[G V Krishna]

Dear OP,

If I were you, I would chuck out that battery and replace it with an Amaron 72 Months Warranty (Equivalent AH rating) battery. This is purely based on my 25+ years of car ownership of different makes & Home Inverters. Whenever we had an E***e make battery (E***e & S* S****), it mostly ended going kaput prematurely or failing miserably. On the other hand TATA Green & Amaron were good 99% of times.

If it is not considered E***e bashing, I personally had two cars within 1 year of purchasing had their batteries conked off overnight. Needless to say, they were made by E***e.

At the end of the day, it is worth spending 8-10K on a good battery for a 50L car and have a peaceful sleep rather than chasing Ex**e for replacement.

[phi]

Originally Posted by applegrew

I noticed the voltage to fluctuate between 12.8V to 14.2V. I don't remember ever seeing the voltage to go to 14V levels before. So I hope the PCM update might have helped. (Wishful thinking )

Are you checking the voltage shown in the connected car app? I believe the voltage shown here is the voltage input to the electrical system at any point. When the car is running, this voltage is supplied by the alternator, and this could go upto 14.5V when the alternator is supplying the electrical system and charging the battery at the same time. The value does not represent the battery voltage, afaik.

[applegrew]

Originally Posted by phi

Are you checking the voltage shown in the connected car app? I believe the voltage shown here is the voltage input to the electrical system at any point. When the car is running, this voltage is supplied by the alternator, and this could go upto 14.5V when the alternator is supplying the electrical system and charging the battery at the same time. The value does not represent the battery voltage, afaik.

Yes on the Jeep Life App. The label says "Battery" hence I made that assumption.

[NiInJa]

The problem seems to be more current draw when the car is off, that is, the alternator is off. Your battery health will always show good as it seems new and will accept charge nicely from the alternator, charging fairly quickly and holding charge.

See if you can procure this clamp meter from anywhere. With car off (and key removed), clamp it around the wire from the negative terminal. If you see more than expected draw, then something is wrong with the car electronics/electricals.



One more thing, this happened with my Honda Jazz recently, the car drained battery for no reason. The AA guy told me it can happen for some unexpected electronic reasons. The problem has not occurred since. These newer cars have onboard computers for lane assist, pedestrian safety, speed limit reading etc., never really know how they work. It is better to drive the car almost every alternate day.

[JitendraK78]

In my observation, the OE batteries are always of less capacity and deteriorate quickly compared to after-market batteries of same brand.

I guess the reason is the prices at which the battery manufacturers need to sell to vehicle manufacturers.

I have seen that the capacity of the OE battery is less compared to the battery specifications mentioned in the onwer's manual.

I always have a jump start cable (as a part of my usual tool kit) in my car even if the car is new or has a newly installed battery. Can be of help at odd hours, although needs another vehicle to jump start from.

[applegrew]

Originally Posted by NiInJa

The problem seems to be more current draw when the car is off, that is, the alternator is off. Your battery health will always show good as it seems new and will accept charge nicely from the alternator, charging fairly quickly and holding charge.

...

One more thing, this happened with my Honda Jazz recently, the car drained battery for no reason. The AA guy told me it can happen for some unexpected electronic reasons. The problem has not occurred since. These newer cars have onboard computers for lane assist, pedestrian safety, speed limit reading etc., never really know how they work. It is better to drive the car almost every alternate day.

In my case I was indeed driving it everyday and for 6 or more kms. Even then this happened the very next day but last 6 months never had such an incident. Thanks for describing the approach. I had a 2015 Honda Jazz before this car. It had much less electronics. Changed the car battery once in 8yrs because it had died since it was lying idle for over a year during Covid.

Day 4: Update 2

Finally got my car back today. Not only that, the car battery was changed under warranty. During a test drive later today the service centre noticed that the Auto Start/Stop was not functioning, whereas it was functioning yesterday only with the same battery. Because of that they got approval to replace the battery.

While driving back today I felt that it was driving as smooth as it were when it was brand new. In fact it started driving slightly rough only after last service (few weeks back). I thought maybe I was imagining it or the tyre pressure was less. This time they have updated the PCM software, not sure if that has anything to do with that.

[Newtown]

Originally Posted by applegrew

Can you suggest a good and portable car jump starter? Since it seems I would need that now

I now need to understand how to jump start a car and need suggestions for good portable jump starter.

Good news. Enjoy the car.

70mai Jump Starter, 600A Peak Current, 11100mAH, for Petrol Engines Upto 4.0L and Diesel Engines Upto 2.0L
https://www.amazon.in/70mai-Starter-.../dp/B07XLZ1CFT

I have been using the above jump starter for about 3 years now. Works like a charm. Have been able to help 7 cars with it. Had bought it at the time when the Civic was still with me and had starting issues at times.