[a4anurag]

Originally Posted by somitra1981

Bumping into an old thread.

One of my colleagues Swift Vxi (2013 Model, 10,000 odd kilometres), is lying with Sai Service (Hinjewadi, Pune) for last 22 days, pending resolution for Engine Check Indicator "On".

What is the connection of CEL with any bearing?!

CEL should give out DTC that should get the issue pointed and narrowed.

If the ECM itself is faulty then the new one once hooked shouldn't have given the CEL unless they forget to reset the DTC.

Check the battery I guess it's dying.

[Jeroen]

ECO rarely go faulty! So how did they diagnose it was the ECU?
But unless the car gets hooked up to a manufacturer specific OBD analyzer so you can get the codes or DTCs you will have a very hard time trouble shooting a CEL.

Anybody claiming they know what they are doing without an OBD analyzer and looking for DTCs, is in my opninion incompetent.

As the CEL remained on, after swapping the ECU, you can be near hundred percent certain it wasn't the ECU to start with. the ECU stores the DTCs, so by removing the old one, they would have removed the DTCs. On the new ECU there should be DTCs otherwise the CEL would not be on.

There is no direct correlation I can think of between the CEL and a bearing.

Good luck
Jeroen

[tsk1979]

Originally Posted by Jeroen

Saket pointed out some very good advice and the link he provided has a wealth of information. Vacuum leaks can be a real bugger to trouble shoot. Here is how I would go about it.

Take a very close look at all components. Starting from air intake. Look in particular for any sign of perished rubbers. Tighten all bolts, all clips etc.

Start your engine and let it idle. Now grab hold of the various components, e.g. Air intake, air filter, air mass flow meter etc and really try and shake them about. If your hear a change in engine idle RPM you are likely getting close to the culprit at hand!

Good luck
Jeroen

Can this cause a running car to shut down?
I had this happen a couple of times. Running normally at 2000 rpm(this is a 2.2 Common rail Safari), the engine suddenly lost power. RPM gradually started falling, since I was in gear. I shifted to neutral, and it went to zero quickly, shutting down. The error code was "P1190" which is for vacuum leak or something.
This happens rarely. Probably once in 50-60kms of continuous running

[Jeroen]

Originally Posted by tsk1979

Can this cause a running car to shut down?
I had this happen a couple of times. Running normally at 2000 rpm(this is a 2.2 Common rail Safari), the engine suddenly lost power. RPM gradually started falling, since I was in gear. I shifted to neutral, and it went to zero quickly, shutting down. The error code was "P1190" which is for vacuum leak or something.
This happens rarely. Probably once in 50-60kms of continuous running

I guess it could, be it is unlikely. What car do you have, because a P1190 is not necessary a vacuum leak.

Jeroen

[tsk1979]

Originally Posted by Jeroen

I guess it could, be it is unlikely. What car do you have, because a P1190 is not necessary a vacuum leak.

Jeroen

Its a Tata Safari 2.2
Common rail engine based on AVL block and has a Delphi common rail.

[Jeroen]

Originally Posted by tsk1979

Its a Tata Safari 2.2
Common rail engine based on AVL block and has a Delphi common rail.

Ok, so a P1190 is a Tata specific code, so you really need to look it up in a Tata specific OBD DTC table.

The one I found on line says it is Rail Pressure sensor supply

Jeroen

[tsk1979]

Originally Posted by Jeroen

Ok, so a P1190 is a Tata specific code, so you really need to look it up in a Tata specific OBD DTC table.

The one I found on line says it is Rail Pressure sensor supply

Jeroen

Thanks for the hint
I downloaded the XLS file for tata codes


I also got P0642 secondary code

[somitra1981]

Originally Posted by a4anurag

What is the connection of CEL with any bearing?!

CEL should give out DTC that should get the issue pointed and narrowed.

If the ECM itself is faulty then the new one once hooked shouldn't have given the CEL unless they forget to reset the DTC.

Check the battery I guess it's dying.

Originally Posted by Jeroen

ECO rarely go faulty! So how did they diagnose it was the ECU?
But unless the car gets hooked up to a manufacturer specific OBD analyzer so you can get the codes or DTCs you will have a very hard time trouble shooting a CEL.

Anybody claiming they know what they are doing without an OBD analyzer and looking for DTCs, is in my opninion incompetent.

As the CEL remained on, after swapping the ECU, you can be near hundred percent certain it wasn't the ECU to start with. the ECU stores the DTCs, so by removing the old one, they would have removed the DTCs. On the new ECU there should be DTCs otherwise the CEL would not be on.

There is no direct correlation I can think of between the CEL and a bearing.

Good luck
Jeroen

Thanks for input guys.

Quick update on the CEL issue with my colleagues Swift. The final diagnosis was an issue with wiring harness, which was replaced and CEL issue was fixed.

Did some quick search on google and came across a recall done by Maruti for faulty wiring harness. Probably this issue was related to that recall which Maruti issued for cars manufactured in 2013 for a faulty wiring harness which led to CEL issue back then. But this recall was limited to only Diesel version of the car, however looks like its plaguing Petrol versions as well.

Good news is that all of this was covered under warranty with no cost to my colleague and he also got a replacement car for the entire duration of close to 30+ days.

[Jeroen]

Originally Posted by somitra1981

. The final diagnosis was an issue with wiring harness, which was replaced and CEL issue was fixed.

.

Thanks for the update. Good to know, that again, a fairly simple simple problem, once you know how to diagnose properly!

Wiring harnesses are a bit of the achilles heel of modern cars I believe.

Liek I said many times before, it is very rare for the electronics bits to go wonky. It's usually a sensor, a connector, or as in this case a wiring fault.

As a car grows older, so, obiously, does its wiring harnass. So it really depends on the quality of the harnass and how well it was installed whether it will survive the times so to speak. I''ve seen multiple cases of wiring harnasses of 20-25+ years that have become brittle to the point of following apart spontaneously.

My own beloved Jaguar is no exception when it comes to poor long livity harnesses I hate to say.

Jeroen

[lancer_maniac]

Guys, Posting this here as my post on one of the other threads didnt get me any answers.

My 2011 Chevrolet Cruze (Manual LT) is not starting from yesterday.Even when it did ,which was for only one time, the CEL came on and the engine killed itself in the idle only.For the past one month the engine light had come on for two times and both times the service centre guys erased/reset the codes telling its a minor issue with the emission.But for the past one week i was feeling the power has come down especially when the turbo kicks in.I ignored this thinking it was just my feeling.

But yesterday when i was driving the engine light came on and the engine lost its power the same time but again picking up when the light goes off (As if the fuel is not going in).But still the car didn't stall and i went ahead as it was late in the night as i knew if i stop the car to check i might not be able to start it again so my first preference of making it home which was just some km away.I know it was so stupid of me to ignore that and keep driving,but then i didn't want to be stranded in the middle of nowhere with my family around 2am.This repeated itself some 2 to 3 times within a span of 5 minutes on the drive home after that the engine felt like normal only. after reaching home i stopped and tried to restart again it did start but making the whole car shake as if we start the old amby's.i didnt try again as it was late in the night and thought will take it to the service centre the next morning which was yesterday.But yesterday morning not only the car started it was not even cranking just the click sound as if the battery is dead.I checked the battery which is less than a year old,and it was fine.After that i gave a call to the chevrolet helpline and they towed the car to the service centre. They will be checking the car on Monday morning only as it was a holiday today.But before they come with the diagnosis i want to know from you guys what will be the issue most probably.Im really scared that i might have damaged the engine ,as i heard a clatter sound coming from the engine when i started yesterday night.Please throw in your views as i don't want to be taken for a ride as Im not aware of the technicalities of a vehicle especially when it comes to these dreaded check engine lights.

OT : But just to mention, I was charged 2k to tow my vehicle to the service centre which is just 3 km's away from the spot.
My car is out of warranty,within warranty vehicles it seems they wont charge anything.

[vikram_kmurthy]

Hi Techies,

I have a 2008 LX CrDe model, which has done 1.25L and generally is in good condition.

Recently, I've started noticing that as soon as I start my vehicle or a few seconds later, the engine check light switches on. It remains on for a few seconds and then goes off.

This has been going on for a while and my mechanic says it is nothing the lose sleep over.

Should I be worried? Any pointers on if you have faced similar issues and/or how to approach it is appreciated...

thanks in advance!

[Jaggu]

Originally Posted by vikram_kmurthy

Recently, I've started noticing that as soon as I start my vehicle or a few seconds later, the engine check light switches on. It remains on for a few seconds and then goes off.

Take it to a garage which has diagnostic tool and check for any errors, that will help to identify what the real issue.

Do you see any other tell tale lights coming on during this time? Charging as an example?

Ideally attend to it, this might be start of some part failure.

[Rohan24]

I have a Fiesta 1.6 Duratec, and the CEL has come on, since yesterday. I had parked the car, and came back after an hour, to find the CEL glowing on start-up. I had driven the car around 4 kms before getting to the place where I parked it, and there was no warning light that time.
It was raining heavily, and was very cold, so I thought it could be related to cold-starting. Switched it off and on again, and the light was still there. Decided to drive back home which was 15 kms from there, gingerly, and look for any other telltale signs. But to my surprise, everything seemed fine, apart from the light glowing right in my face.
There was no drop in power, no peculiar sounds from the engine, and the engine temperature settled at the usual mark as well. The fuel efficiency seemed to be normal too. Drove all the way, keeping the revs low. Again checked today morning, and the light is still there.

If it was related to the MAP sensor, it should've caused a drop in power, right?
Or the engine would've switched to the limp-home mode, which would again mean loss in power, isn't it?
I will take it to FASS to check what codes it throws up, but from the symptoms shown, can anyone throw any light as to what issue this could be? Does O2 sensor error not affect power, etc?

[Jeroen]

Originally Posted by Rohan24

I will take it to FASS to check what codes it throws up, but from the symptoms shown, can anyone throw any light as to what issue this could be? Does O2 sensor error not affect power, etc?

It's always frustrating when one minute the car is fine, you park and next, you get the dreaded CEL. There is really no way to tell what is wrong. You can get a CEL from something as simple as the fuel cap not sealing properly. There are relatively few conditions that will get your engine in reduced power mode. Most things that go wrong will not effect power at all. CEL was introduced primarily for emission control. No CEL means your engine is running within emission spec. Many people will run with a CEL on till the next service unless something feels or sounds amiss.

Get it hooked up to a OBD analyser to read the codes. Preferably a car model specific one. If possible try and look over the mechanic shoulder and ask him for the exact readouts.

Good luck

Jeroen

[Rohan24]

Originally Posted by Jeroen

.
.
Get it hooked up to a OBD analyser to read the codes. Preferably a car model specific one. If possible try and look over the mechanic shoulder and ask him for the exact readouts.

Good luck

Jeroen

Thank you sir.
Yes, as the old saying goes "As long as it's working.."
I called my SA and told him the symptoms. He's asked me to check for any damage to the wires, courtesy of rodents. Will go to the service centre tomorrow and get the error codes checked.