[lodhra]

Originally Posted by SumitB

lodhra, this should do it. I am sure you're going to hear from TML very soon and I presume the TASC will call you even before TML calls.

you were so right

after i sent the mail, i did not get any response so i thought here we go again "TATA"

today morning guess what

dealer workshop calls up and ask me the problem. I tell them and they agree to give me appointment next day early morning asap

I guess TATA is really trying to improve their services

thanks a ton sumit

[SumitB]

Originally Posted by lodhra

you were so right

after i sent the mail, i did not get any response so i thought here we go again "TATA"

today morning guess what

dealer workshop calls up and ask me the problem. I tell them and they agree to give me appointment next day early morning asap

I guess TATA is really trying to improve their services

thanks a ton sumit

Running to mummy always works! This hold true especially in case of TASC.

[bj96]

Originally Posted by amitk26

...filled till the max that is till the middle line else it may leak when it gets hot...

Any liquid when hot will expand many times than its volume at room temperature. Coolant goes up to ~80-90 deg C. If you fill more than required coolant, there is a "overflow drain" mechanism in the tank at the top, excess will overflow when hot. No issues with that. If you fill more, you are just wasting your money. It does not affect the working of the coolant lines, engine etc.

Your coolant pipe/hose can become loose also due to high pressure wash of engine bay, when they direct water jet carelessly on to these fittings. Or, it may be a general "rubber fatigue" due to aging and constant vibration from diesel engine etc.

I would not loose sleep over it. As a habit (carried from Bullet), I open hoods of both my cars once in a while (when engine is cold) and try to "feel/touch" all joints, rubber hoses, nuts, clips, inspect fluid levels etc. This practice has helped me a lot and I have saved myself from loosing clips, plastic studs under engine bonnet, clogged air/rain vents under wind-shield, wiper fluid tank running dry etc etc.

-BJ

[sumannandy]

Originally Posted by n.devdath

Both 4H and 4L cannot function at the same time. The lights can though.
So, if you can feel the difference when driving between 2wd, 4H and 4L when you engage them, it is an electrical malfunction and can be rectified. Else, the transfer case needs to be examined. Also, when you disengage the 4WD in any mode, you would be able to hear the hubs unlocking. Does this happen?

But please beware that there are not too many experts on the BW transfer case and its mechanicals used.

OT: What is this Green Park and what do they do?

I also think this is an electrical problem. When I engage 4wd and disengage it, the lights go off.The 4wd seems to be working fine.

I never heard of any clicking sound even in the past, may be because I always drive with windows rolled up and AC on.

Lack of competent mechanic is a problem with 4wd troubleshooting. I think Concorde has competent mechanics but then if I give the car to them they might come up with some other issues which are not required to be attended to.

Green Track is an authorized workshop near silk board. I gave the car for general checkup to them. They charged 250 instead of 400 at TASS, and then they also 'opened' the idler arms and greased it properly. I don't remember that work done at any TASS when I gave the car for general checkup.

[tsk1979]

The white tank is the coolant "overflow" tank. Majority of the coolant stays in the radiator.
Normally, when vehicle is cold and resting, the level will be near min. while running it will come to near max.

[amitk26]

Originally Posted by tsk1979

The white tank is the coolant "overflow" tank. Majority of the coolant stays in the radiator.
Normally, when vehicle is cold and resting, the level will be near min. while running it will come to near max.

Yes there are 3 marks in the tank min , max and "max while refilling" , Do you know what for the 3ed mark is ?

Originally Posted by bj96

A If you fill more than required coolant, there is a "overflow drain" mechanism in the tank at the top, excess will overflow when hot. No issues with that. If you fill more, you are just wasting your money. It does not affect the working of the coolant lines, engine etc.

yes your explanation is logical. I was not able to understand what mechanic is trying to say fully due to language gap.

Originally Posted by bj96

Your coolant pipe/hose can become loose also due to high pressure wash of engine bay, when they direct water jet carelessly on to these fittings. Or, it may be a general "rubber fatigue" due to aging and constant vibration from diesel engine etc.

Yes I feel better hose clamp with nut and bolt could have helped and it does not increase cost much. Only probably assembly time will increase. If I would have found correct size clamp then it would have increased robustness.

Originally Posted by bj96

I would not loose sleep over it. As a habit (carried from Bullet), I open hoods of both my cars once in a while (when engine is cold) and try to "feel/touch" all joints, rubber hoses, nuts, clips, inspect fluid levels etc.
-BJ

Good practice I will follow this more regularly in fact that's how I found that there is a leak at right time.

[suman]

Originally Posted by n.devdath

Also, when you disengage the 4WD in any mode, you would be able to hear the hubs unlocking. Does this happen?

Originally Posted by sumannandy

I never heard of any clicking sound even in the past, may be because I always drive with windows rolled up and AC on.

The hubs do not disengage merely by flicking the switch back to 2wd, you have to drive a few metres in reverse (assuming you were going forward in 4wd mode) for it to happen.

[bj96]

Originally Posted by tsk1979

The white tank is the coolant "overflow" tank... while running it will come to near max.

Correct. There is another "drain outlet" at the top (in cap) of this white "overflow" tank. This is to take care of our generous mechanics who invariably pour more coolant than needed at the cost of our wallet!

Originally Posted by suman

The hubs do not disengage merely by flicking the switch back to 2wd, you have to drive a few metres in reverse (assuming you were going forward in 4wd mode) for it to happen.

+1. This is the first thing I noticed in the owners manual on 4x4 driving page. Here, is the excerpt from manual :



-BJ

[sbhaduri]

Hi Guys,

It seems my Safari too wants to follow on the footsteps of Tanvir's Safari.
It has made several rounds to workshop in the last 10 months of ownership to solve the following 2 issues in addition to other niggles, TML technical team along with Delphi people have checked several times but are unable to diagnose the issue inspite of the recurrent DTC (Defect Code) shown by the ECM.I had exercised patience for 9-10 months but now feel i have had enough of it.

1) Erratic and unstable engine rpm at long idle while standing at a traffic signal.Happens both with AC on and AC off condition.

2)Engine shuts abruptly while on the run with the service light blinking.Upon putting off the ignition key and restarting the car starts and behaves normally.Due to this abrupt engine shutdown while driving i have had avoided some major head on collisions and accidents.

The car has been checked a couple of times by TML engineers and Delphi engineers but have given a clean chit everytime.Though they are at a loss to explain the presence of the DTC code in the ECM everytime the car shuts down.They are also not ready to share the DTC code but are telling its the same code coming up every time.I have finally left the car at the workshop and demanded a new car from TML.I have also put up my complaints to all top most personnels at TML, though no senior person has replied still.

Safari Guru's help requested.



Shantanu

[tsk1979]

Hi Shantanu,
What all they have changed or tried changing. Did they change fuel pump/common rail etc.,
Another problem could be some "earthing" issue.
Normally in hard to debug cases they do the following
1. ECU and wiring harness change
2. Fuel pump change
3. Injector change
4. Common rail etc., change

[sumannandy]

Originally Posted by suman

The hubs do not disengage merely by flicking the switch back to 2wd, you have to drive a few metres in reverse (assuming you were going forward in 4wd mode) for it to happen.

Originally Posted by bj96

+1. This is the first thing I noticed in the owners manual on 4x4 driving page. Here, is the excerpt from manual :



-BJ

Yes, I always follow that.

The power steering hose came off on its own (after a pressure wash at Green Tracks, not sure if there was any relation though). Car is in the service center :(. It will take two days for the parts to arrive from Pune.

[sumannandy]

I would like to know how many rubber hoses are there. With age, I think it is better to change all the hoses.

I have already changed all the belts last year as a preventive maintenance.

I asked the mechanics at the service center but I would trust on the advice here more than what they would say.

[dadu]

Originally Posted by sbhaduri

1) Erratic and unstable engine rpm at long idle while standing at a traffic signal.Happens both with AC on and AC off condition.

2)Engine shuts abruptly while on the run with the service light blinking.Upon putting off the ignition key and restarting the car starts and behaves normally.Due to this abrupt engine shutdown while driving i have had avoided some major head on collisions and accidents.

As Tanveer mentioned a detail of what all has been changed would help. The OBD code would have helped too.

But the erratic and unstable RPM with Abrupt shutdown points first to the Fuel pump (not per se, but sometimes the related sensors malfunction) and then to the electrical system. Ask them to change the Fuel pump first and then the Harness should be changed(if not resolved) along with a check on the earthing and alternator. Also get the Diagnostic code next time, the SA will tell you that(if Delphi doesnt).

Originally Posted by sumannandy

I would like to know how many rubber hoses are there. With age, I think it is better to change all the hoses.

I have already changed all the belts last year as a preventive maintenance.

I asked the mechanics at the service center but I would trust on the advice here more than what they would say.

Dont fix it, If it ain't broke.

[sumannandy]

The problem is, the hoses stop working all of a sudden without any warning.

Last year I was stranded at airport as the engine oil hose leaked.

Today all of a sudden the power steering hose started leaking. The car was at the workshop when this happened after a regular wash.

I would definitely like to save money by not changing something which is not required. But then I do a lot of highway drives, and it is not a good idea to get stranded on a highway for a faulty hose. So I was wondering if changing few hoses for a couple of thousand of rupees could make the car more 'reliable'.

[mercedised]

Originally Posted by sumannandy

The problem is, the hoses stop working all of a sudden without any warning.

Last year I was stranded at airport as the engine oil hose leaked.

Today all of a sudden the power steering hose started leaking. The car was at the workshop when this happened after a regular wash.

I would definitely like to save money by not changing something which is not required. But then I do a lot of highway drives, and it is not a good idea to get stranded on a highway for a faulty hose. So I was wondering if changing few hoses for a couple of thousand of rupees could make the car more 'reliable'.

I have changed timing belt twice and other belts also once. There is really no need for changing them unnecessarily. And about the hose leakages, check the clamps they tend to get loose and hence the leak.