[mandyrana]

Originally Posted by lodhra

Hello friends.

I have 2 queries regarding my Tata Safari GX 2010

I am aslo facing Same problem of Driver side and Passenger side front power windows. Went 2 TASS 2 times , they clened them and sprayed anti rust liquid but after 5-6 days same problem re-surfaced

[DerAlte]

Found a solution to the pesky power-window mechanical failure problem. Driver-side power window failed a couple of weeks back, after the rear left one last year. Concorde never has such pieces ever in stock (or quite likely they go bad so often that the stock never gets replenished), and take their own sweet time ordering it. Each replacement costs ~4K.

Culprit? Jamming of window in the beading. The beading has a lining which stiffens over a period of time. This retards the window movement so much so that one of the floating cylindrical plastic bushes, which retain the cable outer (the inner pulls the winder mechanism up or down), breaks and the outer is not stayed any more. This produces slack in the inner, and the pulley keeps sliding without transferring force to the inner. Inner cable stays intact, and the motor revs OK, just that the mechanism becomes ineffective. Unless, that is, one applies force on the glass by hand, thereby pulling / pushing the inner tight against the pulley!!!

I found a guy near JC Road who replaces the bush and the cables (refurbishes the winder mechanism) for Rs. 800. He says the most common problem of failure is bush on one side only, and that is because the beading liner hardens causing excessive force on that bush when one closes the window. He sprayed the beading lining with WD40.

[sheelz]

Hi Guys

Just found out a probable cause for a problem in future. While washing my beast this morning I realized that is a lot of gap between the rubber lining and the window glass on all doors which was letting the water go inside the door. Now if this continues to happen, then it might lead to corrosion on the inner parts of the door.
Has anybody else seen this problem. Does it require a visit to TASS and replacement of rubber linings??

Cheers

[cool_dube]

Originally Posted by verditer

What I think is people who rev their Safaris hard and power through the gears usually have very less occurrence of this issue, whereas people who drive her softly and mostly under 2k rpm feel it much more... Just my view.

In other words, people who drive it like an SUV do not face this issue as opposed to people who drive it like a car

No offence but could not resist it!! I change gears at ~ 3K rpm and have not faced this issue till now.

[Rahulk76]

Originally Posted by cool_dube

In other words, people who drive it like an SUV do not face this issue as opposed to people who drive it like a car

No offence but could not resist it!! I change gears at ~ 3K rpm and have not faced this issue till now.

Beg to completely disagree on this

After returning from 6700km trip last month, the vehicle was idle for 10-15 days. Then it started jerks hiccups out of the blue, in 3 days of Pune city running.

Its is something else for sure. (all the points made above taken into account).

I have no clue as to what is causing it, but somehow feel that the turbo hose going into the intercooler (redpipe) may hold a clue.

TASS is incompetent in this area in Pune to even acknowledge it.

I recall someone was collecting the list of vehicles who exhibit this issue and drop a email.. any progress on it ?

[Abhiknov]

Had my first Flat after 2 years and 2 months. Rear right. Fortunately was in the parking lot of our housing complex so could easily park in one of the visitor parking bays. Nice clean level surface. The tyre for fully flat. Unpacked the jack out of the plastic for the first time and struggled for few minutes to pull free the really long arm for the jack.
Thats when i realised i problem. With the Tyre fully flat, the clear height under the spot where the jack should go was much lesser than the fully retracted jack!
it was nearly 2 inches longer. Scratched my head for a few minuites, looked around for an alternate place to put the jack, but there was none.
Finally had to put a brick in the rear, backed up a little so that the flat tyre climbs the brick, to get the height.
This is what the tyre looked like when it came off due to the brick. Came back to its shape only after the puncture repair.
Has anyone else faced this problem, or have i lost a lot of ground clearance over these two years?

[Kairalee]

Originally Posted by Abhiknov

. With the Tyre fully flat, the clear height under the spot where the jack should go was much lesser than the fully retracted jack!
Has anyone else faced this problem, or have i lost a lot of ground clearance over these two years?

This is an inherent problem with the Safari. Nothing to do with the GC.

The solution?

A mini trolley jack like the one shown below (In Bangalore the Metro store has it).

I think it costs around Rs.1800/-



BTW, was it difficult to hoist the punctured tyre back onto the spare wheel location?
.

[SS-Traveller]

Originally Posted by Abhiknov

...the clear height under the spot where the jack should go was much lesser than the fully retracted jack!

You could have tried inserting the jack under the axle tube, placing it more towards the centre.

In the meanwhile, you've been spotted and researched, over here. Please respond and put people's worries about the MMS (mystery maroon Safari ) to rest.

[Abhiknov]

Originally Posted by Kairalee

T

BTW, was it difficult to hoist the punctured tyre back onto the spare wheel location?
.

Very! Hauling it till there was still okay. But getting the holes and the studs to align punctured me aswell. By the time i was done i was all dirty and sweaty.
Went back home took a bath again! adventurous start to the day!

[sumannandy]

The pump head was changed yesterday.

The engine is extremely rough. It is sounding like a truck engine. There is also a starting problem. Earlier it used to start within 1 crank, regardless of outside temperature. Now I have to crank for a couple of times.

According to the service advisor, since it is a new pump head, there is a pressure difference. It would take a couple of days drive to settle it. Else, we would have to clean the injectors.

Is this normal?

[mercedised]

Originally Posted by sumannandy

The pump head was changed yesterday.

The engine is extremely rough. It is sounding like a truck engine. There is also a starting problem. Earlier it used to start within 1 crank, regardless of outside temperature. Now I have to crank for a couple of times.

According to the service advisor, since it is a new pump head, there is a pressure difference. It would take a couple of days drive to settle it. Else, we would have to clean the injectors.

Is this normal?

Similar thing happened with my Indica, I have to get the injectors cleaned. Although the problem still keeps but can be neglected now. Probably the pump setting is wrong in your case.

[sunishsamuel]

I have been complaining multiple times that rpm fluctuates when the car is idle, and sometimes feels power loss while accelerating but after some time settles in. There were no ECU errors or issues with the pump per TASS, they replied same way atleast three times. But fourth time, they acknowledged a problem and now says either injectors are faulty or the pump itself. They are telling they are unable to pull out the injectors from my car to check.

I am waiting for an update from them. I never used bad fuel (atleast i think so, by filling from reputed pumps only) and twice TASS used bardahl additive so i am unsure what caused the problem. TASS assures that whatever the fault may be, they would have that rectified and replaced under warranty.

Also noticed heavy oil leak, most of it was covered up by the engine guard under the body but looks it could not handle more, so my garage is full of oil, seems the tube that provides lubrication to turbo gone again (this is the second time issue happening) Did not drive the car at all after noticing this problem so hope no issues.

I am getting really worried about the reliability after 2 years and 71k kms.

[SS-Traveller]

Originally Posted by Abhiknov

Very! Hauling it till there was still okay. But getting the holes and the studs to align punctured me aswell. By the time i was done i was all dirty and sweaty.

Incidentally, why did you put the spare back onto the door mount, when you have had to take it down again to fix the puncture? In a similar situation I'd have just dumped the punctured tyre into the luggage space and driven to a puncture repair shop - where the shop fellows would have done the hard work of lifting the spare tyre onto its mount.

Lifting that tyre single-handedly onto the door mount is a great way to quickly get a slipped disc and/or a very painfully sprained back!

[CRDIsamir]

Dear SumanNandy,

If your Safari is not having starting trouble theres no point in replacing the pump head. You merely require the pump to be re calibrated by putting in all the rubber parts and oil seals. It should not be a costly affair and the total cost should be around Rs2500-Rs3000.
It does happen sometimes that the diesel leaks only at a particular temperature and not all the time.
I presume your Safari is non-DICOR and the pump you are using is MICO-Bosch.
Ifits a Lucas pump then the expeses would be around Rs3000/-

Dear Suman & Mercidized

If you have recalibrated the pump have the injectors pressure reset. Set the pressure to 130kg/cm2.
If theres excess knocking then please ask the mechanic who has fit the pump to check the pump to engine timing.

Again I presume your engines to be Non-DICOR.
Please let me know if you require more assistance

Dear SUNISHSAMUEL

If your vehicle is under warranty then have the injectors checked as early as possible. Firstly they are costly to repair.
Secondly the TASS ppl are correct. The DICOR injector get jammed inside the head and are difficult to remove and sometimes break while removing. Hence I am telling you if your vehicle is under warranty ask them to remove the injectors.

If TASS have checked for the ECU errors and have not found any then probably the injectors may be having excess back leakage. Tell the TASS to perform a static test on injectors to check the backleakage. That should give you a direction.

[Abhiknov]

Originally Posted by SS-Traveller

Incidentally, why did you put the spare back onto the door mount, when you have had to take it down again to fix the puncture? In a similar situation I'd have just dumped the punctured tyre into the luggage space and driven to a puncture repair shop - where the shop fellows would have done the hard work of lifting the spare tyre onto its mount.

Lifting that tyre single-handedly onto the door mount is a great way to quickly get a slipped disc and/or a very painfully sprained back!

Boot was full with stuff already!