[rreddy18]

Hi All,

I am owning a Maruti Swift VDI 2007 model and I am planning to buy a new car after exchanging my existing car. I went to a couple of dealers and they found that the chassis number or VIN has gotten completely rusted and they were telling that they cannot purchase this car and it has to be scrapped (or use for another 5 years till the 15 years time line is over and scrap the car). There is no way I can sell this car as per them.

Please let me know what options I have. The car has no problems except the rusting at a few places.

Thanks in advance.

[R2D2]

The chassis number is required for a 'trace' when transferring to the next owner OR for re-registration. So you will need it when re-registering the car in 5 years. No two ways around this requirement. Generally when VIN/chassis number is illegible people fear the worst thinking it's a stolen car.

Try having the rusted area cleaned off with some rust remover. May be that will clear the rusted area at least partially so the information can be read.

[Mr.Boss]

Can you post a snap? Which area is rusted, VIN plate or the body itself (where the VIN number is punched)?

In both cases M.A.S.S could help (same as accident cases)

[R2D2]

Originally Posted by Mr.Boss

Can you post a snap? Which area is rusted, VIN plate or the body itself (where the VIN number is punched)? In both cases M.A.S.S could help (same as accident cases)

Just FYI, the RTO always needs the VIN that is embossed on the chassis (and if required the engine # on the engine block too) for registration/re-registration and transfers. They do not accept the VIN plate.

I had to re-register my Palio 1.6 and went through this process in Jan '17 about 2 weeks before the RC expired.

[dkamath]

I have gone through the same "challenge" during renewal of the registration certificate of our Kinetic scooter, during it's 15th and 20th year renewal processes. The chassis number was/is embossed in a sheet metal plate, under the floor pan, and the coastal weather had nearly destroyed the imprints. The person I had sought help for renewal during the 15th year, had got a similar plate done (with the chassis number embossed over it) and welded at the earlier location. The area needed to be sanded off during the 20th year renewal, and the scooter has made it through, then too
Am unaware of the setup on the car, and hence unsure of the modalities in order to get a similar work done on your car. Posted my story here, just in case it could ignite a ray of hope for you, that there is a still a way/path to explore.

Cheers!

[Mr.Boss]

Originally Posted by R2D2

Just FYI, the RTO always needs the VIN that is embossed on the chassis (and if required the engine # on the engine block too) for registration/re-registration and transfers. They do not accept the VIN plate.

Sorry for being OT.
At least in TN VIN tracing (even the physical vehicle) is not required for transfer. Agreed on the registration and partly on re-registration process though (Speaking from my own experience)

[GTO]

Originally Posted by rreddy18

I went to a couple of dealers and they found that the chassis number or VIN has gotten completely rusted

This is a common problem with 10+ year old cars; in fact, many Swifts & Dzires are affected by it.

Agreed with Mr. Boss. Go visit your authorised Maruti workshop (preferably where she was serviced earlier). Doubt they'll have a stamping machine, but they'll surely guide you in the right direction.

Doesn't the Swift have another VIN plate? That - and supporting documents - can be used to prove authenticity.

[gkveda]

VIN Plates are usually made of Aluminium. I am surprised to hear that it is rusted.

Please share the pictures !

[Mr.Boss]

Originally Posted by gkveda

VIN Plates are usually made of Aluminium. I am surprised to hear that it is rusted.

I assume OP is talking about the VIN punched on the BIW itself, not the VIN plate.

[rreddy18]

Sorry for the delay , here is the snap

[Mr.Boss]

Originally Posted by rreddy18

Sorry for the delay , here is the snap

At least the last few (unique) digits are safe. I'm sure M.A.S.S can get the panel repaired (replaced under the worst case) and VIN can be repunched.

[R2D2]

Originally Posted by rreddy18

Sorry for the delay , here is the snap

Corrosion looks pretty serious in some parts of the affected area.

First, take off the loose flakes with a rag. Spray WD40 or Rustolene liberally over the rust affected area, wait for a few minutes and wipe clean. Check if that makes the VIN legible. You may need to use fine sandpaper or emery paper for the finishing touches.

[Sankar]

Originally Posted by rreddy18

Sorry for the delay , here is the snap

VIN should be the least of the worries in this car. That part is seriously corroded and it looks like top of strut tower (called: suspension upper bracket). Used car dealers are hesitant in purchasing this car not because of corroded VIN but because of the work they need to do to make it sale worthy.

This area is a structural part and it is available as a spare from Maruti. Since it is available as spare the Maruti ASS can take care of stamping the VIN on freshly replaced part. So VIN is not the issue here but the amount of work to make this car roadworthy again before its sold. Along with the upper piece fender apron may also need to be replaced which they can only confirm after thorough inspection.

[i74js]

OT

Does this kind of poor quality / corrosion is specific to MSIL? I have a Ford Escort (Aug 1997) and these numbers at 3 locations are all intact

- Engine Bay (Confirming manufactured by Mahindra Ford India Limited with VIN & Engine number)

- Passenger foot-well (VIN)

- Right lower side of front windshield (VIN)

The engine bay sheet is riveted (seems aluminium) and shines even now. The balance 2 locations are equally good.

Does this not reflect on the product quality / white body produced by Maruti?

[Mr.Boss]

Originally Posted by i74js

OT

Does this kind of poor qualit

It looks like the effect of clogged rain / drain gutters below the windshield.