Team-BHP - Honda Civic : Maintenance, Service Costs and Must dos

Team-BHP (https://www.team-bhp.com/forum/)

- Technical Stuff (https://www.team-bhp.com/forum/technical-stuff/)

- - Honda Civic : Maintenance, Service Costs and Must dos (https://www.team-bhp.com/forum/technical-stuff/47997-honda-civic-maintenance-service-costs-must-dos-315.html)

Quote:

Originally Posted by sarathlal (Post 3211883)

Is the creaking sound occurring on full-lock on both the occasions? If yes, you needn't worry, and this is just the hydraulic motor's normal behavior.

Thanks, Sarath.

This sound is much more pronounced, though, and louder than the normal at-lock HPS motor whine.

Like I said, on uneven surfaces or in the case of some obstacle to movement of the wheel being present, this new sound arises even when not at full lock.

On smooth surfaces I hear the pronounced creaking only at full lock.

Regards,
spadix

Have a peculiar problem with my civic, not sure if anyone else has faced it. Once the car is running every 10 seconds the entire display resets to zero and then comes back to where it was.

I first faced this project late last year, so when i gave it for a service post that. The mechanic did a complete check of the dash unit and said he could not find anything wrong. He then suggested me to use the headlight level setter near the steering and move it to a number greater than zero. That solved the problem then.

Now the problem has resurfaced again :( has anyone else faced a similar issue? Any pointers will be really helpful.

Apart from it being a sore to the eye. It is messing up with my trip meter and reading too. So i need help.

Thanks

Quote:

Originally Posted by Rajkv (Post 3212323)

Something similar was discussed here, but the solution is not clear from that thread.
http://www.team-bhp.com/forum/techni...s-problem.html

Thanks. I did see this post before but like you said, the solution is not clear. And so i thought i will check in this thread.

Quote:

Originally Posted by spadix (Post 3211838)

I have been facing a slightly different issue for a few days now. There is a pronounced creaking sound when I steer the wheels with the car stationary, especially when the road surface isn't smooth or when there's something obstructing the wheel (e.g. cambered road edged by sloping kerbs - typically see these in modern layouts so as to allow water to run-off).

I don't hear these creaking sounds as much on smooth surfaces (think mall parking lots) unless I turn the wheel to full-lock.

PS fluid level seems alright. There are no signs of leakage beneath the fluid canister or on the serpentine belt. Note that I couldn't check the belt fully. My assumption is that if there's a leak on the belt, over time the entire belt should be smeared with oil.

What should be checked next? PS motor, steering rack & joints and tie-rods/ends are suspects already.

Regards,
spadix

The creaking sound is normal at full turns.If the ps level is low then you need to worry about the same.If the rack needs attention one can feel a sliding motion of the front wheels while taking a bend at speed.This was precisely what was felt by me before my rack issue cropped up.If everything feels tight then i don't think you have anything to worry about.

Quote:

Originally Posted by sumeethaldankar (Post 3212740)

Everything else feels alright. Effort required to turn, grip while turning (after adjusting for the fact that 3 of the 4 tyres doing duty - and both the front tyres - have done 36900 kms as of now) and even the lack of any noise other than the slight rise in rpm and slight whine (not creak) of the HPS motor at full lock on normal surfaces.

The only other issue I can think of is where a couple of times I felt the steering wheel doesn't come back to center as quickly as it should from a full-lock to the right. No issues returning to center from full-lock to the left, as far as I can see. Even this is just a feeling, and not really scientifically corroborated/measured.

The only issue is the creaking sound in some instances. I observed a bit more carefully today and it seems to me this creaking happens when the front and rear tyres are not level. So I'm worried if somehow the chassis has come loose somewhere. :eek :)

Regards,
spadix

Quote:

Originally Posted by mjumrani (Post 3208925)

Does anyone know where I can source the Ash Tray for the civic? I really need one at the moment.

Also, would someone be kind enough to post the pic of the ash tray and how it looks in the car?

Bump for help…

Quote:

Originally Posted by laluks (Post 3210934)

Normally the light stays on for a period till the self healing happens. This could range between 20 to 100 or sometimes more ignition cycles. This depends on the OEM.

The service center diagnostics tool can read the error, erase the error etc..as we know.

Quote:

Originally Posted by sarathlal (Post 3211203)

Ideally the light should be reset with OBD equipment only and should not go away automatically.
On driving the car as is to Chennai, if the option of getting the car checked at HASS is feasible, please do that. The only risk here if we don't do this is, we are not sure whether there is indeed some other damage also done, other than this cut wire.
Since this looks like getting to a HASS which is not your regular one, try to get the clarification on this aspect alone. If they can verify that the light was caused only due to cut wire, you can safely make the drive.

Quote:

Originally Posted by laluks (Post 3211266)

You meant the soft reset, while I meant the hard reset or the cold start of the ECU in question. Soft/hard reset of the ECU's do not clear DTCs. DTCs are supposed to be logged for a reason!

No. We cannot conclude that just yet. We need to read the DTC and see what was the code to conclude.

If it was just the wire cut and you joined back, a self healing will remove the DTC (depends on the OEM and the type of DTC logged). But for that you need to have some ignition cycles (again number of such cycles depends, and also what qualifies as a ignition cycle depends on the OEM)

+1 to what sarathlal has mentioned

It is good to have an ELM327 based OBD tool with you so that you yourself can read the DTCs. Such tools are available from 20$ onwards in ebay stores.

Thanks to you all for your responses. Unfortunately, I didn't have internet access until today hence the delayed response. All is well now. Let me summarize the sequence of events:

1. As I had mentioned earlier, after connecting the wire back, had taken the car out for a 1-2km drive with the malfunction indicator 'on' to check for any anomalies but noticed none.

2. Called up the SA to share this. He advised me to drive back to Chennai slowly and safely and it was perfectly fine. The indicator was to go off after the HDS (Honda Diagnostic System) was connected to the car and the reading reset.

3. To my surprise, when I cranked the car once again after sometime to park it in a different place, I noticed the light had gone off on its own.

4. Drove back to Chennai yesterday afternoon at moderate speeds. Journey was peaceful without any problems. Dropped off the car at the H.A.S.S first thing upon my return. In addition to the issue on hand, the car was due for regular service as well. So had asked that to be covered as well.

5. Got her back home this evening. Everything is back to normal. The SA advised against replacing the entire wiring harness for the sake of this cut wire as the cost would be extremely high and that had to be procured as well. It had been joined and taped appropriately and back in its place.

Once again, thanks to all of you for your timely help.

Quote:

Originally Posted by rr_zen (Post 3213674)

3. To my surprise, when I cranked the car once again after sometime to park it in a different place, I noticed the light had gone off on its own.

Do you remember how many ignition cycles (start-stop scenario) that the car had after you joined the wires? Probably self healing has happened by that time :)

Good to know all is well :thumbs up

Quote:

Originally Posted by laluks (Post 3213734)

Do you remember how many ignition cycles (start-stop scenario) that the car had after you joined the wires? Probably self healing has happened by that time :)

Good to know all is well :thumbs up

If I remember right, there were two times that I started and stopped the car post connecting the wires when the light was still on. This was on the day I had connected the wire. I had left the car overnight and the next day when I started the car, I found the light to have gone off.

Quote:

Originally Posted by rr_zen (Post 3214130)

As of now let us assume three ignition cycles did the healing for this DTC. I am also concurring to this number with a previous experience. I rolled down a steep slope and to improve the braking, I had slotted the gear to reverse - a trick which we normally do with manual geared vehicles.

But Civvy retaliated with a compliant by logging a fault, since this scenario was not expected by the sensors in normal run. I knew nothing was wrong, so I drove on. I too had three ignition cycles before the DTC got healed by itself.

Quote:

Originally Posted by laluks (Post 3214145)

I rolled down a steep slope and to improve the braking, I had slotted the gear to reverse - a trick which we normally do with manual geared vehicles.

Why would you do that even in a manual transmission vehicle. ?? I don't think that a good thing to do.

Quote:

Originally Posted by srsriharsha (Post 3214252)

Why would you do that even in a manual transmission vehicle. ?? I don't think that a good thing to do.

I was a little afraid of asking this question myself, but +1. Something about this doesn't feel very right.

Note that even letting a car in a forward gear roll down slowly on a reverse slope (should anyone want to do this let's say maybe on a narrow ghat road to roll back and let someone not following the right-of-way to go through -- have had to this but did it using running engine + reverse gear + brakes) doesn't seem right to me.

Regards,
spadix

Quote:

Originally Posted by laluks (Post 3214145)

I rolled down a steep slope and to improve the braking, I had slotted the gear to reverse - a trick which we normally do with manual geared vehicles.

I am also confused!
Will the car move forward then?

I do not want to create an out cry here. But these tricks are pretty much used especially in some serious slopes. Yes the vehicle will still move forward!