[brt_mhn]

Hello fellow BHPians. I know this thread will absolutely hurt all of us to the core. But I hope we can give this trusty 2012 i20 CRDI a new life.

I found a post by BHPian beejay in which he gave his parameters for writing off a car as abused. As you will see, this i20 satisfies all the parameters.



About the car:
This is a 2012 Hyundai i20 CRDI Asta Pre-facelift model. We bought the car in Feb ‘12 and had been in constant use till August 2021 when we finally retired it as our daily car. This ol’ reliable machine has done 61,716 km at the point of writing this. Current running is around 70-90 kilometres per week thanks to my driving lessons.



My father was a very conservative and sedate driver and never stressed the car too much while driving. He never even remotely attempted to close a gap in traffic. In all my years as a passenger, I have never seen him cross 2000 rpm more than 6-7 times. My dad is the kind of guy (please believe me, this is 100% true) to drive at 40 in 4th while going uphill! Add to that the fact that we use the AC once in a blue moon, it is safe to say that he is one of the most efficient drivers out there. Fuel efficiency you ask? 20 Kpl in the city! Every time we calculate this, he comes away amazed (as if he’s been rally racing the car).

What went wrong?
To bring it down to 2 words, cost cutting. My father never believed in manufacturer recommended because he always thought of them to be very optimistic. As far as I remember, the engine oil has been replaced only during the 1 month service internals in the absolute beginning. Coolant was replaced once 4-5 years ago along with the battery. Other fluids and components have never been changed. And since wear and tear is very gradual, none of us in the family never even noticed anything. All this changed after two events in the past 6 months. The first one being that we moved into an MG ZS EV and the second one being me starting to drive.

What are your preliminary observations?
My Numero Uno observation in the i20 was that the ride was very jittery and I could easily diagnose that the suspension was worn out.
The second thing was that the car was pulling to the left. The service centre has diagnosed that the steering rack is busted and that they want to replace it which I believe to be true as the car used to squeal every time I reversed with the steering wheel completely turned to the right (In retrospect, is it just an alignment thing?).
My third observation is aimed at the brakes that squealed every time I depressed the brake pedal mildly. This disappears as soon as you press it down a little more though. I think I should get the brake pads replaced.
My last major observation is that there is a bit of resistance when I try shifting into 2nd from 3rd. This does not happen for any other gear.
Apart from this, there are various scratches and dents (I managed to remove a few) picked up over the years and other things like the struts for the boot failing to keep it upright. The bonnet is also a little loose leading to noise and vibrations at idle.

I intend to replace things like bumpers and a broken tail lamp lens myself and leave the mechanical components to an authorised service centre.

I have always proclaimed myself as an enthusiast but most of my knowledge was only market related coming off Autocar India and more recently, Team-BHP. I am truly humbled upon realising how much I do not know after joining this wonderful forum. I am now slowly learning the nitty-gritty of engines and various other “Quirks and Features” (any Doug DeMuro viewers out there?).

I request the esteemed members of this forum to suggest various amendments to be made.
And also, we will be strictly adhering to manufacturer recommended replacements and checks for the ZS EV. Complacency? Not on my watch.

Thanks and regards,
Brt

[PaddleShifter]

First, are you aware of any trusted FNG in your city? Get the car’s engine compartment inspected from them properly. The service centre “might” try to fleece you in the name of “restoring” your car that has not been serviced as per schedule. Depends upon the service centre really. I was made to sign a document in 2014 by FIAT ASC that I am refusing steering column replacement suggested by them and I will be responsible for the consequences. The steering column is working fine as of 2022. I just need to top up the power steering oil every few months.

Are you sure engine oil was changed only once during the initial service? Or am I misinterpreting?

Regarding servicing, leave body work for the end. First see if there is any major fault with the car mechanically. Once you have ascertained that the money to be spent is reasonable, start with the basic service and then drive the car for 2-3 months without changing the steering or suspension. Once a low running car is put to use, the aged components generally seek attention within the initial few months. Once you know it is working fine and is taking higher usage nicely, go to step 2.

Step 1. Get the basic servicing done ASAP in which you replace all oils/fluids (engine oil, transmission oil, brake oil, coolant) and filters (air filter, fuel filter, cabin AC filter, oil filter).

Step 2: Ascertain the parts that need replacement (You have already done that).
a) Get suspension and alignment work done together. Once the suspension and alignment is fixed, get the work on steering column done.
b) Get brake pads and discs replaced together (I dont recommend changing the pads alone in your case unless the discs seem fine enough to run another 40-50k Kms). Discs replaced now would most probably work for the rest of the lifetime of the car.
c) Get miscellaneous parts replaced: boot struts, tail lamps, bumpers. Rejuvinate the exteriors from a local body shop. I think your 60,000km driven i20 will serve you well.

[sagarpadaki]

For starters, replace all the fluids and filters in the car

1. Coolant
2. Gear oil
3. Engine oil.
4. Diesel filter

Fill in Shell Rimula R4(5L) with a new oil filter.

The left pulling looks like a alignment issue. Get it checked at a reputed alignment center in your city. Change tyres if they are more than 7 years old. Also, check the front brakes for binding

Go for the cosmetic corrections only if the car is mechanically correct. No point in spending money on new bumpers and painting if the car does not drive properly.

PS - We have a 12 year old i20 CRDi done 1.4 Lakh kms. It is one of the well built cars of the era. They do not build like them anymore.

[GTO]

Your car sure does look like its been used rough, but it's not too different from "beater cars (Beater Cars: The unsung heroes! And advantages of owning one)" which many BHPians have. My own Sunny has a lot of battle scars as we put it through all kinds of rough usage.

Good thing is:

- Your i20 has only done ~60,000 km. It's built to good standards, so there is hope. What you need to do is have a competent independent mechanic give it a full checkup, and then fix all the important stuff.

- You are learning how to drive and a cheap, old car like this is the perfect companion for the purpose.

Originally Posted by brt_mhn

any Doug DeMuro viewers out there?

Big fan of Doug . Hope you've seen his new business https://carsandbids.com/

[shancz]

Excellent idea IMHO, the stuff you mentioned shouldn't be that expensive/complicated to fix.

On top of what others have already mentioned :
- Get your battery filled and charged to full to avoid any premature failure since it has been running low for some time now.

- Bumpers can be repaired at very cheap costs at dedicated shops including dents and tears.

- The gearshift could be an issue with the car too but check the manual for gear oil replacement schedule and if not that expensive get it changed to a matching grade even before schedule.

Its a good car, isn't it the one which had the "Euro NCAP 5 star" rated ? Like mentioned earlier an excellent beater car which will serve you well especially if its the Asta variant

Good Luck and keep us posted

[landcruiser123]

Change the engine oil and do the minimal repairs like brakes and battery since you are learning to drive. Check the oil level every 1000 km or so. If the car doesn't burn any oil, then go ahead with other fixes. If the car burns oil a significant amount of oil, sadly, it is time to get rid of it once you are a more confident driver.

[brt_mhn]

Originally Posted by PaddleShifter

First, are you aware of any trusted FNG in your city?

Yes, there is one that I think I trust reasonably enough. Thank you for your inputs regarding Fiat ASC!

Your interpretation is correct. None of the fluids except the coolant have been replaced after the initial service intervals.

As of now, we have given the car to an authorised service centre for suspension as my father is a little early for such a big job. They have given us a quote of 25 grand including labour for suspension and brake pads. I also thought it would be best to leave body work to the end. These observations of mine are after 4-5 months of observation. I do not feel that there are mechanical problems apart from those mentioned. I can feel the "midrange punch" which Diesels are known for.

I have one question regarding the oils though. I have read about engine oil sludge if the oils have not be replaced at the right time. How do I find out if this is the case in our car?

Regarding discs, the service centre said it was in pretty good shape. I had asked them in the beginning itself to check if the discs needed to be replaced too.

I will convey the rest to my father.
Thanks.

Originally Posted by sagarpadaki

For starters, replace all the fluids and filters in the car

Thank you very much for your inputs! We will look into all that you have said. I too had decided to bring in cosmetic changes in the end.
Glad to hear about your i20 too! It truly seems to golden.

Mod note: Please use Multi Quote [Quote+] instead of creating back to back posts as replies. Thanks.

Originally Posted by GTO

Your car sure does look like its been used rough, but it's not too different from "beater cars (Beater Cars: The unsung heroes! And advantages of owning one)" which many BHPians have. My own Sunny has a lot of battle scars as we put it through all kinds of rough usage.

Thank you! Your words give me hope. I shall do the same. And yes, I am "sure to check out Cars and Bids" before starting up a new video. Jokes aside, I like the fact that it also gives you a cameo of a future video.

Originally Posted by shancz

Excellent idea IMHO, the stuff you mentioned shouldn't be that expensive/complicated to fix.

Good Luck and keep us posted

Thank you for your inputs! Will definitely look into the battery and gear oil. Regarding the bumpers, the place where the bumper attaches to the bodywork seems to have broken and there are lots of scratches, punctures and dents in it. As per my observation, it seems like it will be cheaper to replace them than get them repaired.

Ah yes, Hyundai was very proud of the 5 star GNCAP rating. Interestingly, our car didn't have the sticker. But that's good because less clutter i suppose.
Thanks.

Originally Posted by landcruiser123

Change the engine oil and do the minimal repairs like brakes and battery since you are learning to drive.

Thank you! I will note down my observations and match them with your inputs.

[Rahul Bhalgat]

Hi brt_mhn,

First of all, a running of around 61,000 km in 9 years does not call for a diesel car. It should have been petrol. Diesel car will be more expensive if your running is so limited. Petrol would have saved you more in the initial cost as well as the maintenance than extra money it would have demanded for the fuel. Anyway.

As other members have pointed out, get all the fluids and filters changed. This includes fuel filter too. Don't be in a hurry to change suspension as of now. Just get the wheel alignment corrected. Have a second opinion on steering rack. Once the car settles down with consistently reliable and smooth running, then go for suspension work, if needed.

Though you say that oil has never been changed after the one-month service, it is unlikely. Maybe some service station would have changed it some time when you gave the car for any repairs or small complaints. I cannot imagine 60,000 km without oil change. If it is really the case, see of the engine runs well for a few months, after changing the fluids. Go for other work only after this.

In all probability, your CRDI car would have a turbocharger. If you indeed haven't changed the oil for 60,000 km, then you are sitting on a time bomb.

If you do not need two cars in the family, sell off this low-run diesel turbocharged car which hasn't undergone oil change for around 60,000 km. Sell it after changing the fluids.

[boniver]

Originally Posted by brt_mhn

As far as I remember, the engine oil has been replaced only during the 1 month service internals in the absolute beginning.

Originally Posted by GTO

Your car sure does look like its been used rough, but it's not too different from "beater cars (Beater Cars: The unsung heroes! And advantages of owning one)" which many BHPians have.

I'm sorry, what? I'd change the engine oil every year even if the car has just been sitting. I don't think BHPians run beater cars for 10 years without changing the engine oil.

OP, forget the suspension change, please change your engine oil. I have personally experienced one such occasion before this, again, a BHPian's 2014 Swift diesel, where the car had been driven 33k kms without changing the oil. Basically, his parents used the car for 5 odd years without getting it serviced, and we only learned about it when we both turned 18 and got our hands on the car. At that stage itself, what came out of the drain hole was pure gunk, so I shudder to think what'll be the situation in your case. Don't think about sludge formation in the engine, just do this first.

[brt_mhn]

Originally Posted by Rahul Bhalgat

Hi brt_mhn,

First of all, a running of around 61,000 km in 9 years does not call for a diesel car. It should have been petrol. Diesel car will be more expensive if your running is so limited. Petrol would have saved you more in the initial cost as well as the maintenance than extra money it would have demanded for the fuel.

Don’t look at me, no sir. I was 7 when we got the car. Besides, my father wanted the diesel for the extra power as he found it a little “underpowered”. Oils, indeed have not been changed. Each time a service centre said they would replace it, dad declined. I will check once again though. Yes, it does have a turbocharger. We will definitely get the fluids changed. The car will be picked up by the service centre tomorrow to begin suspension work. We will ask them to give a thorough check and replace the oils. Thank you for your inputs.

Originally Posted by boniver

At that stage itself, what came out of the drain hole was pure gunk, so I shudder to think what'll be the situation in your case. Don't think about sludge formation in the engine, just do this first.

Well, that sure seems scary. We will be dealing with this at priority.
Thanks.

[2000rpm]

When it comes to cars, I believe in "Brilliant Basics".

"Brilliant Basics" - Have in perfect condition - Tyres, Clutch, suspension, Brakes, Engine, Windshield and wipers

"Subtle art of not giving a @#$%" expenses - Park until cashflow is easy - minor scratches, alloy wheel upgrade, music system upgrade, leather car seats, comfort accessories.

"You live only once expenses" - Follow your heart - Engine tuning, Spoiler, etc. (there is more to life than KMPL approach)

I ensure that the Brilliant Basics are always at 100%.

[sagarpadaki]

Originally Posted by brt_mhn

Don’t look at me, no sir. I was 7 when we got the car. Besides, my father wanted the diesel for the extra power as he found it a little “underpowered”. Oils, indeed have not been changed. Each time a service centre said they would replace it, dad declined. I will check once again though. Yes, it does have a turbocharger. We will definitely get the fluids changed. The car will be picked up by the service centre tomorrow to begin suspension work. We will ask them to give a thorough check and replace the oils. Thank you for your inputs.
.

In a way I am happy that the Hyundai diesels are robust enough to continue to work with extended oil drain intervals. I am sure the service center mechanics will be in for a shock when they open the oil filter housing to replace the oil filter.

It is a miracle that the turbo charger has not gone bad with such old oil.

Looking forward to your updates on the car from the service center.

[brt_mhn]

Originally Posted by 2000rpm

When it comes to cars, I believe in "Brilliant Basics".

"Brilliant Basics" - Have in perfect condition - Tyres, Clutch, suspension, Brakes, Engine, Windshield and wipers


I ensure that the Brilliant Basics are always at 100%.

Well, yes. I agree very much too. Unfortunately, my dad and I seem to be polar opposites. Maybe a bit more of the kmpl approach will trickle in when I grow a little older. Still, being thrifty is never wrong.

Originally Posted by sagarpadaki

In a way I am happy that the Hyundai diesels are robust enough to continue to work with extended oil drain intervals. I am sure the service center mechanics will be in for a shock when they open the oil filter housing to replace the oil filter.

It is a miracle that the turbo charger has not gone bad with such old oil.

Looking forward to your updates on the car from the service center.

Ah yes. Wonder if they will ever recover from it. But yes, if anything this has served as a learning experience for my future ownership. Fighting against all odds and (hopefully) winning sure seems a whole lot of fun.

Thanks

[2000rpm]

Originally Posted by brt_mhn

Still, being thrifty is never wrong.

Thanks

Being thrifty at the cost of safety and reliability, will ensure you pay heavy towing charges some day. Also, as people see your car in the neighbourhood, noone will ever pay even market price for your car.

My car will sell at a premium in my neighbourhood since everyone who knows me, knows how I maintain my vehicles.

Maybe that aspect will help convince someone to be less thrifty.

[brt_mhn]

Originally Posted by 2000rpm

Being thrifty at the cost of safety and reliability, will ensure you pay heavy towing charges some day. Also, as people see your car in the neighbourhood, noone will ever pay even market price for your car.

My car will sell at a premium in my neighbourhood since everyone who knows me, knows how I maintain my vehicles.

Maybe that aspect will help convince someone to be less thrifty.

Of course. When I said being thrifty, I meant for cosmetic things like scratches. These can always be corrected just before selling off the car. I too agree that safety and reliability cannot be compromised with. When you compromise on them, it is called being miserly and not thrifty.

Thanks.