[sushrutha]

Originally Posted by rr_zen

I have read that as the temperature increases, fuel tends to expand thereby could possibly spill over.

Right. The density of the fuel decreases as the temperature rises.
In a bunk if you observe the density(thru density display unit)of the fuel is pretty much high/more during night , early morning and density is decreased by mid-noon.
So it's better to fill petrol early in the morning.

On a different note, what is the benefit of filling upto the brim than filling upto auto cut off ? As I can see, one can fill in 2-3 litres more using the former method than the latter. Is there anything else am missing here ?

The following reasons

Originally Posted by spadix

The tankful to auto-cutoff method on the other hand depends on nozzle length and how deep inside the tank the operator holds the nozzle.

Else it's always better to fill the fuel at the same bunk, same dispensing unit and same nozzle in a reputed bunk for the sake of accuracy

[dot]

Here is an observation related to starting the car when it is parked on an incline, with the nose pointing up.

Sometimes I have noticed that when I start the car when it is parked on an incline, moving the AT lever from P to R results in a mild jerk. This occurs inspite of keeping the brake pedal pressed. Position of parking brake does not matter.

Today, I was about to start from a grocery shop. Car was parked on incline. I realized that the lever is feeling hard and surely will result in a jerk if moved from P to R. So started the car deliberately keeping gear lever in N. Then moved the lever to R. No jerk.

This type of behavior does not occur when car is parked on a flat surface.

Any idea on why this happens?

Originally Posted by sushrutha

In a bunk if you observe the density(thru density display unit)of the fuel is pretty much high/more during night , early morning and density is decreased by mid-noon.
So it's better to fill petrol early in the morning.

I would have agreed with this point till about 4 o'clock today evening. Why is that? Because, around that time I was reading Wikipedia about dispensing stations. Turns out that modern computer controlled dispensing stations has mass flow controllers which account for change in density. This means that regardless of density fluctuations due to change of ambient temperature, the delivered volume will be same.

Now question is, which bunks in our country have such dispensing stations?

[vasoo]

Originally Posted by dot

Here is an observation related to starting the car when it is parked on an incline, with the nose pointing up.

Sometimes I have noticed that when I start the car when it is parked on an incline, moving the AT lever from P to R results in a mild jerk. This occurs inspite of keeping the brake pedal pressed. Position of parking brake does not matter.

Today, I was about to start from a grocery shop. Car was parked on incline. I realized that the lever is feeling hard and surely will result in a jerk if moved from P to R. So started the car deliberately keeping gear lever in N. Then moved the lever to R. No jerk.

This type of behavior does not occur when car is parked on a flat surface.

Any idea on why this happens?
...

I too have noticed this. This seems to happen because P mode also lock the wheels in addition to disengaging power train, whereas in N mode it is just neutral. The jerk may be happening becaue the wheel lock is removed when you move from P to R.

[sumeethaldankar]

What would be the ideal life of the suspension parts of a civic,.I drove a used civic which seemed to rattle a litle bit.The odo was 32K and the tyres look as if they had life of around 2-5 k in them and slight cracks here and there.

[madbullram]

Have been spending more than 5 hrs now reading the various threads on the tyre upgrade and I am still confused on which one to go :(. Following are my needs

1. City drive 90% in Chennai bad road condition
2. Comfortable and safe (dry and wet)
3. Low noise

I have decided on 205/65 R15 as the best size after reading the benefits from GC. I was decided on CPC2 then I read about all bad reviews of its grip and stopping distance.

Then was thinking let me decide on PLC then I read about side wall damage and how its not worth spending the money etc and also not much of value in city riding

Then I see another thread which talks about how good Bridgestone B390 is

Now I am back to square one...

PLs help!!!

[iTNerd]

Originally Posted by madbullram

Have been spending more than 5 hrs now reading the various threads on the tyre upgrade and I am still confused on which one to go :(. Following are my needs

1. City drive 90% in Chennai bad road condition
2. Comfortable and safe (dry and wet)
3. Low noise

I have decided on 205/65 R15 as the best size after reading the benefits from GC. I was decided on CPC2 then I read about all bad reviews of its grip and stopping distance.

Then was thinking let me decide on PLC then I read about side wall damage and how its not worth spending the money etc and also not much of value in city riding

Then I see another thread which talks about how good Bridgestone B390 is

Now I am back to square one...

PLs help!!!

I can't comment on other tyres. But as I had been using PLC, let me comment. I have done 23K kms with 205/65 R15, and can remember having only 2 punctures, and no side wall issue. And if I see the condition of the tyre, its still new, with little wear & tear and it is hard to tell it has done 23K kms. Looking at it, I am hoping I can easily do another 25K kms at the minimum. Regarding the bad roads, no matter which tyres you put, the civic suspension being ultra soft, is not going to give you much comfort.

Am I satisfied? Noise reduction, handling and comfortable - yes, totally! I also noticed that the PLC are FE friendly.

[madbullram]

Thanks IT Nerd, the bad roads I was mentioning was more from side wall damage than comfort. Also, the difference in price seems to be around 800rs for the PLCs, just want to be sure before I take the plunge.

Now Turanza ER60 is added to confusion :(

[vasoo]

I also use PLC for almost 10K kms now and never had a puncture yet. Absolutely no issues with sidewalls or anything. Very comfortable and silent as well. Gets about 10-11 kmpl FE in the city.

[dot]

Originally Posted by madbullram

Then was thinking let me decide on PLC then I read about side wall damage and how its not worth spending the money etc and also not much of value in city riding

PLC = Primacy LC? In that case, they run my car also. As folks have pointed out, very comfortable and super silent. FE..not sure, maybe marginally up.

Been using Michelins for the last 4+ years. No side wall issues ever faced, except for once when someone deliberately slashed the side wall with a sharp object at a parking lot.

[dot]

I was cleaning the engine bay today. Took off the air filter box and was cleaning the parts when I paid attention to the air flow process for the first time. Very soon I realized that the air intake comes from the snorkel next to the battery. Here is a diagram from an Si, for our R18 the basic layout is similar.



Later, surfing the net on this aspect, came across very interesting DIYs. Take a look. Hoping for a discussion on this.

Homemade Icebox Intake - 8th Generation Honda Civic Forum

One of the later pages carries a dyno chart. Even though it is for an Si, the hp and torque gains are remarkable, specially when you consider that the cost of the DIY is almost zero.

[laluks]

@dot, I once blew up my resonator behind the left fog, and man that was a revelation. Since I was afraid that she'll suck in water I finally replaced it.

Basically she'll breathe free and sing well

[dot]

Originally Posted by laluks

I once blew up my resonator behind the left fog, and man that was a revelation. Since I was afraid that she'll suck in water I finally replaced it.

@Laluks, didnt understand what you meant by "blew up" the resonator? Was there an accident? Or water went in by mistake through the snorkel!! Since you have replaced it, it will be great if you can share the price.

That it might suck up water if driven around on flooded areas is a real possibility on our roads. In US, such situations are rare. I am wondering how can we circumvent the water suction issue. If we can do that, this DIY seems to be better than installing a CAI.

[laluks]

A case of dog hit. Bumper caved in and resonator box broke. Came back home removed the bumper pushed it back to shape and checked the resonator.

It is a small black plastic squarish box with some piping inside to route the flow of the intake. It also contributes to the sweet sound Civvy makes. Since that box was quite low, we had the fear of sucking in water in our waterlogged situations through the crack. But I had loved the few days I drove with out it, she sang and danced quite well.

Costed around 900 to replace, nothing major. As the name suggests, resonator helps to give a sweet note.

[sgiitk]

@laluks; resonator also tunes the inlet to add air at some speeds, so it is not necessarily cosmetic only.

[spadix]

Originally Posted by sumeethaldankar

What would be the ideal life of the suspension parts of a civic,.I drove a used civic which seemed to rattle a litle bit.The odo was 32K and the tyres look as if they had life of around 2-5 k in them and slight cracks here and there.

Are you sure the rattles are from suspension bits? I've usually seen rattles coming from panels (door, roof) and plastics (armrest, dashboard bits etc.).

Before the suspension gives out the engine mount would (and it contributes to some metallic noises while going over bad patches of road), so it's better to check that first.

Cracks in tyre sidewalls are more a case of age than distance covered. Is this a very old (2006/7) Civic running stock tyres? If so, that explains the cracks on the sidewalls.

Regards,
spadix