joy of watching your steed become the cynosure of all attention!
Notice the dirty underside of the door plastic?


Even the rubber mats were cleaned to a spic T!
Look at all the dirt in the alloys!


Bonnet opened but the engine was not touched, as per my instructions.
Whole underbody was cleaned. I made sure they didn't damage the anti-rust coating.


Lazarus back on the ground, going through his shampoo session.


Back home, after a healthy dose of Meguiar's Ultimate Polish & Wax.


Side view. I made sure to clean each spoke of the alloys too.


This was the door plastic which had turned light fleshy brown before.
Received a nice boost of Meguiar's PlastX.


Rear view. Notice any scratches? The magic of Waxpol Scratch Remover!


After Dad's Dashami puja. Sindoor, ribbons, incense sticks and coconut breaking done this year. No nimbu-mirchi-phool stuff.

[nitninja]

The car is a looker in white and a clean car makes it even more awesome.is it legal to have govt of India on number plate? I have seen cops stopping the cars with similar plates and questioning them regarding the govt of India in my hometown.

[sourabhzen]

Originally Posted by nitninja

is it legal to have govt of India on number plate?

No, it is not.

But very few give regard to such rules even in NCR towns like Gurgaon and Noida. However, I have seen Delhi improving a bit in this regard.

[RavenAvi]

Actually, any sort of stickering or covering of a vehicle's numberplates is not allowed, unless you have a Central/State government job.

Usually officers of Central & State Government organisations and corporations are entitled to a set of red stickers on top of their numberplates, and for seniormost officers, a flag or a siren is provided. But some take it to the extreme by decking the entire numberplate background in red, and fancy, oversized numbers in front.

In my case, I am entitled to the red stickering in the top part of my car's numberplates. The reason for the Govt of India part is that I have touring duties in my daily job routine which takes me deep into Naxal territories. Being a Central Govt officer, I got it done so that the police and the Naxals don't harass me much.

Of course, living in a city categorised under "other" cities helps. Also, the "IND" authorised numberplates are to be enforced here soon, so these will be replaced anyway.

[Vid6639]

Originally Posted by RavenAvi

A short detailing session with my friendly Meguiar's pack followed, and it was topped off with a nice li'l coating of Waxpol's Scratch Remover compound

Looking good RavenAvi. Just a small confusion, did you apply the Meguiars ultimate polish and wax before the Waxpol scratch remover? If you did then you just undid the waxing. A scratch remover will remove any wax and a small micron of the paint to "remove" the scratch. You are supposed to apply a wax coat after using the scratch remover to give a layer of wax post applying any abrasive product. A scratch remover is an abrasive that will not only remove any product previously applied but buff the paint coat.

[RavenAvi]

Originally Posted by Vid6639

Looking good RavenAvi. Just a small confusion, did you apply the Meguiars ultimate polish and wax before the Waxpol scratch remover? If you did then you just undid the waxing. A scratch remover will remove any wax and a small micron of the paint to "remove" the scratch. You are supposed to apply a wax coat after using the scratch remover to give a layer of wax post applying any abrasive product. A scratch remover is an abrasive that will not only remove any product previously applied but buff the paint coat.

Yes I did.

I completed the waxing and then applied the Scratch Remover compound in small, long doses on the 3-4 scratches the rear had acquired in the past month or so. I couldn't discern any changes to the waxed layers after applying it under direct sunlight, and the scratch removing compound filled up the scratches quite nicely.

The result is in the photo I posted.

Maybe it was not immediately apparent but might show in a few days' time. I shall keep a keen eye out for any/all changes to the applied areas. I hope the areas don't become too abrasive and rough to the touch.

Thanks for the valuable tip, Viddy. Will be careful next time.