[cool_dube]

Originally Posted by Rahulk76

What are the major factors which cause Engine Noise and Vibrations to seep into Safari's cabin. to the point that one has to talk aloud ?

Originally Posted by jkdas

when you strain the engine this might happen.

In general, cabin insulation in a Safari is not all that great! Cabin of my previously owned Bolero was much quieter Not only does the outside noise (traffic, horns, etc) seep in but also the wind noise around/above 100 kmph is on the higher side.

[dkamath]

Originally Posted by cool_dube

Not only does the outside noise (traffic, horns, etc) seep in but also the wind noise around/above 100 kmph is on the higher side.

Haven't sat in many cars/UV's, but don't think any of them had this "vacuum effect" to insulate outside noise. I guess there's a solution available in this thread, or another one, to the wind noise. That is by padding rubber.

[Rahulk76]

Originally Posted by cool_dube

In general, cabin insulation in a Safari is not all that great! Cabin of my previously owned Bolero was much quieter Not only does the outside noise (traffic, horns, etc) seep in but also the wind noise around/above 100 kmph is on the higher side.

Ahh..phinally found a solution to the vibrations seeping into cabin.

The exhaust pipe touching the cross member of the chassis. What a lame design TML has made. The rubber hanger gets loose over time and then the pipe starts touching the chassis, therefore leading to vibs seeping into cabin as revs build up and as well as the startup krrrrrrr khat sound and while switching off khrr khat sound when the engine twitches.

The RamBaan by TASS was to heatup the pipe and bend it permanently just enough to have 2-3 cms. gap of the pipe from chassis cross member.

NOTE: this is the runs pipe is beneath the gearbox and then patches up with the muffler.

[HappyWheels]

Rahul:

Possible for a photo of the spot mentioned?

[dadu]

Originally Posted by Rahulk76

Ahh..phinally found a solution to the vibrations seeping into cabin.

The exhaust pipe touching the cross member of the chassis. What a lame design TML has made. The rubber hanger gets loose over time and then the pipe starts touching the chassis, therefore leading to vibs seeping into cabin as revs build up and as well as the startup krrrrrrr khat sound and while switching off khrr khat sound when the engine twitches.

The RamBaan by TASS was to heatup the pipe and bend it permanently just enough to have 2-3 cms. gap of the pipe from chassis cross member.

NOTE: this is the runs pipe is beneath the gearbox and then patches up with the muffler.

I know what you are talking about, when I saw it first, I thought this is so hidden beneath that if it cracks noone will know. Alternativelty, a small Iron spring hanger could have also worked.

[Rahulk76]

Originally Posted by dadu

I know what you are talking about, when I saw it first, I thought this is so hidden beneath that if it cracks noone will know. Alternativelty, a small Iron spring hanger could have also worked.

I didnt suggest this to TASS on purpose. I purposefully let them solve as per their knowledge and not my gyan.

Anyways if it does go haywire after a few thousand kilometers, I will insist on a new pipe under warranty anyways, so TML & TASS have no escape to blame me for ideas . However, if something does happen, then aapka idea of IRONSPRING HANGER would go in, and would make sure to get it properly powder coated as well. Now all the twisties and turns etc would stress the bent portion for sure, but to what stress tolerance the heated bent portion would bear is not known to me.

Having said that, its a design issue, which I believe should be taken up by ERC@TML.

Originally Posted by Rahulk76

I didnt suggest this to TASS on purpose. I purposefully let them solve as per their knowledge and not my gyan.

Anyways if it does go haywire after a few thousand kilometers, I will insist on a new pipe under warranty anyways, so TML & TASS have no escape to blame me for ideas . However, if something does happen, then aapka idea of IRONSPRING HANGER would go in, and would make sure to get it properly powder coated as well. Now all the twisties and turns etc would stress the bent portion for sure, but to what stress tolerance the heated bent portion would bear is not known to me.

Having said that, its a design issue, which I believe should be taken up by ERC@TML.

Side View. Encircled pic is the area which was heated to bend


Notice the gap between cross member and the exhaust pipe.

[NiTviN]

Safari tech gurus I need some help to identify a recent problem with my Safari.

Instance 1: I had not used my Safari for about 8 days. Could not start. The internal electricals were working though. Started using a Jump cable with my other car.

Went to TASS since my 4th service was due and got battery, dynamo etc checked. They said everything is fine. Since this is a diesel vehicle it drains the battery fast... But I still think in 8-10 days it should not drain the battery.

Instance 2: I was on my way to ooty last weekend and drove about 50 KM and stopped near channapattana. After 10 mins when i try to start the vehicle it wouldnt. I opened the bonnet and tried to see whether there was any loose connection, near the battery and the fuse box etc... still did not start. After about 5 mins wait, switched off all electricals (radio, fan etc) and tried again. With a lot of effort it started... sigh.... Drove it directly to Mandya TASS (URS motors). During this time I also observed that audio will automatically switch off and on. Once i switched it off, again did not start. The service guy tried his luck and after a long time was able to start it. He also checked the battery voltage using a multimeter and it was showing 12.8 V something. So battery was charged. We took for a test drive and it was fine. I continued my journey to ooty without any problem but during the last 10 KMs the problem appeared again. As you all may know the last few KMs is a steep uphill drive and i was almost driving in 1st or 2nd gear. I had AC, Radio, Headlights and Mobile charger on. Suddenly the radio on and off problem started and at the same time headlights would dim for an instant. I switched off AC, Radio, Mobile charger etc and finally reached the hotel. Kept the safari idling for 15 mins for battery to charge. Returned back to Bangalore on sunday. No problems while returning though.

Now this is the story so far. I am planning to take it to TASS again, but not sure whether they will really find out anything. All of them have the same story... Safari is fully automatic and we cant find out anything blah blah.... Have any of you faced similar problem? Can someone suggest what could be the problem?

[amitk26]

Originally Posted by NiTviN

Safari tech gurus I need some help to identify a recent problem with my Safari.

Instance 1: I had not used my Safari for about 8 days. Could not start. The internal electricals were working though. Started using a Jump cable with my other car.

Went to TASS since my 4th service was due and got battery, dynamo etc checked. They said everything is fine. Since this is a diesel vehicle it drains the battery fast... But I still think in 8-10 days it should not drain the battery.

Damn lies battery does not drain like that I was away from my safari for more then a month several times and it starts well everytime I return home, the problem in your Safari is really simple please read on.

Originally Posted by NiTviN

Suddenly the radio on and off problem started and at the same time headlights would dim for an instant. I switched off AC, Radio, Mobile charger etc and finally reached the hotel. Kept the safari idling for 15 ... Have any of you faced similar problem? Can someone suggest what could be the problem?

They will never be able to reproduce this , To me it looks like loose / dirty battery terminal , This kind of issue is reported several times on this thread including once by yours truly.

Ask them to clean the battery terminals and tighten the nut.

You can do a DIY as well use a 12 no spanner open the nuts of battery terminal and scrap all the surfaces with emery paper then tighten the terminal nuts after this apply white petrolium jelly and observe for next few days if the problem ever returns.

[bj96]

Originally Posted by amitk26

Damn lies battery does not drain like that... looks like loose / dirty battery terminal...clean the battery terminals and tighten the nut

+1.

Remember, any oxide/corrosion/loose contact on battery terminals will drop the voltage by several counts, which will lead to less current flow and hence the starter motor will fail to do its business. I suspect loose contact as your DC artifacts (e.g. radio, headlight etc) malfunction at times.

In addition to what Amit says do the following yourself. At least make an attempt to know, what is DIY-able and what is not. It does not harm + you will come closer to your safari and know her better. Invest in a good spanner set and buy a digital multimeter- all these will not cost you more than the diesel you burn on so many visits to the TASS.

1. Remove the main wire leads from battery and scrape the terminals
2. Apply vaseline on terminals
3. Fix back the leads and tighten the nuts
4. Follow the ground wire (black) from battery to chassis/body and remove any corrosion at the joint with the body.
5. Check the main fuse (I think 70amp or so) in the fuse box and see if that is properly seated. Check other fuses too.

It should solve your issue. I think, being the member of T-bhp, its our natural obligation () to perform first-aid ourselves than running to the clinic every time.

Cheers,
-BJ

[HappyWheels]

Last two days I noticed that the back fog lamp turns on when I switch on the front fog lamps. Anyone else has faced this?

I tried switching off the back fog lamp, but it wouldn't. But couple of on/off cycle of the front fog lamp, the back ones do not switch on.

Any leads, anyone?

[jaysmokesleaves]

Guys, I need help with Safari tires. I have posted my findings here:
http://www.team-bhp.com/forum/tyre-a...-tyres-24.html

[NiTviN]

Thanks amitk26 and bj96.

I completely missed out this angle. May be the reason is, there was no visible oxidation and in the last service the terminals were greesed/oiled. I will remove the terminals and clean them myself.

In fact another very good option of cleaning the terminals of oxidation and resudues is to make a paste of baking soda and apply it using a tooth brush. The oxidation gets completely dissolved and the terminals become completely clean. I have done it myself on my other car.

[amitk26]

Originally Posted by NiTviN

Thanks amitk26 and bj96.

I completely missed out this angle. May be the reason is, there was no visible oxidation and in the last service the terminals were greesed/oiled. I will remove the terminals and clean them myself.

Use a spanner to tighten the nut after cleaning , In my case the terminal was cleaned by A.S.S but nut was left loose creating tiny sparking on each crank thus oxide layer I guess was formed again, I saw this when I opened the bonnet in dark.

The baking soda tip is good.

[tsk1979]

I do not think battery terminals are the problem. Even if you disconnect the battery on a running engine, it will work. Alternator provides enough juice to keep her running, along with radio lights and such.
In your case there could be 2 problems
1. wiring harness - this is a tricky one. Lots of safaris have had this issue. Its more like a luck thing. 2. Alternator issue - Faulty alternator can cause this problem. I think 12.8V on engine idle with no headlights is too low, it should be 13+. So the regulator can be an issue.

Get it inspected from cometent TASS, or write to customer care telling them that the workshop is telling you since its an automatic ECU controlled engine they can't do anything. Customer care guys will guide you to a different workshop, or guide you to the Dealer Expert in the current workshop.

[Alter_Ego]

SOS Safari Experts,

I am facing a strange problem.
My safari starts up immediately on cranking the engine and I face no issues whatsoever.But then when I press the accelerator pedal there is no response.The rpm needle stays idle and it seems as though the accelerator is not connected to anything.Its just presses and pops back.
This problem stays for some 30 to 50 seconds and then suddenly the accelerator starts responding.

This problem comes after keeping the vehicle parked for at least 6 hours.I have to wait for a minute of so before the accelerator starts doing what it is meant to do.Till that it acts like a dummy pedal.

I am facing this issue quite frequently nowadays.

Planning to get my safari serviced this weekend from Concorde, but as I know I will have to tell them the solution myself for them to rectify this problem , hence need some guidance or advice as to what might have been going wrong in this case?
And how come whatever it is gets rectified after 30 to 50 secs?

Any pointers would be helpful.