[shrinz.vivek]

Today, during my routine under body peek, I found RR LH shock absorber leaking oil. Its been probably like that from a few days.

My Innova is a 2011 model with 1,37,000 km on the odo. Since I bought it pre owned recently im not sure if the shocks were replaced before.

I called up a few friends at Viva Toyota and at aftermarket spares shops and realized that Toyota OE part is 3 times more expensive than aftermarket parts from Gabriel or Monroe.
Next I called Gabriel to confirm if both the parts were the same and is the price difference only because of TOYOTA genuine spares supply routing. To my surprise, he said yes.
Also almost all the mechanics I spoke to asked me to change both LH and RH shocks. But their justification for the same felt more like "feeling based" rather than "technical reasoning"

Hence i would seek Team BHP advice for :
1. It is safe to go for aftermarket shocks instead of OE? Are they really the same?
Also aftermarket shocks means getting it fitted in FNGs. Will they be able to torque it properly with the right tools?
2. Should I change both shocks or is it ok to change only the damaged one?

Below are some images

The leaky shock absorber


The OK shock absorber


The price difference between aftermarket and OE. The OE part title says "set", but I confirmed that is one single piece and not set of 2.


Thanks in advance for the help !!

[sagarpadaki]

My suggestion is to go for aftermarket only if you can confirm that Monroe/Garbriel are the OE for Toyota. Original Toyota shock absorbers are better quality. You can get them fit at any FNG. It is a very simple job to replace the shocks. No need to worry too much about torque spec.

Since you are not sure if the shock absorbers were replaced earlier or not, replace both of them as pair.

[Manoj2268]

Alternatively, you can also look for KYB shocks. KYB are OE for many Japanese Manufacturers.

Also, on the shock, there will be markings showing the name of the OE manufacturer, in addition to the toyota logo.

Also Boodmo shows that the prices for Monroe/Gabriel are in the range of 1500, the TKM/Lexus branded, 3.5K-ish.

[aaggoswami]

Originally Posted by shrinz.vivek

My Innova is a 2011 model with 1,37,000 km on the odo.

Hence i would seek Team BHP advice for :
1. It is safe to go for aftermarket shocks instead of OE? Are they really the same?
Also aftermarket shocks means getting it fitted in FNGs. Will they be able to torque it properly with the right tools?
2. Should I change both shocks or is it ok to change only the damaged one?

My 2012 Innova rear RHS shock absorber developed a leak around Diwali last year. Got Monroe as a replacement and took it to FNG for fitment. Job barely took 40-45 mins. and new shock absorber was installed. I changed only the one which was leaking. For regular driving it works well. Monroe is slightly stiffer than regular, this is felt more when car is having only one or two occupants. But nothing out of the blue. You can safely go for Monroe if you are sure its not a counterfeit.

[shrinz.vivek]

Update: My dad could not tolerate my R&D. He drove down to Viva Toyota and got both shocks replaced for INR7500.

Meanwhile I spoke to a couple of more chassis designers working for a Japanese OEM. Here's what they told:

1. Aftermarket parts are definitely of a lesser quality than OE, but not so bad that it will fail in a short period.

2. The reason why it is recommended to replace both shocks together is because; the failure of one shock is an indication that the other one will fail soon. So its better to replace both and get done with the risk. Otherwise there is no problem running on one old and one new.

So that's all for now. Thank you everyone for the advice.

[sagarpadaki]

Originally Posted by shrinz.vivek

Update: My dad could not tolerate my R&D. He drove down to Viva Toyota and got both shocks replaced for INR7500.

Meanwhile I spoke to a couple of more chassis designers working for a Japanese OEM. Here's what they told:

1. Aftermarket parts are definitely of a lesser quality than OE, but not so bad that it will fail in a short period.

2. The reason why it is recommended to replace both shocks together is because; the failure of one shock is an indication that the other one will fail soon. So its better to replace both and get done with the risk. Otherwise there is no problem running on one old and one new.

So that's all for now. Thank you everyone for the advice.

Good decision

Another reason as to why to replace shocks in pairs especially when they have run a lot is because, the one which is OK would have become weak and the the one will have strong compression and rebound characteristics which the old one cannot match. This will lead to unstable handling and decline in ride quality.

[Jeroen]

Most shocks are replaced in pairs. The only way to tell is to look it up in the Manufacturer workshop manual.

On my Mercedes and my Jaguar they can be replaced individually according to their respective workshop manual.

I am not quite sure about the technical reason behind replacing them in pairs. Other than they tend to be of equal age, so are likely to fail shortly after one fails. There are some people that claim an old and a new shock give different dampening. I am not sure I buy into that. Modern shocks work or they don’t. There is not much in between working properly and failing when it comes to shocks.

To some extend the same story applies to springs as well. I do find it more plausible to replace springs in pairs. I have replaced many springs and often you can measure a difference between the old and the new spring. Both inspring and loaded. So if you replace only one, your car is going to tilt ever so slightly.

But when in doubt make sure to look it up in the respective workshop manual.

Good luck

Jeroen

[sagarpadaki]

Originally Posted by Jeroen

Modern shocks work or they don’t. There is not much in between working properly and failing when it comes to shocks.

Jeroen

Interesting. So there is no such thing as shock absorbers becoming weak over time and thereby losing their compression and rebound characteristics gradually? It is either 0 or 1. They work well or they do not?

Would love to read about this if you have any link to documentation on this topic.

[Oppanna]

Originally Posted by Jeroen

Most shocks are replaced in pairs. The only way to tell is to look it up in the Manufacturer workshop manual.

Modern shocks work or they don’t. There is not much in between working properly and failing when it comes to shocks.

Jeroen

I was under impression that when we change the shock absorbers we need to change it as a pair and not single. The reason is that one would be aged and other would not. Now since you have mentioned this i am curious to understand the reasoning behind.

[IndigoXLGrandDi]

Hello Bhpians,

The Rear Right Damper (Shock Absorber) of our Hyundai Alcazar is leaking Oil. The car has run 93,556 Kms. Is it necessary to replace the Rear Left Damper alongwith Rear Right Damper?

As Jeroen Sir mentioned that in modern cars, it's not necessary to replace Dampers in pairs, I am more inclined towards replacing only the Rear Right Damper.

Please advise.

[Jeroen]

Originally Posted by IndigoXLGrandDi

?

As Jeroen Sir mentioned that in modern cars, it's not necessary to replace Dampers in pairs, I am more inclined towards replacing only the Rear Right Damper.

Please advise.

Sorry, that is not what I said.

I said:

The only way to tell is to look it up in the Manufacturer workshop manual.

Don’t assume you can replace them one by one. Always check first!

Good luck
Jeroen

[IndigoXLGrandDi]

Originally Posted by Jeroen

Most shocks are replaced in pairs. The only way to tell is to look it up in the Manufacturer workshop manual.

On my Mercedes and my Jaguar they can be replaced individually according to their respective workshop manual.

Sir, I am not that lucky to have easy access to the Manufacturer workshop manual.

Originally Posted by Jereon

I am not quite sure about the technical reason behind replacing them in pairs. Other than they tend to be of equal age, so are likely to fail shortly after one fails. There are some people that claim an old and a new shock give different dampening. I am not sure I buy into that. Modern shocks work or they don’t. There is not much in between working properly and failing when it comes to shocks.

But when in doubt make sure to look it up in the respective workshop manual.

Jeroen

Sir, this is why I was more inclined towards replacing the leaking damper only.

[RJK]

Just FYI - Even though your dad has changed the rear dampers at Toyota, I'd just like to tell you; I had done the same & changed rear dampers at Toyota dealership. However, they leaked within 1 yr or about 12,000 kms, took it up with the Toyota dealer & he said the parts carry a warranty of only 3 months, so that didn't help.

Following the above experience, I bought Gabriel dampers aftermarket, which are still doing fine. So its like a lottery, and especially with the old toyota, not worth paying the premium at a dealership.

Cheers

[pcpranav]

just came across this thread :

in my Toyota Fortuner 3.0L 2015, I have changed almost all of front and rear suspension parts (struts, tie-rods, control arm bushes for both lower & upper arms, other bushes, etc). The Toyota OG costs a lot, and I have been happy purchasing other brand parts from Boodmo and local shops, getting fitted with a good nearby pvt garage.

As a matter of fact, just last week I got replaced with Lemforder (ZF brand) tie-rod (inner steering side, and outer wheel side) pair for some 3200 bucks, and labour 600 bucks. My trusted alignment guy told there was a slight play in the tie-rods, so I didnt hesitate to get it corrected asap. The tie-rod were available in other local brand too in similar price range, but I choose Lemforder, as TRW (again ZF brand) wasn't available. Whereas Toyota same parts cost 4-5 times more !!

Going bit off-topic, talking about aftermarket vs OG :

Earlier I also had an experience of replacing front strut (shock absorber) with Toyota OE (Tokico Japan), but they failed within a year. That can happen too, no worries.
Monroe, TRW, Gabriel are good brands easily available locally at reasonable costs.

For control arm bushes, try for RBI brand (Thailand import), they are really good. Else get the local mfg ones too. The cost would be far less than Toyota OG, and life would be similar.

PS : I would always replace in pair for such parts, better vehicle control and peace of mind.

On other hand, few weeks back I went to Toyota workshop to get replaced the drive shaft boot on left side, since the rubber has a small cut - leak. This Toyota original rubber boot (imported) costed a whooping ~9400, and with labour it was about 11K !! But this one I didn't want to compromise, as local rubber boots are prone to not last long, read the global forums too on this.

Similarly, few months back I replaced the rubber o-rings kit on front brake caliper pistons, got original kit from Boodmo for ~1800 bucks. Got fitted at local garage.

Clutch kit I have replaced few months back at local garage, at far lesser cost.
FYR - Sachs (ZF) brand of clutch plate, pressure plate; NSK Japan branded Release Bearing, Toyota OG Pilot bearing, replaced the Dot-4 brake oil.

Brake pads & liners, I had used aftermarkets ones happily. Front ones are currently on TVS. Rear liners would last for another 5-8K KM, however I purchased Motherson branded for 2400 and change in upcoming service.

Upon crossing 1.5 Lac KM, I changed with original timing belt at Toyota itself, costed about 4K - this is reasonable.

all the filters (air, cabin, oil, fuel) - all aftermarket from Boodmo or sometimes local store, these are cheap.

The larger point I was trying to make with this off-topic text, some parts I would trust with Toyota, whereas some I would try aftermarket branded.

Kindly excuse the long off-topic text, for the larger benefit I thought of writing here.

PS: I love exploring Boodmo's parts catalogues and go quite deeper in reading that, its fun.

regards,
Pranav