[IndigoXLGrandDi]

I got the Belt Idler replaced at my FNG on 07-04-2016 when the Odometer read 36355Kms.

The cost quoted by my Hyundai Dealer was Rs.586/- and Time- Full Day.
I got it replaced at FNG within 15 minutes.

The Idler was sourced from Local Spare Parts shop for Rs.550/- (with Bill).
The Labour Charges for replacing the Idler was Rs.100/-


I got the 40K Service done at my FNG on 08-05-2016.
The Odometer reading was 39957Kms.

I used Shell HX5 AZ 15W40 CH-4 Diesel Engine Oil that had HMIL recommended ACEA B4 specifications. And that too in Mineral Blend.



I know its approved by Maruti Suzuki. But I don't care as long it meets the specifications recommended by HMIL itself.

I bought Two 3Ltrs Can and used 5 Ltrs from it.

The Details of Bill-
1) Engine Oil 2x 3Ltrs - 1500/-
2) Oil Filter - 140/-
Total - 1640/-

Labour- 150/-

Total Service Cost- 1790/-

[IndigoXLGrandDi]

Got the 3rd Free Service done yesterday.
The Odometer read 18621 kms.
The Charges for 3rd Free Service were as follows-
3. Filter Cartridge - Rs. 2049.75
5. Service Kit- Oil Filter - Rs. 458.10

I got the 30000Kms Service done at FNG outside HASS on 9-2-2016.
The Odometer reading was 29545Kms.
The Details of Bill-
5) Oil Filter - Rs.400/- Purchased from Local Market

I got the 40K Service done at my FNG on 08-05-2016.
The Odometer reading was 39957Kms.
The Details of Bill-
2) Oil Filter - 140/-

The oil Filter bought at HASS was of Rs.458.10 and Locally purchased was Rs.400/- (locally purchased one was of Zip Make).
The One I got from PartsBigBoss is of Rs.140/- (Zip Make) Plus Shipping (Just now checked it- shipping is Rs.60/-).
I had bought 1 No. Diesel Filter, 2 Nos. Oil Filters, Xylo LH Mirror Sub Plate Convex Type in a single order. The shipping was Rs.200/- for above all items.

The Diesel Filter cost at HASS was Rs.2049.75. Don't know the rate of Local Market. The cost of Diesel Filter bought from PBB was Rs.600/- (though the MRP printed on the box was Rs.500/- and was of Jan 2013).

Yet to replace the Diesel Filter of i20 with the PBB sourced one. At the time of replacement itself, it will be clear whether the Filter will fit i20 or not.


On the side note, I got the Anti-Roll Bar Bushes (so-called Stabiliser Bar Bushes as discussed in Official Review Thread here) at FNG yesterday.
The Kad-Kad noise surfacing whenever the car went over bad patches of road has disappeared after replacing the bushes with new ones. The New Bushes were bought from Local Market.

1.Cost of Bushes- 2 X Rs.90/- = Rs.180/-
2.Labour - = Rs.150/-
Total = Rs.330/-


Also when I casually inspected the Belt Idler (one that was replaced around 6KKms ago) is showing signs of chicken pox again

Currently there is no noise from the Idler Bearing. So will have to keep watch on this.
The Odometer reading is 42506 Kms.

[IndigoXLGrandDi]

At around 44223 Kms the Rear Left Alloy got bent and the tyre would not hold air.
Enquired the cost of straightening at Alloy Wheel Repair System, Thane. I was quoted 2000-2500/- for repair and similar for To-and-Fro Courier Charges.
The New Alloy costs A Whopping 11298/- (Mind you. This is for One Alloy Wheel) at the Dealer.
Currently using with a Tube inside.


Got the "50K" service carried out at the FNG at 47615Kms.

The Engine Oil and Oil Filter were replaced with New Ones.

The Engine Oil used was same "Shell Helix HX5 Diesel AZ" which was used in previous service and recommended by HMIL.

But this time I bought two 3.5L Cans as 3L cans were not available.

1. Engine Oil- 1850/-
2. Oil Filter- 140/-
3. Labour- 150/-
Total Cost- 2140/-

[IndigoXLGrandDi]

Sorry for Too Late Update-
I replaced Air Filter myself with new one on 09-09-2016.
I bought the Air Filter online from partsbigboss.
At that time the odometer reading was 51152Kms.
The cost of Air Filter was ₹.415/-

I got the Engine Oil, Oil Filter, Coolant, and Diesel Filter replaced with new ones on 13-10-2016. The Odometer reading was 56238 Kms.

1. Engine Oil- Shell Helix HX-5 15W40 MGDO CH-4 conforming HMIL recommended ACEA B4 specifications- 5Ltrs- ₹ 1800/-
2. Oil Filter- Zip- ₹ 200/- Bought from PartsBigBoss.
3. Diesel Filter which I had bought from PartsBigBoss long ago ₹ 600/-.
4. Coolant- ₹ 170 X 2=340/-.
Material Cost- ₹ 2940.
Labour- ₹ 200/-
Total- ₹ 3140/-

[IndigoXLGrandDi]

I got Engine Oil and Oil Filter changed at FNG on 16-01-2017.
The Odometer reading was 67128 Kms.

Engine Oil used Shell Helix Diesel HX5 CH-4 15W40 ACEA B4.
Oil Filter used Zip Make.

Engine Oil- ₹1285/-
Oil Filter- ₹140/-
Labour- ₹ 150/-
Total- ₹ 1575/-

[kpzen]

Originally Posted by IndigoXLGrandDi

I got Engine Oil and Oil Filter changed at FNG on 16-01-2017.
The Odometer reading was 67128 Kms.

Engine Oil used Shell Helix Diesel HX5 CH-4 15W40 ACEA B4.
Oil Filter used Zip Make.

Engine Oil- ₹1285/-
Oil Filter- ₹140/-
Labour- ₹ 150/-
Total- ₹ 1575/-

There is no harm in getting the job done at FNG.
But, please use original Oil Filter and Fuel Filter.
You can buy the parts from HASS and get the work done at FNG.

These CRDis are quite reliable but very sensitive if you play around with air, fuel and oil.

[IndigoXLGrandDi]

Originally Posted by kpzen

You can buy the parts from HASS and get the work done at FNG.

There is only one dealer and no HASS in my city.
Also I don't think he will sell any Hyundai Part over the counter.

So I buy the parts in aftermarket spare parts shop.
The dealer/A$$ whose "Labour Charges Income" does get affected by selling the parts over counter won't sell you the parts over counter.
The Dealer for M&M (our Xylo) and Hyundai (our i20 Elite) in Solapur is one and same. He does not sell the parts over counter since It EATs into His Labour Charges Income.

[IndigoXLGrandDi]

On 24th, I noticed that the Front Right Tyre got worn out badly on the inner side.
So took the car to my FNG for diagnosing. The mechanic told me that Lower Arm Bushes have been worn out and need replacement. The owner told me to bring the car next day.
So I took the car on 25th to the FNG. Before removing the old Lower Arms, the owner of FNG enquired at the Hyundai Showroom to confirm whether the Lower Arms of old i20 and Elite are identical. The Supervisor there first hesitated but later told that both are identical.
So I drop the car and went to source the Lower Arm from Aftermarket.

I was stupid for I did not check the Newly bought Lower Arms with the Old Ones for similarity (Frequent phones regarding work).

I got the new Arms fitted and took the car for Alignment at the Tyre Centre adjacent to that FNG.
There I received another shock after the alignment was done. The person who did alignment told me that the camber of front wheels is negative. (I thought I will have to replace the Shock Absorbers too). As it was late in evening, we took the car back home.
After returning, our chauffer told me that there is some abnormal noise from front side.
When I took a small test drive (@25-30 metres), I noticed that there is Metal-to-Metal Rubbing noise while turning the Steering (at just 1/4th Turn) both sides- left and right.

I checked whether the brakes are grinding, but no. Then I called the owner of FNG and told about it. He told me to bring the car next day.
I took the car to him on 26th. After taking test drive, we return to the garage. When we removed the left wheel to diagnose, I noticed that the New Lower Arm was rubbing on the Inner Side of Brake Disc on turning left.

Same case with the Right Side Lower Arm. After that we compared the old Lower Arms with New Ones and noticed that the Ball Joint Side End of the Lower Arm on the new one was 1/2" longer than that of on older one.

We tried to source the Lower Arm identical to the OE, but did not succeed. So we bought the Front Suspension Bush Kit and Lower Ball Joint Set and got them Press Fitted on the Old Lower Arm and got the Alignment rechecked.
Obviously now the Camber came Positive (the lower side of tyre was pushed outside causing higher side to fall inside leading to negative camber due to the Long Lower Arm previously).

The Odometer Reading- 67916 Kms.

Lesson Learnt- Even if you are under load of office work, pay attention to the work done on your car.

EDIT
Forgot to add the below part-
Got Two New Tyres Fitted at Front-
Ceat FuelSmart 195/55R16.

Material-
1. The Tyres cost Rs. 5650/- Each + 1.5% Debit Card Charges (Cashless Transaction).
2. The Lower Arm Ball Joint Set of Two Cost- Rs. 1030 + 1% Debit Card Charges (Cashless Transaction)
3. The Front Bush Kit Cost- Rs. 1050 + 1% Debit Card Charges (Cashless Transaction).
4. Tube 195/55R16- Rs. 620/-
Sub-total Material- Rs. 14190/-

Labour-
1. Replacement of Lower Arm- Rs. 500/- (on first day)
2. Removing and Refitting of Lower Arm- Rs. 400 (on second day)
3. Press Fitting of New Bushes and Ball Joints on old Lower Arm- Rs. 300/-
4. Tyre Replacement Charges- 4 x 70 = Rs. 280/- (Two front tyres and Interchanged the Stepney with rear left)
5. Alignment- 400/-
Sub-total Labour- Rs. 1880/-

Total Cost-16070/-

[IndigoXLGrandDi]

This time onwards I decided to reduce the Frequency of HMIL recommended 10000 kms for Engine Oil.
I got Engine Oil and Oil Filter changed at FNG at odometer reading 74455 kms. on 22-3-2017.

I used Shell Helix HX5, same as used previously.
Oil Filter was sourced from partsbigboss.in.
1. Engine Oil- ₹1333/-
2. Oil Filter- ₹140/-

Labour-₹150/-

[dhruvritzed]

I never see you using drain liquid or changing air and ac filter, please do the same
Maintaining a car is not about the cheapest option available, it should be kept in the pink of health considering the number of kms you rack up

[IndigoXLGrandDi]

Originally Posted by dhruvritzed

I never see you using drain liquid or changing air and ac filter, please do the same
Maintaining a car is not about the cheapest option available, it should be kept in the pink of health considering the number of kms you rack up

Sorry, my bad.
I forgot to mention that the I clean (remove dust and debris) and replace the Air Filter every 3-4Kkms and 10Kkms, respectively. AC Filter is cleaned every 5Kkms. Our car has Net-Type AC filter.

[dhruvritzed]

Do use drain liquid once in a while for engine oil flush
It would only benefit in the long run
How did your clutch and brake pads survive so long?

[IndigoXLGrandDi]

Originally Posted by dhruvritzed

Do use drain liquid once in a while for engine oil flush
It would only benefit in the long run

Sorry but I think this is just Waste of Vitamin M. I don't use Synthetic Engine Oil for the same reason (Waste of Vitamin M). Our Nov. 2009 Xylo has run 279Kkms without Engine Overhaul. Touchwood. The Xylo has seen only 15W40 CH4 Diesel Oil every 10000Kms since it's first oil change at 5000Kms.

Originally Posted by dhruvritzed

How did your clutch and brake pads survive so long?

The Brake Pads of Xylo were changed first at around 150Kkms. Also the Clutch was first replaced at 240Kkms mark. The Rear Drum Brake liners were replaced at 269Kkms.

[IndigoXLGrandDi]

The Engine Oil is getting mixed with Coolant and it's getting overflowed through Coolant Auxiliary Tank in our Elite i20 Asta Diesel bought in March 2015. Odometer 3,01,xxx kms

Detailed post-
I saw a small pool of some liquid near right front wheel (under right fog lamp) I did not pay serious attention towards it. I travelled some 5 kms and had lunch in a restaurant. When I came back to our car, again I noticed small pool of liquid and I understood it's none other than oil. So I opened the bonnet and got shocked to see oil got splashed in the engine bay. I opened the Coolant Auxiliary Tank and saw the Engine Oil got mixed in Coolant (the thick milkshake type) and getting overflowed through Cap (the cap was found to be tightly fixed though). Then I checked the Engine Oil Level and found it below Minimum Mark.

I called our Regular FNG owner and told him the details. He said Oil Cooler has got damaged and needs to be replaced. I was 60 kms away from my hometown. He told me to add 1 ltr (yes 1ltr) of engine oil and return at speeds not more than 70-80Kph. So I travelled 5 kms (at same oil level at slow speeds of 30-40kph without AC in search of Petrol Pump or Automobile shop) and bought 3ltr pack of engine Oil and topped up @2 ltr and returned to hometown at speeds of 40-50kph without AC.

When I reached hometown @6:30pm, I took the car to our Regular FNG and showed him (Luckily the owner was at the garage). He checked the car and said the Oil Cooler needs replacement.

He told the Hyundai Original Oil Cooler costs @11K. (I had already enquired about the cost at two different Mobis Outlet over phone and found that cost was Rs. 11634/-.) The FNG owner told me if I don't want to spend that much, there is '2nd to Original' which costs @ Rs. 4500/-. This '2nd to Original' is identical to Original except One of the holes (I don't know which one). The spot of that hole is not as per required dimension & place and needs to filed with a file and can be installed. This has worked in many cases where he had replaced Oil Coolers in Verna's, i20s.

I am unable to decide whether to go for this low cost Oil Cooler (even this is Original except the one mismatched hole) or better spend @3 times and buy Original Oil Cooler and get it installed for peace of mind.

Please help me on this.











The 4th photo is of Radiator (not Auxiliary Tank) after removing cap today morning.

[sagarpadaki]

See if you can get one from scrap yard. Better to stick to oem for this part. Clean the part thoroughly with petrol before fitting.

The main reason for the failure of the oil cooler is not changing the coolant on time. I do not know about your coolant change schedule so I cannot say that it was the reason in your case. Change coolant every 3 years if you are using Hyundai green, 4 years if using Hyundai blue and 5 years if you are using Hyundai pink coolant. Stick to OEM or Golden cruiser brand only.


Removing coolant mixed oil from the whole system is going to be a big task. It will need multiple rounds of radiator and cooling system flush using a dedicated radiator flush