[pta320]

Originally Posted by eccentric

Refer the second attachment. The needful is tabulated in the second row of the table.

Is there any page that mentions the type of coolant it takes and the capacity?

[eccentric]

People, whether it is possible to procure the below OEM accessories for Civic?

1. Illuminated side step garnish
2. Seat belt shoulder pads
3. Modulo body kit - Type 1
4. Door Visors

Any leads on the above would be much appreciated. Thanks!

Originally Posted by pta320

Is there any page that mentions the type of coolant it takes and the capacity?

Please follow the below link,
http://civic.hondafitjazz.com/A00/HT...301KBAT00.html

Should have shared this earlier. Was completely erased from my memory.

You could fetch anything and everything from this site.

[saket77]

Originally Posted by pta320

Is there any page that mentions the type of coolant it takes and the capacity?

Honda type 2 (blue): premixed 50:50 - 4 litres capacity. Rs. 314/- per liter
Part no. 08C56G0210.

Trust that will help.

Regards,
Saket.

[dsnaveen21]

Guys,

Please let me know the below item will fit for 2011 Honda civic S variant, planning for Low Beam :- 12v - 51W (HB4)

https://www.amazon.in/HB3-HB4-9005-9.../dp/B07QVK77FX

1 doubt, this is of 6000K, wanted to know if any issue it has to be 4300K?

Thanks,

[eccentric]

Originally Posted by dsnaveen21

Guys,

Please let me know the below item will fit for 2011 Honda civic S variant, planning for Low Beam :- 12v - 51W (HB4)

https://www.amazon.in/HB3-HB4-9005-9.../dp/B07QVK77FX

1 doubt, this is of 6000K, wanted to know if any issue it has to be 4300K?

Thanks,

Yeah, it should fit since Civic has HB4 connector for the Low beam.
Color temperature of 6000K will have a whiter light while 4300K will be less yellowish than the stock light.
6000K results in poor visibility during rainy and foggy weather conditions and on two-way roads when you are constantly blinded by the halogen beams of the oncoming vehicles.
Still, I must admit that 6000K ups the civic quotient of your car. They know you've arrived!

However, LEDs inside a reflector setup will not result in the desired focus as we expect. Yet, I installed the below in my Civic last week.

https://www.amazon.in/gp/product/B09...0?ie=UTF8&th=1

Disclaimer: To register warranty, you have to write a review on Amazon and send a screenshot to a particular number mentioned in the box.

Will share impressions along with pictures in due course.

[raunaqv471]

[quote=nik0502;5145252]Hi Guys,

7. Changed engine mount
a. Hydraulic one (NOC make)
b. The torque mount (NOC make)
Still not satisfied with the car. Ever since the original mount gave up the car has never been the same. There are vibrations which were never there before. I was planning to get the OEM one from Honda however visited Ghai spares and he mentioned that NOC is japanese make and is one of the best in business. Tried it and burnt my hands and money. Has anyone tried aftermarket engine mounts?


Hi, I have been living with the NOK mount curse since a year now. Could you please specifiy whether yours is a manual or automatic transmission? I have a 2013 Civic VAT and had gone for a NOK hydraulic mount in the bargain of saving few bucks. My mechanic charged me 5 k for it while the OEM one costs 12k at honda. I face erratic vibrations at cold start and while putting the car into drive from park when the engine is cold. Sometimes it feels like a misfire. I am living with it for now but if it gets any worse , I'm might just have to bite the bullet and go for the original.mount. What I have observed is that the NOK mount works better in manual civics since I have driven a relative's MT civic with the same mount. Issues are more pronounced in automatics for some strange reason. I only had to repalce the hydraulic mount since my torque strut was fine.

[nik0502]

Hi raunaq,

Mine is vAT too. The original mount lasted some 90K kms and 9 years before giving up. I was not in a situation to attend to the car and had to rely on my mechanic who installed a non OEM mount. The car was butter smooth with the original mount but with this one vibrations were there from the moment engine was fired. I lived with it for about over an year. I had made up my mind to replace the mount with an OEM one but visited Ghai spares who gave me lot of assurance about the quality of NOC. However the vibration are lesser as compared to before but it’s still there. The hydraulic mount was for 1800, torque strut was for 1400 and the mechanic charged me 600 for the fitting. Overall cost 3800 I will still have to change the mount again. All I am afraid of is what if I get an OEM mount and the car doesn’t feel like what I am expecting. For me the vibrations are constant. They increase with the throttle input. The car has least vibrations at around 1500 rpm post which they start to increase. The car feels more like early generations of maruti than a well engineered Honda. For example I had a Esteem long back it was silky smooth but with vibrations. With original mount there was no difference in my car’s behaviour when it was idle and when I was accelerating.

[raunaqv471]

Originally Posted by nik0502

Hi raunaq,

Mine is vAT too. The original mount lasted some 90K kms and 9 years before giving up. I was not in a situation to attend to the car and had to rely on my mechanic who installed a non OEM mount. The car was butter smooth with the original mount but with this one vibrations were there from the moment engine was fired. I lived with it for about over an year. I had made up my mind to replace the mount with an OEM one but visited Ghai spares who gave me lot of assurance about the quality of NOC. However the vibration are lesser as compared to before but it’s still there. The hydraulic mount was for 1800, torque strut was for 1400 and the mechanic charged me 600 for the fitting. Overall cost 3800 I will still have to change the mount again. All I am afraid of is what if I get an OEM mount and the car doesn’t feel like what I am expecting. For me the vibrations are constant. They increase with the throttle input. The car has least vibrations at around 1500 rpm post which they start to increase. The car feels more like early generations of maruti than a well engineered Honda. For example I had a Esteem long back it was silky smooth but with vibrations. With original mount there was no difference in my car’s behaviour when it was idle and when I was accelerating.

I must say those are some mouth watering prices. But this is a life lesson for us, when It comes to critical parts, there's no scope of taking shortcuts. My Civic has been driven only 59k. I do not face vibrations once the engine warms up(for the most part) or even at higher rpms. What I have observed is a bit of grumbling or harshness between 2.5 to 3k rpms even under normal acceleration but at times when the engine is cold , the car does shake quite a bit even while slotting it into gear and never had I faced this earlier. As you rightly said , I vaguely fear this may happen even after replacing it again. What I have decided on is that I will either procure the original part from boodmo or give it to honda only when I do choose to take the plunge. The way you describe it , I feel its better you address this sooner rather than later since clearly its making your engine move around excessively. You can check this out on YouTube as well for the 8th gen civic , OEM mounts vs aftermarket and the difference in NVH. Do keep me posted.

https://youtu.be/BZOwalxM18o

Regards,

[eccentric]

Originally Posted by nik0502

All I am afraid of is what if I get an OEM mount and the car doesn’t feel like what I am expecting.

Originally Posted by raunaqv471

As you rightly said , I vaguely fear this may happen even after replacing it again. What I have decided on is that I will either procure the original part from boodmo or give it to honda only when I do choose to take the plunge.

I must say your presumptions of the vibes still prevailing, even after affixing the OEM mount are indeed partially true. During my last service at the ASC, on observing the less gap of the mount, I voluntarily asked them to replace the part. Now, though the gap is more pronounced, I feel a very faint buzz on the seats when the car is idling which was never there before! As soon as you dab the throttle pedal, they go away and only to return back during idle.

One of the chinks in the armor of Honda India is their pathetic ASC. None are technically sound to understand customers like us. I don't know what SOP they followed while they replaced the engine mount. Lot of anguish to vent out. But, that remains for another day!

Below is to give you a picture of the costs incurred on mount replacement in April 2021. Remind you that my city belongs to a different Tier category and the labor charges may vary.


Seriously contemplate thrice if you are opting for OEM mount since the price is huge and is inflating every year. Would insist you to consider engine mounts from Technix. Heard they are doing good. Check out the below,
https://boodmo.com/catalog/part-tech...1001-53700694/

Also, if you still have your OEM mount with you and do they show no signs of cracks in the rubber or oil leakages, would recommend you to infer the below,
https://www.8thcivic.com/threads/200...ration.299126/

Seems to be quite an economical fix.

Trivia
This is planned obsolescence by the OEM. By design, they made this part to fail prematurely. Only if we drive the car regularly and sensibly on butter smooth tarmac, the life of this part will sustain. Else the rubber is on constant compression by the self weight of the engine and perishes even faster.

[nik0502]

Originally Posted by eccentric

I must say your presumptions of the vibes still prevailing, even after affixing the OEM mount are indeed partially true. During my last service at the ASC, on observing the less gap of the mount, I voluntarily asked them to replace the part. Now, though the gap is more pronounced, I feel a very faint buzz on the seats when the car is idling which was never there before! As soon as you dab the throttle pedal, they go away and only to return back during idle.

This is my biggest worry. I wouldn’t mind spending money if Honda people assure me that the car will behave the way it used to.

Seriously contemplate thrice if you are opting for OEM mount since the price is huge and is inflating every year. Would insist you to consider engine mounts from Technix. Heard they are doing good. Check out the below,
https://boodmo.com/catalog/part-tech...1001-53700694/

Since I have tried two different aftermarket ones I would rather skip the experiment. I would either get the OEM mount or live with how it is for sometime

Also, if you still have your OEM mount with you and do they show no signs of cracks in the rubber or oil leakages, would recommend you to infer the below,
https://www.8thcivic.com/threads/200...ration.299126/

My original mount cracked open after serving well for 9 years.

Seems to be quite an economical fix.

Trivia
This is planned obsolescence by the OEM. By design, they made this part to fail prematurely. Only if we drive the car regularly and sensibly on butter smooth tarmac, the life of this part will sustain. Else the rubber is on constant compression by the self weight of the engine and perishes even faster.

This is my biggest disappointment. The mount used to cost some 7K couple of years ago which was already expensive and now the prices are increasing every year. The last time I checked boodmo it was little over 10K and I checked it today after reading your post and it’s 12K plus now.

Originally Posted by raunaqv471

I must say those are some mouth watering prices. But this is a life lesson for us, when It comes to critical parts, there's no scope of taking shortcuts. The way you describe it , I feel its better you address this sooner rather than later since clearly its making your engine move around excessively. You can check this out on YouTube as well for the 8th gen civic , OEM mounts vs aftermarket and the difference in NVH. Do keep me posted.

https://Youtu.be/BZOwalxM18o


Regards,

The engine is as stable as it should be however I feel the quality of rubber is not upto mark hence it’s not absorbing the vibrations completely and passing these on in the car. I wouldn’t change the mount in near future. I have already burnt my hands with aftermarket mounts twice. My car will be due for service in Feb. I will get it replaced with OEM mount than most probably. I have spent almost what the car’s market value is in last 1.5 months. And I have another 60-70K worth repairs pending which include complete suspension overhaul and AC compressor and condenser replacement. The suspension is shot and car is hitting every bump on the road and the AC compressor is making weird noises however the cooling is great. I am not sure if I should even replace the compressor. So engine mount will be a low priority for now.

[raunaqv471]

Originally Posted by eccentric

I
Seems to be quite an economical fix.

Trivia
This is planned obsolescence by the OEM. By design, they made this part to fail prematurely. Only if we drive the car regularly and sensibly on butter smooth tarmac, the life of this part will sustain. Else the rubber is on constant compression by the self weight of the engine and perishes even faster.

This is quite a nifty solution. Wish I had known about this back then. My original mount hadn't collapsed fully but was on its way out and due to abundance of precaution, I replaced it on account of mild vibrations when the AC compressor kicked it. And yes every Civic i know past 70K has faced this issue, some even multiple times. Planned Obsolescence indeed. I will think long and hard before replacing it at Honda.

[raunaqv471]

Originally Posted by nik0502

This is my biggest disappointment. The mount used to cost some 7K couple of years ago which was already expensive and now the prices are increasing every year. The last time I checked boodmo it was little over 10K and I checked it today after reading your post and it’s 12K plus now.



The engine is as stable as it should be however I feel the quality of rubber is not upto mark hence it’s not absorbing the vibrations completely and passing these on in the car. I wouldn’t change the mount in near future. I have already burnt my hands with aftermarket mounts twice. My car will be due for service in Feb. I will get it replaced with OEM mount than most probably. I have spent almost what the car’s market value is in last 1.5 months. And I have another 60-70K worth repairs pending which include complete suspension overhaul and AC compressor and condenser replacement. The suspension is shot and car is hitting every bump on the road and the AC compressor is making weird noises however the cooling is great. I am not sure if I should even replace the compressor. So engine mount will be a low priority for now.

Yes, I did see that you have put quite a lot into the car. Might i say that if the AC is cooling perfectly, I doubt your condenser has a leak. Maybe the condenser fan motor or relay must have trouble. The way to confirm that is by running the AC during the afternoon heat and checking whether the vehicle overheats or not. If it does then you should get your condenser fan motor or relay checked to see whether it engages. As for the compressor, again I doubt a replacement is needed. usually the compressor starts making noise when the compressor clutch bearing develops issues and any decent FNG can fix that for you real cheap by replacing the bearing rather than the entire compressor( which Honda ASC would recommend). As for the car bottoming out, get your struts checked. Most likely your struts are shot and leaking and a strut and strut mounts replacement should fix this. Hope this helps.

Regards,...

[Highflyer]

Hi Friends,

I am facing an issue with my 2007, 1.8 SAT Civic.

Last few days I hear a whining noise after start. It gets louder while turning the steering. Could it be due to PS pump? I hear horror stories of high cost of repairing or replacing the PS pump. Any non HASS place near Secunderabad to get it diagnosed? Thanks.

[eccentric]

Originally Posted by Highflyer

Hi Friends,

I am facing an issue with my 2007, 1.8 SAT Civic.

Last few days I hear a whining noise after start. It gets louder while turning the steering. Could it be due to PS pump? I hear horror stories of high cost of repairing or replacing the PS pump. Any non HASS place near Secunderabad to get it diagnosed? Thanks.

Inspect the power steering fluid reservoir.

1. The fluid level should be between the Max and Min markings on the reservoir
2. Check for any spillages near the reservoir area and on the hoses. The underbody may be wet and you may find some fluid stains right on the ground where your car is parked

Didn't find any stains/ leaks?

Start your car and let it idle. Open the cap of the power steering fluid reservoir and check whether frothing is happening. If froth occurs, then the pump is sucking air into the system and has a symptom of blown O-Ring.

a. Replace the O-Rings on both the inlet and outlet side of the pump
b. Flush the power steering fluid completely and replenish with OEM fluid alone
c. Replace the fluid reservoir as well with a new one

Also,
i. Be gentle with the steering. Minimise the usage of lock to lock actions
ii. Park the car with the wheels pointing straight
iii. Downsize the tires and wheels if you have upsized any

[Highflyer]

Originally Posted by eccentric

Inspect the power steering fluid reservoir.

1. The fluid level should be between the Max and Min markings on the reservoir
2. Check for any spillages near the reservoir area and on the hoses. The underbody may be wet and you may find some fluid stains right on the ground where your car is parked

Didn't find any stains/ leaks?

Start your car and let it idle. Open the cap of the power steering fluid reservoir and check whether frothing is happening. If froth occurs, then the pump is sucking air into the system and has a symptom of blown O-Ring.

a. Replace the O-Rings on both the inlet and outlet side of the pump
b. Flush the power steering fluid completely and replenish with OEM fluid alone
c. Replace the fluid reservoir as well with a new one

Also,
i. Be gentle with the steering. Minimise the usage of lock to lock actions
ii. Park the car with the wheels pointing straight
iii. Downsize the tires and wheels if you have upsized any

Very informative and detailed. Will get back after the rectification. Thanks a ton.