[NaXal]

Cross posting another battery related thread,

Originally Posted by NaXal

My 2017 Aspire Titanium TDCi (Diesel) is at Ford ASC for some suspension rattle (noise) related issue.

While they work on that problem, Service Advisor has come back with an update about my battery. As per their checks, it's in its last leg & to avoid being stranded, I should consider replacing ASAP.

It's around 3.5 (30k kms) years old & till date I haven't seen any sign of battery related issue.

I wonder what's going on. It seems like batteries now days come with some Apple like chip So many members here have posted about this 4 year time frame for battery needing replacement. Regardless of their different usage patterns

P.S. My stock battery is from "Ford". Completely white outer casing with a single Ford Logo !!

PPS. Does anyone know what's the amp/ah specifications for Ford Figo Aspire Diesel battery? I checked the manual, I there is nothing mentioned apart from 12v. Service Center guys are speaking about 390 CCA (unconventional battery measurement unit). Quick Google search about CCA to amp/ah is pointing to 54ah where as battery suggestion website (like battery wale or battery bhai is suggesting 44/45ah batteries)

Now that was back in September 2020 and fast forward to present, that’s January 2021, my Aspire is due for its scheduled yearly service tomorrow.

I borrowed a multi meter from someone and checked. Following are the results,

Car is seating idle for 4/5 days, battery volt is around 12.25/35/45 or such.
Cranking leads to voltage drop to around 9.45/55 or such.

Drove the car for 10/15 mins and checked again,

Now the cranking is leading to drop of voltage value to 10.25/10.35 !!

Question is,

Should I really need to worry and change the battery tomorrow at ASC or take some risk by asking them to do a service of battery (water n specific gravity) and keep it running !!

[NPV]

Originally Posted by NPV

Replaced the stock Amaron battery of the Swift Dzire Vxi this morning.

Yesterday morning when I tried cranking up the car, found that the battery had died. I hadn't started the car in a week during the current lockdown/curfew.

Another good experience overall with the Amaron battery, it has lasted 5.5 years since I had bought and installed it back in November 2015.

Called my regular battery shop owner and he mentioned that he will be getting stock next week only and his shop currently remains closed due to lockdown.

[Indian2003]

Originally Posted by NaXal

Cross posting another battery related thread,
Car is seating idle for 4/5 days, battery volt is around 12.25/35/45 or such.
Cranking leads to voltage drop to around 9.45/55 or such.

Drove the car for 10/15 mins and checked again,

Now the cranking is leading to drop of voltage value to 10.25/10.35 !!

At 12,25V your battery is only at 50% charge. Acceptable voltage drop is at least 10V. You drove the car for 15 minutes and the voltage drop was 10,35V.

This is normal with surface charge but says nothing about the state of your battery. You need to wait 24 hours after a charge or drive before checking for voltage drop.

You can also turn on your headlights for 5 minutes just after a drive before checking to get the correct figures.

[clevermax]

Take it out of the car, connect it to your home inverter system, and charge it.

Because of the present scenario, many car batteries are running low on charge and most users simply replace the batteries thinking that the battery's service life is over.

It happened in my case too - one fine day the car failed to start. Since it was a 3.5-year-old battery, I suspected that the battery has gone kaput.

Anyhow, I decided to give it a chance. So I took the battery out and connected it with the home inverter system using the jump-start cables, and gave it a boost charge for about 3 hours. My inverter has a high-current mode that charges the battery quicker than usual.

The car had no problems starting up after I connected the charged battery back. Now it has been almost 6 weeks and the battery is still healthy. The car usage was very minimal during this period but still, it has no problems starting up.

[adisan]

On my regularly used car, the sign that the battery needed replacement came when the car began to need A pedal input to start when cranking. This was occasional, not each time.

The ASC confirmed that it needs to be replaced after checking.

[joybhowmik]

It's late onset of chilly weather here in Delhi. My Glanza isn't used much these days, so it was no surprise when it did not crank early in the morning; temps were in between 7-8 Celcius at the time.

I got the OEM Exide out of the car (34B19LMF), and charged it to capacity at home.

Then, I called the Exide Batmobile guy over and got him to measure the sp. gravity of the electrolyte—his verdict: these are on the lower side (3 of the 5 cells at 1.150, two at 1.100—lower than the acceptable minimum at full charge: 1.25).

Min. Voltage at Crank was observed at 8.21 V and voltage across terminals ~12.48 V. (see: link to video)

Is it really time to replace, or can I risk eking out another couple of months—maybe wait until the winter's over?

[Aroy]

Originally Posted by joybhowmik

It's late onset of chilly weather here in Delhi. My Glanza isn't used much these days, so it was no surprise when it did not crank early in the morning; temps were in between 7-8 Celcius at the time.

I............................

Min. Voltage at Crank was observed at 8.21 V and voltage across terminals ~12.48 V. (see: link to video)

Is it really time to replace, or can I risk eking out another couple of months—maybe wait until the winter's over?

A dodgy battery will act up in winters, so it is best to change it if there is a problem in cranking in the morning. Otherwise wait till the battery is gone.

If you have a battery charger, try charging the battery for 10-15 hours. That may give it a few months of extra life. Some chargers have a "repair" mode which I have found to be quite convenient especially for a battery at the end of its life.