Re: Accelerator Pedal becoming stiff I would never just start replacing parts, unless replacing a part is substantial cheaper and quicker then a proper diagnosis. Even on relatively, seemly simple problems I have found it always pays to check things out in a systematic way and don't jump to conclussion. If you do, you might end up replacing parts without fixing the problem.
In this particular case, I'm not familiar with your car but here is how would go about it:
First start with looking in the footwell if there is anything obvious that can cause the accelerator pedal to become blocked or prevent it from moving freely. A floormat, a left shoe. Sometimes wires work themselve loose and start dangling down on to the pedals. The accelerator pedal itself will have some sort of pivot point around which it swings. Nothing wrapped around it? Say the wires or someting else?
Feel the pedal. Move it up and down. Most pedals can be moved upward a bit. If that feels very stiff, you might have found the culprit.
You might want to undo the cable from the accelerator pedal to double check. You need to do that for the next step anyway.
When checking cables, such as accelerator cables or clutch cables the best thing to do is to undo them on both ends and see if the inner cable slides smoothly in and out. If it doesn't, check for odd bends or something that might have damaged it. (I once had a case where the accelerator cable got caught in the locking mechanism of the hood.
Only once you have established that indeed the inner cable seems to to tight and there are no other external factors you should replace the cable. If the inner cable does move smoothly you move on to the next component, which is probably the throttlebody with maybe a few linkage. Again, you need to make sure the linkages and such work smooothly. So move them around and feel how smooth they move about, is there any stickyness to be felt?
You need to determine if there is gunk inside the TB preventing from working smoothly, or simple a case of some other mechanical problem o or near the TB.
On carburator engines there are usually more linkages involved, and again you need to check/verify they all move freely. Usually, you can disconnect these linkages easily and check if they move freely.
All the above checks can be completed on most cars/engines in well under 10minutes by a competent mechanic and some very basic tools.
You might also take a slightly different approach on either TB or carburators engine. If you believe (for whatever the reason) you can of course take whatever parts are in your way and peek inside. If it's very dirty you need to clean it, but it is no guarantee that was the problem. But if it is you might have saved yourself some time. On some cars/engine, say my Jaguar its quite a job to take everything off before I can actually peek inside the TB. Might be 30-45 minutes of spanner work.
All the other checks I mentioned are easily done without any major work
Just replacing parts is the so called trial and error method. Make sure you understand and diagnose the problem, and therefor fidn the correct solution, first.
I'm glad to hear the problem appears to be solved.
Jeroen |