[sushrutha]

Originally Posted by laluks

Does anybody know the part number of the belt that runs the compressor, alternator and PS pump? What is its cost?

Just check here
http://www.hondapartsnow.com/parts-l...pump-1-8l.html

Part No. Part Description
56992-RNA-A03 Belt, Power Steering Pump (Bando) (AIR CONDITIONER)
RetailPrice YourPrice
$40.83 $29.40

[coolkurt]

Originally Posted by laluks

Does anybody know the part number of the belt that runs the compressor, alternator and PS pump? What is its cost?

I think it's 04301RNA307.
You can check here:
http://www.hondasuperstoreparts.com/...6/Honda/Civic/

[manim]

Originally Posted by SolidSnake

Can you please tell me what was the average maintenance costs and major parts if you have replaced any ?

Others have answered your question better than I could have!

Anyway all my services after 40K with their costs are on this thread (except for the most recent ones since I did not use my car much for the past two years).

So far I consider everything I have done only 'routine' which includes:
1) Engine mount once
2) Front brake pads and rotors twice
3) Rear brake pads once
4) Aircon gas recharged once (by a local mechanic)
5) Battery replaced twice
6) Power-steering fluid went low once with whistling noise
7) ORVM mirror replaced once (broke after a car hit)
etc.,

Odo is at 1,38,000 kms and will be eight years old this May 2015.

My car is still factory-assembled-100%, that is, no modifications whatsoever, one reason I believe that I did not have any major problems. I refused to even stick sun-paper (illegal now anyway) since that would mean the door side pads had to be opened.

I have a 1,500 kms trip coming up this week (after a long period of remaining idle), and will post any problems if I have, on this thread.

[VineetG]

Civic A/C self diagnostic and full service

Before the onset of summer, i decided to have the A/C on my 6 yr old, 90K kms run civic. There were no issues, but my main concern was the evaporator (cooling coil) is prone to getting clogged by dirt, lint, hair etc. and can affect air flow and cooling.

Also, decided to get it done at Honda ASS itself, for peace of mind.

A/C self diagnostic.

Honda Civic has an A/C diagnostic mode. To activate it, set your A/C to Lo, blower to max speed. Switch off the car, press the "mode" and "auto" button simultaneously. Start the car now.
On the right side end of the display, you will see the digit "1" flashing, along with some number to the left of it.
Press "A/C" button 4 times and the digit "1" will become "5".
This mode shows the temperature of the evaporator coil, which is a 2 digit number( to the left of the digit "5"). The numbers Keep the A/C running and even drive off if you want to, to improve cooling.
If the cooling coil is reaching 5 or 6 degrees, your cooling is good. Also, if you feel that the airflow is fine, then a service may not be needed.

Anyway, the temperature in my car was reaching 5 degrees and the mechanic told me that A/C service was probably not required. But I had this "Keeda" in my mind so decided to still go ahead.

The full A/C service included refrigerant recycling, refilling, compressor oil, evaporator coil removal, cleaning and refitting.
Cost : Approx 3700+ tax, incl cost of gas.

The glove box has to be taken out, along with the black cover below it. The blower assembly is removed to access the evaporator.

Note that full dashboard removal is not required.

The evaporator was very much clean when taken out. There was hardly any dirt clogging the pores. The main reason was that i have been consistently using an air/pollen filter for the last 5 years. Whatever dirt may have come woulad have been during the 1st year of my car, when i did not have this filter.
Attached images show the details
The top one is the side from which the air flows in, and the bottom one is where the air flows out. Both are pretty much clean.

The inlets were sealed by tape and the unit was washed and cleaned.

I am pretty much happy with Ring Road honda service till now. Had wheel alignment also done. While i was waiting for my car to be cleaned and delivered to me, the floor manager walked up to me, admiring my HID projectors. He recognised me from my earlier visits.

He offered to waive off my wheel alignment charges (approx 600), but i had already paid the bill. So he made it free for the next time. Good gesture.

I got the 90K kms service, A/C full service and wheel alignment done that day. The car was returned same day, at the time promised, and that too on a saturday when the rush is maximum.

The advice from the manager was
- A/T is pretty robust and there are relatively few issues that he has seen
- Air intake of civic is set very low, hence avoid wading through even semi deep water, as he has seen many cases of hydrostatic lock.

Rgds

[laluks]

Originally Posted by VineetG

A/C self diagnostic.

I tried this before deciding on a cooling coil change recently, it was interesting to read the findings with this diagnostics.

Originally Posted by VineetG

The full A/C service included refrigerant recycling, refilling, compressor oil, evaporator coil removal, cleaning and refitting.
Cost : Approx 3700+ tax, incl cost of gas.

The glove box has to be taken out, along with the black cover below it. The blower assembly is removed to access the evaporator.

Note that full dashboard removal is not required.

If it just the blower and evaporate, you need not remove the full dash board. But if you get some issues in the flaps then unfortunately you'll have to, since it sits just behind the head unit area. HASS charges something like 4k for removal and refitting. Gas charging extra.

The prices you have quoted is reasonable and coming from HASS is it time to believe things are changing with HASS

Originally Posted by VineetG

- Air intake of civic is set very low, hence avoid wading through even semi deep water, as he has seen many cases of hydrostatic lock.

The air intake is kept just above the battery. So this is as high as the bonnet level. However the piping goes down to a resonator assembly kept at the bumper level. If the piping or the resonator has cracks then its likely that water can be sucked in if immersed in water at those levels. One word of caution is the resonator has by design drain holes, to drain any water sucked in. But if that hole is immersed in water probably the traces of water in the piping can reach till air filter due to the suction, which is again at the bonnet level.

The piping from the inlet to the air filter is taking a quite complex path through the resonator, and if you are confident of your piping then water levels till 3/4th level of your wheels can still be waded through if in case of emergency or a do or die situation. It isn't that bad. But caution here would be watch out for your exhaust, and keep steady acceleration for this.

[sumeethaldankar]

Is there a air bag sensor behind the ac stereo panel ? I am to give my stereo for repairs and am concerned about the air bag sensor being handled by inexperienced stereo installers. If by chance it gets disconnected would it show on a diagnostic scan when done.

[laluks]

Originally Posted by sumeethaldankar

Is there a air bag sensor behind the ac stereo panel ? I am to give my stereo for repairs and am concerned about the air bag sensor being handled by inexperienced stereo installers. If by chance it gets disconnected would it show on a diagnostic scan when done.

Don't worry, there are no airbag sensors in the dash, and the actuator (Passenger airbag) is above the glove box. Removing stereo has no influence there. Behind the stereo is the AC duct and flap mechanisms in a huge black box

Out of curiosity, what's wrong with the HU? Does it read the cd, show display, but no sound?

[sumeethaldankar]

Originally Posted by laluks

Don't worry, there are no airbag sensors in the dash, and the actuator (Passenger airbag) is above the glove box. Removing stereo has no influence there. Behind the stereo is the AC duct and flap mechanisms in a huge black box

Out of curiosity, what's wrong with the HU? Does it read the cd, show display, but no sound?

Yes the stereo swtiches on and reads cds as well connects to radio but there is no sound at all. Yesterday i found even the time display going blank and i had to switch on the stereo for the display to come back on again.

[laluks]

Originally Posted by sumeethaldankar

Yes the stereo swtiches on and reads cds as well connects to radio but there is no sound at all. Yesterday i found even the time display going blank and i had to switch on the stereo for the display to come back on again.

There is a fuse for this line. Did you already check if that is blown, loose contact etc? Probably its just that?

[sumeethaldankar]

Originally Posted by laluks

There is a fuse for this line. Did you already check if that is blown, loose contact etc? Probably its just that?

No not aware of same. Is it the box inside the cabin or under the hood. I am assuming if the stereo switches on the fuse should be ok.

[spoth001]

Originally Posted by laluks

Try another tankful, probably if all is well it should be normal.

Hey another tankful and its a disaster. HASS tuned the engine but no result. I guess I have to check my air filter now. Any suggestions pls pour in.

[laluks]

Originally Posted by sumeethaldankar

No not aware of same. Is it the box inside the cabin or under the hood. I am assuming if the stereo switches on the fuse should be ok.

Probably lose contacts on the rear connector pins also, since the speakers are connected via these pins of the connector. Check the fuses and connector before deciding the Head Unit is bad.

This is Civic's Audio wiring circuit


You can see probably three fuses in the line

Fuses marked with *2 are inside the internal fuse box under the dash near steering and *1 is in the fuse box under the hood


I have taken a screen shot of a Civic DX manual for explanantion, please check your manual for exact location of the fuses in the fuse box.

Interior fuse box


Under hood fuse box


Check these fuses, and if you probably have the spare fuses which came with the car, try checking with that to see if the head unit starts working.



Also, you can remove the stereo from the Dash easily. Please check the connectors for continuity and press them in, probably it is just that.

Else remove the head unit and go to your friendly stereo service guy.

[saket77]

Originally Posted by spoth001

Hey another tankful and its a disaster. HASS tuned the engine but no result. I guess I have to check my air filter now. Any suggestions pls pour in.

1. How does the exhaust smell? If the engine is running too rich for some reason, you will smell unburnt petrol in the exhaust gases.

2. Check if none of the wheels have brake drags.

3. Air pressure in tires.

4. Clean/ Change air filter.

5. How does the engine idle? After sufficient warm up, it should settle at a smooth idle of 700-800 rpm. If not, hook the OBD analyser.

6. Check for leakages throughout the entire fuel line.

7. Any apparent change in engine response while driving - like sluggishness, loss of power, etc.

Please check and report back. Hopefully, we will find the culprit soon.

Regards,
Saket

[sumeethaldankar]

Originally Posted by laluks

Probably lose contacts on the rear connector pins also.

Thanks but all this wiring diagram is a bit too much for me. I took a pic of the fuse panel under the driver section. As per the net 5 is for the stereo AMP. But not sure if the factory head has a amp or if it's for the after market AMP. Either case the 5th fuse slot it empty.

Originally Posted by spoth001

Hey another tankful and its a disaster. HASS tuned the engine but no result. I guess I have to check my air filter now. Any suggestions pls pour in.

If HASS tuned the engine then they would have checked the air filter. I hope they cleaned the spark plugs etc. and as suggested by Saket checked for brake drag.

[laluks]

Originally Posted by sumeethaldankar

Thanks but all this wiring diagram is a bit too much for me. I took a pic of the fuse panel under the driver section. As per the net 5 is for the stereo AMP. But not sure if the factory head has a amp or if it's for the after market AMP. Either case the 5th fuse slot it empty.

Attachment 1360993

Please check fuses 35 and 14 in this fuse box.
5 is for heated seats, not available for us