[chiranjitp]

Originally Posted by rohan_iitr

My i10 1.1 irde is 9 years old now and currently at 45k kms.

It does seem that you need to get your clutch replaced. I have access to two 1st gen i10s (one is with the irde engine & the other one is with the kappa engine), both of them had to get their clutch replaced around the 50k km mark. The clutch on the kappa powered car didn't get to a state where the car would judder while starting off in 1st gear, the clutch in this case was replaced due to increased hardness.

Whereas the irde powered car showed the exact juddering symptom like your car, I really had to increase the revs to stop/decrease the judder while starting off. Clutch replacement at a Hyundai authorized service center should cost you around 8-10k.

[witwat]

Originally Posted by witwat

Hello all! Going through a tough time analysing the problem. Hope to find some solution here.
============
Just wondering if any had similar experiences or possible solutions here. I would be visiting the service centre again but need some clarity to explain or get the issue fixed. TIA

* UPDATE *

Finally found the issue. Meanwhile, I was lucky enough to stumble upon this video (shared below) and was very informative

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=devo3kdSPQY

Understanding the system of how a clutch works, and relating my issue to the experience occurring from a faulty spring in a "push-dot ballpoint pen" I had a strong feeling of error in the "spring system" involved to engage a gear. Having felt so, I visited the FASS again and asked them to open the clutch assembly to inspect the same. Having opened the assembly, they witnessed the coil spring to be broken as seen in the pictures below.

However, from the FASS opinion, the clutch plates are still fine since they seem to have more life in them but the coil spring in between had been broken either due to the incidental damage occurring from the pressure plate or engine power flow fluctuation.

Meanwhile, I am on way to reach the service center to collect the vehicle with a deep thought why was the master cylinder replaced in the first place!

Sharing this update if in any case can help other motoring enthusiasts.

[Ashutosh30]

Friends, I own a Wagon R Petrol, Feb.2015 registered with 23 k on the odo. During one of my highway drives last week, it seemed to me as if the clutch was slipping. When I noticed this, I tried to concentrate and find out when/where/how was it exactly happening.

The road that I as driving on was not flat but sloping up and down and up again every couple of hundreds of metres. What I realised was, as I was trying to drive at a steady speed of 80 kmph in 5th gear. Every time I reached an up-slope I would increase the throttle to maintain that 80 and then as the road would flatten out, or start sloping down I had to reduce the accelerator input. It was exactly at this point that I felt like the clutch was slipping since the RPM would shoot up quite a bit, to about 3500-4000 without corresponding increase in speed. (Wagon R does 80 kmph @ 2600 in 5th gear on flat roads with 2 pax on-board)

I experienced the above happening about 5-6 times thereafter after which I reduced speed a bit and lumbered on easily without trying to maintain that constant 80kmph
on up-slopes.

My car is still in warranty and scheduled service was due today. I mentioned the above occurrence to the SA and requested him for a test drive. He could not make out anything neither did I feel the clutch slip as he drove around and tried various manoeuvres. I must mention here that during the last week after the highway incident, I had been keeping a close watch on the clutch during my city drives and did not feel any such slippage during the whole week.

Ok, so now I tell the SA about this assumed slippage and he notes it down and informed me that they will check during the vehicle service. Later I get a call from him saying there is indeed a problem with the clutch and the CLUTCH PLATE and PRESSURE PLATE need to be replaced. And since both of these are wear-and-tear items, this will not be covered under warranty. I have been given a quote of approx..Rs.7000 for the above works.

I need your advice / opinions on the above issue. I am taking the SA’s advice with a pinch of salt since I have already been conned once about 6-7 years back with a clutch issue. Maruti ALTO was my 1st car and I did not have much experience with mechanicals. I was advised that the clutch felt hard and needs to be overhauled. I was charged a hefty amount for the work and after doing so did not feel any perceptible difference in operating the clutch after the overhaul was done.

So now I don’t want to be caught in the same situation again and request your help. What do you make of my above issue? do the clutch plate and pressure plate really need replacement at 23 k and why is it not covered under warranty? I have attached a photo from my Warranty booklet where it talks about the schedule of parts covered. It does say that Clutch centre plate, pressure plate (cover) etc. are covered. I fail to understand what is meant by ‘cover’ in brackets. Only the “cover” is covered under warranty and not the pressure plate itself ??...Also the underlined passage ( failure due to worn or burnt out clutches are not covered) what does that mean, how do I prove that I drive sedately with correct techniques ! So whenever there is a problem with the clutch, they can always say that the problem is due to burntout clutch and refuse to cover it under warranty. It means they will never cover any clutch trouble under warranty and make me pay for it. If this is the case, why do I get my scheduled servicing done on time at MASS if they do not honour warranty. Am I missing something here? Please guide me Mates since my car lies at the service centre and SA waits for me to take a call.

Regards, Ashutosh.

[Shanksta]

Fellow BHPians my '09 Innova has currently done 1.2lakh kms. I have noticed a little judder while setting off in 1st gear without throttle input for the past month. This happens only in 1st gear after the first start/cold start of the day and after 2kms once everything has warmed up it becomes smooth like stock. The clutch pedal has become a little hard compared to when the car was new.

But I do not have any other symptoms, no slipping or loss of power while accelerating. The car performs as it should and infact mileage has been improving over time. It is still the Original clutch. Is this judder during cold start also an indication of the 'end of life' of the clutch?

[parulkgupta]

Hi

I have a honda jazz 2012, 52 kkm on the odo. I drive about 80km everyday in delhi traffic these days.

In the last few weeks I feel the clutch has become very stiff to depress. So much so that now my entire left leg from the hip to toe aches continuously.

Several mechanics including HASS assure me the clutch is alrite, but comparing it with a brand new car tells me this is very stiff.

I am thinking of replacing my car with an automatic one. Is.it worth replacing my clutch? Guess it would cost around 25k. What's your view?

[Traveler]

I am not sure if the Jazz has a hydraulic clutch or not. If it has then please change the clutch fluid and you feel feel a great change. If it is not hydraulic then it is possible for the clutch wire to have hardened over the years. You could get that replaced and check.

[OSH]

Originally Posted by parulkgupta

I have a honda jazz 2012, 52 kkm on the odo. In the last few weeks I feel the clutch has become very stiff to depress.

Hondas need their brake/clutch fluid to be changed every 3 years. Your 2012 bought car should have gone through two changes till date, was this done ?

If yes, then I suspect air in the system. Ask the service center to bleed the clutch and brakes once again. After the bleeding is done, be sure to check that the fluid quantity is just a notch below the max marking on your reservoir.

If no, then change the fluid at the earliest because in Hondas the clutch fluid is used for the brakes as well. If I'm not wrong, the Jazz has only one reservoir in the engine bay for this fluid and it shares it with both the brake channels and clutch.

There is no cable operation for the clutch so you cannot adjust anything in the Jazz, so if it is not the oil then chances are the clutch components are acting up.

Honda uses DOT 3 or DOT 4 brake fluid depending on the vehicle and it costs ~320 rupees for a 500 ml bottle, it is a red coloured bottle with a black cap. Please check your owner's manual for the correct spec fluid.

[rohan_iitr]

Originally Posted by rohan_iitr

My i10 1.1 irde is 9 years old now and currently at 45k kms.

The clutch has become hard to press.

The car judders when starting in 1st gear (without accelerator input). With accelerator input, there is no juddering.

Is it time to replace the clutch ?

Please note that I have learnt driving on this car and may have abused the clutch in my learning days. Also, traffic in Bangalore city is very bad.

Rohan

So I got the clutch replaced at HASS along with the routine service.

Clutch replacement cost came to 5k including parts and labour. Pretty reasonable, I'd say.

The new clutch feels ridiculously light.

Rohan

[RBT]

Originally Posted by parulkgupta

I have a honda jazz 2012, 52 kkm on the odo. I drive about 80km everyday in delhi traffic these days.

The clutch becoming hard in the number of kilometres you've done is likely because of a faulty slave cylinder. Two things to be done: Replace slave cylinder and replace (and thoroughly bleed) clutch fluid. That should solve the issue.

[Jeroen]

Originally Posted by RBT

The clutch becoming hard in the number of kilometres you've done is likely because of a faulty slave cylinder. Two things to be done: Replace slave cylinder and replace (and thoroughly bleed) clutch fluid. That should solve the issue.

Why would a faulty slave cylinder make a clutch go hard? Its a very simple part that typically works, or it leaks, but making the clutch hard?? could you please explain?
Jeroen

[saratjyo]

Originally Posted by rohan_iitr

So I got the clutch replaced at HASS along with the routine service.

Just 5k? I did a clutch replacement last month in my i10 1.2 Kappa (2011) which has completed 70k in odo. It came 11k for me in the bill..!

[honeybee]

Originally Posted by RBT

The clutch becoming hard in the number of kilometres you've done is likely because of a faulty slave cylinder. Two things to be done: Replace slave cylinder and replace (and thoroughly bleed) clutch fluid. That should solve the issue.

Most likely the release bearing is gone, or the pressure plate has hardened with age.

[rohan_iitr]

Originally Posted by saratjyo

Just 5k? I did a clutch replacement last month in my i10 1.2 Kappa (2011) which has completed 70k in odo. It came 11k for me in the bill..!

The service advisor gave a quote of 9k for the clutch replacement.

The scam is that actual parts + labour comes to 5k only (for 1.1L model). For the remaining 4k, they try to slip in unwanted jobs like engine flushing, decarbonization, AC neutralization etc (which I declined).

Finally when the customer receives the bill, he is relieved that the bill is within the (already exaggerated) estimated amount.

Rohan

[Engine_Roars]

Hi Guys, need your help.

Car Details - Hundai Xcent(Petrol). 2014 Make. 41000 Driven. No major work done so far. Majorly driven in peak hours office traffic almost daily for 25 KMS. Gave it for its yearly maintenance service to Hyundai A.S.S., SA pressed the pedal and said clutch needs replacement because pedal is hard to press. There is also a noise coming from pedal when I depress it, krr krr noise, if it helps. Estimated cost - 13500 Rs.

I am not very convinced on the clutch replacement theory.Two questions:
1. Does hard pedal really points towards clutch assembly gone bad?
2. What if I don't get clutch assembly replacement done now? What can go wrong?

Any help is much appreciated.

Thanks,

[parulkgupta]

Originally Posted by OSH

Hondas need their brake/clutch fluid to be changed every 3 years. Your 2012 bought car should have gone through two changes till date, was this done ?

If yes, then I suspect air in the system. Ask the service center to bleed the clutch and brakes once again. After the bleeding is done, be sure to check that the fluid quantity is just a notch below the max marking on your reservoir.

If no, then change the fluid at the earliest because in Hondas the clutch fluid is used for the brakes as well. If I'm not wrong, the Jazz has only one reservoir in the engine bay for this fluid and it shares it with both the brake channels and clutch.

There is no cable operation for the clutch so you cannot adjust anything in the Jazz, so if it is not the oil then chances are the clutch components are acting up.

Honda uses DOT 3 or DOT 4 brake fluid depending on the vehicle and it costs ~320 rupees for a 500 ml bottle, it is a red coloured bottle with a black cap. Please check your owner's manual for the correct spec fluid.

The pain was excruciating and I decided to pay whatever to took to get the clutch softer. Went to classic honda faridabad (sterling honda) and asked them to check the clutch thoroughly. I was told it would take around 16k to get it replaced and it would butter smooth. And I was told the clutch was actually very hard and I should change. I decided to go for it. Finally it was done for around 8000 and the clutch is now 100 times softer to press.

Attached bill first item labor, after that parts.