[amrisharm]

Originally Posted by sagarpadaki

Brake and clutch systems share the brake fluid from the common reservoir

That explains the situation I faced. Good to know. Thank you

[madhukarsingh]

I have a Ford figo 2012 diesel which has done 98000 kms. I had replaced the clutch plate assembly at 92000 kms. These days when i am drin=ving in very heavy traffic at crawling speed for 2-3 kms, the clutch gradually becomes hard and then suddenly becomes soft again after sometime. There is no problem in driving, acceleration.

[imzahid]

The clutch of my 2013 3rd gen Honda City has suddenly gotten way lighter. It works very smoothly. The clutch engagement and pickup feels absolutely fine though. What could be the possible cause of this?

[imzahid]

Originally Posted by imzahid

The clutch of my 2013 3rd gen Honda City has suddenly gotten way lighter. It works very smoothly. The clutch engagement and pickup feels absolutely fine though. What could be the possible cause of this?

Okay so before I could get a response on this, disaster struck. My car completely stopped moving when in gear. I can slot the 1st gear but the clutch is not engaging. To make matters worse, my car is in the 3rd basement three levels below the earth. Kindly help me detect the issue.

[niks4568]

Need urgent help from fellow BHPians.
Car - 2017 Creta 1.6 CRDI
ODO - 29k
I bought it pre-owned when the ODO was 21k in December 2021. It is sitting at Gomechanic garage in Bangalore. They have suggested clutch overhaul. The reason for seeking advice is I never felt the clutch was hard or had any slippages. Could someone please suggest:
1) Isn't 29k/5 years early for clutch overhaul? The car has been driven in tier 2 city for 4 years and 1 year in Bangalore.
2) The cost shared by them is Clutch assembly (11800), Releaser Bearing (2200), Clutch master cylinder (4400), Slave cylinder (3280) and labor (3000) - Total 25k. Is this proper?
3) Does it make sense to make the repair at the Gomechanic garage or is it better to take the car to Hyundai service center for this repair?

As I never had any issues with the clutch for the duration the car has been with me, I am just surprised with this propping up by the Gomechanic garage. Even the Hyundai service center didn't say anything about it the last time I took my car for a checkup (January 2022).
I have a few long trips coming up with family so want to be on a safer side. Any suggestion would be really helpful.

[trinity0114]

Originally Posted by niks4568

3) Does it make sense to make the repair at the Gomechanic garage or is it better to take the car to Hyundai service center for this repair?

As I never had any issues with the clutch for the duration the car has been with me, I am just surprised with this propping up by the Gomechanic garage

Avoid this gomechanic garage by all means, first of all clutch life matters totally on how the car is driven, it can be 20k KM's or even 1 lakh+ KM's, keeping that aside let's assume there's some issue with your clutch but it's mostly unlikely that driving plate + driven plate, release bearing both hydraulic cylinders basically all the parts of the clutch system have gone bad at the same time. They're trying to rip you off and I suggest you go to a reputed independent Garage for a second opinion

[drsachin]

Avoid this Gomechanic workshop.....Last year I got all these parts changed at a Gomechanic workshop in my Hyundai Verna crdi 1.6litres, which shares most clutch parts with creta. Parts were procured from spare part shop by me costed me Rs 7600 for OES parts, Rs 2000 charged by service centre.

Slave and master cylinder are changed only if they are leaking from visual inspection, like in my case ...

The cost of release bearing quoted here is more then the Hyundai OEM and anyway these Gomechanic workshops always use OES parts not OEM

[airguitar]

My Creta (Diesel) 2016 model has done 89000 kms, and the clutch is getting very hard. No clutch replacement has happened so far, but the SA asked me to change the clutch within 2000kms, but not really enough information on what happens if I don't as I don't really see violent vibrations etc that one would associate with a failing clutch ( I have experienced these on my older swift where it becomes impossible to shift to certain gears and earthquaky vibrations ).

Assuming I'm ok with the hardness ( doesn't bother me too much with a good sneaker on ), Should I take his advice seriously in this case? Is there such a thing as a clutch failure on cars ( especially the modern ones ) ?

[Samba]

Originally Posted by airguitar

My Creta (Diesel) 2016 model has done 89000 kms, and the clutch is getting very hard.

It's due to the wear and tear of the pressure plate. If you are okay with the hard pedal, you can keep driving. Clutch wont fail just like that. A clutch gives enough signal before a failure. There will be clutch slippage, juddering while releasing the clutch, mileage will drop, loss in pickup. The only thing that can fail without giving any prior warning is the slave cylinder in a Hydraulic clutch. But that can happen anytime, not related to the wear and tear of the clutch plate.

My friends who is a Bhpian too, had a hard clutch in his Jazz IDtec. Honda advised him to change the clutch at 90,000 km. I told him to keep driving. Finally he changed the clutch at 160,000 km! Unless it becomes a comfort issue for you, you can continue with the current clutch.

[kavensri]

Originally Posted by Samba

My friends who is a Bhpian too, had a hard clutch in his Jazz IDtec. Honda advised him to change the clutch at 90,000 km. I told him to keep driving. Finally he changed the clutch at 160,000 km! Unless it becomes a comfort issue for you, you can continue with the current clutch.

Almost in the similar condition with my Liva diesel. SA had asked me to change the Clutch at 70k kms and I am still driving with the stock clutch and my ODO is at 125k kms now.

[sagarpadaki]

Originally Posted by airguitar

My Creta (Diesel) 2016 model has done 89000 kms, and the clutch is getting very hard. No clutch replacement has happened so far, but the SA asked me to change the clutch within 2000kms, but not really enough information on what happens if I don't as I don't really see violent vibrations etc that one would associate with a failing clutch ( I have experienced these on my older swift where it becomes impossible to shift to certain gears and earthquaky vibrations ).

Assuming I'm ok with the hardness ( doesn't bother me too much with a good sneaker on ), Should I take his advice seriously in this case? Is there such a thing as a clutch failure on cars ( especially the modern ones ) ?

If you are willing to spend some money, get the gearbox removed, clean the gearbox cavity of all the clutch dust. Use compressed air to blow away the dust from the clutch plate and pressure plate. Grease the below parts
-> Gear box Input shaft on which the release bearing slides into.
-> The clutch fork pivot and contact points.

With this the clutch action will become pretty smooth and hardness will reduce. It is a labor-intensive job involving removing the driveshaft, draining the gear oil, removing the gear box, cleaning everything and fixing them back. So, you might end up paying couple of thousand rupees in labor.

Also, check the bite point of the clutch, If the clutch engages towards the top end of the clutch travel, then it is almost at the end of its life and doing the above steps will not help. Only if the clutch engages at the bottom 50% of the clutch travel, the above cleaning and greasing will help.

[airguitar]

Originally Posted by sagarpadaki

Also, check the bite point of the clutch, If the clutch engages towards the top end of the clutch travel, then it is almost at the end of its life and doing the above steps will not help. Only if the clutch engages at the bottom 50% of the clutch travel, the above cleaning and greasing will help.

The bitepoint isn't at the top - it still engages only below the 50% mark.

Re cleaning up the gear, I'm just worried about the incompetency of the some of the advisors ( although generally speaking that has never been the case with Hyundai ), but seeing how clueless many Mahindra guys are, I'm now terrified of handing any of my cars for such major/labor intensive work. Let me bring this up at the ASC next week.

I have major expenses coming up on the Creta ( tyre change etc ), so was hoping to push out the Clutch thing until it's absolutely necessary.

[sagarpadaki]

Originally Posted by airguitar

The bitepoint isn't at the top - it still engages only below the 50% mark.

Re cleaning up the gear, I'm just worried about the incompetency of the some of the advisors ( although generally speaking that has never been the case with Hyundai ), but seeing how clueless many Mahindra guys are, I'm now terrified of handing any of my cars for such major/labor intensive work. Let me bring this up at the ASC next week.

I have major expenses coming up on the Creta ( tyre change etc ), so was hoping to push out the Clutch thing until it's absolutely necessary.

If the bite point is below the 50% mark, then doing the above steps might be worth it.

Most probably, HASS will not agree for this labor only job since it does not provide them much profits in parts. You can check with a good FNG who is willing to do this. Most will say it will not make much difference in the clutch hardness. So it is a matter of convincing them to do the job.

Here is a video in Tamil for Verna 1.6D which shows what points have to be greased. Watch the whole video. It is easy to understand from the visuals the steps in a clutch change. The parts and design will be same for Creta as well

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Z_py_8v9pGI

Move to 10 minute mark to check what has to be greased.

[MT_Hyderabad]

Facing a peculiar problem on my wife's Santro.

The clutch was replaced around 5000 kms back.

From the day the clutch was replaced, I have observed this problem.

When I am cold starting the car, the car shudders when the rpms are low. If I donot increase the rpm, the car dies out.

This shuddering only happens in the morning. The car is rarely driven, may be twice a week. Total of around 50 kms per week.

If I increase the rpms after cranking, it just drives smoothly. After 5 minute drive, this shuddering doesn't happen in that day.

As this happened just after clutch replacement, I doubt it is related to clutch. What it could be?

During clutch replacement, car's idle rpms were also tweaked; as there is no rpm indicator on the car, could it be due to that?

[PearlJam]

Hi, I've started facing some amount of clutch slippage only in higher gears (5th and 6th), and only on hard acceleration. There's absolutely no problem at lower speeds and in city driving in general. The gear shifts are as smooth as it was and there are no shudders. The car has done around 75k Kms on stock clutch.

Assuming only city drives, any recommendations on whether I should wait for this to worsen, or whether I should fix this immediately? Any idea if this will be a slow degrade (hence giving me time), or whether it will be a rapid degradation from here? In short, could there still be a lot of life remaining in the clutch? Thanks!