[Taha Mir]

So I'm assuming that partially changing IAT green coolant is a big no no? By partial I mean 25-50% since it still looks bright green after 2-3 years.

[vishy76]

Originally Posted by Taha Mir

So I'm assuming that partially changing IAT green coolant is a big no no? By partial I mean 25-50% since it still looks bright green after 2-3 years.

Since it's already 2-3 years old, I would suggest you drain the entire coolant out and put fresh new coolant in. There's no point in partially replenishing coolant since it barely costs anything in the first place.

[SN88]

Originally Posted by vigsom

@SN88, Where did you get the green stuff added in your 2008 Honda City? At an FNG?

I've known Honda to have a blue long life coolant only. I'd recommend a replacement right away, only because you don't want to see the wrong coolant in. IAT to OAT is an upgrade, but the reverse is a downgrade.

Hi Vigsom, Correction to my post, the coolant was changed 10k kms prior, not 10 kms. yes it was a FNG. And if i remember the coolant before that was also green so I am not sure when did the change from blue to green happen or if it was always green.

Do you advise to change to blue now?

[vigsom]

Originally Posted by SN88

Do you advise to change to blue now?

Since the car has seen two cycles of green, I suggest you change back to blue after 10k kms after a proper DM water flush. Please ensure that all the old green stuff is removed (some residual coolant might remain to the tune of maybe 500ml or so but that is ok).

When I got my Grand Vitara in late 2014, I used Toyota Genuine Coolant in place of the already finished and dilute old green stuff, but the technician drained only from the radiator. Some coolant remained in the block. I eventually filled only 1 lit of Toyota concentrate and some 2 lit of water to create a mix, that is working very well even now. Just that the coolant in the radiator looks a little brown thanks to the mixing of the residual dilute green with the red Toyota coolant. But it feels super good with no sign of deterioration ( Toyota coolant is now a fluroscent pink while back then it was red).

[Sran]

Originally Posted by Jeroen

Why would that be? Mixing yourself can lead to incorrect ratio/dillution and you’re DM is unlikely to be as good as what is factory used for the pre-mix.

It is an old and much prevalent debate in auto world so to each his own. I am pretty sure we don't have to be precise to the point while mixing. One of the reasons of choosing concentrate over pre mix is radiator flushing which is required frequently on high mileage cars. Concentrates are easily flushable and remaining water is taken in account while refilling whereas remaining water dilutes the pre mix ones even more. In early days tampering was also somewhat more so quality was in doubt. Mechanics in my early driving days when we had ambassasor, willy, sumo and judo also vouched for concentrates over pre mixed ones and attributed over heating to using pre mixed coolant.

Maybe anecdotal but never faced over heating while using concentrates in those old vehicles and now it is engrained in my mind. We have widespread availability of distilled water all over the country so DM in not needed and have never heard about spurious distilled water.

[hserus]

Originally Posted by ike

So the ultra long life coolants (the one I have come across is yellow from Amsoil) is OAT or HOAT? It says it is suitable for all vehicles however my car usually takes in IAT (green) coolant..

Poly organic acid means oat and hoat because the o and a there are organic and acid

However this says Amsoil coolant also contains inorganic acid (!). If you want a different coolant get Valvoline green coolant concentrate, I have my fathers alto running on it after the existing coolant had to be drained out.

Originally Posted by SN88

Hi All

Following on my previous post that Honda asked me to change the coolant for my Honda city 2008 MT to blue coolant from green, I searched a couple of shops and all of them said Honda city 2008 used green not blue!!

What does the original manual that came with your car say? More than colour it will specify a particular type or standard of coolant, check for that rather than the SA assuring you only blue coolant is filled because they only stock that these days.

[123.rishabh]

Excellent Thread !

Originally Posted by vishy76

HOAT allows both to work in tandem, while offering excellent rust protection, very high B.P and low F.P and lasts beyond 5 years (up to 1.8L km in some cases).

- For a layman, the easiest way to distinguish a conventional coolant from a long-life coolant is that conventional coolant concentrate would look green and opaque, while long life coolant would be clear and most importantly, oily to touch

Hybrid Organic Acid technology coolants being oily in nature also helps a lot in terms of improving lubrication of parts like water pump etc.
I have seen a lot of people facing water pump issues in VAG cars due to the wrong Green (Inorganic Acid Technology) coolant being used.

In my opinion manufacturers should specifically mention the specific type of coolant under the Hood or at the Coolant expansion tank to reduce such issues.

[coolmel]

Originally Posted by vigsom

@coolmel, the coolant boost was just not necessary in an Etios, which already runs on Toyota Super Long Life coolant. I have no technical info on the product so can't comment.

Before using, I did consult Amsoil on the same and they clearly said it is safe to use with the Toyota coolant. And ill be honest, it has been a pleasant experience so far. I won't deny, it works but have to notice very closely.

[venkyhere]

https://extranetpli-eu.pli-petronas....7_stec_ENG.pdf

"based on ethylene glycol and organic corrosion inhibitors"

is this IAT or HOAT ? or something else ?

[WizSatish]

Very informative and crisp read. Thanks for the info.

[mmxylorider]

One of the advantages of getting the oil change done at the dealer is that the fluids get topped off and the right ones (manufacturer driven) are used. No worrying about the color or ratio and very easy to verify post the service. I did buy the Toyota pink coolant to keep at home since the running was heavy and summers are harsh. Ended up donating half the bottle to another Toyota owner.

[vigsom]

Originally Posted by venkyhere

https://extranetpli-eu.pli-petronas....7_stec_ENG.pdf

"based on ethylene glycol and organic corrosion inhibitors"

is this IAT or HOAT ? or something else ?

I just found this. To me it looks like equivalent to the Toyota HOAT Super long life coolant.
1687_scat_ENG.pdf

[norhog]

So based on IAT, OAT and HOAT, which are the Indian brands offering those?

Thank you.

[Jeroen]

Originally Posted by Sran

It is an old and much prevalent debate in auto world so to each his own. I am pretty sure we don't have to be precise to the point while mixing. One of the reasons of choosing concentrate over pre mix is radiator flushing which is required frequently on high mileage cars. Concentrates are easily flushable and remaining water is taken in account while refilling whereas remaining water dilutes the pre mix ones even more. In early days tampering was also somewhat more so quality was in doubt. Mechanics in my early driving days when we had ambassasor, willy, sumo and judo also vouched for concentrates over pre mixed ones and attributed over heating to using pre mixed coolant.

Each to its own as you say. But be careful with concentrate for several reasons. Ethylene glycol is extremely poisonous, it gets absorbed trough the skin, so you really ought to take precautions when handling it. Inhalation can cause dizziness and worse, so you need to ensure you are doing this outside or in a properly vented garage/workshop.

OAT based fluids needs to checked against manufacturer safety specification on any health hazards and precautions whilst working with them.

Depending on your paint/cooling fluid, concentrate when spilled can cause paint damage. (The glycol based tend to be the worse).

Getting the ratio in the mix a bit off is not a problem. Too high or too low is a problem as the fluid won’t cool properly either way, has less corrosive prevention working, or actually accelerate corrosion.

So call me lazy, but I consider pre-mix coolant fluid pretty neat!

Originally Posted by Sran

We have widespread availability of distilled water all over the country so DM in not needed and have never heard about spurious distilled water.

In a country where even the regular bottle water can be, and often is, suspect I think you might want to pay more attention to it.

(e.g. we had a massive scam going on in our Gurgaon office with the office water bottles, turned out to be tap water)

Here at TeamBHP we have our own dedicated thread of course:

https://www.team-bhp.com/forum/techn...ml#post3876626 (Distilled Water : A scam running?)

Read and weep, members were buying demineralised water which turned out to be just regular tap water too.

Originally Posted by 123.rishabh

In my opinion manufacturers should specifically mention the specific type of coolant under the Hood or at the Coolant expansion tank to reduce such issues.

Many do I believe, on the expansion tank on my cars for instance.

Originally Posted by mmxylorider

One of the advantages of getting the oil change done at the dealer is that the fluids get topped off and the right ones (manufacturer driven) are used. r.

Lets be clear about one thing: Coolant fluid does not need topping off! If you find it on your bill, you have been scammed, or your dealer is incompetent. If the coolant fluid is low it means there is a leak.

The only reason to top off, is whilst on the road and you find the level is low, it might get your home, better yet to a competent dealer. He/she would not top off, but investigate why it is low in the first place!

Jeroen

[hserus]

Originally Posted by Jeroen

If the coolant fluid is low it means there is a leak.

If you just switched off your engine and parked it at the service center and he says the level in the expansion tank is a bit low, the remaining coolant is probably inside the radiator?