[sumeetchawla]

Hey everyone!

I have been taking care of my car from the outside by washing myself using a pressure washer etc.

But the other day I bought a betadine solution and kept it on the car seat. I forgot to take it out and it leaked. Even though it was in a plastic packet, it still left stains on the seat. I feel so bad and guilty.

What do you recommend is the best way to get this cleaned? Or should I approach a professional detailer? Or there is no hope and I have to just accept and move on




Thank you so much for all the knowledge you all share. Been really helpful.

[Rodie09]

A quick search on the net tells there are stain removers for Bitadene available at local pharmacists. Have you checked? However, do check out for some videos also before jumping in. If you are not sure then a detailer may be a better option.

[sumeetchawla]

Originally Posted by Rodie09

A quick search on the net tells there are stain removers for Bitadene available at local pharmacists. Have you checked? However, do check out for some videos also before jumping in. If you are not sure then a detailer may be a better option.

Yes, I did do some research and mostly chatGPT guided about using baking soda paste + vinegar etc. I was a bit skeptical to put anything on the seat cause they are ventilated. I actually never searched the precise terms of "betadine stain remover" which was my mistake. Google does give that as the first result. Darn!

I was mostly searching for remove stain from ventilated leather car seats. My bad.

Thank you so much for prompting me in the right direction. I will do some more research on if it's leather friendly and also safe enough for ventilated seats.

[sumeetchawla]

The Betadine stain remover is supposedly mostly available in the US. I just found one vendor on India mart who sells in bulk. Will find out a source where it’s easily available and update it here. Maybe might be helpful for someone in the future.

[neo_the_one]

Sir the color of the Betadine is due to povidone-iodine. Sodium thiosulfate (also called hypo) is the salt that can easily remove the stain. You can either buy it from any online portal or ask any of your children to get it from their chemistry lab as it is used for iodometric titrations in chemistry lab.

[Mortis]

Originally Posted by neo_the_one

Sir the color of the Betadine is due to povidone-iodine. Sodium thiosulfate (also called hypo) is the salt that can easily remove the stain. You can either buy it from any online portal or ask any of your children to get it from their chemistry lab as it is used for iodometric titrations in chemistry lab.

If indeed sodium thiosulphate is the appropriate stain remover then the easiest place to get it would be from an aquarium shop. A solution of sodium thiosulphate is used to dechlorinate the water when you change it.
I don't know if a specific concentration is required for stain removal or what the standard concentration of the dechlorinator is though but you can get it and try. It is also known as "hypo" and you do get it in crystal form if you need to make a solution of specific concentration.
Pick the "local" version as it's a pure solution. The branded ones would have additives. Let us know how it turns out.

[s.sriram1989@gm]

Originally Posted by Gordon

Pepsi....for tyres. 40 bucks for 1.5L and the shine wouldnt last even a day. Tyre foam costs around 150-200 bucks and one spray would last for around 10-15 days. And the whole can would last for around a year depending on the frequency of the usage. Pepsi has an expiry date of 3 months.

What if Ants find the tyres attractive with sweet syrup sprayed all over.

[dearchichi]

I have 5-month old Innova HyCross. I haven't opted for PPF or ceramic coating, and the paint hasn't been waxed or sealed.

It's not been driven around much: the odometer was about 2300KM when we left for a 1200KM 4 days back. It's often parked in the basement, and thus protected from harsh sunlight and bird loop.

I like everything about the car but for it's colour, Blackish Ageha, which is difficult to maintain since even a light dusting over it shows prominently from the driver's position (the bonnet appears dusty).

I've been unfortunate enough to have to drive through rain almost everytime I take it out, including the past 4 days that saw sustained showers in South India. The car consequently appears very dirty after each drive.

Although I use a pressure washer and 3M car shampoo to manually wash the car once a week, the paint surfaces do not appear clean when examined under a flashlight. I'm worried if some of the dirt or mud has bonded to the paint while it was left to stand between washes after a wet ride.

What compound/shampoo can I use to loosen these stains? Looks like the 3M shampoo is too timid for this. Also, please recommend a foam shampoo that I could use on a consistent basis.

[AJ56]

Originally Posted by dearchichi

Although I use a pressure washer and 3M car shampoo to manually wash the car once a week, the paint surfaces do not appear clean when examined under a flashlight. I'm worried if some of the dirt or mud has bonded to the paint while it was left to stand between washes after a wet ride.

What compound/shampoo can I use to loosen these stains? Looks like the 3M shampoo is too timid for this. Also, please recommend a foam shampoo that I could use on a consistent basis.

It’s a beautiful colour, an aquamarine blue in sunlight and closer to black at night.

First off I’d use a strip shampoo like CarPro Reset to remove anything that the 3M isn’t able to clean. For maintenance washes switch back a gentler show foam like Koch Chemie GSF/Adams Megafoam.

Now after this step if your paint feels anything short of smooth as glass then it has bonded contamination that needs abrasives to remove.

Visually check for any black or rust coloured dots (specially on the lower sections), if you see any, use Carpro TRIX (tar and ferrous remover), after this start claying.

Follow through with a light cut polish like Menzerna 3000/Rupes UnoPure, use a soft foam pad like LC black/blue or Shinemate black/red paired with a rotary. IPA wipe and apply your preferred protection.

I’m suggesting a polish and not a compound as no point unnecessarily abrading brand new paint (unless you have heavy swirls, then you’ll need a compound - use Menzerna 400).

If not comfortable with a machine you can hand polish but results will not be as consistent and it’ll take a few days to finish the entire vehicle. What healthy and clean paint looks like under bright lights (Hycross, same shade)-

[dearchichi]

Originally Posted by AJ56

First off I’d use a strip shampoo like CarPro Reset to remove anything that the 3M isn’t able to clean. For maintenance washes switch back a gentler show foam like /Adams Megafoam.

Visually check for any black or rust coloured dots (specially on the lower sections), if you see any, use Carpro TRIX (tar and ferrous remover), after this start claying.

Thank you Anish for your pellucid response as usual, while also including a reference image. It's much appreciated.

I've ordered CarPro Reset, Koch Chemie GSF and CarPro TRIX from Planet CarCare. I'm guessing that CarPro Reset should not be mixed with a foaming solution and be used independently with a wash mitt after diluting it with water. How long must I let it to soak in after such an application before rinsing?

I'll go in for polishing if needed after I've inspected the results that the Reset delivers.

Should CarPro TRIX be used only along the lower surfaces of the car and the wheels (and not on other body panels)?

For cleaning glass, you've recommend only IPA before. Is there a specific brand your recommend?

Thank you.

[AJ56]

Originally Posted by dearchichi

I've ordered CarPro Reset, Koch Chemie GSF and CarPro TRIX from Planet CarCare. I'm guessing that CarPro Reset should not be mixed with a foaming solution and be used independently with a wash mitt after diluting it with water. How long must I let it to soak in after such an application before rinsing?

Should CarPro TRIX be used only along the lower surfaces of the car and the wheels (and not on other body panels)?

For cleaning glass, you've recommend only IPA before. Is there a specific brand your recommend?

Thank you.

Anytime.

Carpro Reset is a foaming shampoo itself, just dillute with water from your water filter in the recommended ratios.

It can be used in a foam cannon attached to a pressure washer or you can use in a bucket. Either way, use multiple wash mitts and work top to bottom using one side of each mitt per panel.

After foaming it up, give it 3-4 minutes and start wiping with your mitts. Do not work in direct sunlight or on hot paint as you risk hard water spots.

TRIX is safe on every exterior surface provided you’re quick to wipe it off and don’t let it dwell too long. It’s a strong solvent though and while safe on paint, it’s not healthy to breathe or let it touch your skin.

What I do is, spray into my first towel and spray the area to be treated, in 10-12 secs start gently wiping it into the same area. This prevents any drips from forming, which on certain paints (matte finishes for eg.) can cause irreversible damage with drip lines.

Next use some APC or diluted car shampoo to neutralise it and use your second towel to buff the haze off. If doing large sections it’s often quicker to just wash the entire car again.

Yes for glass I suggest 25% IPA - 75% distilled water mixed in a spray bottle. Ensure the IPA concentrate you’re using is at least 99% strength as sometimes you can get premixed IPA, which will throw the ratio off.

If you don’t want to bother mixing, you can get pre mixed panel prep like Carpro Eraser, which is basically a mix of water and IPA.

I’ve used IPA from Cero over the years and never had any issues. https://www.amazon.in/Cero-Propyl-Al...8&gad_source=1

[dearchichi]

Hi Anish.

Originally Posted by AJ56

What healthy and clean paint looks like under bright lights (Hycross, same shade)-

Below are from my car. I can already see swirl marks.



I've ended up with these though I've been careful to:

- not use dirty, gritty cloths
- avoid circular motions while washing and wiping
- lubricate the panels with shampoo before contact wash

Some mistakes that have contributed to these:

- not lubricating the panels well-enough (not using foam wash but simply splashing shampoo water over the panels before wiping)
- applying force on the panels while wiping/drying
- not using cloths of the right GSM (< 500)
- allowing commercial car wash personnel to wipe the car (though I've never had a contact wash done through them)
- not using a leaf blower for drying (I've a 600W blower, but it is are slow and tedious to use)

The photo you posted is nearly perfect in comparison. Can an owner expect to maintain such a swirl-free finish while using good washing techniques and without any polishing?

Below is a panel which has mud stains despite washing it.


Do you think these have bonded with the clear coat or the paint/metal? I'm getting the CarPro Reset delivered only next Monday. Can the strip wash wait until that time? I don't want the defects to erode through to the paint or metal.

Thank you.

[Cresterk]

Originally Posted by dearchichi

Hi Anish.



Below are from my car. I can already see swirl marks.
Attachment 2671248
Attachment 2671251

I've ended up with these though I've been careful to:

- not use dirty, gritty cloths
- avoid circular motions while washing and wiping
- lubricate the panels with shampoo before contact wash
.

Thank you.

It is probably not even your fault. My brand new car was delivered to me with even worse swirls and microscratches all over from the dealership washing it after transport. You are not going to get flawless paint like the picture posted unless you pay for professional paint correction from a decent detailer. Ceramic coating packages generally include 1 step or 2 step paint correction after the decontamination wash before applying the coating.

https://cdn-ilafncf.nitrocdn.com/npq...riginal-6.jpeg

[AJ56]

Originally Posted by dearchichi

Below are from my car. I can already see swirl marks.

I've ended up with these though I've been careful to:

- not use dirty, gritty cloths
- avoid circular motions while washing and wiping
- lubricate the panels with shampoo before contact wash

Some mistakes that have contributed to these:

- not lubricating the panels well-enough (not using foam wash but simply splashing shampoo water over the panels before wiping)
- applying force on the panels while wiping/drying
- not using cloths of the right GSM (< 500)
- allowing commercial car wash personnel to wipe the car (though I've never had a contact wash done through them)
- not using a leaf blower for drying (I've a 600W blower, but it is are slow and tedious to use)

Do you think these have bonded with the clear coat or the paint/metal? I'm getting the CarPro Reset delivered only next Monday. Can the strip wash wait until that time? I don't want the defects to erode through to the paint or metal.

Thank you.

It’s difficult to say for sure without seeing in person but those seem like hard water spots. Use Puris D19 (mineral deposit remover) on them and they’ll be gone. If any etching remains, it will need to be polished out.

With mineral deposits, they can start to etch into the clearcoat if left long enough but 7-8 days won’t be an issue. Rain never causes these, it’s most likely where you’re parking.

Yes, goes without saying you want super clean, plush, edgeless and tagless towels/mitts whenever touching the paint.

Circular motion is a myth, if it’s scratching in a circle, it will scratch in a straight line as well. Never let anyone wipe/touch your paint unless you trust their method completely. This includes the dealer/service centre.

A very common mistake during the contact step I’ve seen even other detailers do is not switching the towel/mitt after every panel, one side per panel then flip. You should use 6-8 mitts for the entire car.

If you must have it washed by anyone whom you don’t fully trust, limit them to a a rinse-foam-rinse on the paint and wheels, without any contact. Glass they can wipe as it’s much harder to scratch.

When done regularly, touchless washing and drying can achieve 90-95% clean paint with zero contact, takes under 10 mins with the right tools.

Will add that new cars always come with light to moderate swirls courtesy improper washing by the dealer and some light sandpaper scuffs in nearly every case. You need to correct it once and protect it, safe washing ensure you don’t have to polish again and again as it’s not healthy for the paint.

Originally Posted by dearchichi

The photo you posted is nearly perfect in comparison. Can an owner expect to maintain such a swirl-free finish while using good washing techniques and without any polishing?

Yes absolutely, you’ve probably seen my cars so I won’t mention the lack of swirls I have despite all my cars being over a decade old with super soft black paint.

I can speak for over a 100 older cars that haven’t been polished in years and still have swirl free paint with a healthy coating that was applied many years ago but still beads well. The owners are very particular that’s all, they’ve followed safe washing and haven’t let anyone they don’t trust touch their paint.

They’re all daily drivers too, not garage queens. I took these shots after a simple wash, these have not been polished in years-

[dearchichi]

Originally Posted by AJ56

It’s difficult to say for sure without seeing in person but those seem like hard water spots. Use Puris D19 (mineral deposit remover) on them and they’ll be gone. If any etching remains, it will need to be polished out.

With mineral deposits, they can start to etch into the clearcoat if left long enough but 7-8 days won’t be an issue. Rain never causes these, it’s most likely where you’re parking.

Thanks Anish for the prompt and detailed response. There's a lot to unpack and learn from it, but I'm for the time being restricting this post to the removal of the spots pictured earlier.

1. Is there a way for me to confirm if these spots are due to mud after a rainy drive (that somehow persisted even after a contact wash a few days later) or hard water spots (resulting from splashes while neighbouring cars are washed two feet away )?

2. Purus D19 is unavailable on PCC or Amazon. Do you have an alternate recommendation or a link from another trusted vendor?

3. You've elsewhere recommend an APC like Carpro MultiX. Do you suggest I get this?

4. I'd soon have a maintanence shampoo (Koch Chemie GSF), a strip shampoo (CarPro Reset), a mineral remover (Puris D19 or equivalent) and an APC. Can you explain how and in what order I'd need to use these (if at all) for (a) removal of the aforementioned spotting (b) strip washes about once a month or so (c) weekly maintenance washes?

5. I assume 4(a) and 4(b) require contact washes. Does 4(c) too require the same?

6. I'll be using PCC Chenille Microfiber Wash Mitt and PCC Edgeless Microfiber Ultra Plush 550gsm, 40X40cm for washing and CarPro Boa Microfiber 500gsm for drying (as per your recommendation elsewhere; I've a 600W leaf blower that takes too long to use). Please correct as needed.

Once again, thank you for taking the time to help me resolve this issue. Once I understand how to get clean panels post-wash, I'll look into protecting them through sealants and waxes.