[veek]

So I reverse polarity the alternator-battery and a faint smoke was released. When I set it correctly the alternator makes a slight whining sound (no other electricals in vehicle) Right now I just get the display and battery multi-meter shows 11V or so (old battery, should read 12.25V).

Anyhow I am charging the battery right now with an external charger and wondering what to do? Any help on costing, availability of spares?

I live in Bangalore. (Can I fix this? Don't have any mechanical tools - multi-meter, a few screwdrivers, spanners. Don't use the car much as well; 1/2-3 months but parents want it.

[R2D2]

Originally Posted by veek

So I reverse polarity the alternator-battery and a faint smoke was released. Anyhow I am charging the battery right now with an external charger and wondering what to do? Any help on costing, availability of spares?

What part did the smoke come from? If you reversed the polarity (a very BIG no-no!) you may have blown an electrical component, maybe the rectifier/regulator. Just pray the ECU is OK.

[Indian2003]

Originally Posted by veek

So I reverse polarity the alternator-battery and a faint smoke was released.

First you should give more details of your car. I would think the diodes in the alternator are fried for sure. If the car is old, that should be the least of your problems.

With later models cars, you are looking at some serious cash to fix the car.

Dont try to fix the car yourself. You risk doing more damage.

[nik0502]

Hi veek,

Please start by looking for blown fuses. Something similar happened with my Gypsy couple of years back and all it took was one fuse to get the car started. If it’s not fuse than you might be looking at alternator and other parts.

[veek]

Originally Posted by Indian2003

You risk doing more damage.

What sort of Bill Of Materials are we looking at? Could you give me some idea what it would cost to fix.

Originally Posted by R2D2

What part did the smoke come from? If you reversed the polarity (a very BIG no-no!) you may have blown an electrical component, maybe the rectifier/regulator. Just pray the ECU is OK.

Seemed to come from inside. Sorry, wish I could be more specific but I actually concluded it wasn't serious because it was a thin trail [not an expert]. How would I even take it for repair.

Originally Posted by Indian2003

First you should give more details of your car. I would think the diodes in the alternator are fried for sure. If the car is old, that should be the least of your problems.

With later models cars, you are looking at some serious cash to fix the car.

Dont try to fix the car yourself. You risk doing more damage.

I used to build small amps/bridge rectifiers and such but I have 0 knowledge about car tools and parts. I need to figure out how to take it to the workshop first. That said, are there any books/resources for learning a lot more about Maruti 800 Car Servicing. [I dislike being lied to/getting cheated/indirection so, I'd prefer to know a lot more about why something is being done a certain way - could you advice on that?].


Note from Support: Please use QUOTE+/MULTI-QUOTE when responding to multiple posts. Dots removed.

[Indian2003]

Originally Posted by veek

What sort of Bill Of Materials are we looking at? Could you give me some idea what it would cost to fix..

Does your car have an ECU? What happens when you switch on the ignition? Does the battery lamp light up? Do any of the lamps light up?
Does the car start?

Asuming this is an old car without electronics and an alternator, your diodes might be fried. Then you will need to fit a new diode bridge and rectifier or get a new exchange alternator.

It looks like your alternator is not charging at all. If it did you would have measured at least 13,5V at the battery.
You should be shopping around for an alternator.

You might have gotten away if you just shorted the wire by mistake but it looks like you connected the cables to the battery.
You are also looking at a new battery.

A fully charged battery is at 12,7V and a dead battery at 11,7V. The difference between lif and death is only 1V.
At 11V, your battery has taken its last breath.

[R2D2]

Originally Posted by veek

seemed to come from inside.. sorry, wish I could be more specific but I actually concluded it wasn't serious because it was a thin trail.. [not an expert] How would I even take it for repair..

Ok since you're a tech experienced person in bridge rectifiers I think the best way to check for faults is to:
a) Switch on ignition and check any warning lights come on
b) Attempt to start the car - if the ECU is blown it will not start.
c) If the car starts take a DMM and measure the voltage at the battery terminals. It should be about 13.5-14.4 volts when the engine is idling.

Mind you if the car needs to be repaired it will have to be taken on a flatbed or a tow truck. You may be looking at a pretty large expense. For detailed info on costs & expected repair bill please contact DBHPian @Leoshashi. He'll guide you further.

[veek]

Originally Posted by R2D2

Ok since you're a tech experienced person in bridge rectifiers I think the best way to check for faults is to:
a) Switch on ignition and check any warning lights come on
b) Attempt to start the car - if the ECU is blown it will not start.
c) If the car starts take a DMM and measure the voltage at the battery terminals. It should be about 13.5-14.4 volts when the engine is idling.

Mind you if the car needs to be repaired it will have to be taken on a flatbed or a tow truck. You may be looking at a pretty large expense. For detailed info on costs & expected repair bill please contact DBHPian @Leoshashi. He'll guide you further.

when I turn the ignition - the display lights come on/turn red - battery red, handbrake red, etc but nothing else [i'll try again tomorrow - it's drizzling]

[R2D2]

Originally Posted by veek

when I turn the ignition - the display lights come on/turn red - battery red, handbrake red, etc but nothing else [i'll try again tomorrow - it's drizzling]

Those are the mini bulbs or LEDs in the display which are checking out ok. Does the engine start? If the engine doesn't start, I would recommend a trip to the service station for further diagnosis but as mentioned before please be prepared for a hefty repair bill. If you get away with a small repair charge consider yourself lucky.

Some cardinal rules with car electronics - Never, ever, reverse polarity or disconnect the battery with the engine running. Modern car electronics can either die or malfunction if you make these mistakes. Third rule, never compromise on wiring gauge or appropriate fuses for 3rd party accessories.

Good luck! Do let us know how it turns out.

[veek]

Originally Posted by Indian2003

Does your car have an ECU? What happens when you switch on the ignition? Does the battery lamp light up? Do any of the lamps light up?
Does the car start?

Asuming this is an old car without electronics and an alternator, your diodes might be fried. Then you will need to fit a new diode bridge and rectifier or get a new exchange alternator.

It looks like your alternator is not charging at all. If it did you would have measured at least 13,5V at the battery.
You should be shopping around for an alternator.

You might have gotten away if you just shorted the wire by mistake but it looks like you connected the cables to the battery.
You are also looking at a new battery.

A fully charged battery is at 12,7V and a dead battery at 11,7V. The difference between lif and death is only 1V.
At 11V, your battery has taken its last breath.

why does the battery die when you reverse battery polarity to alternator.. I took a look at this

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jdSKlg80DjU

diodes usually have a large Peak Inverse Voltage.. which causes them to open-circuit.. the junction basically vaporizes.. at worst the field windings or rotor windings will burn out..