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By any chance, were you using hand brakes for parking?
Had experienced this on morning starts, if after washing the previous day, the hand brake is engaged and parked overnight.

Yes, this happens after the handbrake is released. Even when parked on inclines for a few minutes sometimes.

Oh ok, then its just the hand brake easing up and the sound you hear is that metal clank.
This is normal.
Another frightening, but related, thing that we might see after a similar set up is rust on the discs. A few meter ride, and it will be gone and will not re appear until the discs are allowed to dry for itself after washing.

Couple of practical ways to verify this is;
1. With same setup, but do not use hand brakes for once and try this the next morning. If all is normal(which means, you should not be hearing that sound), then everything is indeed normal. (It is perfectly fine, not to use hand brakes. If on incline, can use physical barriers for extra support to prevent tires rolling)
2. After washing, drive the car for around 400-500 meters with brakes slightly pressed before parking it. The rust kind of thing will not come.

Do you usually park on a incline?

When parking on a incline first engage the handbrake and then put the vehicle in P (let it be in N /D/R/S when you engage the handbrake).
If this is not done then moving from P-R later will be a harder and jerky especially on steep inclines and it should be avoided.

Another instance when it is jerky is if you put it from N-D and almost instantly accelerate (happened some times on signals to me)

Except for above 2 instances, I dot feel any jerks.

But will not this cause the hand brake to be biting the discs hard and still produce the clanking sound once released and the vehicle starts to move?

Correct. Infact you can hear a very small click after the selection is made. Move/accelerate only after that. Its almost instantaneous, so needn't wait too much.

Sorry, I chose a wrong post to reply for the above comment. Please read it in context to "hard to move from P to R" and associated jerks.

The handbrake sound (due to rust) usually occurs for me too but only after parking for > 24h. It never comes up overnight or after a few minutes as mentioned here
.
Note that my car(including wheels) is washed daily.

The ABS Light came ON just when I started 400 km drive to Greater Noida from Jaipur....is it some major expense in the waiting???

I must say, the braking without ABS felt 1000% more superior and precise as the ABS used to engage itself on every tight foot braking. What fun and confident 800 km 2-way journey it was with all 4 discs working without the ABS engaging itself unnecessarily, constant run of 120-140 was breeze and confident too due to fantastic braking which i did i feel this much with ABS.

Should I leave it like that, or get ABS repaired? What can be potential cause and costs involved?

Thanks!

While my gut would have earlier told me that there is something wrong with the A/T oil as well, I now have to point out that this could be a problem with your engine mount. I faced similar issues before I got my mount replaced. See if there is any gap between the engine and the mount. Also, you may notice the jerking and sound increase soon. Sorry!

I have a feeling that your ABS was with some bug. I could not get the ABS to come on even when doing a TD of the Civic (or the Altis). ABS only triggers when there is some slipping (ie unacceptable differential in wheel rotation rates).

Please do get the ABS attended to pronto.

I notice this several times while braking firmly over gravel/ braking over potholes especially when the wheel loses contact momentarily. So I doubt if that is a bug as it does not come on otherwise.

Doctor, the shudder SHOULDN'T be violent, not even one out of five times. It'll only get worse.

a) The first preventive measure is to get fresh ATF in. Either the Z1 or the new DW1 (Found this in Linkway) to be used.

The drain and refill needs to be done FOUR Times for the entire old ATF to be replaced. Doing it just once won't get rid of all the old fluid - the fluid still will not be pristine - worst case do it at least THRICE.

The above should solve the issue.

b) I also use Lubegard ATF additive and am extremely happy. Pretty popular and the only additive which is OEM approved. Used this only post a lot of R&D in bobistheoilguy.com and driveaccord.net

http://www.team-bhp.com/forum/modifi...-additive.html

A new replacement trans is a pain. The labour charge is huge and the downtime is high. Better safe than sorry.

What is the chief cause for this Sir. My Alignment, balancing, tyres, brakes were in good shape. The ABS light is always ON.

Ditto! And its not confidence inspiring. Gets very annoying and scary too sometimes. My ABS light does not come momentarily, it now stays ON.

my 2006 1.8 smt jerks very slightly when crossing 2.2k rpm in any gear. Is this normal?

No this is not normal mate. imo, It could be due to two reasons - (a) worn out clutch plates... how many kms have you crossed and when was the last time you overhauled the clutch? (b) Transmission or drive train problem. Please get it reported and checked in an authorized service centre.

Sir, I feel you probably are mistaking traction control with ABS. Braking over gravel or other slippery surfaces does result in a wheel spin but ABS does not totally aid you with that. ABS only helps in not locking your wheels so you lose steering control. A good way to check ABS being functional is when panic braking you should feel pulsation in your pedal. If that happens your ABS is doing it's job, I think.