[911varun]

Pls check online websites like eurocarparts or others for part numbers. I doubt that yours would be solid at front, never heard about that. pls post some pics if possible

[laxmanrk]

Originally Posted by 911varun

Pls check online websites like eurocarparts or others for part numbers. I doubt that yours would be solid at front, never heard about that. pls post some pics if possible

There, that's where my dilemma started from - the internet.

Most online websites quote part number 124-421-16-12 and that is a vented disc.

I bought my car about 4 months ago. The issue here is that I dont know whether the previous owner converted this from a vented to non-vented fearing lower strength.

But my car currently has solid discs both at front and back.

Will get some pictures when I go back to the garage to get the work done.

[vikramvicky1984]

Originally Posted by DeepakMenon

It locks up sometimes after the key is comopelety lose; happened to a friend of mine; i think you would need a mech to help you remove the tubler and the related sterring lock; the only way is a new tumbler; approx 4K from MB

I already sourced the tumbler for 2400 but the problem is getting the old one out.
Got the whole steering assembly and lock out of the car. The black casing around the tumbler is also not getting out. Have not yet been able to figure out what to do.

[DeepakMenon]

Originally Posted by vikramvicky1984

I already sourced the tumbler for 2400 but the problem is getting the old one out.
Got the whole steering assembly and lock out of the car. The black casing around the tumbler is also not getting out. Have not yet been able to figure out what to do.

Ideally you use a U clip to remove the tubler; however since yours was locked up and you already have the steering column etc out; i would assume all you need to do it drill away the steering lock to free the tubler from the steering

Honestly your mech should be able to do this for you; i would not try a DIY

Note: 2400 was for a brand new Tumbler with keys matching your doors??

[vikramvicky1984]

Originally Posted by DeepakMenon

Ideally you use a U clip to remove the tubler; however since yours was locked up and you already have the steering column etc out; i would assume all you need to do it drill away the steering lock to free the tubler from the steering

Honestly your mech should be able to do this for you; i would not try a DIY

Note: 2400 was for a brand new Tumbler with keys matching your doors??

Thanks a lot.

The new tumbler sadly comes with a new set of keys. so I'll have separate set for doors and ignition.
is there a way to have one key for the whole car now?

[DeepakMenon]

Originally Posted by vikramvicky1984

Thanks a lot.

The new tumbler sadly comes with a new set of keys. so I'll have separate set for doors and ignition.
is there a way to have one key for the whole car now?

Ideally you buy a lock set from MB; they give you the same key as your doors provided yours was the original or you can get the entire lock set / tumblers for all the door [I believe there is some kind of proof of ownership etc that they may need and will cost you around 4K odd]

check with MB

[sportz_kruzer]

HI Guys, I have a Mercedes Benz E220 W124 1996 done 14L kms. I am facing this problem where the power steering goes hard when the engine gets warm - say within 20 mins of driving, however its perfectly silky on a cold engine.

Steps tried - replacing fluid and filter and bleed steering left right many times.

I suspect the pump but fail to understand how come it works fine when cold? Apart from being hard there are no other groans and any such antics. Yes - I need to blip the throttle to atleast 1100 rpm for power assist to come back - thats only when engine is hot.

Any ideas whats goin on here?

[911varun]

Originally Posted by sportz_kruzer

HI Guys, I have a Mercedes Benz E220 W124 1996 done 14L kms. I am facing this problem where the power steering goes hard when the engine gets warm - say within 20 mins of driving, however its perfectly silky on a cold engine.

Steps tried - replacing fluid and filter and bleed steering left right many times.

I suspect the pump but fail to understand how come it works fine when cold? Apart from being hard there are no other groans and any such antics. Yes - I need to blip the throttle to atleast 1100 rpm for power assist to come back - thats only when engine is hot.

Any ideas whats goin on here?

You need to get under the car and see if there is a leak down at the power steering unit, the leaks here are minor and do not get down to droplets on the floor. If yes, then you need to reseal the unit using power steering kit which is widely available in the market.
Do let us know if thats the problem.....

[sportz_kruzer]

Originally Posted by 911varun

You need to get under the car and see if there is a leak down at the power steering unit, the leaks here are minor and do not get down to droplets on the floor. If yes, then you need to reseal the unit using power steering kit which is widely available in the market.
Do let us know if thats the problem.....

Thanks for the direction 911Varun, when you say power steering unit do you mean the pump or the steering rack unit? Also, by re-sealing the unit do you mean changing the seals? whats a power steering kit?
thanks a ton!

[911varun]

Originally Posted by sportz_kruzer

Thanks for the direction 911Varun, when you say power steering unit do you mean the pump or the steering rack unit? Also, by re-sealing the unit do you mean changing the seals? whats a power steering kit?
thanks a ton!

Yes the rack unit, there is a sealing kit for that, and it should solve your problem

[laxmanrk]

Okay, so I have a 1994 W124 300D and replaced the following:

- Tie rod ends both sides
- connecting rod between the 2 tie rods
- the shock absorber parallel to the connecting rod
- front discs
- both sides strut boot and buffer

Post these works went for wheel alignment

The front left wheel has excess camber and now the vehicle is also pulling to the left.

The alignment guy says only the mechanic can sort this out.

What adjustments are available to get the camber back into the acceptable limits.

HELP

[911varun]

Originally Posted by laxmanrk

Okay, so I have a 1994 W124 300D and replaced the following:

- Tie rod ends both sides
- connecting rod between the 2 tie rods
- the shock absorber parallel to the connecting rod
- front discs
- both sides strut boot and buffer

Post these works went for wheel alignment

The front left wheel has excess camber and now the vehicle is also pulling to the left.

The alignment guy says only the mechanic can sort this out.

What adjustments are available to get the camber back into the acceptable limits.

HELP

find a good alignment shop with Hunter or any other good brand alignment setup. they have the data stored in the setup. Meanwhile, let me dig that sheet, I am sure I had it somewhere.....

[DeepakMenon]

Guys got a new Issues; My Oil Just came up; so i though the level of oil is less.. however when checked early in the morning the level was perfect to what i had filled 7 months back..

But the oil light refuses to go; except when i am reversing into my parking which has a incline..?

Now i guess the sensor is bad; where is it and how do i test it

PS: Oil pressure is a 3; so that looks fine

[laxmanrk]

Originally Posted by 911varun

find a good alignment shop with Hunter or any other good brand alignment setup. they have the data stored in the setup. Meanwhile, let me dig that sheet, I am sure I had it somewhere.....

Thanks for the quick reply Varun.

The place where I took my car for alignment is a renowned wheel alignment centre in Hyd.

The guy also has hofmann equipment which showed up my vehicle basing on the chassis number.

The tolerances sheet you have given matches the tolerances of the alignment report.

The camber of the front left wheel is out by 39' and hence the inner side of the tyre will have more wear.

I require adjustment techniques on the actual suspension itself which will bring the camber back into the acceptable tolerance limits.

[911varun]

Originally Posted by DeepakMenon

Guys got a new Issues; My Oil Just came up; so i though the level of oil is less.. however when checked early in the morning the level was perfect to what i had filled 7 months back..

But the oil light refuses to go; except when i am reversing into my parking which has a incline..?

Now i guess the sensor is bad; where is it and how do i test it

PS: Oil pressure is a 3; so that looks fine

The oil pressure sensor is gone, its beneath the compressor and at the oil sump, with a plug and single wire connected to it.