[SS-Traveller]

Jammed lock barrel. Use a liberal amount of WD40 or similar spray into the keyhole. When you remove the key, the spring-loaded lock does not trip due to dust accumulation and/or lack of lubrication. You might also find that your steering lock is not engaging, apart from the auxiliary power supply (such as power to ICE) not turning off when the key is removed.

[Ayson]

Like SS said, seems to be a minor jam. You can spray WD40 or just apply 2T oil (50-100ml sachet available at pumps, or dispensed loose) or gear oil (min 500ml bottles) on your key body. Then, insert and remove a few times, turn a few times, but don't crank. Remove key, apply a few more drops, repeat process.

Two to three tries should free the locking assy., if not then MASS. PS, don't be stingy with the oil, apply 2-3 drops on both sides of the key. Avoid cooking oil.

[SS-Traveller]

Originally Posted by Ayson

...apply 2T oil... or gear oil...

Avoid viscous oils like 2T or gear oil - these attract and trap a lot of dust, and over a period of time will make the lock barrel more prone to jamming. If you cannot get WD40, a cheaper alternative is liberal usage of sewing machine oil.

[Ayson]

Originally Posted by SS-Traveller

Avoid viscous oils like 2T or gear oil - these attract and trap a lot of dust, and over a period of time will make the lock barrel more prone to jamming. If you cannot get WD40, a cheaper alternative is liberal usage of sewing machine oil.

All products have certain disadvantages with their advantages. The disadvantages of 2T and gear oil already being mentioned lets look at the other two.

WD-40 is not a lubricant, it is a penetrating oil and anti corrosion product. WD-40 contains solvents and propellants that can damage the rubber and plastic components inside the lock assy. and anywhere the spray mist reaches. It contains 51pc Stoddard solvent which is used for the purpose of cleaning oil and grease from metal surfaces. The penetrating effect may free the jammed lock, but proper lubrication will have to be done later to prevent a worse jam from occuring.

Sewing machine oil is also thin enough to strip the grease and other lubrication the OEM has applied in the lock assy.

Now, about dust entering, the lock assy. has a dust cover which engages when the key is removed, unless that is jammed too. After the OP's choice of lubricant has been applied and the key inserted and removed, there will be black sludge, ie old dust ang grease, in the grooves of the key, please wipe this off before re-inserting.

Originally Posted by trave11er

....The music system of my Fiesta can also be switched on without the ignition key, but this too is useful as the music can still be played by the passengers when I am not in the car and have to take the key with me....

There is a slight difference here. In your case, the ICE can be switch on after the key is removed, but if it was on while the key was engaged, it will turn off when the key is removed. It has to be restarted afterwards, and will run in the limited time mode. In the OP's case the ICE remains on even as the key is removed which is a defect.

[tsk1979]

If you cannot find WD 40, go for Zorrick 88 or similar. Available at all hardware stores, and similar formula as WD 40

[shankar.balan]

Originally Posted by tsk1979

If you cannot find WD 40, go for Zorrick 88 or similar. Available at all hardware stores, and similar formula as WD 40

Zorrik is very good. I use it to lubricate my bicycle chain and gear systems as well as the suspension and so on. Much better than the old style Singer Sewing Machine Oil that I used to use earlier!

[vikram_d]

Caution - Do not use WD40 for the ignition switch. It is highly flammable.

One small spark and it might just go boom.

I hope you have not used it yet. There is a similar spray which is specifically meant for electrical connections and that is not flammable.

Edit: There is another problem with WD40. It never dries and that means any dust coming into contact with it will stick to it. This in some cases is a good thing as dust is an insulator.

[SS-Traveller]

Originally Posted by Ayson

WD-40 is not a lubricant, it is a penetrating oil and anti corrosion product. WD-40 contains solvents and propellants that can damage the rubber and plastic components inside the lock assy. and anywhere the spray mist reaches. It contains 51pc Stoddard solvent...
...proper lubrication will have to be done later...

I thought...

The long-term active ingredient is a non-volatile, viscous oil which remains on the surface, providing lubrication and protection from moisture.
Source

...and when sprayed into a lock barrel, it does not come into contact with plastic parts. It might be fun to take apart a car's ignition switch and take a good look at how it works (but don't necessarily expect to reassemble it and make it work again )

Originally Posted by vikram_d

Caution - Do not use WD40 for the ignition switch. It is highly flammable.

One small spark and it might just go boom.

The volatile "boom" ingredients evaporate in just a very few seconds, Vikram, and the stuff sprayed on the lock pins will not come into contact with the area where sparking MAY happen (usually it doesn't). It's that 51% Stoddard's solvent, aka white spirit or lighter fuel, which does pose a question about explosions, but the stuff evaporates before you can frame an answer.

[Ayson]

The OP doesn't even seem to be interested, but ill post this last reply to clear things from my side.

Originally Posted by SS-Traveller

....I thought...

A few google search first page results for the term 'WD-40 as lubricant':

http://bicycletutor.com/no-wd40-bike-chain/
http://www.hardwareheaven.com/flame-...lubricant.html
http://www.popularmechanics.com/cars...-of-lubricants
http://diy.stackexchange.com/questio...-not-use-wd-40

I will not repeat their contents here, since they essentially echo my earlier post. (Some links have less than mild language, please don't blame me, thay are just 4 random links from the first result page.)

The name itself is Water Displacement - Attempt 40. The ineffectiveness of WD-40 as a lubricant is quite a well known fact in the mechanic's world. But yes it is an unmatched product for its actual purpose, eg: freeing a stuck bolt, a jammed hinge etc....

If it were a good lubricant, the possibilities would be endless considering its ease of application. Sleeved cables (throttle), lever pivots, etc... are painstakingly dis-assembled and greased or oiled and not sparayed with WD and the excess wiped off. A search similar to the one above, will reveal the plastic and rubber attcking properties.

Originally Posted by SS-Traveller

...and when sprayed into a lock barrel, it does not come into contact with plastic parts. It might be fun to take apart a car's ignition switch and take a good look at how it works...

It is not fun at all if you've done it, and not at all worth the effort. If anyone really wants to see the insides, look up a 3D diagram, cut-away or a video. I have opened up the lock assy. of a modern motorcycle or two, and they have metal, plastic, rubber and sometimes even ceramic parts. I was operating under the assumption that a car lock assy. is similar in construction. If not, then my statements are invalid. Also, the spray mist (not much) and condensed solvent will (may) leak from the base of the assy. into the the steering column, containing plastic parts, but the lock assy. is the real concern.

If you believe, from experience, that WD-40 is a good lubricant, then i will say no further.

Finaly, i would say it doesn't matter. Be it WD-40 or gear oil or 2T or sewing machine or Zorrik, the damage would not be significant in the service life of the vehicle and you would have to re-apply atleast once in 6 months to keep things happy.

Originally Posted by SS-Traveller

The volatile "boom" ingredients evaporate in just a very few seconds, Vikram, and the stuff sprayed on the lock pins will not come into contact with the area where sparking MAY happen (usually it doesn't). It's that 51% Stoddard's solvent, aka white spirit or lighter fuel, which does pose a question about explosions, but the stuff evaporates before you can frame an answer.

I agree Low voltage and low current electricity doesn't spark that easily, spark won't be hot enough to ignite white spirit or mineral oil and the LPG would have evaporated instantly and none of it enough to go boom.

OP, please update, we (i) want to know wassup.

[SS-Traveller]

Originally Posted by Ayson

The OP doesn't even seem to be interested...
OP, please update, we (i) want to know wassup.

Sometimes the best advice is not necessarily accepted. Maybe OP has already replaced the lock barrel... But I think it is certainly enlightening for a lot of us to discuss WD40/Zorrik versus other lubricants here, to clear up misconceptions. In fact, may I request mods to change the title to "WD-40 / Zorrik : Uses, Restrictions, Limitations & Pitfalls", or allow migration of the discussion to a fresh thread with the above title.

Originally Posted by Ayson

http://bicycletutor.com/no-wd40-bike-chain/
http://www.hardwareheaven.com/flame-...lubricant.html
http://www.popularmechanics.com/cars...-of-lubricants
http://diy.stackexchange.com/questio...-not-use-wd-40
The ineffectiveness of WD-40 as a lubricant is quite a well known fact in the mechanic's world. But yes it is an unmatched product for its actual purpose, eg: freeing a stuck bolt, a jammed hinge etc....
If it were a good lubricant, the possibilities would be endless considering its ease of application.

I agree with you, it certainly is not a heavy-duty lubricant. But then http://bicycletutor.com/no-wd40-bike-chain/ clearly states that

It also works wonders as a light lubricant on small items like hinges, locks, and toys.

Essentially, therefore, WD-40 is a poor lubricant for high-pressure / high-speed components requiring lubrication, where the oil film is likely to break down due to heat/pressure/both - but where light duty is concerned, like locks and hinges, it works great. (@Ayson, you might want to correct me if I am getting things wrong, since putting one's point across in a civil manner hardly needs one to state as below...).

Originally Posted by Ayson

ill post this last reply to clear things from my side.
....then i will say no further.

Originally Posted by Ayson

It is not fun at all if you've done it, and not at all worth the effort. If anyone really wants to see the insides, look up a 3D diagram, cut-away or a video.

LOL, in the days when I first did that, neither the internet, nor graphic videos on YouTube, existed. And it was fun because that was the only way one learnt then!

Originally Posted by Ayson

I have opened up the lock assy. of a modern motorcycle or two, and they have metal, plastic, rubber and sometimes even ceramic parts. I was operating under the assumption that a car lock assy. is similar in construction. If not, then my statements are invalid.

The plastics and electrics are in a separate section removed from the main lock barrel (this is so even in a motorcycle lock). The engagement of the spring-loaded deadbolt which locks the steering (an additional turn of the key is usually required to lock handlebars IIRC, there is no spring loaded deadbolt), also cuts off power supply to the accessories - in the case of the OP, I suspect this spring-loaded lock was not tripping, hence AUX power supply is not getting disconnected.

Originally Posted by Ayson

Also, the spray mist (not much) and condensed solvent will (may) leak from the base of the assy. into the the steering column, containing plastic parts, but the lock assy. is the real concern.

The lock assy. per se does not usually contain plastic parts AFAIK.

Originally Posted by Ayson

If you believe, from experience, that WD-40 is a good lubricant...

Not in situations where speed / load / heat are a concern, WD-40 is certainly not a good lubricant, in fact it is a BAD lubricant! But for locks and hinges, I'd say it is worth the 10-second effort with a can, even if...

you would have to re-apply atleast once in 6 months to keep things happy.

...sewing machine...

A favourite of mine for light duty applications is sewing machine oil aka 3-in-1 oil. Of course, for really high-speed lubrication applications, there is nothing to beat the lubricant spray used in a dentist's drill (the ultra-high-speed pneumatic handpiece). Try this for lubricating bearings in high-rpm power tools some time. Easy to apply too, spray on like WD-40/Zorrik.

Low voltage and low current electricity doesn't spark that easily, spark won't be hot enough to ignite white spirit or mineral oil and the LPG would have evaporated instantly...

Thanks.

[vikram_d]

Originally Posted by SS-Traveller

The volatile "boom" ingredients evaporate in just a very few seconds, Vikram, and the stuff sprayed on the lock pins will not come into contact with the area where sparking MAY happen (usually it doesn't). It's that 51% Stoddard's solvent, aka white spirit or lighter fuel, which does pose a question about explosions, but the stuff evaporates before you can frame an answer.

Well you learn something new everyday.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tOfDwOSDLYM

[dadu]

Here in Bangalore you get the Teflon based Dupont lubricants at Decathalon, dont know its effectiveness but its meant for those imported bicycles and hopefully should work better.

[TaurusAl]

Originally Posted by Ayson

The OP doesn't even seem to be interested, but ill post this last reply to clear things from my side.

I am sorry but this is a completely different thread and I some how missed it. I tried inserting and turning the key vigorously and it is working fine now. I think some elements were stuck inside due to the monsoon humidity.

[aargee]

My use on WD40...

- Bike key holes, where it also acts as water repellent
- Degreaser; better than petrol because of the added pressure from the canister helps to remove the dirts from the corner of alloy wheels, weights at the wheels
- Clean the keys, carbs, one spray to remove the dirt from the heads of the bolts so that screw driver can slot in easily
- Loosen up the brake oil drain bolt that gets tightened easily due to metal-metal bonding + rust & dust

[Sutripta]

Originally Posted by tsk1979

If you cannot find WD 40, go for Zorrick 88 or similar. Available at all hardware stores, and similar formula as WD 40

Hi,
One needs to be a bit careful with the 'or similar', esp in this day of brand extentions. eg. Rustolene: has two versions. The 'maintenance spray' is similar to WD40. However, their original product (for freeing up rusted bolts) is quite corrosive.

Recommended lubricant for locks is graphite.

Regards
Sutripta