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https://www.team-bhp.com/forum/)
Quote:
Originally Posted by PatienceWins
(Post 3299865)
@Pedalonthefloor - Awesome! what is IPA?
Is the clay bar - shown in picture above - Elastofoam from UD? |
IPA is a Isopropyl Alcohol. It is used after polishing to remove any oils and residue so that the sealant can be applied to bare paint and bond better. It is available in medical stores. Brands like Carpro offer their version of IPA called Eraser that is supposed to work better.
The clay bar is from a brand called Insta Finish and is avoidable as there are better options available.
Quote:
Originally Posted by hubolt
(Post 3299900)
1. What is a hard wax ? Is "clay" referred to frequently same as hard wax ? |
Hardwax usually are the ones which have higher concentration of Carnauba ( Natural Wax ). As a rule of thumb higher the concentration harder it is to apply/buff off with the benefit of durability.
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2.If I apply a hard wax and subsequently (on a bi-weekly/10day basis shampoo wash the car - I currently use Formula 1 Carnauba wash and wax shampoo ), how long do these hard wax effects last ?
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Durability depends on a lot of factors. For eg:- How well the prep was done, environmental conditions , how is it being maintained.. etc. So it is a bit tricky to comment, but any good quality carnauba wax which was forumulated with durability in mind ( For eg.. Collinite 476 ) should last at least 2 to 4 months.
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3. What is the ideal cycle of hard wax, shampoo , wash , plain water wash recommended ? Is daily water wash OK ? In which case how long will the most durable hard wax last and which wax brand is recommended and how long will it's effect last? Are there any good local brands which are easily available ?
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You can use some good shampoos that do not strip the wax off ( PH Neutral), few good ones I have seen in India are Megs NXT, Sonax .. etc. In my opinion if you have a good Quality Carnauba you can skip something which is Wash&Wax, as the Wash and wax products I have tried earlier are just a placebo.
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4. Is the hard wax for alloys same as the hard wax for car body paint ?
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Though I have not tried, Finish Care FK1000P high temp wax is claimed to do wonders on alloys.
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5. Do hard wax and soft wax give the same effective protection life under above - wax- wash-shampoo cycle mentioned in point 2/3 ?
thanks.
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Please refer to the answer of point 2.
Introduction:
After trying few sealants, whenever someone asks me for a good durable sealant or a wax first thing that comes to my mind is Collinite 476s.
Back in days when I did not have a closed parking, I was worried about my Colorado red Ford Figo. I started searching across few forums to find out the best sealant or a wax which can give my beloved car a protection under these extreme conditions. After reading few reviews based on the recommendations of detailing enthusiasts as well as Pros, I shortlisted on C476s.
Started searching and found out that BBImpex India sells this, without further delay, I ordered.
Quick product facts from Collinite website:-
Quoting from “
http://www.collinite.com/automotive-...at-paste-wax/” Quote:
Signature carnauba shine, heavy-duty protection and*ultimate durability
Collinite’s longest-lasting automotive formulation
Award-winner in independent tests for endurance
Produces lustrous finish while*shielding against outdoor elements
A Mr. Collins original, this classic carnauba/polymer*blend is also Collinite’s most durable.*Holds up month after month against harmful outdoor corrosives; UV,*rain, snow,*salt, dust, dirt, grime, bugs, staining and more.*Ideal as a winter wax when both lasting shine and all-season/all-conditions protection are equally crucial. Handcrafted and hand poured in the USA.
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Details:-
1) Packaging:- Aluminium tub
2) Directions:- WOWO
3) Viscosity :- Paste
4) Scent:- Mild Chemical
5) Price:- Rs 1359 ( As on 2012 )
Preparation:-
Regular wash followed by a clay ( Mothers ).
Application:-
This is a wax which you do not want to be casual about. This once set, is hard to remove. So start with one panel, do the second one, come back to the first panel buff it off then follow with a slow final wipe with a folded MF to give it that shine. Follow the same procedure for the second panel. If you leave it for long, it's a sure shot recipe to develop some serious biceps, and it goes without saying, you should apply this wax as thin as possible.
As with most nuba waxes allow 24 hours and do the second coat.
Though I have used many waxes and sealants, I have never tested them in terms of durability. However this is the wax which I applied on my Dad's Wagon R just before a rainy season and it was satisfying to watch the car still beading after 3 months of heavy rain that too in Malnad region.
Verdict:-
Durability 5/5
Looks 4/5
Ease of application 3/5
Protection 4.5/5 ( Product Claimed )
Overall 4/5
This is my earlier Figo, with two coats of C476s. Both photos taken from a Mobile camera.
My current drive Punto after two coats.
![All about Car Waxes & Sealants-punto1.jpg](https://www.team-bhp.com/forum/attachments/technical-stuff/1169755d1691670532t-all-about-car-waxes-sealants-punto1.jpg)
Shortlisted some products for my next upgrade. Help appreciated.
- DG105 is a called a polish. Is it really a sealant or does it do the function of polish too?
- How about topping it with FinishKare Hi Temp Paste Wax? After going through some sites and this thread, I feel both these products exhibit good durability. And I can get a small FinishKare for 400/-
- Will DG105 clear out light swirls on my 8 month old white Vento? Or do you recommend SwirlX before DG105? Or anything else?
- Or Autoglym Super Resin Polish instead of DG105 / SwirlX?
P.S:- I don't have a polisher.
- Have Megs 26 at present. Wanted to go for a more durable one.
- Intend to skip claying.
![All about Car Waxes & Sealants-img_6312.jpg](https://www.team-bhp.com/forum/attachments/technical-stuff/1169841d1691670621t-all-about-car-waxes-sealants-img_6312.jpg)
Quote:
Originally Posted by Pedaltothefloor
(Post 3299988)
IPA is a Isopropyl Alcohol. It is used after polishing to remove any oils and residue so that the sealant can be applied to bare paint and bond better. It is available in medical stores. Brands like Carpro offer their version of IPA called Eraser that is supposed to work better. The clay bar is from a brand called Insta Finish and is avoidable as there are better options available. |
I had been using 3M show car wax paste till now. Unfortunately , my wax paste kit disappeared mysteriously ;) during a recent 3 M HSR Layout , Bangalore visit.
I am now planning to go for a sealant + wax combo as part of my DIY kit. I have zeroed in on Collinite 915 + Meguair NXT 2.0 sealant. What are your thoughts on this ? You can suggest something better as well.
Quote:
Originally Posted by thoma
(Post 3300879)
Shortlisted some products for my next upgrade. Help appreciated.
[*]DG105 is a called a polish. Is it really a sealant or does it do the function of polish too? |
Its a sealant and a good one at that. Just ignore what label says, the word Polish is being used because mass market associates gloss with polish.
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[*]How about topping it with FinishKare Hi Temp Paste Wax? After going through some sites and this thread, I feel both these products exhibit good durability. And I can get a small FinishKare for 400/-
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FK1000p is undoubtedly a very good product, and as you rightly said very durable. But topping it over something only makes it as durable as the underlaying layer ( which in your case would be DG ). Personally I would try DG first and then take a call.
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[*]Will DG105 clear out light swirls on my 8 month old white Vento? Or do you recommend SwirlX before DG105? Or anything else?
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DG 105 on its own does not clear out anything , at the worst case it might mask them temporarily ( @pedaltothefloor please clarify ?).
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[*]Or Autoglym Super Resin Polish instead of DG105 / SwirlX?
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Both should do the job. Personally I would try SRP if by hand and on a Vento, which is known to have a hard paint. It would be a challenge to correct by hand. Filler heavy SRP should help a lot here by masking them.
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[*]Intend to skip claying.
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Please clay the car if possible. Bonded contaminants not only mask the shine but impact sealant's durability as well.
Quote:
Originally Posted by speedsatya
(Post 3300888)
I had been using 3M show car wax paste till now. Unfortunately , my wax paste kit disappeared mysteriously ;) during a recent 3 M HSR Layout , Bangalore visit.
I am now planning to go for a sealant + wax combo as part of my DIY kit. I have zeroed in on Collinite 915 + Meguair NXT 2.0 sealant. What are your thoughts on this ? You can suggest something better as well. |
915 is a wax and Tech 2.0 is a sealant. Both have very different looks. What is the color of your car and what brand is it? How old is it and what is the condition of the paint?
Quote:
Originally Posted by Pedaltothefloor
(Post 3300972)
915 is a wax and Tech 2.0 is a sealant. Both have very different looks. What is the color of your car and what brand is it? How old is it and what is the condition of the paint? |
I was looking at a wax + sealant exercise. I have two 10 year + cars and one 6 month old car. All silver colors.
About condition , all 3 cars are in fairly good condition.
Quote:
Originally Posted by speedsatya
(Post 3300986)
I was looking at a wax + sealant exercise. I have two 10 year + cars and one 6 month old car. All silver colors.
About condition , all 3 cars are in fairly good condition. |
You can go with sealant plus wax but I personally almost never recommend that. A good sealant or wax is always enough to provide the required looks and durability. However, it is a matter of personal choice.
Tech 2.0 costs as much as Collinite 845 but 845 is more durable and will last longer. Also, 845 being a hybrid will give better reflections than 915 on silver paint. However, if your choices are limited between Tech 2.0 and C915, I would suggest Tech 2.0, otherwise my choice would be C845 or Duragloss 111.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Pedaltothefloor
(Post 3300993)
You can go with sealant plus wax but I personally almost never recommend that. A good sealant or wax is always enough to provide the required looks and durability. However, it is a matter of personal choice. Tech 2.0 costs as much as Collinite 845 but 845 is more durable and will last longer. Also, 845 being a hybrid will give better reflections than 915 on silver paint. However, if your choices are limited between Tech 2.0 and C915, I would suggest Tech 2.0, otherwise my choice would be C845 or Duragloss 111. |
All these days , I was using only wax ( started with formula 1 and then Turtle Wax Platinum wax , Ice. Have been using 3M Show Car Wax Paste since the last 4 years )
So , if I have to go for just a sealant or a wax , which one would you recommend.
Quote:
Originally Posted by speedsatya
(Post 3301002)
So , if I have to go for just a sealant or a wax , which one would you recommend. |
This would be my first recommendation based on your car color and your exposure to waxes and sealants. It will add a lot of gloss and considering you have only used waxes so far, it would be a welcome change to experience a sealant. You will need to apply this with a pad to the entire car and then come back to the first panel and start removing it. DG 111 is a pure sealant and will add massive gloss to your silver cars, very easy to apply and remove and the price is good.
This would be my next choice based on the ease of use as all you need to do is spray on the pad and walk around the car dragging the applicator. No need to wait or even wipe off. You can do 1 coat each on all three cars, come back and do the 2nd coat on all three cars and come back and do the 3rd coat on all three cars. After 3 coats of UPGP on all the cars, you will have killer looks and good durability for up to 3 months. Plus, you will still be able to feel your arms as this involves almost no effort and you can reapply it every few months in a few minutes. UPGP is also available through
Ultimate Detailerz so check the price with both BB Impex and UD before buying it.
For my Pearl white Duster I have sort of settled down to this routine:
1. daily - dusting with California duster,
2. weekly - windscreen, windows and body (where it has picked up some dirt) cleaning with ONR diluted solution - spray and wipe with MF cloth
3. Fortnightly: Vacuum interiors, foot mats
4. Monthly: Engine bay cleaning with just waste cotton and brush and
4. quarterly - Sonax shampoo wash, when not fully dry clay with ONR dilution, dry and finish off with Collinite 845
After long road trips (usually every alternate month), depending how much the car has picked up dirt, take it to HSR 3M for foam wash to take care of under carriage.
As the 3M sealant treatment with PPF was done right after I bought Duster in Jan 13, my plan is to take it to 3M to see if Sealant treatment is to be repeated after I complete the 2nd service 10K one in Decmeber.
Any suggestions to improve the process, different product/routine? Any ideas for 1 year completion plan? As usual I much appreciate and value the comments in this forum :) Cheers
Quote:
Originally Posted by Waxeloquent
(Post 3301144)
For my Pearl white Duster I have sort of settled down to this routine:
1. daily - dusting with California duster,
2. weekly - windscreen, windows and body (where it has picked up some dirt) cleaning with ONR diluted solution - spray and wipe with MF cloth
3. Fortnightly: Vacuum interiors, foot mats
4. Monthly: Engine bay cleaning with just waste cotton and brush and
4. quarterly - Sonax shampoo wash, when not fully dry clay with ONR dilution, dry and finish off with Collinite 845
After long road trips (usually every alternate month), depending how much the car has picked up dirt, take it to HSR 3M for foam wash to take care of under carriage.
As the 3M sealant treatment with PPF was done right after I bought Duster in Jan 13, my plan is to take it to 3M to see if Sealant treatment is to be repeated after I complete the 2nd service 10K one in Decmeber.
Any suggestions to improve the process, different product/routine? Any ideas for 1 year completion plan? As usual I much appreciate and value the comments in this forum :) Cheers |
waxeloauent, that's an excellent routine you are following and good to know you are taking care of the car so well.
All I can add is, yearly once please get it polished or treated by 3M or any professional detailer, if you don't want to go through the masochism of polishing by hand yourself.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Waxeloquent
(Post 3301144)
Any suggestions to improve the process, different product/routine? |
Since you are in a Bangalore, my humble suggestion would be to visit a better detailer than 3M. You have Keystone Enterprises and Ultimate Detailerz in Bangalore who will do a far better job than 3M. 3M products are under average and they follow an aggressive approach of using the most aggressive compound on all cars even though the paint defects may be mild to moderate. Consequently, it will thin your clear coat faster if you go there often. And the sealant they use neither looks good nor is durable.
Both UD and Keystone use far better brands and will use the least aggressive approach to get your paint in top notch condition. Post that, you can wax or seal and even hand polish for the next year or two to maintain the finish.
Few days back I applied Turtle wax on my newly painted (fully cured paint and 3M rubbing compound was applied by painter) esteem. Polish gave a deep gloss to the paint but second day I noticed that dust is very hard to remove from the car now. Static charge is there which attracts the dust and does not leave the car body when wiped using dry cloth. What to do to make this static charge go away?
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