[burnout_boy]

My Ford Ikon 2005 Flair (65K odo) now has a new problem from today. On the way to work, there was a lot of stop and go traffic due to potholes, and I was on 1st/2nd gear for about 15 minutes. In the evening when I started the car at the office parking, it began to idle at 2000 RPM. I waited for 2-3 minutes, and when I engaged it in gear, the RPM dropped. Each time I pressed the clutch to engage the gear, the RPM would increase and then once in the gear, the RPM would drop. When I bring the car to a stop and put it in neutral, the RPM would again rise to 2000. Brought the car home, and went down to start it after 4 hours. This time the RPM was at 1500 and then after 5 minutes, it dropped to its usual value of 900-1000. And then suddenly it increased back to 2000 (I was turning on and off the headlights, but it seems too coincidental). I turned off the engine and came back home.

The clutch plate got replaced last year. Is it the idle air valve? Any other ideas?

[wantarangerover]

This might be due to leakage in the inlet manifod system. Get this checked. Otherwise, it maybe the IAC valve.

[burnout_boy]

Originally Posted by wantarangerover

This might be due to leakage in the inlet manifod system. Get this checked. Otherwise, it maybe the IAC valve.

Took it to the Bosch Car Care in Kharadi, Pune. The guy opened up pipes/tubes of the inlet manifold and gave them a nice vacuum. According to him, after the vehicle hits 4000 RPM, it takes longer time to come down to 1000 (all at standstill). The car is ok now. The mechanics recommendation - if it happens up, he will need to open up the manifold and check the various sensors. Charged me a 100 bucks for his time. Drove back home 12 km in moderate traffic and it is behaving fine.

[Catalyst_delhi]

Originally Posted by burnout_boy

Took it to the Bosch Car Care in Kharadi, Pune. The guy opened up pipes/tubes of the inlet manifold and gave them a nice vacuum. According to him, after the vehicle hits 4000 RPM, it takes longer time to come down to 1000 (all at standstill). The car is ok now. The mechanics recommendation - if it happens up, he will need to open up the manifold and check the various sensors. Charged me a 100 bucks for his time. Drove back home 12 km in moderate traffic and it is behaving fine.

I had this problem - They have a term for this " Rev Hanging". Ikon's do not rev hang that bad. Few things I did to fix this - Clean the power steering switch , Cleaned the Temp sensor , Replace all vacuume lines , Clean the PCV valve, also changed the TPS. I am super sure that the TPS was the faulty one as I use to have High idle and also a almost stall situation when i was downshifting.

[Catalyst_delhi]

http://www.fordstownerssa.co.za/foru...63921&start=30

I could not edit the post in time hence posting again. Read this through , expecially the last post on page 3.

[T1000]

Originally Posted by burnout_boy

My Ford Ikon 2005 Flair (65K odo) now has a new problem from today. On the way to work, there was a lot of stop and go traffic due to potholes, and I was on 1st/2nd gear for about 15 minutes. In the evening when I started the car at the office parking, it began to idle at 2000 RPM. I waited for 2-3 minutes, and when I engaged it in gear, the RPM dropped. Each time I pressed the clutch to engage the gear, the RPM would increase and then once in the gear, the RPM would drop. When I bring the car to a stop and put it in neutral, the RPM would again rise to 2000.

This means, there is a vaccum leak in the throttle body or inlet manifold.

Originally Posted by burnout_boy

Brought the car home, and went down to start it after 4 hours. This time the RPM was at 1500 and then after 5 minutes, it dropped to its usual value of 900-1000.

This can also happen if O2 sensor's response is slow.(its a guess, someone may want to correct me )


Possible other reasons;
1. Check if throttle cable is moving freely
2. a stuck TP sensor, you can use a multimeter to check

A simple clean and a new throttle body seal may correct the problem.

[ashis89]

Is there any upper limit for the idle RPM in a car after it has run around a few kms (engine is no more cold)? I find the idle RPM of my WagonR to be +/- 1k. I know -1k is okay and use of AC also increases the RPM. But I have observed that it settles down at 1k+ (1100-1200) even with the AC off, in heavy traffic. Is it abnormal?

[CGB]

Originally Posted by ashis89

Is there any upper limit for the idle RPM in a car after it has run around a few kms (engine is no more cold)? I find the idle RPM of my WagonR to be +/- 1k. I know -1k is okay and use of AC also increases the RPM. But I have observed that it settles down at 1k+ (1100-1200) even with the AC off, in heavy traffic. Is it abnormal?

Mentioned idling RPM is absolutely normal. Use of AC will increase by 200-300RPM. If you still have any doubts, you can get the car to service centre and get the MAF (Mass Air Flow) sensor cleaned.

[saket77]

Originally Posted by ashis89

But I have observed that it settles down at 1k+ (1100-1200) even with the AC off, in heavy traffic. Is it abnormal?

I think the idle RPM without the load of AC and other electricals should around 800 RPM (+/- 50 rpm). If more, probably the throttle body and the air filter may need cleaning.

[supremeBaleno]

Not sure if there are other more relevant & recent threads on this topic, but this is one I found.

When I took out my Baleno1.6 today, noticed that the idling is kind of rough / shaky.
Normally the car idles at ~750rpm (without a/c) and at ~1000rpm (with a/c).

But when this issue is seen, it is the reverse - it idles at ~1100rpm (without a/c) and comes down to ~800rpm (with a/c).

Any idea as to what the possible cause could be ?

[scorpian]

Originally Posted by supremeBaleno

Not sure if there are other more relevant & recent threads on this topic, but this is one I found.

When I took out my Baleno1.6 today, noticed that the idling is kind of rough / shaky.
Normally the car idles at ~750rpm (without a/c) and at ~1000rpm (with a/c).

But when this issue is seen, it is the reverse - it idles at ~1100rpm (without a/c) and comes down to ~800rpm (with a/c).

Any idea as to what the possible cause could be ?

IAC Valve is stuck! Clean the throttle body. Disconnect the IAT Sensor and see if it makes any difference prior to opening the throttle body just to rule it out.

You will need to dismantle and clean the throttle body, just spraying the throttle plate may not help in your case.

[supremeBaleno]

Originally Posted by scorpian

IAC Valve is stuck! Clean the throttle body. Disconnect the IAT Sensor and see if it makes any difference prior to opening the throttle body just to rule it out. You will need to dismantle and clean the throttle body, just spraying the throttle plate may not help in your case.

Thanks, scorpian

Update in brief :
As I understood after talking with my FNG mechanic, a stuck IAC valve, throttle body etc are possible reasons for this issue, as you rightly pointed out.

Other causes could be :
1) Faulty or old spark plugs
2) Any of the ignitors gone bad.

For now, my issue was 99% solved by replacing the spark plugs (they had done 45K kms) and one of the ignitors that had gone bad.
But there is still a very rare 1% occurence, that would need to have the throttle body cleaned and/or IAC valve checked later.

Detailed update : Posted on my Baleno LTR thread here (My Maruti Baleno LXi. So what's new, right? EDIT: 1,00,000km milestone).

[Leoshashi]

In addition to what BHPian Scorpian has perfectly explained, remove throttle body from intake manifold, remove IAC also from Throttle body and clean inside out. But make sure you don't dismantle the IAC also, which many mechanics do as a standard practice. Your operating procedure should be:

1. Remove throttle body from Intake manifold and IAC valve and clean it inside out, both from front and back. Soak if need arises. The throttle plate should be absolutely free. While we are at it, don't let the mechanic fiddle with the original resting place of the throttle plate.

2. IAC valve: Spray cleaner and that should take care of normal cases. I'd recommend using a lubricant cum cleaner like WD40 rather than simple throttle body cleaners which are solvent based. The lube helps in smooth operation of the rotor inside IAC. Also, don't let the mechanic dismantle the IAC itself. That is actually easy to clean but also remember that it throws it out of calibration and it will be impossible for anyone to tune it back(might cause erratic idling after that). Hence dismantle it only if its the last resort before you change the assembly itself. This is coming from my own experience and also Suzuki manuals prohibits doing such things. Infact the modern valves come with rivets instead of screws so that mechanic cannot dismantle it.



Regards,
Shashi