Re: Toyota Fortuner : Reducing body roll I always understood the term "body roll" to basically mean the angle at which the body settles into on a turn of whichever radius at a given speed.
I think some people use the term more often to describe the sort of side-to-side rocking and sway that vehicles like the Scorpio are famous for.
But short of a very high-tech active suspension you can't have your cake and eat it too; And what's interesting is that corrections to these two differing dynamics can be mutually exclusive - meaning that certain things done to improve body roll (first definition) actually increase the swaying/rocking, and vice-versa.
Personally I think the general move towards crossovers from SUV's (same happened in the U.S. some years ago) comes down partly to the aformentioned physics - the fact that COG vehicles will always involve compromises in the ride&handling department.
Mechanics in H.P. call the sway bar a "jumping rod" which probably indicates that they have a limited grasp of what it does and why. They are not alone.
Won't get into it too deeply, but the basic function is to reduce roll by attempting to some degree to keep right and left side wheels in the same relative location to the body. Bigger the bar, the greater the effect. Some 4x4's (Rubicon) have automated sway bar disconnects for offroad use, where you want more articulation and a sway bar would prevent it.
As for practical effects will just say that:
1. A bigger sway (a.k.a. anti-roll) bar will decrease roll but actually noticeably INCREASE the side-to-side swaying on uneven surfaces.
2. A smaller sway bar will allow more roll in turns but smooths out the rocking motion on uneven surfaces.
So it's necessary to be clear about what you're aiming for, in relation to your own specific context / driving habits.
On roads with smooth, even pavement, larger sway bars are generally a boon; on uneven, undulating surfaces normally will create a rougher ride.
So-called "heavy duty" suspensions generally use larger ones, for more control in turns with heavy loads and at higher speeds. Which can make the perception of ride quality worse.
That said there are many approaches - roll can be reduced with OE sway bars by increasing spring rates - but that will increase the sort of "jiggliness" (now there's a proper technical term) on smaller sorts of bumps and surface roughness.
Shock absorber damping rates/curves of course also do play a role.
So it's potentially complex and there are compromises everywhere.
Also worth mentioning that going larger on the front bar, all other things being equal, increases understeer at the limit - whereas going larger on the back (or adding one where originally absent) increases oversteer - which OEM's tend to frown upon, since noobs can't manage oversteer as well. But icrease them both by the same margin, and you're balanced again... but rocking it nicely!
All this to say that unless you've got some tech knowledge and time for potentially fooling around till you get the improvements you desire, a properly engineered solution makes sense.
Also important to realize that so much depends on typical road quality encountered by passengers. OEM's try and tune them best they can according to tastes and habits of greatest number of customers at average speeds on sort of "average" roads. This is definitely not going to be the best for everyone.
I have no experience with Ironman and other offroad / aftermarket suspensions and not sure as to the tuning approaches taken, but as others advised it is good to research and if possible test-drive, because those tend to get expensive.
-Eric |