[Maibaa]

Originally Posted by Behemoth

Great to know that the installation is quite simple and doesn't involve any cabling. The rubber caps on the headlight though must have been cut and a grommet installed to route the cables through it though?
Also with this setup how do you find the beam pattern and overall light level. As it is only for low beam is it worthwhile getting the upgrade in your opinion?

It made a world of difference once I moved to HIDs from the ineffective halogens. First in terms of spread, intensity and then in terms of cool factor due to the 4300K colour temperature.

Yes, the rubber caps had to be cut to route the cables and I guess I lost one of them too later :-( I was not aware of the slim ballasts when I got mine installed.

Even if it is for low beam I suggest it is worth the upgrade (considering the lack of upgrade options from the stock halogens).

[Maverick1977]

Originally Posted by Maibaa

It made a world of difference once I moved to HIDs from the ineffective halogens. First in terms of spread, intensity and then in terms of cool factor due to the 4300K colour temperature.

From what I recall, projector lenses for Halogen lights are supposed to be different from those used for HID's. Is this the case with Laura also, as the higher models (diesel) came with HID's? If the lenses are the same then I don't think there is any issue in upgrading to HID's and it should be fairly easy task.
Whilst discussing this with the Skoda ASS, they were of the opinion that replacing the stock halogens with HID's will give errors and might also lead to BCM conking off.
The stock halogens are just about ok in the city but on the highway I am forced to dive with the high beam at all times. I have been longing to upgrade the headlamps but the BCM module is worrying me.
Is there any particular brand that I should buy because I have seen many Chinese brands being sold at Milan Subway in Mumbai & they cost much less and also come with 1 year warranty.

[Maibaa]

Originally Posted by Maverick1977

From what I recall, projector lenses for Halogen lights are supposed to be different from those used for HID's. Is this the case with Laura also, as the higher models (diesel) came with HID's? If the lenses are the same then I don't think there is any issue in upgrading to HID's and it should be fairly easy task.

Honestly speaking I am not aware the lens is different for halogen v/s HID in the Laura. It is difficult to believe Skoda will have different lenses for halogen v/s HIDs given the cost factor involved to have different headlight assemblies for each variant.

Originally Posted by Maverick1977

Whilst discussing this with the Skoda ASS, they were of the opinion that replacing the stock halogens with HID's will give errors and might also lead to BCM conking off.

This might be true if you are going to fix HID directly without the CANBUS adaptor. However there is no error if you fit HIDs wit CANBUS adaptors like the one from OSRAM

Originally Posted by Maverick1977

Is there any particular brand that I should buy because I have seen many Chinese brands being sold at Milan Subway in Mumbai & they cost much less and also come with 1 year warranty.

I was offered unknown Chinese brands as well that had more power and a little cheaper than the OSRAMS. I went with the safe option of installing a known brand such as OSRAM.

[abhishek24x]

My 2011 TDi CR AT has done about 64k kms now and has developed a peculiar problem. At idle when the engine is cold, the car vibrates a lot. The vibration reduces drastically when the engine attains the optimum temp. (90°C). Is it the engine mountings or the flywheel? Has anyone encountered a similar problem with their Laura?

[Behemoth]

Originally Posted by abhishek24x

My 2011 TDi CR AT has done about 64k kms now and has developed a peculiar problem. At idle when the engine is cold, the car vibrates a lot. The vibration reduces drastically when the engine attains the optimum temp. (90°C). Is it the engine mountings or the flywheel? Has anyone encountered a similar problem with their Laura?

Mine also had a lot of vibration at idle and this was caused by a faulty DMF (Dual mass flywheel). The DMF and Clutch set had to be changed and costed around 105k total at the Skoda workshop. My Laura had covered only 46k kms in 5 years.

[pawan_pullarwar]

I recently bought used Skoda Laura L&K 2011 model. Luckily it was done just 12500 KMS. Car is like new, tyres were hardened and cracked, so put Michelin Primacy 3 ST. Also called TuneOTronics and bumped the power.

I have observed one strange issue, don't know if it's normal or some problem, when I park the car uphill, and after ignition, when I try to take it to D mode from Parking mode, the gear lever felt stuck in Parking mode, I had to pull it hard with Jerk in gear lever.

[antardaksh]

Originally Posted by pawan_pullarwar

I have observed one strange issue, don't know if it's normal or some problem, when I park the car uphill, and after ignition, when I try to take it to D mode from Parking mode, the gear lever felt stuck in Parking mode, I had to pull it hard with Jerk in gear lever.

Hi Pawan,

Please follow this sequence while parking

engage N> apply hand brake> shift to P

Regards.

[vignesh.cv]

Originally Posted by pawan_pullarwar

I recently bought used Skoda Laura L&K 2011 model. Luckily it was done just 12500 KMS. Car is like new, tyres were hardened and cracked, so put Michelin Primacy 3 ST. Also called TuneOTronics and bumped the power.

I have observed one strange issue, don't know if it's normal or some problem, when I park the car uphill, and after ignition, when I try to take it to D mode from Parking mode, the gear lever felt stuck in Parking mode, I had to pull it hard with Jerk in gear lever.

Attachment 1709426

Make sure to depress the brake pedal firmly before moving from P -> D else you’ll get that jerk you mentioned.

[Maverick1977]

Originally Posted by pawan_pullarwar

I recently bought used Skoda Laura L&K 2011 model...

Sorry for going off-topic, but I must admit that this is one of the best examples of the Laura that I have seen in quite some time. Since it is the L&K I assume this is the TDi.

Sad that Skoda never bothered to bring the TSi in the L&K trim. There are a lot of advantages that the L&K has over the Ambiente. I too acquired a 2012 TSi which had also seen just 26K on the odo. My only issue with the diesel was that it was not as mod friendly as the petrol. Just got a custom exhaust fitted and the car finally sounds like the way it should have.

[Maverick1977]

The slants of the rear AC vent in my Laura are broken. I ordered a replacement from Aliexpress but am unable to find any DIY videos on how to replace the same. If any one has done it here, please let me know the steps to do the same.

[MonsterPatrol]

Originally Posted by Maverick1977

The right rear wheel ABS sensor was the culprit which was causing the malfunction. However to avoid any issues I changed all the 4 sensors as recommended by the ASS. There are no issues in the last 24 hours & I even tested the ABS and Traction Control on an open isolated stretch of road and both worked as desired.
I have 1 more query. The car has done about 26XXX km and is still on the original set of tyres. The front tyres are showing signs of aging but the rear one's have life for at least another 10K km. The only issue is they are 2011 manufactured (but don't seem to have become hard) hence I am wondering if I should retain the rear tyres and change only the front 2 or change all 4.
Also if I buy 2 new tyres should they go in front or rear? I am asking this as I recently saw a video where they recommend always putting new tyres at the rear and NOT in the front. I was always under the impression that the front tyres need to be new as they handle much more stress due to turning.

I had the same issue as well when I was on the highway and miles away from any nearest Skoda service center. The abs light lit up along with the traction control and the speedometer needle started wobbling. Stopped the car and restarted it again and all the lights disappeared only to come back on a few minutes later. Kept driving slow and the brakes started making the grinding noise. I was sure pads were the culprit. Reached the nearest town, sourced the pads both front and back and replaced them with a local mechanic. Old ones were totally gone. Got all the abs sensors cleaned while doing so. The brakes are fine, but the abs light and traction control warning lights were still on. Thought have to get it scanned and delete the codes. But while driving back, suddenly the red brake light came on with a loud ping followed by EPC, the steering wheel warning light and the engine malfunction light. The power steering stopped working. Stopped the car and restarted it and all the lights went off except abs and traction and the power steering was working but after a few kms they came back on. Also the speedometer is dead while this is happening. I’ve temporarily parked the car at a friends place. Long way away from getting it checked with a Skoda service center. Can anyone suggest how do I go about fixing this issue?

[dodge]

I really do not think any OEM manufacturers can recommend any brand apart from giving strict instructions in the owners manual to follow SAE Grade, API Class and OEM Approval for a particular product of the brand. what oil you should select you have your own choice after confirming all these factors and doing a comparison on the product data sheets of deferent brands. do not fall for the marketing techniques of companies.

[Turbopetrol]

Originally Posted by pawan_pullarwar

I have observed one strange issue, don't know if it's normal or some problem, when I park the car uphill, and after ignition, when I try to take it to D mode from Parking mode, the gear lever felt stuck in Parking mode, I had to pull it hard with Jerk in gear lever.

On stopping the car, before slotting it to P mode, ensure that you apply hand brake. The sequence would be Apply brake to stop > Apply hand brake > Slot to P. If you don't follow this, the complete car weight would be on the parking pawl/pin (especially on inclines) which gets engaged by the P mode. This could lead to the breaking of parking pawl, which would then be a very expensive affair to service. So always ensure that the weight of the car is on hand brake while parking the car.

[smack_himanshu]

Today , I got my car serviced and after service I can speed in mph also in last line of mid. Don't know how it got activated.
Was wondering if there are options to display some other info also.

[anandpadhye]

Originally Posted by smack_himanshu

Today , I got my car serviced and after service I can speed in mph also in last line of mid. Don't know how it got activated.
Was wondering if there are options to display some other info also.

Use the button No. 5 to adjust this.You have to deactivate the second speed to get back the distance travelled.