[revsperminute]

Christmas came early. Off late I’ve been having this issue where every warning possible comes on when the car is started after not being used for more than 12 hours. One by one every light goes away within 5-6kms. I’ve visited my mechanic twice but the problems, quite frustratingly I may add, refuse to reappear in front of him. The car fires up with zero drama so I’m not sure if it is a battery issue. Anyone who has faced a similar situation?

Not pictured here but an airbag light also comes on and the speedo along with the power steering cuts in and out.

[Shome]

Originally Posted by revsperminute

Not pictured here but an airbag light also comes on and the speedo along with the power steering cuts in and out.

Could be an ABS sensor gone kaput, did you run an OBD scan for errors?

[Desmosedici]

Originally Posted by revsperminute

Christmas came early. Off late I’ve been having this issue where every warning possible comes on when the car is started after not being used for more than 12 hours. One by one every light goes away within 5-6kms. I’ve visited my mechanic twice but the problems, quite frustratingly I may add, refuse to reappear in front of him. The car fires up with zero drama so I’m not sure if it is a battery issue. Anyone who has faced a similar situation?

Not pictured here but an airbag light also comes on and the speedo along with the power steering cuts in and out.

Attachment 2636435

Attachment 2636437

ABS Sensor gone kaput in all probability. Check battery as well.

[SiddharthR]

Originally Posted by revsperminute

Christmas came early. Off late I’ve been having this issue where every warning possible comes on when the car is started after not being used for more than 12 hours. One by one every light goes away within 5-6kms. I’ve visited my mechanic twice but the problems, quite frustratingly I may add, refuse to reappear in front of him. The car fires up with zero drama so I’m not sure if it is a battery issue. Anyone who has faced a similar situation?

Not pictured here but an airbag light also comes on and the speedo along with the power steering cuts in and out.

Attachment 2636435

Attachment 2636437

I've had the same issue, it's a dying battery for sure

I had given my car to the local 3M centre for cleaning and they gave me the car back with a drained battery. Multiple jump starts later (battery refused to recharge on driving) I ran into the same issue as you - Christmas lights and the "Error: brake. Workshop!" Warning at which point the car refused to start.
Called a local battery mechanic who pronounced the battery dead

Replaced the battery and all the issues were gone!

[revsperminute]

Originally Posted by Shome

Could be an ABS sensor gone kaput, did you run an OBD scan for errors?

Originally Posted by Desmosedici

ABS Sensor gone kaput in all probability. Check battery as well.

Originally Posted by SiddharthR

I've had the same issue, it's a dying battery for sure
.
.
Replaced the battery and all the issues were gone!

Thank you to everyone for the replies. ABS sensors were alright, I had them checked prior to making the post. I had not been driving the car enough over the past month (50-60 kms only) because of the disappearing nature of roads in Maharashtra during monsoons. Have been driving the car more now and thankfully the issue has not reappeared. Checked the battery SOC the morning after a long drive and it showed 100 percent.

[praveen789]

Hi! My 2020 Octavia met with a minor fender bender over the weekend. There have been many instances where the vehicle behind has bumped my car in traffic but there never was any major damage. This time however, the rear left lamp assembly has got a crack. When i checked it as soon as it happened, it looked quite bad and the bumper looked scratched but after the regular car wash the next day, it seems to be just the assembly that is damaged.

Do you think I should get it replaced or continue with it? If its just cosmetic, I will probably get it done at the annual service at the end of the year. If there are other concerns like water entering and damaging electricals, I will try to get it repaired soon. Problem is the time the ASC takes for getting replacements and fitting them. Also, not sure of letting go of the no claim bonus for claiming it under insurance.

Views are welcome

Immediately after incident:



Next day:

[the pony]

hi all, recently my front center ac vents adjuster broke. Would it be covered in warranty and if not any one has any idea of how much would they cost at dealership or any reliable source to procure from outside?

[SLK]

Originally Posted by the pony

hi all, recently my front center ac vents adjuster broke. Would it be covered in warranty and if not any one has any idea of how much would they cost at dealership or any reliable source to procure from outside?

Don't think it's covered in warranty. I took out all 5 of my vents and then repaired them myself by using innovative ingredients!, not sure how long it'll last but it's a design flaw, replacements also won't last forever.

[lightfoot_red]

@SLK - Oh, that is interesting, how'd you do it? Any references?

Also - My rear AC vent doesn't seem to work (when the front AC works)
Am I missing any setting that could've turned off the rear AC?

[SLK]

Originally Posted by lightfoot_red

@SLK - Oh, that is interesting, how'd you do it? Any references?

Also - My rear AC vent doesn't seem to work (when the front AC works)
Am I missing any setting that could've turned off the rear AC?

I didn't take many pictures, but have 2, will post that in some detail as I get time.

On the rear AC vent, the lever that controls the opening and closing of the vent at the rear breaks (the rotary dial's internal connection), so the vent is stuck in closed position. The lever inside is incorrectly designed, if someone closes it firmly it'll always break.

[lightfoot_red]

I didn't take many pictures, but have 2, will post that in some detail as I get time.

On the rear AC vent, the lever that controls the opening and closing of the vent at the rear breaks (the rotary dial's internal connection), so the vent is stuck in closed position. The lever inside is incorrectly designed, if someone closes it firmly it'll always break.

Awesome ! That'll be super helpful. Thank you.

That makes sense, this should be replaceable im guessing? I have to take my 1.8 TSI for the next service in a couple weeks, will get this checked. thank you !

[SLK]

Originally Posted by lightfoot_red

Awesome ! That'll be super helpful. Thank you.

That makes sense, this should be replaceable im guessing? I have to take my 1.8 TSI for the next service in a couple weeks, will get this checked. thank you !

Here's what I did.

I took out the vents using trim removal tools, this does not require a specific tool but it’s better to use these plastic tools to not scratch the surrounding areas.
Even after watching YouTube videos, I almost couldn’t get the vents out. I eventually figured (at least for the center vents) that removing the internal latch is less important than getting a tool below the vent and lifting the vent up (which would automatically release the latch).

Since the dash is all soft material, removing it is easier up front than the rear vent. For rear vent, you will have to release the latch properly.

Basically, you'll need:

1. Trim removal plastic tools
2. Two small flathead screwdrivers or something similar, to lift the latch from within (see these Russian videos)
3. Small flat plastic bits to keep the latch pressed (see video), could be helpful, but not always needed, I think. If you have another pair of gentle hands helping, that could be very useful. (you can use credit card pieces also)
4. Tapes of different types!
5. Old credit cards,
6. Sizers,
7. Fevikwik
8. I used Felt Pad (https://www.amazon.in/gp/product/B08...?ie=UTF8&psc=1), which wasn't the best thing to use, but I did, before realising credit card was a better bet.
9. A piercing tool (something that can make a small hole in plastic/ or other material)
10. A sanding tool or sandpaper.

For the front vents:
After looking at the videos, once I was able to pull out the vents (and disconnect the cable), I noticed the flexible plastic pieces holding vertical slats from the bottom were broken/ missing. (see below in the first picture)

I used felt-pad cut outs similar sized as the broken pieces, pierced them with a screw-like tool and put them in place after aligning the slats. And then just put a 2-3 layers of tape, including foil tape (which might be a bit stiffer).
By the time I reached the for the side vents I realized that credit card made plastic pieces would work better that felt pad and used those instead.

For the rear vents:
The rear vent had no problem with slats/ flares, but it was just completely shut (no air).
For the rear vent one part of plastic had broken, which made the shutter lever fall free. See image below, to see what had broken (this is only for reference from the front vent in un-broken condition).
I cut out pieces of an old credit card (than you AMEX!) and stuck them together with fevikwik. I then grinded them to an inverted ‘U’ shape to hold the lever to the white wheel and stuck it with fevikwik to the wheel, without binding the lever itself (because it needs to keep moving).

This rear fix was much more effort than the front ones! but it eventually came out much more solid than the front ones.

See images below that I took for reference.

A - The part that breaks for front vents (not an issue with rear)

Took this from a youtube video, quoted at the end.


B - How my repaired front vent looked from below:

1. Shows the latch that holds the vent in place.
2. The plastic pieces that break, now replaced with felt pad and taped.
3. This is the holder of the lever that controls the open-shut of air-gate, this is the piece that breaks for rear, which I replaced with a credit card fevikwik inverted ‘U’ to hold that ball joint looking thing.

C – The front of my repaired vent.

1. Shows the felt pads visible from inside – only if you really try!
2. No matter what the youtube video shows, DO NOT hold this and pull the vents out, this will break and then we have another problem to fix.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0pEQv6WRRO4

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3TMHiXnGJmc

quoting for source of snapshot "w w w.y o u t u b e.c o m/watch?v=1IS0qw3m8b0"

Considering that I would have had to change all of the vents eventally, this 2-3hours DIY helped save some 20-30k . Hope this helps.

[itwasntme]

Originally Posted by SLK

Here's what I did.

SLK, I had to have some cold milk and lie down in a darkened room after seeing your enthusiasm . I solved it by keeping a pencil in the armrest box to periodically adjust the throw + told the family not to adjust it at all.

[worldtravelbug]

The head unit of my car is not automatically turning on and takes a long time to start up. After that once the bluetooth is connected, the calls can't be heard through the cars speakers immediately and the other side does not hear my voice, its just blank even though the bluetooth is connected and the call output is to the bluetooth connection. After another minute or 2, the calls work normally. All together it takes roughly 5 minutes before I can have functional calls on the car bluetooth.

I reported the issue on my last visit to the ASC, but nothing was done. I tried doing a factory reset of all the settings, but that did not help either. I have tried with a different phone too, but the same issue persists.

Has anyone else experienced a similar problem? Any suggestions to fix it?

[Dr.Vikas]

Hi all,

I had been to Mumbai on the 21st August to attend the 'Name Reveal' event of the new Compact SUV that has finally been named as Škoda KYLAQ !

You may find my detailed Reportage at post #160
here (Skoda to launch a Compact SUV in 2025. EDIT: Named Kylaq)-

It was a one day trip covering 820kms to and fro. After the eventful day, finally reached home safely late in the night and then to our bunk with a perfect '0' km of DTE in the !!

It could just be a once in a lifetime achievement, I guess and perhaps it's a classic example of TUNING between MAN and MACHINE !