[rajismine]

Hi Srini,

from TASS you have to buy a kit only and it will cost you approx 3K and its heated only in EX and VX model I guess,

The mirror is available outside, at least in Hyderabad for Rs400

I recently broke my RHS mirror and a mechanic bought it for me for Rs 400,

However two things to notice:

1.) Its a little smaller, at lease 2-3mm from circumference all sides
2.) Its a rather flat mirror with "Objects in mirror are same distance as they appear"
remember the OEM kit is a little curved and says "objects in mirror are closer than they appear"

Do let me know if you dont find it in Bangalore and I will try to arrange one for you from Hyderabad

Rajeev

[anupmathur]

Originally Posted by rajismine

...
2.) Its a rather flat mirror with "Objects in mirror are same distance as they appear"
remember the OEM kit is a little curved and says "objects in mirror are closer than they appear"
...

Hehe, in this kind of situation the Italian maxim is the best: "What is behind me does not matter"!!!

[Prowler]

@bantejas:

1. I see some steam coming out of the vent.
2. After an hr or so, the blower makes weird noise and fan speed reduces drastically. I think that it's the motor which is probably getting heated and so i need to stop it for around 20 mins to cool it down after which it resumes it's original speed.
Has anyone encountered these issues?

Yes. I used to get the same problem in my earlier Safari TCIC. The white cold vapor coming out and the blower stopping indicated a faulty blower motor in my case too. But even after replacing the motor, the problem persisted. Finally they serviced the evaporator and the problem vanished.

@abbey4u: It is easy to check which external equipment is drawing the power. Quiescent current (normal current an Amp or stereo draws when silent) should be less than 250 mA. Check this with a multimeter. In high powered car amplifiers, usually the output devices fail drastically as they have enormous availability of current. So when in doubt fit a lower fuse than they have normally. A blown fuse under no load indicates a fault.

[Bose]

Gents,
Has anyone done the Sigur Ghat route to Ooty on a 2.2 recently? 36 bends. Need to know how the truck responds and if I have to be careful of a few things.
We are going to Ooty this weekend.
Last time I did it with my Honda City and realized that thrust/weight ratio is a big factor. The climb was a bit of a struggle.
But I am not sure how much advantage a rear-wheel drive will add.
The Ghats that I faced to and fro to Goa were a breeze with the truck though. The incline however was a max of 20 degrees.

[tsk1979]

I also need a mirror. The flat one is useless, and not heated. It costs 100rs here.
I will be visting Jama masjid scrap market.
In Ludhiana, I found one intact mirror assembly for 700rs, but it was LHS. I needed RHS

Be aware that heated assembly has 4 wires, and non heated has 3 wires.

[Prowler]

@Bose: Don't worry about the power of your Safari. It has plenty of torque to make a short work of any steep incline. But worry about the size. When I was in ooty last time, I had to negotiate narrow roads near upper Ooty Kaandal. It is scary to see an oncoming vehicle and you have to look for jostling space to let the other vehicle pass. Safari's turning radius also doesn't help the cause in a narrow road.

Give a broad road, your Safari will make conquer anything.

[NiTviN]

Originally Posted by Prowler

@Bose: Don't worry about the power of your Safari. It has plenty of torque to make a short work of any steep incline. But worry about the size. ...

+1

Try to keep distance from any vehicle ahead. Most of them slow down too much and you will lose your torque. When I went there, I never faced any problems with the pull of negotiating curves, but as soon as I negotiate a curve, I will find a very slow vehicle ahead and i had to slow down my Safari, and then it will start struggling.

[amitk26]

Originally Posted by Bose

Gents,
Has anyone done the Sigur Ghat route to Ooty on a 2.2 recently? 36 bends. Need to know how the truck responds and if I have to be careful of a few thing.

Yes it is OK and pretty easy to do , Only thing there is a big stretch of road towards upper reach without any curves which is actually very steep but gives and optical illusion of being flat , maintain 1st gear here and don't break momentum.
Also be careful of inexperienced drivers coming down on the curves.

Originally Posted by tsk1979

I also need a mirror. The flat one is useless, and not heated. It costs 100rs here.
I will be visting Jama masjid scrap market.
In Ludhiana, I found one intact mirror assembly for 700rs, but it was LHS. I needed RHS

You should have purchased it for future if you ever need LHS

[SPEEDY_RACER]

Hi Friends,

one of my friend has a 2006 2.2 Dicor, he is facing a strange problem with his beast, if the vehicle is driven in Highways or non traffic roads its fine.

but if he drives the car in the Huge city traffic the Check engine Light glows, and then he has to switch off the engine and then restart- the light vanishes and if the traffic is huge it will again come after 1 hour.

any idea what might be the problem.

[dadu]

Originally Posted by SPEEDY_RACER

Hi Friends,

one of my friend has a 2006 2.2 Dicor, he is facing a strange problem with his beast, if the vehicle is driven in Highways or non traffic roads its fine.

but if he drives the car in the Huge city traffic the Check engine Light glows, and then he has to switch off the engine and then restart- the light vanishes and if the traffic is huge it will again come after 1 hour.

any idea what might be the problem.

2.2l, DICOR was launched in Oct 2007. He cannot possibly have a 2.2l.

Get the ECU code checked in TASS, it will give some clue.

[SPEEDY_RACER]

Originally Posted by dadu

2.2l, DICOR was launched in Oct 2007. He cannot possibly have a 2.2l.

Get the ECU code checked in TASS, it will give some clue.

hey may be TYPO mistake. but it is a dicor. and i dont have the details on that.

since he called me yesterday to congratulate on my Used Safari 3.0 acquistion. and he was telling the problem,

he will take the Vehicle to TASS tommorow.

[jkdas]

How much would a full suspension overhaul do? For front and for rear; can I have the split?

I guess I wont have to change shock absorbers, just bushes and lot.

[abbey4u]

Okay, I did a couple of test today using multimeter. Set the multimeter to a 20 volt scale

Voltage drop test: Connected meter to alternator output and battery +ve terminal. It was giving me a reading of 0.05. Is this acceptable for a 20 volt scale?

Voltage Load: while engine off. Checked the battery voltage. Reading was 12.76
Now when engine running idle at 1200 rpm. reading was 13.76. This time there was no load, no stereo or Ac etc

Now did a full load, (stereo, amp, Ac headlight), reading was 13.59. So the voltage dropped. To identify which is circuit is dropping the voltage reading, I started switching off (stereo, AMP, AC, Headlight) and found that it was AC which is dropping the voltage.

Is it acceptable drop? Is AC the culprit? Please suggest. Am i doing the test properly?

I guess the next test to identify the current produced by Alternator and it getting consumed by stereo etc. But I am not really sure how to do that except to see of for any blown fuses. (I don't have any fuses blown while all this is happening to me)

[Prowler]

abbey4u: AC consumes lot of current. Perfectly acceptable. Under idling, this may seem excessive, but under normal road speeds, the alternator produces adequate energy to compensate for the load of AC.

Your Voltage readings don't show us much details without knowing the resistance across it. And your voltage readings of the battery when charging seems normal.

You can't check the output current of the alternator with ordinary multi meters. Your alternator ( I will have to check the manual for the capacity of the alternator fitted in Safari) will pump out plenty of current to blow your meter to kingdom come under full throttle. So don't even think of connecting your ammeter across the battery or the alternator.

Proceed as follows: Your stereo will be supplied through a fuse. Remove the fuse and connect the ammeter carefully - setting the range to at least 10 A in the meter. Don't switch on the Stereo yet. Work your range down in the meter now until you see the quiescent current clearly. It should be around 250 mA or less. if it draws around this level, it is not the culprit. Check other accessories one by one the same way.

[bj96]

Originally Posted by Prowler

You can't check the output current of the alternator with ordinary multi meters. ... will pump out plenty of current to blow your meter

try some magnetic clamp meters, something like this

eBay India: DIGITAL CLAMP METER (item 270595864873 end time 24-Jun-2010 15:53:00 IST).

or

http://www.amazon.com/Sinometer-Manu.../dp/B000LY4UBA

You do not need to connect this in series with circuit.

-BJ