[jhaji]

Originally Posted by Jeroen

Do you remember exactly what light or message appeared on the Dashboard.It was likely to be some sort of limp home mode as the engine was still running.

As it appears that it disappeared by itself it was likely to be a relatively small issue that made this happen. There could be a whole vast range of different issues that can cause it. On the upside, usually when it something really material it would store the code and it appears as if they couldn't find any stored fault codes.

I would not rule out the cable connection either. Modern car electronic will only work well when they get provided with a good power supply and grounding. One bad connection can give all sort of pecular behaviour, which often is very difficult to trouble shoot.

Thanks for your perspective on the problem, Jeroen. It is helpful. I am going now to pick up the car and would take a long test drive on a highway, if possible.

The sign that appeared is explained as 'engine malfunction' in the manual and the advice given is that do not drive further and get the car taken to the nearest workshop. I think there is no separate 'limp mode' sign in my car and I have not found anything in the manual either about limp mode.

The sign is further explained in the manual as indicating a malfunction in:
*The emission control system
*The electronic engine control system
*The electronic throttle control system

[jhaji]

Originally Posted by kpzen

How many kms has your car done ?

1. Check alternator.
2. Get the job card made for record purpose in case the same issue re-surfaces later.

Being a Toyota, I don't think you need worry much.

The car has run 40,700 kms. 40k service was done at 33,500 kms.
I will surely get a job card made. Thanks for the advice.

[dhanushs]

The engine check light in most cars will trigger a temperory limp mode. Clear the error codes and the clear the problem which is causing the error codes to pop up.

You should be ok.

[Jeroen]

Originally Posted by dhanushs

The engine check light in most cars will trigger a temperory limp mode. Clear the error codes and the clear the problem which is causing the error codes to pop up.

You should be ok.

No it doesn't. I would bet there are thousands if not hundreds of thousands of cars in India alone driving around with the CEL on permanently without any problems.

CEL and limp home (or whatever name is used) are two different things all together. The CEL was originally designed and implemented to monitor (mostly) environmental parameters and stuff of a car. You could be driving the worst polluting car in the world, with the CEL burning a whole in your dashboard, but still not find yourself, or your car rather, in "limp home mode.

A fuel cap not closing properly can set off the CEL, but it wont do anything for performance.

Jeroen

[jhaji]

Originally Posted by Jeroen

As it appears that it disappeared by itself it was likely to be a relatively small issue that made this happen. There could be a whole vast range of different issues that can cause it. On the upside, usually when it something really material it would store the code and it appears as if they couldn't find any stored fault codes.


Jeroen

Actually they did find two error codes. One is related to ECM problem regarding which they feel was caused by the loose battery connection. The other error code referred to fuel supply problem. They checked the fuel supply system according to some Toyota procedure but could not find any fault.

After picking up the car I took it for a 150 km drive on Greater Noida and Agra Expressway, since the problem had occurred on highway speeds after about one and a half hour of driving. The car was running perfectly fine and in fact the engine note seemed better than before. Probably a result of some cleaning and tightening that happened of the fuel supply parts as part of checking procedure.

I will keep my fingers crossed, at least till I finish my next long distance drive.

Edit: On second thoughts, all that the codes seem to be saying is what is written in the manual as two of the three possibilities on appearance of the engine check light: the fault may lie in the electronic engine control system and/or the electronic throttle control system. Nothing more specific. Unless the service adviser was translating the code in general terms for a layman's benefit.

[Jeroen]

Originally Posted by jhaji

I will keep my fingers crossed, at least till I finish my next long distance drive.

lets hope its gone, you just dont know in these cases.
Next time ask them for the actual codes, so we can look them up too and try and figure out what is wrong.

Jeroen

[syravi]

Following are the reasons why I experienced these in my 1 lac ownership of Wagon R LXI with CNG
• Wrong spark plug usage: My Wagon R CNG manual clearly mentions NGK KR6A spark Plugs to be used. The Service workshop changed it into some other model and this caused me lot of trouble. Please do not compromise on spark plugs
• The manual specified a gap of 1.0 mm but for some reason, the workshop guys insisted on keeping 0.7 - 0.8mm with a blanket reasoning that CNG cars should have this gap for fuel economy. But this gap gives vibration and drag and is not a good gap to keep. I went ahead with 1.0 mm gap and the performance is great and so is the mileage. Lesson learned: Don’t accept illogical reasoning which contradicts manual specifications. I even went to buy a 1.0 mm gauge to check spark plug gaps. It cost me 100 Rs. But is worth the investment
• Change Air filters every 5000 kms and clean every 2500 or earlier if you drive through dusty conditions – Here I will advice you to depart from the change recommended at 20,000 kms specified in the manual. That might apply to petrol engines not CNG variants. Why? Engine performance drop and the dirt clogging the filter is one you will see and readily acknowledge
• CNG filters (2 in case of Wagon R) other than air filters should be changed based on the recommended cycles in the manual. If you are getting a CNG kit retrofitted, talk to the dealer before you buy the kit about filter replacements. Even if he assures you, tell him you wish to buy them before hand as stock. If he gives excuses, be sure you wont get any filters to replace later and your engine performance will start going downhill after 20,000 kms
• Check the electric plug feeding into the throttle body or injectors (I forget)– In my case the repair guys told me that this part starts giving trouble anywhere between 80,000 onwards. Current supply is reduced. Replacing the electric plug (uses three feeding wires) enhanced the engine performance drastically. Don’t get this done by outside mechanics. The plug change required wires to be cut and may not be the perfect procedure. The other option was to go for a complete electric wire change which was very expensive. The plug change cost me 50 Rs. only
• Change spark plugs after 20,000 kms in case of CNG variants as even a slight deposit or wear affects performance drastically

[Sid-O]

This is my first post on here but I must admit I am quite puzzled by the issue that I'm having and so are half the mechanics I have taken the car to.

What essentially is happening is that whenever I get past the 2500 - 3000 rpm mark and try accelerating hard the spanner light comes on and the engine gets stuck at 2000 rpm and doesn't rev beyond that until I switch off the engine and bring the car to a stop and then start it up again. For as long as I drive around normally in the city and change gears economically the issue doesn't seem to crop up. Has anyone faced any similar issue like this with the Beat TCDI?

[shady_lawyer]

Originally Posted by Sid-O

What essentially is happening is that whenever I get past the 2500 - 3000 rpm mark and try accelerating hard the spanner light comes on and the engine gets stuck at 2000 rpm and doesn't rev beyond that until I switch off the engine and bring the car to a stop and then start it up again.

Is not 2k rpm the boost threshold for the fixed geometry turbo? It seems to me that the ECU is forcing the car into "limp mode" limiting the engine to 2k rpm. Secondly, The CEL lighting up means that the car is storing the error codes, which will show up on a scan. Have you taken your car to an ASC to download the error codes atleast?

If I were to hazard a guess, I would suspect the turbo and its plumbing especially since your trouble starts at 2.5k and plus rpm's resulting in the engine refusing to go beyond the boost threshold thereafter.

[nidheesh]

Your Vehicle enters fails-safe (Limp home) mode as its ECU detects some malfunction. As the MIL (Malfunction Indicator Lamp) is getting ON, it is sure that the ecu has stored the trouble codes. Do check this with ASC near by.

Have you observed any excess black smoke or whit smoke or any noise when the symptom occurs?

[prithm]

I am seeing this in my Maruti DZire (7 months old). I have a inclined traffic light near my house (Downhill towards boot side of the car), which means I have to climb when the signal turns Green. I have noticed this from day one, I have to really really push the car hard to climb up, but see other cars rushing past without any issue.

I have even made sure I have about 2000 RPM when climbing by keeping clutch engaged partially to get torque as well as engine RPM. But, it just doesnt budge. It climbs at a snails pace and when on level ground, all that pent up energy makes it zoom. Initially, I though this was due to fuel being pushed way back in the tank that the pump has hard time to get it to engine, but my car is bloody brand new.

Any ideas ?

[mayankk]

Originally Posted by prithm

I am seeing this in my Maruti DZire (7 months old). I have a inclined traffic light near my house (Downhill towards boot side of the car), which means I have to climb when the signal turns Green. I have noticed this from day one, I have to really really push the car hard to climb up, but see other cars rushing past without any issue.

I have even made sure I have about 2000 RPM when climbing by keeping clutch engaged partially to get torque as well as engine RPM. But, it just doesnt budge. It climbs at a snails pace and when on level ground, all that pent up energy makes it zoom. Initially, I though this was due to fuel being pushed way back in the tank that the pump has hard time to get it to engine, but my car is bloody brand new.

Any ideas ?

The lack of feel in the dzire's clutch makes this happen. You should try and modulate the clutch pedal differently on this incline, let it out a bit more. Probably, there's too little that you're releasing.
If you have no traffic, try and release the clutch completely once you have started it moving. You'll see your car sail through as well.

[ssjr0498]

Originally Posted by prithm

I am seeing this in my Maruti DZire (7 months old). I have a inclined traffic light near my house (Downhill towards boot side of the car), which means I have to climb when the signal turns Green. I have noticed this from day one, I have to really really push the car hard to climb up, but see other cars rushing past without any issue.

I have even made sure I have about 2000 RPM when climbing by keeping clutch engaged partially to get torque as well as engine RPM. But, it just doesnt budge. It climbs at a snails pace and when on level ground, all that pent up energy makes it zoom. Initially, I though this was due to fuel being pushed way back in the tank that the pump has hard time to get it to engine, but my car is bloody brand new.

Any ideas ?

Is this the first diesel (crdi) vehicle that you're driving? The reason why I ask is because I had experienced a similar situation when I bought my i20 diesel. It was my first diesel vehicle and getting used to the "ANTI STALL" and the "Torque limiter" and other nonsense took a while to get used to.

Please try this, during some time of the day when the traffic is sparse, take your car to this location and just before the incline starts, put the car in 1st, take your foot off the clutch. You will notice the car starts to move without you pressing the accelerator pedal (this is due to the anti stall on the newer diesel vehicles), once it starts moving, now press the accelerator pedal without trying to slip the clutch. I am sure you will find the car easily climbing up the incline.

This process does take some time getting used to, but I am sure once you get used to it, climbing inclines should'nt be a problem anymore!

[prithm]

Originally Posted by ssjr0498

Is this the first diesel (crdi) vehicle that you're driving? The reason why I ask is because I had experienced a similar situation when I bought my i20 diesel. It was my first diesel vehicle and getting used to the "ANTI STALL" and the "Torque limiter" and other nonsense took a while to get used to....

Thank you ssjr0498. Mine is the ZXi version (petrol) top end. I did try the method you suggested, slowly releasing the clutch in 1st gear, but if I do so, the car is either getting stuck at the same spot (engine running) or stalls.

Its very very embarrassing situation and just makes me angry every time. I am not sure if my car has all the tech that you told, but it is just not right with my car. I am a biker at heart, and to me this is just discouraging.

[prithm]

Originally Posted by ssjr0498

Is this the first diesel (crdi) vehicle that you're driving? The reason why I ask is because I had experienced a similar situation when I bought my i20 diesel. It was my first diesel vehicle and getting used to the "ANTI STALL" and the "Torque limiter" and other nonsense took a while to get used to.

Thanks ssjr0498. It is true what you said. But, my car either stays put or stalls when I try your method. Its just irritating.

Any idea if this has anything to do with fuel pump since accelerator doesn't seem to help in this case at all ?