Team-BHP - Skoda Laura: Problems & solutions thread

Symptoms:
Front driver door remote unlock does not open the door. Other doors work fine.
Locking using remote works.
When locked using remote, unlocking using interior unlock button does not open the door. Pulling the interior door lever twice does not open the door under this condition. Only the manual key opens the door.
However if locked using interior lock button , the front drivers door opens and locks correctly.
VCDS scan does show fault codes for the front driver door as below.
It looks to me like a connector problem to me and not an actuator or motor problem . Would appreciate any inputs from Laura owners. Have not checked the Skoda forums yet nor taken it to the dealer workshop. Haven't opened door panel and examined the connectors yet. Any help and pointers would be much appreciated. This started just after the second year warranty getting over and may be a coincidence just after the second service

VCDS Autoscan reports :

Address 09: Cent. Elect. (J519) Labels: 1K0-937-08x-09.clb
Part No SW: 1K0 937 087 D HW: 1K0 937 087 D
Component: BCM PQ35 H 103 0541
Revision: 00103 AE
Coding: 48180AB8B00508C04008008011000124010000AE422089605C 0440000000
Shop #: WSC 33361 790 00000
VCID: 326119466D34419

Subsystem 1 - Part No: 1Z2 955 119 C Labels: 1KX-955-119.CLB
Component: Wischer 11060 22 0601
Coding: 00D7B7

Subsystem 2 - Part No: 1K0 955 559 AH Labels: 1K0-955-559-AG.CLB
Component: RLS 250609 05 54 0402
Coding: 0730ED

1 Fault Found:
01038 - Central Locking Thermal Protection
000 - - - Intermittent
Freeze Frame:
Fault Status: 00100000
Fault Priority: 6
Fault Frequency: 2
Reset counter: 169
Mileage: 19179 km
Time Indication: 0
Date: 2026.14.20
Time: 10:52:35

Freeze Frame:
Term 15 Off
Voltage: 12.10 V
OFF
ON
Term 50 Off
OFF
OFF

Address 42: Door Elect, Driver Labels: 1K0-959-701-MIN3.lbl
Part No SW: 1T0 959 701 T HW: 1T0 959 701 T
Component: Tuer-SG 009 2114
Coding: 0000756
Shop #: WSC 33361 790 00000
VCID: 48955BAE3BA8DB9

1 Fault Found:
00928 - Locking Module for Central Locking; Front Driver Side (F220)
008 - Implausible Signal - Intermittent

Hey bhpians,

I am facing a problem in my 2007 Skoda Laura L&K AT suspension. The Skoda A.S.S. are quoting 60-65k to resolve the problem. I went to European Motor Works and they quoted me 34k for the work.
Parts list is as follows:
1. Lower Arm Bush Kit
2. Link Rods Front
3. Lower Ball Joint Front
4. L.H.S. Axle Boot

Bush kit and Axle boot replacement is fine because I saw the faulty parts but EMW people said link rods and ball joints get replaced on replacing arm bushes and I am not able to digest it, just want to confirm if it is really necessary because I can save around 15k if they are not required to be replaced. Please help.

Quote:

Originally Posted by Ravich (Post 2662363)

Not sure if I understood the problem correctly:
If you are inside the car and press the lock button on the remote, all 5 doors lock OK. Next, if you press unlock button on the remote, what happens? And if you press the unlock button on center console instead, what happens?

Quote:

Originally Posted by raichoudhury (Post 2679968)

Even I have the same problem. How to resolve the problem?

Looks like the Skoda experts have abandoned us to the mercy of the Chec Gods:)

Quote:

Originally Posted by anandpadhye (Post 2680591)

2008 Laura means the PD version?
How many kilometers done?

May be you can check engine mounts?

Hi all, in my case the car has done 60,000 Km. The interesting fact is that sometimes she starts very smoothly and sometimes she does not. Even in the mornings sometimes she starts very smoothly.

One of the electricians I had a chat with told me that there could be a problem with the starter motor. I in fact had my starter motor serviced last year before the installation of the new battery, however the problem persisted so I went for a battery change. I do not think that it is the engine mounts as the start shudder is not continuous, more likely from the starting system and its peripherals.

Another input was that it could be from the clutch, but as i mentioned earlier the problem had vanished on the installation of the new battery without any repairs to the clutch (thank God) and the problem has resurfaced now.By the way I have also checked the condition of the battery and it's fine. A fellow Laura owner had commented on a post that he has a Automatic Laura which had similar issues, I believe it was resolved by battery replacement.

I will consult my electrician once again later and try to find if any thing is wrong with the starter motor and its components

So Ciao for now and inputs please in the interim from fellow sufferers and also from those who have had their cars cured .Thanks

[quote=raichoudhury;2661057]I am not sure whether other Laura users face this problem or not, but my car's engine occasionally gets switched off while down shifting.

It is my experience that the low speed running of the Laura is not that great especially in the Second gear where the Skoda engineers have not done a great job, forcing you to down shift to the First gear unless you want to stall. Over the years probably you get used to it and I think the car also adapts, I am telling this because we have two Lauras one 2008 model and the other 2009. The 2008 model copes better at slower speeds better now than 2009 model with fewer stalls in the middle of the road.Whereas the third gear allows you a large margin with a very good adaptation to slow speeds making it easy to drive in the third.Fourth is equally good and naturally fifth gear requires sufficient RPM.

My impression (based on the gearing) is that it's a great car for highways, good in slow moving traffic and terrible in bumper to bumper traffic.

Quote:

Originally Posted by raichoudhury (Post 2679968)

Even I have the same problem. How to resolve the problem?

Looks like the Skoda experts have abandoned us to the mercy of the Chec Gods:)

hi, which model do you have?

also, do you have the feature to switch on headlights on during remote unlock locking of doors?

this feature does drain the battery, so if on please switch off, using the MID.
please check for reduced shuddering post this.

also, i hope you don't switch off the engine immediately post a long run, please try giving the engine one minute of idle, before a switch off.

ensure these two are done a few times and post back on the shuddering.
also please post battery make and model in use along with vehicle model.

cheers

1) Regarding shudder on start - continued with a mild vibration - felt on steering wheel.

Can be on account of requirement of flywheel replacement being due (if battery is fine). (It is a dual mass flywheel for the laura and hence more expensive.). The laura typically can require a flywheel replacement any time beween 30-65k kms in Indian driving conditions.

2) Thermal fault code on the Central locking - that can be due to a protection kicking in due to repeated locking and unlocking of the door through the remote or inside switch. They also have a door control module that can be fault and require replacement and this can also be due to loose contact in a connector.

Suggest you have a smart local garage guy check it out as the authorized guys will on most cases only replace the entire part directly.

Quote:

Originally Posted by ricky_1605 (Post 2667888)

Hi Ricky,

Yes, you will need to have all these components replaced together as they work as a set and replacing part of them, will lead to quick failure of the replaced parts. The suspension system has to work well together and all parts connected together have to be well aligned.
(I am an automobile engineer by education and also did work with an auto company earlier, though I am no longer in that field now!)
Suggest go for it with EMW - should be ok. Before installation, check the genuiness of the spare parts - they should have VW/ Skoda / Audi markings as the parts bin is common and the spares come marked with any of these.

Regards,
Behemoth

Quote:

Originally Posted by Swanand Inamdar (Post 2684180)

A new rattle has developed in my car. I know for sure, its the plastic ticket holder on the windshield thats rattling. One can easily see that its become loose.

I had to get my windshield changed in the past, and post that the rattle has started.
Any idea on how to curb this rattle?

Quote:

Originally Posted by .anshuman (Post 2684261)

^^ Remove the the A pillar cover and check if the ticket holder can be adjusted. If not, you can opt to remove the ticket holder(i have never used it). Don't fiddle with A pillar if you have L&K variant equipped with curtain Airbags.

There is a Clear Araldite solution available in the market. You could try to use just a teeny weeny bit between the glass and ticket holder and glue the 2 together. Since its a clear solution it won't look bad if done with steady hands.

since I don't want to post back to back, Is there anyone wanting to sell Skoda OEM alloys 5 spoke which came on the 2006/2007 Laura LnK model? Want to complete the 5th one on my spare wheel. I won't mind taking 2 also if so required as i have a friend who wants one too.

Quote:

Originally Posted by Swanand Inamdar (Post 2684180)

A new rattle has developed in my car. I know for sure, its the plastic ticket holder on the windshield thats rattling. One can easily see that its become loose.

This is so good to hear (I know it sounds odd), I thought I was the only one. Mine rattled, rattled, rattled and then finally came off. I have kept it in my bedroom drawer as a collectible - something that still works as new on the my friend's 2006 Octavia!

The build quaility of the face lifted Laura sucks!
It's only the engine that casts a spell...

So my advice: Just forget about it.

Cheers!

[quote=ACM;2681851]1) Regarding shudder on start - continued with a mild vibration - felt on steering wheel.

Thanks. I hope it is not the fly wheel. I am not sure whether i can locate any of the really smart electrical guys who knows about Laura. So what tell tale sign should I tell the local electrician to check in case it's the central locking issue.

As I mentioned earlier I had the similar problem which went away on replacement of batteries and that is why I pray that it's not a clutch problem.

By the way does any one know from where I can source a clutch plate and flywheel (I dont want to go to the authorised fellows as they will rip me off) and the cost of the same( in case my worst fears come true.)

Thanks