[sridhar24]

Originally Posted by hserus

If you do city driving as well change within 10k. As for the other two oils, they are not rated for the Scorpio or XUV

Yes about 30% of driving would be city conditions, the rest is mainly highway usage.

And my bad about the other alternatives oils i asked, which do not suite diesel engines.
Probably the alternate i should have asked was "Mobil 1 FS X2 5W40" which is rated "ACEA B3/B3 & A3/B4", thought it's not mentioned in API rating.

[hserus]

They will work to an extent, given the spec is "petrol and light duty diesel engines" but are not going to stretch to 10k km that well.

If you want Shell fill Shell Rimula R4 15w40. Yes it is Mineral. Yes it will last you 10k++ km.

Originally Posted by sridhar24

Yes about 30% of driving would be city conditions, the rest is mainly highway usage.

And my bad about the other alternatives oils i asked, which do not suite diesel engines.
Probably the alternate i should have asked was "Mobil 1 FS X2 5W40" which is rated "ACEA B3/B3 & A3/B4", thought it's not mentioned in API rating.

[sridhar24]

Originally Posted by hserus

They will work to an extent, given the spec is "petrol and light duty diesel engines" but are not going to stretch to 10k km that well.

If you want Shell fill Shell Rimula R4 15w40. Yes it is Mineral. Yes it will last you 10k++ km.

Thanks again for the suggestion on the Shell Rimula R4 15W40, I'm planning on trying it out this time.

I have another query with respect to the oil filter. As i have noticed most of the time with periodic service at Mahindra service centers, the oil filter is replaced as well along with the oil replacement. Though i see that as per the maintenance schedule, every 20K KM only replacement is required for the Oil filter.

So is it ok to just replace or change the oil at this time at a nearby garage without replacing the oil filter?

[hserus]

Originally Posted by sridhar24

So is it ok to just replace or change the oil at this time at a nearby garage without replacing the oil filter?

Why ask such peace of mind affecting questions for a part worth a few hundred rupees? Change your oil filter and AC filter, at least clean the air filter every time you change oil. (The air filter is rated to 40k km, and usually lasts at least 30k km if periodically cleaned, unless you're driving in particularly dusty conditions)

[Panneer Selven]

Hi guys..
I have a 2013 Xuv500 w6 whose clutch was replaced at 125k Kms and engine oil and filter service done at 130k km , currently the odo reads 134.4k Kms.
Since 130k Kms I have been facing a peculiar issue, which is, whenever I attempted to start the engine, the starting is like when you just turn the key to the ignition point and leave immediately instead of holding the key or its like the engine would refuse to start or stall immediately. However it's not like I have to hold the key for long, it starts immediately, and the car acts and drives normally as if nothing happened. It happens on both cold and hot starts and happens 90% of the time. My questions are:
1. Is it a big deal or should I ignore it?
2. Is it related to air filter/ starter motor/ rat issues (as I had rats chewing on some sponge In the engine bay in 2019, could the sponge be air filter related or some AC line insulator [AC works fine])
3. How does my modifications look😀?
I modified the headlights to look like the 2015 model and wrapped the grill and part of the bumper to look like a modern day Dodge charger or a Lexus LX



This is what the Dodge Charger and Lexus LX 570 look like

[Panneer Selven]

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[9tMax]

My car - 2nd gen XUV W6, purchased in Feb, 2016, run 65k km till now. Usage is mostly on highways with very limited city runs. As a driver I am a very sedate one. Even the brake pads also has not required a replacement till now.
Last week, one morning I am on my way to office. There is this 1 km stretch of road where some repairing and widening work is going on for almost last one year with no signs of completion in near future.
I am crawling through this stretch. The speed of the traffic is such that without accelerator input crawling in 1st gear will be too slow and that with 2nd gear will be too fast. So in 2nd gear I am pressing and releasing the clutch pedal continuously in cycles to keep pace with the traffic. And then it happens - suddenly I hear a small "khat" sound along with a slight vibration felt on my left foot as if some wire has snapped and immediately the clutch becomes super hard to press. With all my strength I somehow push the clutch pedal all the way down and I am able to shift back to neutral. I see that the clutch is coming back to some extent from its fully pressed position but then it is super hard to press.
My immediate feeling is that the dreaded clutch slave cylinder has busted - from all my readings of this thread. Would also like to add that as a result of my knowledge gained after going through this thread, have been religiously following the practice of releasing the clutch fully before giving any accelerator input from day 1.
Somehow I managed to drive slowly in 2nd gear to the nearest MASS. On the way I check for the pick up and there is no loss of pick up or any other problem - I can even shift to 3rd or 4th gear after attaining proper speed. Only the clutch needs all my strength to push and the engagement range has moved towards the last couple of inches of the pedal's play in stead of being at the beginning of the pedal movement.
Left the car in the MASS and the clutch cover plate assembly was changed along with the slave cylinder. When they gave the car back to me after 2 days, I asked for the replaced parts and this is what they gave to me - 3 fingers of the diaphragm spring are bent and out of alignment. Don't find any problem with the slave cylinder - no oil leakage anywhere. And the friction plate also looks pretty healthy. The rivets are still quite a few mm down in the holes. The SA tells me that the entire problem was because of the bent fingers as you can see in the photo.
But what I am not able to understand is how the fingers can bend like that? Tried googling it, but didn't get any proper explanation. Everywhere it says clutch will become hard if the fingers break or get misaligned, but nobody explains why will it happen at the first place. Can the experts here give some comments?

[PGA]

Originally Posted by 9tMax

My car - 2nd gen XUV W6, purchased in Feb, 2016, run 65k km till now. - The SA tells me that the entire problem was because of the bent fingers as you can see in the photo.

IMHO the problem narrated doesn't match up to their diagnosis. XUV has hydraulic clutch and only feedback you have is from master cylinder.

Bent fingers of diaphragm spring are most likely manufacturing/ assembly defect or metal fatigue which again points in the same direction.

[9tMax]

Originally Posted by Panneer Selven

Hi guys..
I have a 2013 Xuv500 w6 whose clutch was replaced at 125k Kms and engine oil and filter service done at 130k km , currently the odo reads 134.4k Kms.

@ Panneer Selven: You have mentioned a clutch replacement at 125k km - was it the first replacement or 2nd ? In case you were running on the stock clutch for 125k km then that's a great thing.

Originally Posted by PGA

IMHO the problem narrated doesn't match up to their diagnosis. XUV has hydraulic clutch and only feedback you have is from master cylinder.

Bent fingers of diaphragm spring are most likely manufacturing/ assembly defect or metal fatigue which again points in the same direction.

That's exactly my apprehension too. Only a few sources which talk about reason for bent fingers say that it is either manufacturing defect or incorrect assembly procedure. But in both cases it should have manifested long long ago, why after 65k km?
Or did the MASS just gave me back some random clutch cover assembly when I asked them to show the replaced part? It was not lying in the car when I went to pick up the car. Only after I asked them to show me the piece which they have replaced, they asked the mechanic to bring it from inside the workshop and he came back with this set. I tried finding the manufacturing date on the assembly to clear my doubt but couldn't find anything.
My main intention is to find out what went wrong and what can I do to prevent the same from happening again in near future? Because me and and my wife travel a lot through deserted highways at night and I won't like to face this situation again on some lonely highway at some unearthly hours.
Also, now that you mention about feedback from master cylinder, I recall that I was experiencing a slight waviness in the power delivery since some time in the recent past, particularly while going up a steep slope leading to my parking spot. This waviness is not there now, post the repairing job.

[Panneer Selven]

Originally Posted by 9tMax

@ Panneer Selven: You have mentioned a clutch replacement at 125k km - was it the first replacement or 2nd ? In case you were running on the stock clutch for 125k km then that's a great thing.

Actually I purchased this car 2nd hand. The clutch went out literally 4 days after buying it. But as per the car's previous maintenance bills , there was no mention of clutch from the original owner buying the car. So I think it was the stock clutch.

[Panneer Selven]

Guys,
A Xuv500w8 2012 model of my friends, suddenly activated and burst all the airbags while the car was in motion (no accident or anything) and the entire car lost power. I was in the 3rd row seat at the time of this incident and was too shocked at that time to take a photo or anything. What could have been the cause (short circuit?)

[hserus]

Originally Posted by Panneer Selven

Guys,
A Xuv500w8 2012 model of my friends, suddenly activated and burst all the airbags while the car was in motion (no accident or anything) and the entire car lost power. I was in the 3rd row seat at the time of this incident and was too shocked at that time to take a photo or anything. What could have been the cause (short circuit?)

No way to tell unless Mahindra scans the vehicle and finds out from the ECU what happened. Short circuit or fuse failure is certainly a possible cause.

[Panneer Selven]

Originally Posted by hserus

No way to tell unless Mahindra scans the vehicle and finds out from the ECU what happened. Short circuit or fuse failure is certainly a possible cause.

There was a small burning smell, but I thought it could have been due to the airbags connectors getting melted

[Panneer Selven]

Originally Posted by Panneer Selven

Hi guys..
I have a 2013 Xuv500 w6 whose clutch was replaced at 125k Kms and engine oil and filter service done at 130k km , currently the odo reads 134.4k Kms.
Since 130k Kms I have been facing a peculiar issue, which is, whenever I attempted to start the engine, the starting is like when you just turn the key to the ignition point and leave immediately instead of holding the key or its like the engine would refuse to start or stall immediately. However it's not like I have to hold the key for long, it starts immediately, and the car acts and drives normally as if nothing happened. It happens on both cold and hot starts and happens 90% of the time. My questions are:
1. Is it a big deal or should I ignore it?
2. Is it related to air filter/ starter motor/ rat issues (as I had rats chewing on some sponge In the engine bay in 2019, could the sponge be air filter related or some AC line insulator [AC works fine])
3. How does my modifications look😀?
I modified the headlights to look like the 2015 model and wrapped the grill and part of the bumper to look like a modern day Dodge charger or a Lexus LX

Attachment 2061807

This is what the Dodge Charger and Lexus LX 570 look like

Attachment 2061893

Attachment 2061894

Guys can anyone help me with this as the sound was a little worse today and I don't want to have to face the larger problem it may cause

[CSA]

Originally Posted by 9tMax

My car - 2nd gen XUV W6, purchased in Feb, 2016, run 65k km till now. Usage is mostly on highways with very limited city runs. As a driver I am a very sedate one. Even the brake pads also has not required a replacement till now.
Last week, one morning I am on my way to office. There is this 1 km stretch of road where some repairing and widening work is going on for almost last one year with no signs of completion in near future.
I am crawling through this stretch. The speed of the traffic is such that without accelerator input crawling in 1st gear will be too slow and that with 2nd gear will be too fast. So in 2nd gear I am pressing and releasing the clutch pedal continuously in cycles to keep pace with the traffic. And then it happens - suddenly I hear a small "khat" sound along with a slight vibration felt on my left foot as if some wire has snapped and immediately the clutch becomes super hard to press. With all my strength I somehow push the clutch pedal all the way down and I am able to shift back to neutral. I see that the clutch is coming back to some extent from its fully pressed position but then it is super hard to press.
My immediate feeling is that the dreaded clutch slave cylinder has busted - from all my readings of this thread. Would also like to add that as a result of my knowledge gained after going through this thread, have been religiously following the practice of releasing the clutch fully before giving any accelerator input from day 1.
Somehow I managed to drive slowly in 2nd gear to the nearest MASS. On the way I check for the pick up and there is no loss of pick up or any other problem - I can even shift to 3rd or 4th gear after attaining proper speed. Only the clutch needs all my strength to push and the engagement range has moved towards the last couple of inches of the pedal's play in stead of being at the beginning of the pedal movement.
Left the car in the MASS and the clutch cover plate assembly was changed along with the slave cylinder. When they gave the car back to me after 2 days, I asked for the replaced parts and this is what they gave to me - 3 fingers of the diaphragm spring are bent and out of alignment. Don't find any problem with the slave cylinder - no oil leakage anywhere. And the friction plate also looks pretty healthy. The rivets are still quite a few mm down in the holes. The SA tells me that the entire problem was because of the bent fingers as you can see in the photo.
But what I am not able to understand is how the fingers can bend like that? Tried googling it, but didn't get any proper explanation. Everywhere it says clutch will become hard if the fingers break or get misaligned, but nobody explains why will it happen at the first place. Can the experts here give some comments?

I changed more than 200 Clutches till now and never saw Spring Fingers bent like this one. Diaphragm Spring fingers might bend slightly because of misalignment present in release bearing. Residual material from wearing clutch deposits over sliding surface of release bearing which causes misalignment but again its not extreme. There is a small removable plate located in some car's where transmission meets engine so that residual material can be removed using compressed air during preventive maintenance. But I am sure in this breakdown of your car, its slave cylinder failed or maybe only the plunger got stuck somehow. Again part failure can't be controlled so don't worry Enjoy your ride.