[archat68]

Originally Posted by Champion

shows erratic temperature and fuel levels.

Get your instrument cluster checked. There may be some loose connection or the cluster may itself be faulty.

[giri1.8]

Over heating has happened once on my uncle's indica, engine was over heating even while driving on a empty stretch of road, so had to stop and ideal for few mins to cool it off, issue was found to be some faulty wiring due to which radiator stops working randomly. Overheating warning popped up while riding my friend's Yamaha R15 in heavy traffic, friend told me that coolant was not working effectively for few days and was to be changed in few days, so took a detour and rode on a empty stretch of road and warning went off immediately.

[Aroy]

Originally Posted by Champion

Hello People, I have a rather odd predicament. My 2009 Swift VDi which has run about 36k, shows erratic temperature and fuel levels. I have been alarmed a few times and have followed the many steps that had been advised in our forum. But the problem does not arise out of genuine heating issue. Unfortunately for me, when I had given the car for service, this error did not happen and the workshop people said they have looked into it. But nope, the problem persists. Should I just change the gauges or is there a simpler job to correct this error? God forbid, I might just end up in the soup if in case my engine does really heat up. Kindly advise.

Regards
Champion

Check the wires for proper connection. They may be loose, or frayed, in which case momentary touch with body will duplicate the symptoms.

If the wires are fine and connectors tight, then it may be a power problem
. Check the battery. If it is more than 4 years old change it.
. Check the connectors at the battery. If they are slightly loose, tighten them.

[Niel@Figo]

Two weeks ago had an experience on my Figo Zxi 2010 model. The second problem faced till date on the car since it went on road in Sep 2010 and almost completed 49k km.

I started from office around 8pm in the evening and after about 2 km, the overheating dashboard indicator started blinking. Tried switching the engine off for sometime before switching on and reached an area where I could park the car.

Checked the coolant level and it was almost nil and there was no overflow signs from the near the gasket. Fans also seemed to be running fine.

Even though, I bought a coolant from nearby pump I didn't fill the coolant tank coz
1) could not get recommended coolant of FORD,
2) total empty tank indicated leakage hence new coolant may also drain out in sometime.

So, called roadside assistance and the technician could reach after almost 2 hours. While checking the engine with coolant refilled by them, we found out leaking coolant from a ruptured hose. It was substantial rupture and coolant was almost pouring out.

Hence, had the vehicle towed on there suggestion and got the repair done the next day along with the regular service which was getting due for 50k km.

Though they replaced the hose, question remained unanswered was how the hose ruptured.

It is also pertinent to note that since last 3-4 weeks before this incident, engine warning was blinking on and off whenever I was starting the engine in morning or evening hours. The SA informed that they checked for the same and since lot of dirt had accumulated over the some parts of the engine, the warning indicator was blinking.

Though, the indicator has stopped blinking after the service, I am not sure if the explanation of dirt is actually true.

SA also suggested tyre and battery change for the vehicle.

So, few queries on this forum for some guidance from the gurus:

a. Can there be a explanation of hose rupturing?
b. Can the dirt explanation given for blinking engine warning indicator be true?
c. What is the usual tyre and battery change frequency for Ford Figo Zxi?
d. What happens if in some case, we actual need to fill coolant which is not the recommended coolant?

[Aroy]

Originally Posted by Niel@Figo

Two weeks ago had an experience on my Figo Zxi 2010 model. The second problem faced till date on the car since it went on road in Sep 2010 and almost completed 49k km.

I started from office around 8pm in the evening and after about 2 km, the overheating dashboard indicator started blinking. Tried switching the engine off for sometime before switching on and reached an area where I could park the car.

Checked the coolant level and it was almost nil and there was no overflow signs from the near the gasket. Fans also seemed to be running fine.

Even though, I bought a coolant from nearby pump I didn't fill the coolant tank coz
1) could not get recommended coolant of FORD,
2) total empty tank indicated leakage hence new coolant may also drain out in sometime.

So, called roadside assistance and the technician could reach after almost 2 hours. While checking the engine with coolant refilled by them, we found out leaking coolant from a ruptured hose. It was substantial rupture and coolant was almost pouring out.

Hence, had the vehicle towed on there suggestion and got the repair done the next day along with the regular service which was getting due for 50k km.

Though they replaced the hose, question remained unanswered was how the hose ruptured.

It is also pertinent to note that since last 3-4 weeks before this incident, engine warning was blinking on and off whenever I was starting the engine in morning or evening hours. The SA informed that they checked for the same and since lot of dirt had accumulated over the some parts of the engine, the warning indicator was blinking.

Though, the indicator has stopped blinking after the service, I am not sure if the explanation of dirt is actually true.

SA also suggested tyre and battery change for the vehicle.

So, few queries on this forum for some guidance from the gurus:

a. Can there be a explanation of hose rupturing?
b. Can the dirt explanation given for blinking engine warning indicator be true?
c. What is the usual tyre and battery change frequency for Ford Figo Zxi?
d. What happens if in some case, we actual need to fill coolant which is not the recommended coolant?

a) All rubber parts deteriorate with time. It is only a question of how soon. That is why it is wise to check all rubber parts, especially hoses after three years, and change them at the four year mark.
b) Engine blinking can either be due to low engine oil level or battery voltage. As engine gets old, especially if the car runs mainly short distances, sludge and carbon accumulates (as it is not burnt by a hot engine). This sludge may clog narrow oil passages, with the result that lubrication is affected, and engine oil thins out. One symptom is reduced FE and a relatively sluggish engine. If that is so, just take the car out for a long (100km+) drive on a highway, where you can maintain at least 90km/h. That run will clean up your engine. You will notice the difference immediately in improved FE and a more responsive engine.
c) Tyres last any where between three and five years, whether used or not, especially if the car is not parked in a closed garage. With time the rubber will harden and you may find that braking is affected, or cracks may develop leading to frequent punctures. Similarly batteries last three years on an average, but some have changed in two years and some after six years. So in your case a four year 50K km is about the time you changed both.
d) Coolant comes with an additive that raises the boiling point of the liquid, so that the coolant can run at higher temperature than water. It may also contain rust inhibitors. Other wise coolant is water. So in emergencies you can always fill water and then when you fill the recommended coolant, flush all the water out.

[Gannu_1]

Originally Posted by Aroy

d) Coolant comes with an additive that raises the boiling point of the liquid, so that the coolant can run at higher temperature than water.

And lowers the freezing point of water so it doesn't freeze to ice especially in locations where sub-zero ambient temperatures are common.

[Niel@Figo]

Originally Posted by Aroy

b) Engine blinking can either be due to low engine oil level or battery voltage. As engine gets old, especially if the car runs mainly short distances, sludge and carbon accumulates (as it is not burnt by a hot engine). This sludge may clog narrow oil passages, with the result that lubrication is affected, and engine oil thins out. One symptom is reduced FE and a relatively sluggish engine. If that is so, just take the car out for a long (100km+) drive on a highway, where you can maintain at least 90km/h. That run will clean up your engine. You will notice the difference immediately in improved FE and a more responsive engine.

Battery replacement has been suggested by SA this time but since I am yet to have any starting problems, I decided to postpone it for now. FE has in fact got better since last few months and I do get to run some 50-70 km runs say once in a month. So, battery may be the real source of the problem. As I am planning for a long drive next week, would it be better to get a battery replacement done immediately?

Originally Posted by Aroy

c) Tyres last any where between three and five years, whether used or not, especially if the car is not parked in a closed garage. With time the rubber will harden and you may find that braking is affected, or cracks may develop leading to frequent punctures. Similarly batteries last three years on an average, but some have changed in two years and some after six years. So in your case a four year 50K km is about the time you changed both.

My car is usually parked in basement and not subject to Sun and I dont see any cracks as of now or any punctures. So, I have currently yet to decide on tyre change. Got the following details from the SC on the tyres:

LF - Tread depth - 1.5 mm, brake pad thickness - 7.5mm
RF - Tread depth - 1.8 mm, brake pad thickness - 7.5mm
LR - Tread depth - 2.5 mm, brake pad thickness - 3.5mm
RR - Tread depth - 3.0 mm, brake pad thickness - 3.5mm

considering the above, is it recommended to go for a overhaul of tyres right now again considering I m planning a 1500 - 2000 km long drive over one weeks time from 24th to 30th Jan 2015.

Looking for some suggestions asap!!

Mods, if you feel the above not appropriate for this thread, kindly move to appropriate thread.

[Aroy]

Originally Posted by Niel@Figo

Battery replacement has been suggested by SA this time but since I am yet to have any starting problems, I decided to postpone it for now. FE has in fact got better since last few months and I do get to run some 50-70 km runs say once in a month. So, battery may be the real source of the problem. As I am planning for a long drive next week, would it be better to get a battery replacement done immediately?



My car is usually parked in basement and not subject to Sun and I dont see any cracks as of now or any punctures. So, I have currently yet to decide on tyre change. Got the following details from the SC on the tyres:

LF - Tread depth - 1.5 mm, brake pad thickness - 7.5mm
RF - Tread depth - 1.8 mm, brake pad thickness - 7.5mm
LR - Tread depth - 2.5 mm, brake pad thickness - 3.5mm
RR - Tread depth - 3.0 mm, brake pad thickness - 3.5mm

considering the above, is it recommended to go for a overhaul of tyres right now again considering I m planning a 1500 - 2000 km long drive over one weeks time from 24th to 30th Jan 2015.

Looking for some suggestions asap!!

Mods, if you feel the above not appropriate for this thread, kindly move to appropriate thread.

1. Though the battery has juice enough to start the engine, it may not be producing enough voltage intermittently. This happens when the material from the plates have come off and short the cell momentarily. It will show, when the vehicle is on a rough course and the battery is shaken up.

2. 3mm is considered the minimum safe tread depth, though I have seen taxi drivers waiting till the tyre goes bald. What is important is that the tread is designed to expel water and mud through the gaps in the tread. If that is restricted then the tyre skids. Here are some interesting links which you should go through

http://www.rospa.com/roadsafety/advi...ead-depth.aspx
http://www.kwik-fit.com/uk-tyre-law.asp
http://www.fleetnews.co.uk/fleet-man...d-depth/36267/

[Niel@Figo]

Thanks sir for the suggestions!! I posted some pic of my tyre on the below thread also

http://www.team-bhp.com/forum/tyre-a...e-tyres-4.html

Shall read out your suggested links and also change the tyres asap!!

After checking the tyres physically and in front of other newer tyres, could spot the difference and as per suggestions here, 50k and 4.5 years seems quite a life for the MRF ZV2K!!

So, planning to get new shoes soon on the machine!!
Ditto for new battery!!

[rikhav]

Hi All

My car, a 2004 Fiat Petra 1.6 is having issues with the engine cooling fan

Without AC on, the engine fan kicks in at low speed after a certain temperature, cools the engine down and switches off. It maintains the temperature at about 50 percent mark

Since few weeks, the low speed fan does not start by itself and the engine starts heating up. I checked when the engine is heating and the fan is not spinning at all. Upon switching on the AC the fan as usual spins at the higher speed and the engine cools down and temperature stays at about 30 percent mark which is normal with AC

I did not check if the high speed fan kicks in after temperature crosses 75 percent mark

Now this can be either a relay issue, or a malfunctioning thermostat or a sensor which goes into the radiator

I just wanted to make sure its not the relay issue before sending the car to Select Auto, Dadar

Can anyone confirm various relays related to engine cooling fan are housed in a box just before the battery or not? The box is housed slightly lower then the battery and has some 3 or 4 relays

(I am assuming it should be at the same position for all versions of palio and petra)

Also is the 30 amp relay for the low speed fan which I need to replace and check

There is no proper information anywhere to confirm this, so if anyone can help with me this it would be really great

Thanks in advance

[SunnyBoi]

Its either the Fan Resistor or the Fan Relay which has gone kaput. The fan relay is present below the battery, not in the relay box next to the battery.

If the thermostat is busted then fan will be on at high speed all the time.

Order it below and get them changed at a nearby FNG

http://www.99rpm.com/fiat/radiator-fan-1-6-palio.html

[rikhav]

Hi Sunnyboi

Thanks for the reply.

Infact, the fan is staying on high speed. I thought its a different problem all together

Even after AC is switched off, the high speed fan stays on continuously for say next 15 to 20 mins without cutting off.

Once temperature starts rising, its an indication that fan has stopped so i swithc on AC for a while and switch it off. I basically switch on the AC to start the engine cooling fan

Should i still change the relay and check the behavior of the fan or the symptoms are that of a bad thermostat?

That black box below the battery has got 3 or 4 relays if i am not wrong. How can i determine which is one for the engine cooling fan or there will be only one 30 amp relay which is for the engine cooling fan?

Also where is the fan resistor located?

[SunnyBoi]

Originally Posted by rikhav

Hi Sunnyboi

Thanks for the reply.

Infact, the fan is staying on high speed. I thought its a different problem all together

Even after AC is switched off, the high speed fan stays on continuously for say next 15 to 20 mins without cutting off.

Once temperature starts rising, its an indication that fan has stopped so i swithc on AC for a while and switch it off. I basically switch on the AC to start the engine cooling fan

Should i still change the relay and check the behavior of the fan or the symptoms are that of a bad thermostat?

That black box below the battery has got 3 or 4 relays if i am not wrong. How can i determine which is one for the engine cooling fan or there will be only one 30 amp relay which is for the engine cooling fan?

Also where is the fan resistor located?

Those are indications of failing relay as well as failed resistor. Get them both. If low speed is not at all coming on then its 100% fault of fan resistor. Since you're getting the issue fixed, change both for a peace of mind since the relay also doesn't cost much.

The fan resistor is present on the radiator shroud, bottom left portion below the fan motor.

As long as the temperature gauge is working fine, there is no problems with the thermostat.

I think there are 2-3 relays in the box under the battery, Sorry but don't remember which one exactly it is right now.

[rikhav]

thanks sunniboi

I had got the whole thermostat housing changed just 2 or 3 years back so I also doubted it can go bad so soon
And I had opted for the original fiat one rather then the refurbished one
Also you are right, the Guage is showing the right temperature

Is changing the resistor also same as the relay? Or needs any kind of soldering ?

I will take a little risk and order the 2 parts from 99rpm and get it changed

Thanks a ton

[SunnyBoi]

Originally Posted by rikhav

Is changing the resistor also same as the relay? Or needs any kind of soldering ?

I will take a little risk and order the 2 parts from 99rpm and get it changed

No soldering required. Its a plug and play part. For both resistor and relay.

99rpm is a genuine website for Fiat original parts. I've been ordering from them since 1.5 years and never been disappointed.