Team-BHP
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https://www.team-bhp.com/forum/)
Quote:
Originally Posted by thoma
(Post 3333162)
do not skip claying |
Do polishes like Sonax Polish or Autoglym Super Resin Polish clean the surface and prepare it for the wax/sealant? Can these be used instead of the clay?
A little apprehensive about claying as I am not sure how it works and what is to be done :D
Ideal procedure would be clay, polish and wax. But getting good clay is difficult. Bringing best have run out of it. And clay is expensive. Good polishing can be achieved with a machine and should use some kind of cutting or polishing pads. Getting all of this is a challenge
Quote:
Originally Posted by procrj
(Post 3333208)
A little apprehensive about claying as I am not sure how it works and what is to be done |
Don't be. Just watch
this 5 min video on the foam clay, which is superior to the ordinary clay bar that need to be kneaded and be careful with not to drop on the floor. The very first post of
this informative thread could clear much of your doubts. Polishing does not necessarily lift bonded contaminants. And if at all lifted, these contaminants tend to further mar the paintwork being trapped in the applicator pad.
IMO, Sonax polish is pretty average. For the good effects of polishing, you will need a polishing machine. Else, you will soon tire out using elbow grease.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Pedaltothefloor
(Post 3295979)
Thanks. I currently use Ultima Elastrofoam Clay Block sourced from Ultimate Detailerz in Bangalore. |
Quote:
Plus, unlike clay; if you drop it by mistake you can simply rinse and reuse...Eco Car Care also sells their version of the Elastrofoam called Optimum Eraser Clay block. Both Elastrofoam and Eraser cost around Rs. 1,500.
|
Thanks Pedal for this piece of info. I do tend to drop things and hence this might come in handy
Quote:
Originally Posted by thoma
(Post 3333337)
IMO, Sonax polish is pretty average. For the good effects of polishing, you will need a polishing machine. Else, you will soon tire out using elbow grease. |
Thanks Thoma! Planing to talk to Eco Car Care and check if they have Eraser.
Plan is to clay and then use FK1000P or Col 915. One other point - my car does have a deep scratch on the drive side door (paint layer has been gouged). Do you think I should get a touch up first before I clay & wax??
Quote:
Originally Posted by procrj
(Post 3333396)
Thanks Pedal for this piece of info. I do tend to drop things and hence this might come in handy
Thanks Thoma! Planing to talk to Eco Car Care and check if they have Eraser.
Plan is to clay and then use FK1000P or Col 915. One other point - my car does have a deep scratch on the drive side door (paint layer has been gouged). Do you think I should get a touch up first before I clay & wax?? |
Yes a touch up should help but the problem is who and where! Most places they will end up causing more damage to surrounding areas like over spray etc. Technically, once touch up is done- you need to wait a few days before putting any wax.
Quote:
Originally Posted by mkh
(Post 3333653)
Yes a touch up should help but the problem is who and where! Most places they will end up causing more damage to surrounding areas like over spray etc. Technically, once touch up is done- you need to wait a few days before putting any wax. |
What happens if I do not get the touch up but go ahead and clay & apply FK1000P?
Quote:
Originally Posted by procrj
(Post 3333688)
What happens if I do not get the touch up but go ahead and clay & apply FK1000P? |
Later, if you do decide to touch up, you'll have to laboriously and thoroughly remove all traces of wax from that area else the paint wont adhere!
Quote:
Originally Posted by sohail99
(Post 3333693)
you'll have to laboriously and thoroughly remove all traces of wax from that area else the paint wont adhere! |
I would love to know about such a durable wax! Even the test coat of FK1000P was all gone after I used diesel for removing tar instead of clay or TarX.
Spoke to Eco car care and they have the Eraser in stock. Planning to pick this up tomorrow along with Optimum Car Wax (4 oz) as Bringing Best does not have stock of FK1000P small sample. Sunday is the "D" day :D
I am assuming that OCW can be used on alloys as well. please correct me if I am wrong. Will be great if someone can put together a list of do's and dont's for newbies like me.
Quote:
Originally Posted by procrj
(Post 3334507)
Will be great if someone can put together a list of do's and dont's for newbies like me. |
List down the step you intend to perform and then the point by point help will follow.
Step by step detailing:
1. Dust with Jopasu duster
2. Wash car + shampoo using the two bucket method
3. Use Eraser + Lube to clay and prep the surface
3q1. Do I need to mask chrome & plastic parts like door handles, logos
3q2. Wait time before applying OCW
4. OCW spray and spread using the LC applicator pad. Wait for 30 min and apply a second coat (car panels + alloys)
5. Buff using Sonax MF cloth
Future: Planning to pick up the FK1000P sometime next month and apply the same after OCW
Quote:
Originally Posted by procrj
(Post 3334618)
Step by step detailing:
1. Dust with Jopasu duster |
My two cents: Jopasu duster needs to be used very carefully or not at all. I've seen new swirl marks every time I used it and hence stopped it within a few days of usage. Better to use ONR or similar stuff.
PS: no way associated with any detailing brand.
Quote:
Originally Posted by procrj
(Post 3334618)
Step by step detailing:
1. Dust with Jopasu duster
2. Wash car + shampoo using the two bucket method
3. Use Eraser + Lube to clay and prep the surface
3q1. Do I need to mask chrome & plastic parts like door handles, logos
3q2. Wait time before applying OCW
4. OCW spray and spread using the LC applicator pad. Wait for 30 min and apply a second coat (car panels + alloys)
5. Buff using Sonax MF cloth
Future: Planning to pick up the FK1000P sometime next month and apply the same after OCW |
IMO you do not need to dust if you are gonna wash it. A pre wash foam soak should be most helpful. If not, just a rinsing with plain water should be good. The aim is to dislodge the loose dust and grime with minimal paint contact.
Also - Eraser is not required for claying.
Quote:
Originally Posted by MNITDEVIL
(Post 3334635)
I've seen new swirl marks every time I used it and hence stopped it within a few days of usage |
Have been using this for the last 3 weeks and have not seen any new swirls. There is a way to use this and would suggest that you go through this thread as there are many many people who swear by Jopasu
http://www.team-bhp.com/forum/modifi...review-58.html Quote:
Originally Posted by blackasta
(Post 3334664)
Also - Eraser is not required for claying. |
I thought the Eraser was an easier way to clean & prep the surface and is considered as a replacement to clay
Quote:
Originally Posted by procrj
(Post 3334678)
Have been using this for the last 3 weeks and have not seen any new swirls. There is a way to use this and would suggest that you go through this thread as there are many many people who swear by Jopasu http://www.team-bhp.com/forum/modifi...review-58.html
I thought the Eraser was an easier way to clean & prep the surface and is considered as a replacement to clay |
Err, no intention to pick on your words but the last page (currently 58) does quote about formation of swirls on using Jopasu. But that's true for every other type of cleaning aid as well. Scrub too hard on a soiled surface and voila! Since the duster is primarily used on dry surface hence increased chances of swirl formation.
And at the end of the day, "to each, his own" :)
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