[IndigoXLGrandDi]

Does the downshifting and the resulting RPM to be <3000-3500 is applicable to all cars or varies on following factors--
1) Diesel and Petrol,
2) Turbocharged and Non-Turbocharged,
3) Direct Injection and Indirect Injection,
4) Common Rail.

[Dieseldunk]

Folks

How many of us do use clutch in reversing (riding the clutch/half clutch/slip the clutch) whatever . I feel in the Swift VDI the reverse gear is quicker than other cars. so I tend to ride the clutch (my reversing distance is hardly a few metres)

Cheers
Prasad

[honeybee]

Originally Posted by IndigoXLGrandDi

Does the downshifting and the resulting RPM to be <3000-3500 is applicable to all cars or varies on following factors--

It would vary from car to car. Apart from the main factors you have listed above, it could also be influenced by other factors such as the torque curve, the load on the engine and so on.

To give you an example, I can cruise along in my Ikon 1.6 with the rpms hovering around 1800-2000 in fifth gear and speeds as low as 40kmph, but the moment I want some 'pull', I need to downshift to probably the third gear, with the rpms at around 2000 or so before getting the necessary acceleration. This is for a single occupant. With a full load I would have to use lower gears more often.

Originally Posted by Dieseldunk

Folks

How many of us do use clutch in reversing (riding the clutch/half clutch/slip the clutch) whatever . I feel in the Swift VDI the reverse gear is quicker than other cars. so I tend to ride the clutch (my reversing distance is hardly a few metres)

Cheers
Prasad

I think the reverse gear on most cars is faster than the first gear, so unless you are actually travelling in reverse (i.e. driving in the reverse direction for a good distance), you will need to ride the clutch. For e.g. when I am reversing into a parking slot, I would never release the clutch fully.

[Dieseldunk]

It would vary on size and weight of the vehicle. Also specs of the engine and other dynamics will matter. Generally the idling speed is 900-1100rpm and you can cruise at 40kmph in 5th gear which is in fact what all car manufacturers recommend to get optimal mileage.

Diesel engines tend to have a lower rpm compared to petrol variants.
Moreover drving style matters a lot how well you sync the clutch and gear shift.

Cheers
Prasad

[AvinashV]

On the first page of this thread it's advised to not press the clutch if one is going downhill. If the clutch is completely pressed, is it still bad for the clutch?

[IndigoXLGrandDi]

@AvinashV..
You should not use Clutch while going downhill neither should you shift to neutral.
You loose engine braking and also the car does not remain under control.
Always use clutch only while shifting gears (not even while braking).

[prateek_ch]

Just got the clutch changed on my Swift Vxi. 3rd in 40k Kms :( Now, here is the deal. I am still getting a faint burning smell whenever the RPM goes above 3k. Hence I have to resort to keep the RPM below 3k. Have noted this in shifts from 2nd to 3rd and 3rd to 4th. 4th and above does not have this issue. This does not seem normal. I don't want to fry the clutch again. Is there something wrong that I am doing? Gurus, please advise.

[honeybee]

Originally Posted by prateek_ch

Just got the clutch changed on my Swift Vxi. 3rd in 40k Kms :( Now, here is the deal. I am still getting a faint burning smell whenever the RPM goes above 3k. Hence I have to resort to keep the RPM below 3k.

It's either the clutch not fitted properly or you need some serious driving lessons on the use of clutch.

Originally Posted by AvinashV

On the first page of this thread it's advised to not press the clutch if one is going downhill. If the clutch is completely pressed, is it still bad for the clutch?

It's advised to use engine braking when going downhill so that the speeds can be controlled without excessive use of brakes. Use of engine braking prevents premature wear of the brakes. To use engine braking your clutch must be fully engaged and you should not be in neutral gear.

Engine braking aside, if your clutch is fully engaged (pedal completely released) or fully disengaged (pedal completely depressed) your clutch won't be damaged. It's the half-clutch (clutch riding) which can cause damage to the clutch.

[prateek_ch]

Originally Posted by honeybee

It's either the clutch not fitted properly or you need some serious driving lessons on the use of clutch.

This is the third car thats being driven by me. Had an Ambassador, a Maruti Omni and a Wagon R before moving to Swift. Never ever had to change the clutch on those vehicles. All ran for more than a lakh kms each.

So, i think it has to be something with the vehicle. The only plausible reason that I can think of is that in the previous 2 clutch changes, only the clutch plate was changed and not the entire assembly. This time I made sure that I get the entire set changed.

Still there is a faint clutch burn smell as mentioned earlier. Is this a new clutch behavior or something??

I am clueless! help!

[honeybee]

Nope, it's definitely not a new clutch behaviour. Please get the entire assembly checked by MASS and get the problem found out. Needless to say running through three clutches in a matter of a few thousand kms is extra-ordinary. You should probably have got the whole assembly changed in the first instance itself, but now that you have done it in the last attempt there should be no burning smell.

Maybe the clutch experts can throw some light on what else could cause a burning smell. Are you sure it comes from the clutch? Any other symptoms of clutch problem?

[prateek_ch]

Yes, most definitely it comes from the clutch. And yes, just before the smell here is what happens. The car seems to drag a little and seems to be putting more load on the engine and clutch and then the smell fills up the cabin.

Hope this helps!

[lamboguy]

Originally Posted by prateek_ch

This is the third car thats being driven by me. Had an Ambassador, a Maruti Omni and a Wagon R before moving to Swift. Never ever had to change the clutch on those vehicles. All ran for more than a lakh kms each.

So, i think it has to be something with the vehicle.

I own a Swift vxi too and had to replace the clutch once after 25k km. Though I didn't have complaints about any burning smell, the car used to pick up with huge jitters and jerks . We are not alone. Swifts are known for their inferior quality clutches, esp the petrol ones.

[ecenandu]

Originally Posted by prateek_ch

Still there is a faint clutch burn smell as mentioned earlier. Is this a new clutch behavior or something??

I am clueless! help!

Could you please tell us where exactly the clutch is biting with respect to the clutch travel. For example, Put in 1st gear slowly release the clutch and note when is the vehicle starting to move, If the vehicle starts to move near the top end of the clutch travel (almost released) then I think you need to get it checked. I always like the biting point to be in the middle. I think swift comes with a hydraulic clutch, so you cannot adjust the clutch biting point easily. In my car it is cable operated and one can easily adjust.

Did you try revving the engine past 3000 rpm. Did you find the speed increasing linearly with engine rpm (no clutch slippage) beyond 3000 rpm. I'm no expert in this, any ways please get your car checked if the problem persist. I'm sure its not a normal behavior.

[prateek_ch]

Yes, there is a whole thread on the 'Weak Swift clutch'. But a clutch thats a week old can't show such symptoms. I've tried to push the car beyond 3000 rpm. It does go beyond that however there is a little hesitation at 3000 rpm beyond which there is smooth acceleration without any slippage or hiccups. The bite point of the clutch seems proper. Really this clutch burn is a heart burn for me. :(

[rajeev k]

I remember in our Ambassador, the clutch overhaul was done only at 130K Kms and that too when the engine needed to be taken out for some welding work.
But I also have felt the clutch of my 1.3 petrol very weak, perhaps the feeling could be due to the engines very low low-end torque. The engine would be off even if there is a blocking of the wheel by a very small stone. This requires working on the clutch which can be dangerous over several times.