[nemesis86]

Just a quick update on the issues that I faced with my car.
The Hyundai SA quietly had skipped giving me the feedback form knowing that I won't give a generous feedback that they expect. I refrained from asking him about it and wrote a nice (pun intended) feedback on the company website. Although I didn't expect a quick reply from them, but to my surprise, I got a call from Kothari Hyundai within a couple of hours after sharing the feedback.
I had listed my concerns in my feedback and they had the background with them already.
The relationship manager persuaded me to handover the car again to them the next day and promised to give me a spare car till they sort out the issue, which they did (although a beaten up yellow i10).
They still have my car with them and will be handing it over tomorrow after 4 full days.

The things that they have done till now:
1. Opened all the interiors and rear bumper of the car, tracked the rattling noise and fixed that (apparently some welding issue).
2. Checked all the wiring and fuses and will be replacing the headlight stalks and a couple of more electricals
3. I was facing some hissing sound while accelerating, so they will be replacing the silencer as well

My actual feedback will come tomorrow after I see my car in a better condition than I left it, however, I would appreciate Hyundai's effort to sort out customer grievances.

[skanchan95]

Originally Posted by nemesis86

3. I was facing some hissing sound while accelerating, so they will be replacing the silencer as well

My old first gen 2009 i20 Petrol used to produce a throaty growl while accelerating. The sound can easily be mistaken for a bad silencer. In fact, its the sound of the engine trying to suck in more air to accelerate and its normal.
http://www.team-bhp.com/forum/long-t...ml#post3161584

[nemesis86]

Originally Posted by skanchan95

My old first gen 2009 i20 Petrol used to produce a throaty growl while accelerating. The sound can easily be mistaken for a bad silencer. In fact, its the sound of the engine trying to suck in more air to accelerate and its normal.
http://www.team-bhp.com/forum/long-t...ml#post3161584

That's what the SA told me at the first instance but I doubt it. The sound comes from the rear part of the car and not from the engine.

[jdr]

Originally Posted by sabsubs

Hi, even I am having the aforementioned problem in my car too. I own an i20 sportz crdi. My car is almost one year old. I noticed this problem few months back.

My car has had this problem from day 1. I'm planning on taking a day off from work or weekend college to try and get it reproduced at the workshop.

Originally Posted by sabsubs

I hear a knocking sound but I am not sure from where it emanates. Initially I thought that it is from the engine so I took it to the service centre but could not reproduce it. After few days the knocking sound stopped. For the past couple of months I am hearing the sound again.

My uneducated guess would be to suspect any of the hydraulic mounts around the engine or some issue with the fuel injection cycle timing.

Originally Posted by sabsubs

I get to hear the sound when the Turbo kicks in.
I am suspecting that the issue could be in Turbo because the knocking can be heard when the Rpm is around 1700 to 1800, that's range when Turbo kicks in. Could you please check whether you are hearing the sound within the Rpm range that I have motioned?

I seem to be able to hit the issue more times in 4th gear @1250 rpm (~48-50kmph).
But i get it in all gears at all rpms (including 1st gear @2000rpm)

Originally Posted by sabsubs

I searched our forum and found few members reporting similar kind of issue. One such issue got resolved after changing oil filter and resetting ECU.

I've had a oil change. didn't work, though the car did become smoother.
i'll try ECU reset if possible. once the warranty is out, i might remap the ECU with a stronger map. this car is seriously lacking in low range torque and power. especially 2nd gear. really bad ratio.

[alphahere]

Originally Posted by jdr

My uneducated guess would be to suspect any of the hydraulic mounts around the engine or some issue with the fuel injection cycle timing.

My car developed an oil leak in 3 out of 4 injectors. I realised it was a leak only recently. I could see the oil pool on top of the engine from the 10000 km service onwards but I thought it was some spillage that happened when the oil was poured in the engine. Just recently it looked very dirty to me so I decided to clean it up. After cleaning and driving for about a week the oil pool reappeared. That's when I realized it was a leak! Now this was at 25000 km. So I had been driving in this condition for about 15k kms. Coming to the point, this was shown to Trident in Bangalore and they removed and refixed the injectors. Unfortunately when I took the car and tried driving, it was making a clanking sound like a tractor and the power had come down drastically and the engine was rocking about at 2000 rpm. It could not even pull up out of the service centre ramp. But this lasted only for about 5kms after which it got rectified by itself and the sound, power and vibration returned to normal. The technician says it could have been an airlock in the fuel system. So this unnatural clanking sound that you have been facing could be an injector problem due to which the fuel spray pattern is not correct and could be similar to the symptoms of an airlock but it will not get flushed out like it did for me. It might even get rectified if you get the injectors cleaned.
The leak had been rectified well by them and it is as dry as a bone on top of the engine now. I was using a RD dual channel tuning box which I have removed now. I do not know if there was some relation of the leak with the box but have not fixed the box back after this issue. Instead got the ECU remapped to gain the performance I needed out of it.

[jdr]

Originally Posted by alphahere

The leak had been rectified well by them and it is as dry as a bone on top of the engine now. I was using a RD dual channel tuning box which I have removed now. I do not know if there was some relation of the leak with the box but have not fixed the box back after this issue. Instead got the ECU remapped to gain the performance I needed out of it.

I've had this car for under 1.5 years now and not seen any leaks anywhere in the bay so far. I had a Dieseltronic dual channel tuning box but my service engineers cribbed about it every time, so I removed it before the first service (10k kms) and plan to get a remap instead (post 20k kms).

1. Has the remap on your car helped reduce the lag, especially in 2nd gear (6spd 1.4 crdi)?
2. How much gains have you gotten?
3. Where did you get the remap done?
4. Know any good place for remap in Pune?
5.Cost?

Thanks.

[alphahere]

Originally Posted by jdr

I've had this car for under 1.5 years now and not seen any leaks anywhere in the bay so far. I had a Dieseltronic dual channel tuning box but my service engineers cribbed about it every time, so I removed it before the first service (10k kms) and plan to get a remap instead (post 20k kms).

1. Has the remap on your car helped reduce the lag, especially in 2nd gear (6spd 1.4 crdi)?
2. How much gains have you gotten?
3. Where did you get the remap done?
4. Know any good place for remap in Pune?
5.Cost?

Thanks.

The leak in my case could be seen only if the plastic cover atop the engine is removed. The four injectors sit beneath the cover in a kind of recessed channel. This channel was flooded with oil and the oil was oozing out from beneath a bolt next to the injectors. Regarding your query on my remap here are my observations:
1. Lag has considerably reduced. There is good torque available from idle rpm onwards. The stock tune used to stall if the clutch was released even slightly faster than very carefully on even a small incline. Now stopping in the middle of an incline does not freak me out as it did before. The pull starts from about 1500 rpm onwards in any gear even though the turbo kicks in from 2000 rpm. The pull is visible even in 6th. Due to this the powerband has become much more linear and predictable. Some drivers may not like the lack of a strong turbo kick. Now towards the high end this pull that starts from 1500 rpm sustains till 4000 rpm without any loss. The stock tune was basically good only from 2000 rpm to 3000 rpm post which upshift was called for. Effectively I have a usable powerband from 1500 rpm to 4000 rpm after the remap. The engine braking has reduced drastically and the car coasts very freely on lifting off the accelerator. I do not see any excess smoke in my RVM in fact no smoke at all but thats for others to see and say! Need to check this out.
2. I cannot quantify the gains in figures as I have not done a dyno. Due to the usable torque at higher end I would approximate the bhp to close to 115. Peak torque figures could be the same as stock or maybe a 10% gain at max. Since this same torque is available at higher rpm also, the bhp definitely has come up.
3. The remap was done by Code6 in Bangalore.
4. I am not aware of tuners in Pune and I do not know if Code6 has some tie up in Pune but can check out if you want. Flashing the 1.4 U2 CRDi is a simple affair if you have the right tools and software. Can be done even by someone with basic computer knowledge. It is done on the car through the OBD port without taking out the ECU. Coming up with the right tune is the time consuming and painstaking affair. And an experienced tuner will never bump up the power all at once. They try to analyse the user driving style and requirements and keep tweaking the maps to reach as close to the requirement as possible based on feedback from the user. In my case at least 20 times the map was tweaked and flashed till I got something good. It still needs tweaking as the turbo boost pressure has not been touched till now. Next step would be to increase the boost and increase fuelling a bit more to compensate and get more power out.
5. Cost can range anywhere between 25 to 30k depending on the tuner. I am not posting the exact price that I paid due to other reasons but the above range can give a fair idea.

Another point that you need to be aware of if you remap your i20 is that remap changes the fuelling pattern to the engine. This should be done within safe limits because increasing fuelling when under load will increase the EGT. Unfortunately the 1.4 CRDi does not have a PID to measure EGT. Too high EGT will definitely damage the turbo. This is another reason why my tune is taking such a long time to be finalized and we are taking it one step at a time.

[SaNdY_AR]

Folks,

Need advice,

My I20 Crdi is due for its 30K service. The last service was done at 20K. What are the mandatory activities to get done during this service and what would be the nice to do ones? Appreciate your advice.

Regards
Sandy.

[Car-tya]

Mod note: Post EDITED, removing [Font] tags, please avoid copying from external font editors. Also do a Preview before Submitting posts. Thanks.Good Day Everyone,

I own an I20 2010 model which has developed a problem with the wind shield wipers. The wipers work at the highest setting only, the medium and low settings don’t work as well on the manual setting. I got it to a Hyundai service center in Wakad, Pune and I got a quote of replacing the motor all together for 14,400 R.s.
I am not a mechanical or automotive engineer but being an engineer I know for sure, electrical motors either work or they don’t. It’s strange that the motor would work at one setting and not work at others. My assumption is the switch is faulty but don’t have any knowledge of how windshield wipers work. Any pointers or advice will be highly appreciated.

Thanks and Regards,
S V G.

[Rahul Bhalgat]

Originally Posted by GTO

The 2012 Hyundai i20 has been launched in India at a price of between 4.73 - 7.67 Lakhs (ex-Delhi).

[

I have one query:

My BIL purchased i20 Asta (O) in Dec 2013. During the use in the first year, his daughter reported a burning feeling on her skin when riding in hot sun. So he along with myself went in to enquire about films. Since I knew that the films are banned, I had prevented him from putting the films at the time of purchase. But after hearing the inconvenience to the daughter, he decided to take a calculated risk.

So last Sunday, during the sunny afternoon, we drove to an accessory shop and started enquiring about the film. To our surprise, the shop owner pointed out to us that the i20 already had dark glasses. The glasses were clear when my BIL started from his parking. After driving in the sunny afternoon for 20 minutes, the glasses turned dark. They seemed to be adequately dark.

Now, my query: Did 2013 i20 Asta (O) come with photochromatic glass? This was nowhere mentioned in the brochure or Hyundai website. What is the % VLT and % heat isolation on the glasses? The sales advisers at Kothari Hyundai had no information on this.

For now, I have suggested my BIL to buy a set of black sunshades (screens) which stick to the glass with a suction cup. Any better suggestions from fellow members?

[p'arth]

I own a i20 (Asta) White - first facelift model bought in 2012. Few days back my car's right ORVM hit an upcoming cars right ORVM head-on. The result was that the white cover of the wing mirror fell apart and broke. Fortunately the rest of the mirror assembly including the mirror is fine and the electric movements are also fine.

I went to HASS and checked for the replacement cover. HASS insists that the cover cannot be procured individually and the entire assemble needs to be procured that costs upward of 3K.

Does anyone know if the cover only can be procured locally in Hyd at any auto parts dealer or at any online sites. Some site are selling chrome wing mirror covers but these are for 1st variant of i20 that did not had blinkers on the mirrors.

Below is the snap of my left ORVM mirror. This white cover in the right mirror is lost.

[Sinner666]

Has anyone who own a Magna model (Manual Ac controls) faced any issues with the temperature control panel?

My 2.5yr old car's temperature control know has gone kaput. It just rotates freely, and I am not able to vary the temperature as per my choice. It just gets stuck at either the Hot end, or the Cold end. My guess was that either the cable which this knob rotates has got loose, or snapped.

Took it to HASS, and they too diagnosed the problem as I had thought it to be. I asked them to change it.

But the shocker is that the cable is not sold separately, and I would have to buy the entire temperature control console/unit which costs INR 6k. A small cable is not sold as a child part!

My car is under Extended warranty too, and apparently 'breakage' is not covered under warranty.

Has anyone had such an experience, and does anyone know how/where to source this cable?

For now, I have asked the HASS mechanic to hardwire it to the cold position, but I know I wont be able to run this setup for long, given the impending winters and the current monsoon fogging up of the windshield.

[RSR]

Originally Posted by Sinner666

Has anyone had such an experience, and does anyone know how/where to source this cable?

Parts sharing helps a great deal in such cases. The cable may be the same as that used on the new i20 / i20 Active, or even on other Hyundai models.

There are a few options, and you can try them one by one.

If you know the cable's part number, you may be able to buy it online from this site:

http://www.99rpm.com/hyundai/catalog...+switch#page=1

Another option is Mobis authorised parts retailers who sell genuine Hyundai parts over the counter:

http://www.team-bhp.com/forum/indian...ugh-mobis.html

A third option is to order the cable from a foreign website which sells Hyundai parts.

The fourth option is to ask an independent garage, especially an independent car A/C specialist, if they can source (& fix) the part for you. These guys usually have access to sources for such parts.

The fifth one is to look around in the market that sells used car parts, but only if you're comfortable with such parts. Since it's only a cable, it may not matter much.

[Sinner666]

Originally Posted by RSR

Parts sharing helps a great deal in such cases. The cable may be the same as that used on the new i20 / i20 Active, or even on other Hyundai models.

There are a few options, and you can try them one by one.

If you know the cable's part number, you may be able to buy it online from this site:

http://www.99rpm.com/hyundai/catalog...+switch#page=1

Another option is Mobis authorised parts retailers who sell genuine Hyundai parts over the counter:

http://www.team-bhp.com/forum/indian...ugh-mobis.html

A third option is to order the cable from a foreign website which sells Hyundai parts.

The fourth option is to ask an independent garage, especially an independent car A/C specialist, if they can source (& fix) the part for you. These guys usually have access to sources for such parts.

The fifth one is to look around in the market that sells used car parts, but only if you're comfortable with such parts. Since it's only a cable, it may not matter much.

I am actually planning to pay a visit to a different HASS tomorrow to get a second opinion. I'll try to get the part number as you suggested, and try my luck finding it online/outside. However, my worry is if the wire is not sold as a child part, I would not be able to source the part number for just the wire - it would be for the entire unit.

I had checked on the fifth option you mentioned with the HASS mechanic itself, but he mentioned that the control unit on my car is very rare (I kind of agree to this, as I have rarely seen many igen i20 Magna (not the Option pack) on roads. The price difference between Magna and Magna(O) was approx 30k at that time - which gave ACC, Power mirrors, Rear defogger, ICE etc. extra. Hence there were very few takers for this particular variant.
Buyers remorse struck a little late.

I am also planning to put in a mail to Hyundai about this - as to why should I be forced to pay for an entire unit, just because they don't sell the wire separately for this model. As per the HASS staff, the Santro, Getz, i10 and Verna all have the wire listed as a child part.

[Sinner666]

Just putting in an update.

Spent the last Sunday trying to find a fix for this.

Went to multiple HASS (just a try), but the response was that the part is not sold as a child part. However, I am now clearer on the actual issue. It is not the cable which is broken but the place where the cable is affixed to - Not at the temperature control dial end, but the other end. i.e. the part that is put into motion as the cable moves (when the temperature control knob is rotated). There is some sort of a lock that secures the cable to this movable part which has broken. And this is made of plastic!

Took it to the FNG too but the response was pretty much similar. Everyone has advised me to continue with this setup, and manually (take it to the FNG/HASS) before winters to move the temperature control the other way.

Also, have got my details written down at Dee Emm Hyundai (the new Hyundai dealer in Gurgaon - have had very good experience with them so far. Would recommend to anyone in Gurgaon). They have said they would give me a call in case they are able to cannibalize the part from any other car which is getting the AC panels replaced for some other reason.

I am planning to continue this way at least till the winters, and maybe end up changing the part when the winters become too severe to bear.