[vishy76]

Originally Posted by Bala.V

Hi,

I am now having the same issue with my 2011 Skoda Laura TDI, which is shutting off initially after a couple of seconds. This happens only occasionally particularly if I don't use the car for a couple of days.
I showed it to the (now infamous) Skoda service Center and initially they said they have checked the vehicle and there was no issue in the scan. After a week i approached them again as I was facing the same issue. This time within a week they changed their opinion and suggested to change the ECM, which would cost around 1.5 lakhs. (Boooom)
Expecting valuable suggestions from experienced friends in the group. Planning to check with New Mars in Hyderabad for a second opinion.

This seems to be a known issue with the ECU of the 2.0 TDI. Don't worry though, replacing the ECU is not the only way out thankfully. There are specialists who repair the ECUs as well.

Here's a link to a Volkswagen Jetta's ECU repair video which had a similar failure:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=iRgdfafi_B0

Before doing so however, do a thorough inspection of all the fuses and relays which sit inside the fuse box in the engine bay. Check all of them for not only continuity but also whether each relay and fuse is allowing the specified amount of voltage through it as it should. Even the smallest discrepancies in voltage can lead to the ECU throwing up error codes.

[Bala.V]

Originally Posted by vishy76

Before doing so however, do a thorough inspection of all the fuses and relays which sit inside the fuse box in the engine bay. Check all of them for not only continuity but also whether each relay and fuse is allowing the specified amount of voltage through it as it should. Even the smallest discrepancies in voltage can lead to the ECU throwing up error codes.

Thanks Vishy for the suggestions. I will go to an Independent garage and get the checks done.

[csr9]

Originally Posted by Bala.V

Hi,

I am now having the same issue with my 2011 Skoda Laura TDI, which is shutting off initially after a couple of seconds.

Hi,

I got the ECM repaired. Had to courier it to Mumbai for repair. Installation & minor changes to wiring were done by the local dealer. Everything works fine post repair, barring ESP & TPMS.

Since you are located in HYD, there are competent garages who can sort this out for you. A new ECM may not be worth it considering the age & resale value of the car.

[Bala.V]

Hi, Has anyone used Bosch Service center in Hyderabad for car service. Any feed backs please. Thanks.

Originally Posted by csr9

Hi,

I got the ECM repaired. Had to courier it to Mumbai for repair. Installation & minor changes to wiring were done by the local dealer. Everything works fine post repair, barring ESP & TPMS.

Since you are located in HYD, there are competent garages who can sort this out for you. A new ECM may not be worth it considering the age & resale value of the car.

Agreed. I will try some Independent Garage in Hyderabad.
I too was feeling that replacing ECM is not worth it. And resale value quote was 3 lakhs.

[Bala.V]

Hello Guys,
Today I had another issue with my 2011 Laura Diesel. After I started my car today after 4 days, the coolant temperature gauge started to swing from left to right erratically. The symbol in the instrument cluster started flashing with intermittent beeps. Then the flashing and beeps stopped and the temperature gauge pointer went to zero. But there was no issues to the engine and the pickup was good with good ac running.

I drove the car for 70 kms and switched off the car. The engine temperature in the bonnet was normal. But there was a sound of blower running in the bonnet even after i switched off the car and locked the car.

Any reasons why this would have happened?

I will take to service tomorrow. Hope this is not yet another major issue.

[Jeroen]

Originally Posted by Bala.V

I will take to service tomorrow. Hope this is not yet another major issue.

Here is the good news: as you drove it for 70 km and nothing happened its probably nothing major. The fan still blowing after switching off is not necessarily unusual. On many cars this is just standard to facilitate proper cooling after shut down. But apparently, it appears you have never experienced, or noticed before.

The erratic behavior of the dials and beeps could be due to one of two things: lots of air pocket in the system or just a sensor going wonky, a bad electrical connection somewhere.

If there was a serious problem with the cooling system, you would have seen some considerable damage of the engine after driving 70km. Since it appears all is ok, I would suspect something wrong with the dials and or sensors, electrics.

Rule of thumb though: on cars you can happily ignore oil pressure and coolant temperature gauges. But never ever ignore a red light showing up in your dashboard. Pull over safely, stop the engine and get it investigated. It might be a sensor, but a red warning light ALWAYS indicates a potential major problem.

The dials are just indicative and not even properly calibrated. But the red lights come on a too high coolant/engine temperature or too low oil pressure. Never ever ignore them!

So get it all checked and I hope it is just a minor thing. Let us know what they find please!

Good luck
Jeroen

[dhawalmakwana99]

Hi all.

I have recently had a custom exhaust system installed on my Skoda Laura 1.8 TSI. Unfortunately I also installed the downpipe without realising that my car does not have a Stg 2 tune (minimum requirement) because of which I have a lambda sensor erratically functioning and it is throwing a CEL on the dashboard.

So I changed back to the stock downpipe hoping to get rid of the CEL.

Once the error is cleared, it does not pop up untill the engine is started for the third time.

I have checked for the connections and have travelled about 550kms from Delhi to Lucknow. But the CEL does not go away.

Any suggestions as to why the car still throws a CEL?
Please note that the car absolutely drives fine and did not show any signs of trouble in pick up/ cruising/ acceleration/ fuel economy with 3 people in the car and a boot full of stuff (yes, a Skoda's boot packed with suitcases and other stuff )

Also, anybody on the forum with a VCDS scanner who can help me scan the car once because I reconnected the lambda sensor connection under the hood?



Thanks in advance.


DM99

[Bala.V]

Originally Posted by Bala.V

Hello Guys,
Today I had another issue with my 2011 Laura Diesel. After I started my car today after 4 days, the coolant temperature gauge started to swing from left to right erratically. The symbol in the instrument cluster started flashing with intermittent beeps. Then the flashing and beeps stopped and the temperature gauge pointer went to zero. But there was no issues to the engine and the pickup was good with good ac running.

I drove the car for 70 kms and switched off the car. The engine temperature in the bonnet was normal. But there was a sound of blower running in the bonnet even after i switched off the car and locked the car.

Any reasons why this would have happened?

I will take to service tomorrow. Hope this is not yet another major issue.

My follow up on the issue.

Took the car to Service Center in Secunderabad.
I was informed that the engine was heating up too much. I told them to touch the bonnet and see there was no heating even after running for 45 minutes. But they were sure that the engine was heating but the heat was not coming outside.
Asked me to leave the car for a day for them to checkup.
Next day they called and said there was an issue with the ECM and had to be replaced. Which will cost 1.2 + GST + labour.
I took the car back after paying for the Sanitization, checkup and Inspection charges.
Went to New mars and asked for remedy. After 2 days i was told that the problem is in the ECM but can be set right for 40K.

Got the car back after about 10 days and now the car is running smooth without any issues.

Shall keep informed for any new developments.

[ajmat]

Originally Posted by Bala.V

My follow up on the issue.

Which will cost 1.2 + GST + labour.
I took the car back after paying for the Sanitization, checkup and Inspection charges.
Went to New mars and asked for remedy. After 2 days i was told that the problem is in the ECM but can be set right for 40K.

Got the car back after about 10 days and now the car is running smooth without any issues.

Shall keep informed for any new developments.

Your engine does not overheat.
Before you do anything expensive, try changing the coolant sensor. It does not cost very much.

[csr9]

Hello,

I am facing higher coolant temperature issue on my Skoda.

Driving at higher RPM’s (shifting above 4k RPM) for 5-10 minutes is resulting in coolant temperature rising a couple of points above 90 degrees. However, the temperature get’s back to 90 degrees if driven normally (shifting below 2.5k - 3K).

The coolant temperature is rising under high load conditions. Under regular driving conditions, the coolant temperature remains normal. There are no errors codes as well. Been facing this issue for a while.

What could be the issue?

Thank you.

[varoon9999]

Hi Folks,

I've purchased a pair of rear LED light assembly for my Laura from Ali express. While the lights are already installed on my ride they are not illuminating completely.

One of the LED strip is not getting lit, rest everything is working fine. I presume the wiring for Indian model and for Chinese Octavia MK2 is not the same, hence the issue.

I think I need to visit an electrician who can get this fixed with some soldering here and there, meantime if anyone here can help me in this regard to take this up as a DIY, also if it recommended to fiddle around the LED's, else I am fine with current illumination too. The Skoda complete illuminated "C" is what I am missing badly. Pictures for your reference pls.

[Vaibhav]

Hello,

I own a Škoda Laura (2013) 2.0 TDI MT which has now 100k+ kms on the Odo.
So far I am quite satisfied with the overall experience of the car.

I read many posts regarding 1.8 TSI engine damage due to timing tensioners failing. Does 2.0 TDI also have similar issues ?
I plan to get the timing belt replaced for my laura this month and wanted to check if I also should think about the tensioner and get it replaced as well?
I checked with the local Škoda dealer they only suggest to replace the belt and the pulley.

Secondly, I also plan to upgrade to HIDs for the low beam as suggested by many fellow teambhpians.
But my question is how do I code the HIDs in?
Do I really need to code it in if my HIDs (let’s say OSRAM) are CANBUS compatible ?
Lastly, Will I have some issues if the slim ballast is placed inside the headlight housing due to heat generated over time?

[vishy76]

Originally Posted by Vaibhav

Hello,

I own a Škoda Laura (2013) 2.0 TDI MT which has now 100k+ kms on the Odo.
So far I am quite satisfied with the overall experience of the car.

I read many posts regarding 1.8 TSI engine damage due to timing tensioners failing. Does 2.0 TDI also have similar issues ?
I plan to get the timing belt replaced for my laura this month and wanted to check if I also should think about the tensioner and get it replaced as well?
I checked with the local Škoda dealer they only suggest to replace the belt and the pulley.

The entire timing kit consist of the following:
- The tensioner
- The idler pulley
- Roller

I would also suggest you get the water pump replaced if it hasn't been replaced before as the 2.0 TDI is notorious for water pump failures.

And yes, do compulsorily get the tensioner changed. Although the failure rate is nowhere close to the TSI's, it's still a very crucial component and since you are anyways spending on labour to change the belt and rollers, it's better to change the tensioner as well.

[Maibaa]

Originally Posted by Vaibhav

Secondly, I also plan to upgrade to HIDs for the low beam as suggested by many fellow teambhpians.
But my question is how do I code the HIDs in?
Do I really need to code it in if my HIDs (let’s say OSRAM) are CANBUS compatible ?
Lastly, Will I have some issues if the slim ballast is placed inside the headlight housing due to heat generated over time?

HID can be installed without issues if they are Canbus compatible and many manufacturers such as Osram offer these.

The HID ballasts are installed outside the headlight assembly and do not pose any heat related issues.

Please refer to the below discussion on HID options.

https://www.team-bhp.com/forum/techn...ml#post4310226 (Skoda Laura: Problems & solutions thread)

[Behemoth]

Originally Posted by Vaibhav

Hello,

I own a Škoda Laura (2013) 2.0 TDI MT which has now 100k+ kms on the Odo.
So far I am quite satisfied with the overall experience of the car.

I read many posts regarding 1.8 TSI engine damage due to timing tensioners failing. Does 2.0 TDI also have similar issues ?
I plan to get the timing belt replaced for my laura this month and wanted to check if I also should think about the tensioner and get it replaced as well?
I checked with the local Škoda dealer they only suggest to replace the belt and the pulley.

Secondly, I also plan to upgrade to HIDs for the low beam as suggested by many fellow teambhpians.
But my question is how do I code the HIDs in?
Do I really need to code it in if my HIDs (let’s say OSRAM) are CANBUS compatible ?
Lastly, Will I have some issues if the slim ballast is placed inside the headlight housing due to heat generated over time?

Hi,
I also have a 2012 Laura TDI and can address most of your queries:
1) The Timing belt, Tensioner and Pulley come as a kit and when you get it done at the service centre, they will replace all the parts together.

2) HID upgrade in the low beams of the Laura is one of the easiest I have ever done and practically takes 15 min for both headlamps.
I did it on my own car and have used CANBUS ASIC ballasts from China and CNLight bulbs (I installed these around 2.5 years back) and they are working fine. Only one bulb had fused (due to a very heavy jerk in a pothole, which I replaced )

Be sure to get CANBUS compliant 4200K CCT HID units - you can buy Osram ones in DH7 4200K on Amazon.
https://www.amazon.in/Osram-HID-Conv...xpY2s9dHJ1ZQ==

The headlight units are really large and the ballast fits neatly inside the Headlight unit and it is safer this way as you don't have to make any holes in the rubber caps or headlight units. You also don't need to install the relay kit as it works fine with the existing headlight wiring. When installing, if the bulbs don't light up, change the polarity of the cables ( I noticed that that the +/- are interchanged in the Laura and initially when I connected the wires it did not light up and then I found out that the wire polarity was incorrect)

The whole headlight units are extremely easy to remove from the car (without removing the Bumper or any other part). Here is a video of how they are removed:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uLUr...el=NarcisDitiu

Two points of advice:
The Metal clip of the H7 bulb holder needs to be slightly modified to accommodate the H7 HID bulb and can be done easily.

Also, there is a small metal nub in the clip which should be straightened. This alllows the HID bulb to be put with the Ground wire in the 6 O clock position. This way you will not have any ground wire shadow in your low beam.
If you put the bulb in the standard position (Ground wire at 12 O clock position) , you will have a ground wire shadow.