[KK_HakunaMatata]

Hi Guys,

Having owned few sedans for over 10 years (Accent, Corolla & Civic, all were pre-owned), now I am looking at getting a Laura 1.8 TSI.

I have come across a well maintained car and the owner is an enthusiast himself. I will be taking the car to Skoda ASS next week to check for the errors and to know the possible repairs/ replacements on the car.

I have also gone through some parts of this thread and have noted couple of points to keep in mind. I would request all the gurus here to help me with the cost I can expect in case of each of the below failures and add if I have missed anything -

• Timing chain snapping (what could be the cost of replacing all the parts like case, tensioner etc). Also I read on the forum that if the chain tensioner is replaced, it would be just fine, is this right?
  
• AC compressor. Can this be repaired or replaced?
  
• Water pump. What would be the cost of getting this in order?
  
• Suspension parts, bushes, subframe. What would be the cost of these and what is the usual time this is to be replaced

The car I am checking out is a 2011 TSI with 62k on the ODO.

What are the additional things I should check out if the car is remapped, assuming the car is handled responsibly and maintained well by the owner after remapping.

Thanks in advance.

KK

[sidpak]

Originally Posted by MileCruncher

I generally tap/ punch the area on the door panel next to the opening lever and the actuator gets unstuck and the door opens. I haven't tried it but I would presume opening up the door panel and spraying some WD40 ( repels moisture) will do the trick.

Hope this helps!

Thanks Milecruncher,

Spraying the locking mechanism with WD40 and liberally greasing it did the trick for me, I didnt even have to open up the door panel.

Cheers, Sid

[sidpak]

Skoda Laura 1.9 TDI Battery

Hi Folks,

My 11 year/ 135Km young Skoda Laura 1.9 TDI Manual is on its second battery currently which is a Amaron Din60 battery close to 5 years old.

I was checking online since it is time to replace the battery and find that most websites recommend a Din74 battery for my car whereas the current battery is a Din60 battery which has given me no trouble at all through the last 5 years.

Any views on which battery to install would be much appreciated,

Cheers,
Sid

[MileCruncher]

From the past 1 week I have been getting a strange knocking sound from the engine when I try to pull the engine in the same gear under 1000 Rpm. The sound is more like smooth cough.
Couple of other noteworthy things:

1. The sound is only there between 900-1000 Rpm. It goes away when the engine picks up speed.
2. The sound is more pronounced with the AC on rather than without.
3. Pick up or mileage has not been affected.

I have been thinking if any of these could be the reason:

1. Some leak in the Turbo Air Inlet hose
2. The V Belt is old and may be slipping at lower RPM which may be is leading to AC Compressor drive slipping. The belt is anyways up for change.

Also recently I had the HPFP change and had decarbonisation of engine.

Looking for some pointers on cause estimation and according rectification.

[MileCruncher]

I have decided to go for Stage 1 Remap for my Laura 1.8TSI and I have following options:

1. Revo
2. Code6 Tuning
3. APR
4. Superchip
5. Pete's

My need is mostly upping the low end torque for in city drivability rather than upping the top end.

Which should I go for?

[pkrish]

Originally Posted by csr9

Hi,

I got the ECM repaired. Had to courier it to Mumbai for repair. Installation & minor changes to wiring were done by the local dealer. Everything works fine post repair, barring ESP & TPMS.

Since you are located in HYD, there are competent garages who can sort this out for you. A new ECM may not be worth it considering the age & resale value of the car.

Could you please share where you got the ECM repaired?

[akki5069]

Hi Guys,

I own a 2012 Skoda Laura Vrs, I have always been very critical and vocal about the body roll issues with the car and it never inspired me to take spirited turns or exits that my another car Mitsubishi Cedia does with a lot of ease.

I have recently got the suspension of the car completely changed to new from Skoda Service centre since I believe the spring rate and the damping rate of Sachs (hardly 3-4k kms old) didn't match leaving me uncomfortable every single time.

I have wanted to lower the car since long to have it more planted esp on the highways. The aftermarket options offered from multiple suppliers like Bilstein, etc, would definitely mean I would be required to change the brand new dampers again and it is my daily driver hence I am not looking for a very stiff drive (esp when I have a slip disc issue).

I came across a couple of international threads mentioning lowering kits offered by Skoda for the Vrs model, has anyone tested those or any views on those ? They apparently would lower the car by 12-15 mm and would cost me about 35k to import. Your views please, folks.

Thanks

[akki5069]

Originally Posted by MileCruncher

I have decided to go for Stage 1 Remap for my Laura 1.8TSI and I have following options:

1. Revo
2. Code6 Tuning
3. APR
4. Superchip
5. Pete's

My need is mostly upping the low end torque for in city drivability rather than upping the top end.

Which should I go for?

Even I would be highly interested to know the response of fellow bhpians here, I myself would be happy to find a solution to the low end torque

[dhawalmakwana99]

Originally Posted by akki5069

Even I would be highly interested to know the response of fellow bhpians here, I myself would be happy to find a solution to the low end torque

It is important to understand if you are planning on sticking to only a Stage 1 remap for better drivability or if you will be looking to go higher on the power numbers.

I would highly recommend to go in for a APR map as they are the most reliable IMO.

No doubt other companies like Superchips, Code6, E-Tuners etc. are also good.

APR Stg1 is a good blend of low end torque and high end performance.
Beware that APR no longer offers a Stg2 and directly upgrades to Stg3 with a K04 turbo if you look to get more later on.

[akki5069]

Originally Posted by dhawalmakwana99

It is important to understand if you are planning on sticking to only a Stage 1 remap for better drivability or if you will be looking to go higher on the power numbers.

I would highly recommend to go in for a APR map as they are the most reliable IMO.

No doubt other companies like Superchips, Code6, E-Tuners etc. are also good.

APR Stg1 is a good blend of low end torque and high end performance.
Beware that APR no longer offers a Stg2 and directly upgrades to Stg3 with a K04 turbo if you look to get more later on.

Thanks Dhawal for your revert,

I have been contemplating on a stage 1 or 2 since some time now but I have been grappling with a few concerns esp considering it is my daily -

1. Reliability - A friend of mine has a Code 6 dealership, he suggests code 6 stage 2 with a downpipe
2. With changes like Downpipe - Warning light will flash ?
3. Will stock springs and shock be fine for a Stage 2
4. I dont want a very stiff drive and slightly lowered to reduce body roll - friends around suggested to go for lowering springs on stock shocks while I am not aligned to that thought, I have come across Stock lowered spring were offered in international markets - I am considering those

before anything i need to solve a minor rubbing feel i get while driving the car on low speed

[dhawalmakwana99]

Originally Posted by akki5069

Thanks Dhawal for your revert,

I have been contemplating on a stage 1 or 2 since some time now but I have been grappling with a few concerns esp considering it is my daily -

1. Reliability - A friend of mine has a Code 6 dealership, he suggests code 6 stage 2 with a downpipe
2. With changes like Downpipe - Warning light will flash ?
3. Will stock springs and shock be fine for a Stage 2
4. I dont want a very stiff drive and slightly lowered to reduce body roll - friends around suggested to go for lowering springs on stock shocks while I am not aligned to that thought, I have come across Stock lowered spring were offered in international markets - I am considering those

before anything i need to solve a minor rubbing feel i get while driving the car on low speed

Reliability is going to be a calculated gamble. Make sure your internals are strong enough for the upgrade.
Our cars suffer from thin piston rings and timing chain tensioner woes. Your oil consumption needs to be normal. The turbo needs to be in a good state.

According to me, Code6 is a more conservative tune with their Stg2 offering upto 220bhp while APR's Stg1 is around 230bhp.
Mind you, these numbers are quoted and I do not have verified by me.

A Stg2 tune requires a downpipe which is required for extra exhaust gases that are produced.
Excess amount of soot will cause the O2 sensor to stop working and will throw a CEL.
You can either choose to keep the Lambda sensor 2 which is on the downpipe, or choose to eliminate it. Getting your car to pass the polution norms will be a challenge if you eliminate the O2 sensor.

IMO suspension is an upgrade that one needs to do before any tune.
Lowering springs do make the car slightly stiffer, more aesthetic but is not entirely effective when it comes to bettering handling.
A good set of coilovers is the way to go.
There are many brands that offer a good balance between comfort and stiffness.
Euro spec springs I have no experience of, so cannot comment.

Do not forget upgrading the brakes. Atleast the brake pads. EBC, Brembo stock replacement pads are a few of my choices.

Air intake. A good cold air intake (not necessarily carbon) is also what you should be looking at if you are thinking of Stg2.

[akki5069]

Thanks Dhawal

I am working on it and shall keep this thread updated, I have completely overhauled the entire suspension, first from Outside service centre. While, I was never happy with Sachs so last month I got it completed redone from Skoda. I am pretty happy with the outcome since earlier I always complained about the mismatch between springs and the dampers.

I am not so keen to get a cold air intake since the current placement of the intake is actually a cold air slot while shifting it to inside of engine bay would not do much of a good (personal opinion), hence looking for a stock box fit one.

I am evaluating if I actually want to take the gamble of fiddling with this car since it is my daily and keep this thread updated as I proceed forward.

Thanks

[akki5069]

Thanks Dhawal,

I am taking things step by step, while in parallel I am looking out for a Vrs 230 - that seems a brilliant package.

Coming back to Skoda Laura RS -
1. I am planning to first go for lowering springs - Euro Specs since I dont wish to go for another new set of dampers now
2. I will go for stock replacement free flow (better flow) filter, is there stock box filter replacement option - which shall go in the box, not too keen for a conical one since it will be pulling engine heat
3. I have my service due and the car has always been to SKODA ASS, should I go for Skoda Engine Oil or after market options like - Addinol, Liqui moly, Amsoil, etc.

Would appreciate a response on point no 2 & 3

[dhawalmakwana99]

Originally Posted by akki5069

Thanks Dhawal,

I am taking things step by step, while in parallel I am looking out for a Vrs 230 - that seems a brilliant package.

Coming back to Skoda Laura RS -
1. I am planning to first go for lowering springs - Euro Specs since I dont wish to go for another new set of dampers now
2. I will go for stock replacement free flow (better flow) filter, is there stock box filter replacement option - which shall go in the box, not too keen for a conical one since it will be pulling engine heat
3. I have my service due and the car has always been to SKODA ASS, should I go for Skoda Engine Oil or after market options like - Addinol, Liqui moly, Amsoil, etc.

Would appreciate a response on point no 2 & 3

Stock replacement filters are good. I run a Stg1 tune and I am satisfied with the stock air intake.
Replacement filters from K&N or BMC will be good if you are not planning to push the envelope in terms of performance. Essentially air intakes are for bigger turbo applications where you need more air flow, colder air (intercooler upgrade required there)

When I was in BOM, I had completely lost my trust with the then Skoda dealer so I had my service needs taken care of at N1 Racing.

I used to use Motul 8100 X-Cess 05W40 for more than 03 years now.
I have once done a service in Delhi where they did Amsoil but honestly I didn't find any difference over Motul.

However, I do plan on switching to Liqui Moly 05W40 and see the difference. I have heard great reviews about the oil in India and internationally.

If you are planning to use Liqui Moly, please let me know your review as well.

[akki5069]

Originally Posted by dhawalmakwana99

Stock replacement filters are good. I run a Stg1 tune and I am satisfied with the stock air intake.
Replacement filters from K&N or BMC will be good if you are not planning to push the envelope in terms of performance. Essentially air intakes are for bigger turbo applications where you need more air flow, colder air (intercooler upgrade required there)

When I was in BOM, I had completely lost my trust with the then Skoda dealer so I had my service needs taken care of at N1 Racing.

I used to use Motul 8100 X-Cess 05W40 for more than 03 years now.
I have once done a service in Delhi where they did Amsoil but honestly I didn't find any difference over Motul.

However, I do plan on switching to Liqui Moly 05W40 and see the difference. I have heard great reviews about the oil in India and internationally.

If you are planning to use Liqui Moly, please let me know your review as well.

I myself have been a little skeptical with Skoda guys since my last few experiences, they are not too keen on solving minor niggles which take time and attention, according to them they don't exist. I have to send pictures and guide them every single time what needs to be done and many a times half of those jobs are not even attempted.
So I am going to keep them for parts only and planning to visit GT Tunerz this time around. I shall have a detailed discussion with Akshay (owner) and shall update back here on the recommended options as well as my experience with the new oil (for me all are going to be new experience since the car has always run on Skoda ASS oils and once I used Shell Helix, absolutely hated it)