[CRDIsamir]

Originally Posted by drsnt

Friends need guidance for my Indica Turbo Dlg 2006 I have three problems

I had bought this car at 58k 6 month back and presently at 64k+

This was the first time I got it to highway 450 kms one way with 2 adults, me and my wife in back with kids.

1>I faced problem with AC

AC as such is very fine working even when at idle waiting in car absolute chilling but I realized that after 90KMph the AC became very less effective with frequent complaint from my wife in back but it regains normal cooling below 90kmph. What could be the cause? Also I have noted that there is a frequent relay sound from driver side like "tak tak" once every 1 or 2 mins when AC is on (probably something to do with RPM as I have felt it)



2> My vehicle makes sound and vibration from 2600 to 3100 rpm with peak at 2950-3000 RPM. i can feel vibrations even in all pedals. SO driving at speed from around 103-118 KMPH becomes entirely irritating. This vibration is present in all gears. I had changed one engine mount and other bushes when I bought car but not much difference



3> while going my car gave 18+ milage with AC and some spirited driving. but on return average fell to 15. I regularly use System D but it finished few refill back so while going it was normal diesel but i bought one bottle and while coming back i used 40ml for tank full. Engine became smoooooth but the average went down,driving condition were almost same. Is it due to System D??

Gurus please guide

Theres a potentiometer on the fuel injection pump. It has to be set as per the plastic tag on the accelerator lever on the pump. Please visit a Tata Motors dealer or a Delphi-TVS dealer who will be able to set the potentiometer with the special tool. The potentiometer controls the EGR and the A/c compressor.


Regarding the vibration again i suspect the FIP. No nothing wrong with the settings or calibration. Just have the support bracket checked weather it is securely fastened with the nut & bolt.

Please check the mileage again. it has got nothing to do with system d. Mileage around 17 18 with A/c on is quite ok for Indica Turbo.

Thanks & regards

Samir

[rkw]

Info needed on a spare part
Have an Indica DLS 2001. Currently with my sister in TN. The mechanic there suggested the replacement of "slow starting sensor". He tells that is needed for maintaining rpm. It is kind of a connector with some wire/strings. For now, he has tied the wire directly.
What exactly is this part. Attaching pic. for reference. It is a small thing, the size of a pen cap.

[AutoIndian]

Originally Posted by rkw

Info needed on a spare part
Have an Indica DLS 2001. Currently with my sister in TN. The mechanic there suggested the replacement of "slow starting sensor". He tells that is needed for maintaining rpm. It is kind of a connector with some wire/strings. For now, he has tied the wire directly.
What exactly is this part. Attaching pic. for reference. It is a small thing, the size of a pen cap.

I am seeing this part for the first time. The part which is needed for mainlining idling rpm is called FICD (Fast Idle Control Device). When the AC is switched ON, this part increases the idling rpm to cope up the additional load on the engine. However the part shown by you in the pictures is nowhere close to FICD. Can you please find out where does this part fit in the engine (which sub assembly)? (A picture might help). We might then be able to get some hint. This to me looks like a solenoid switch. The FICD too has a solenoid switch which is used to actuate the plunger, it could be this part.

[Amazing]

My Indica V2 DLX T @ 40K running, is expecting a engine oil change after 5000 kms after last change done. For last 5 changes , I have used only Delvac MX.

I was thinking to get the syntheic oil this time. Can you pls suggest if that will make really a difference in the engine noise, smoothness, revving capability etc , since cost is almost 4 times as compared to MX.

Also, for synthetic I am planning to ask TASS to put Selenia Diesel oil ( that is used in Linea Diesel, since its a bit cheaper than Mobil 1 used in Manza ). Or should I go for the Shell Ultra synthetic ?

awaiting your inputs / better alternatives of mineral oil , if any.

[greenhorn]

Originally Posted by Amazing

My Indica V2 DLX T @ 40K running, is expecting a engine oil change after 5000 kms after last change done. For last 5 changes , I have used only Delvac MX.

I was thinking to get the syntheic oil this time. Can you pls suggest if that will make really a difference in the engine noise, smoothness, revving capability etc , since cost is almost 4 times as compared to MX.

Also, for synthetic I am planning to ask TASS to put Selenia Diesel oil ( that is used in Linea Diesel, since its a bit cheaper than Mobil 1 used in Manza ). Or should I go for the Shell Ultra synthetic ?

awaiting your inputs / better alternatives of mineral oil , if any.

Synthetic is ABSOLUTELY NOT required on our older tech engines. I have found Delvac MX to be noticeably rougher (in fact almost all the newer engine oils such as castrol GTX D to be a bit rough). Castrol GTD was the best. Right now my mech uses some elf oil, and it seems to be fine. If you want smoothness, use system D regularly, and have a look at your engine mounts , injectors, timing etc

more here
http://www.team-bhp.com/forum/modify...neral-oil.html
http://www.team-bhp.com/forum/techni...gine-oils.html

[jav]

Originally Posted by Amazing

My Indica V2 DLX T @ 40K running, is expecting a engine oil change after 5000 kms after last change done. For last 5 changes , I have used only Delvac MX.

I was thinking to get the syntheic oil this time. Can you pls suggest if that will make really a difference in the engine noise, smoothness, revving capability etc , since cost is almost 4 times as compared to MX.

Also, for synthetic I am planning to ask TASS to put Selenia Diesel oil ( that is used in Linea Diesel, since its a bit cheaper than Mobil 1 used in Manza ). Or should I go for the Shell Ultra synthetic ?

awaiting your inputs / better alternatives of mineral oil , if any.

I have used synthetic oil in my Indica dlx and the engine became loud and the oil consumption increased to 1liter per 1000kms and i think the pick up too dropped, but there was no change in my Toyota Qualis with synthetic oil.

[rkw]

Originally Posted by AutoIndian

I am seeing this part for the first time. The part which is needed for mainlining idling rpm is called FICD (Fast Idle Control Device). When the AC is switched ON, this part increases the idling rpm to cope up the additional load on the engine. However the part shown by you in the pictures is nowhere close to FICD. Can you please find out where does this part fit in the engine (which sub assembly)? (A picture might help). We might then be able to get some hint. This to me looks like a solenoid switch. The FICD too has a solenoid switch which is used to actuate the plunger, it could be this part.

Thanks AutoIndian.
If I remember, in 2001 only the DLX came with FICD. Attaching pic showing the location of the part. From the pic, I can see one end going towards the FIP. I have circled the location.

[rkw]

Got the part. It is called slow start sensor connector. Price Rs.90/-

[panky12345]

Originally Posted by Amazing

My Indica V2 DLX T @ 40K running, is expecting a engine oil change after 5000 kms after last change done.. if any.

Flush your engine with OWS 210, pour mineral Delvac MX (keep the drain to 10K). Use Xado - Revitalizant for diesel engines and see the magic

[sridhga]

Whenever the radiator fan turns on, the pickup drops. What should I do?
The car is Indica DLS Turbo

[AutoIndian]

Originally Posted by sridhga

Whenever the radiator fan turns on, the pickup drops. What should I do?
The car is Indica DLS Turbo

The radiator fan pulls the power from the battery, hence the battery gets loaded, which in turn is being charged by the alternator. The alternator has to work overtime, which loads the engine, hence the drop in power/pick-up. When the radiator fan turns ON, try to keep the engine rpm in the mar torque range (2500 rpm), the engine has the maximum puling power in this range. Hence you won't feel a noticeable drop in power if you are in this rpm band.

[sschivate]

Originally Posted by rkw

Thanks AutoIndian.
If I remember, in 2001 only the DLX came with FICD. Attaching pic showing the location of the part. From the pic, I can see one end going towards the FIP. I have circled the location.

@rkw, you are correct. My 2000 DLE does not have FICD.

[deutscheafrikar]

Originally Posted by SS-Traveller

These are not mechanical (cable-driven) meters AFAIK, and the malfunction is probably related to a loose contact somewhere - either in a fuse, or one or more sensor(s) going bad. Since all meters as well as dashboard light have gone kaput together, I'd suspect a fuse issue (or a break in the wiring) somewhere.

You do need to go to that electrician!

SS-Traveller I got it done in april and sold off the car. It was in the pcb behind the instrument meters. I think the meters are VDO. The pcb seems quite high tech from the looks of it. I went to an electrican who opened it up and then showed it to a guy who fixes radios and tapes.This guy managed to find the fault and fix it. Must have been minor cos he repaired it in no time after he understood the problem of nothing working, no tacho, no spedo, no fuel or temp guage. In that little time I was ready to get a new one cos at first he didn't seem conficdent. Spent 1200 to get it fixed which was less that the 2k another guy had asked for earlier. Thought I'd post this in case soemone has the same problem in future
Thanks a lot

[bblost]

This is a problem a friend of mine is facing.

In his own words:

"I have a 2007 Indica V2 Turbo DLS model. It has clocked 39000 Km. After the last servicing I have observed a problem. When I ride my car first in the morning, I can change the gears smoothly. But after riding for about 20-30 mins, shifting the gears becomes harder. This problem remains all through out the day even though I drive only for say 2 - 3 hrs during the day. The next morning, for the first 20 mins drive, I can shift the gears smoothly and after that the problem starts."

Please help. What could be the reason?

[DieselDon]

Originally Posted by bblost

What could be the reason?

Was there any diagnosis attempted by the TASS/Other ? Clutch Cable, Oil ?
Any other symptoms ? Black Smoke , Clutch slipping ? Any specific Gears ?
Is it any better if the car is restarted ? or Slowed down/RPM lowered ?