[DrViz_26]

Originally Posted by AJ56

1) See my post above this, have mentioned some products including snow foams. Also eliminate the Joapsu as it scratches the paint with dry abrasion. Use a leaf blower instead as an air duster.

2) Without knowing your budget I cannot say as it’s a very wide range.

3) Two towel method of cleaning with 25% IPA.

4) Check the bottles expiry date and move on from Turtle, much better brands are available in the industry. Try Koch Chemie, Capro, Rupes, Gyeon, Menzerna, etc.

5) Any specific need? There are dozens of products to pick from aimed at different surfaces on a car.

6) Yes much easier.

Thank you so much for your reply.

As I mentioned - redirecting the PPF budget to invest in detailing products. So suffice to say - a lakh.

Consider me a clean slate. The shop I bought from is happy to take back all cleaning products as it’s barely used.


Need:

1) Ditching the Jopasu like you mentioned- kindly advise a good brand for a leaf blower.

2) Best shampoo for black cars - Saw this brand soft99 - is it any good.

3) Good pressure washer.

4) Glass cleaner - also saw this glaco from soft99. Is it any good ?

5) Should I be investing in a buffing machine, as I tried waxing by hand but it leaves patches and makes the Napoli black look dull.

Any other brands and a recommended regime is welcome.


PS : Should I ceramic coat first ? And then maintain with all the products ? Open to that option too.

[neo_the_one]

This is my first post on team-bhp and i apologize if i make mistake in posting. Administrator please delete the post if any mistake is there in the post.

1) Ditching the Jopasu like you mentioned- kindly advise a good brand for a leaf blower:
For blower i will advice either go for dewalt( Costly ) or black&decker(cheap compared to dewalt although same performance). Personally i also initially bought a corded blower for car drying however it was a task to get the wire extension to my car. Therefor i bought a cordless dewalt blower (big dent to pocket) . it has a very good flowrate and can be used for blowing dust,drying car and helps in removing water from washed mats. my recommendation will be a corless one.
2) Best shampoo for black cars - Saw this brand soft99 - is it any good.: I will advise buy 2 shampoos.
1st Shampoo
this would be meguiars nxt gen car shampoo. it has a darkening effect on dark vehicles( i owe a phantom brown color car ) and the gloss is also great. i also have tried proklear shampoo but the gloss was nothing compared to meguiars. this will be your go to shampoo for regular washes.
2nd shampoo: Carpro Descale
This is a shampoo that will rip all the lsp(waxes, sealants except ceramic coating) from your vehicle. This will deeply clean your car paint. use it once in 1.5/2/3 months as per your convenience.
Moreover i would also get a drying aid/spray wax (i use meguiars quick wax). Simply after washing the car, with water droplets still on car ,spray the drying agent and wipe with a drying towel. Use another tower to buff( hardly 2 wipes to & fro are needed to buff ). This way you are drying the car as well as giving protection (this spray wax will last for 2 washes or 2 weeks easily).Moreover this spray wax can be used on everything except tyres and upholstery ( can be used on platics,glass,paint,chrome,metal etc). Last but not the least get a good lamp wool wash mitt (i use chemical guys lambs wool wash mitt and it cleans dust and grime even in corners of quarter window panels of passenger doors)
3) Good pressure washer : karcher has a good lineup of pressure washers. if your budget allows get k4 premium.
4) Glass cleaner - also saw this glaco from soft99. Is it any good ? : get any cheap glass cleaner like meguiar but a good lint free towel. The secret to properly clean a glass largly depends on cloth you use to wipe it. moreover The spray wax can be used on glasses as it will provide beading effect and will easily stay on glass for 1 month ( however maximun 2 weeks/2 washes on paint)

[neo_the_one]

5) Should I be investing in a buffing machine, as I tried waxing by hand but it leaves patches and makes the Napoli black look dull : Which wax you are using. If the residue is there , then i think you are letting it dry for a longer period. Moreover get a hand sanding block( 3 inch circular shape available on amazon) and buy a polishing pad(Black color polishing pad 3/3.5 inch any brand like chemical guys, mashine,menzerna,carpro etc) for that. This hack will easily allow you to spread the wax. Moreover since you are using spray wax at the time of drying. no additional wax is required. however if you want ,for additional protection you can use sonax brilliant shine detailer after spray wax but this will be a overkill.

[sumeetchawla]

Originally Posted by AJ56

PPF is definitely not better, quite the opposite in fact but that’s another discussion. Yes it will yellow and this shows the most on light colours like white and silver.

This is what I am afraid of as well. Also the fact that they will open the car up to apply PPF and then re-install the components. Like door handles, rails etc. I really don't think anything can replace a factory fitted finish. For an older car, it still might be okay, but am not comfortable for a brand new car

Originally Posted by AJ56

Good brands for pro coatings- Capro, Gyeon, SystemX, Modesta, Optimum, Feynlab, etc.

Thank you so much. I think I will go ahead and get the coating done, specially cause of UV protection as my car has an open parking.

Is that CarPro or Capro is a separate brand? (I couldn't find capro though).

I actually have a vendor whom I spoke to regarding Ceramic and they are the official partners of Carpro as well!

These are the details they shared if anyone else is also interested.

[AJ56]

Originally Posted by DrViz_26

Thank you so much for your reply.

As I mentioned - redirecting the PPF budget to invest in detailing products. So suffice to say - a lakh.

Need:

1) Ditching the Jopasu like you mentioned- kindly advise a good brand for a leaf blower.

2) Best shampoo for black cars - Saw this brand soft99 - is it any good.

3) Good pressure washer.

4) Glass cleaner - also saw this glaco from soft99. Is it any good ?

5) Should I be investing in a buffing machine, as I tried waxing by hand but it leaves patches and makes the Napoli black look dull.

Any other brands and a recommended regime is welcome.


PS : Should I ceramic coat first ? And then maintain with all the products ? Open to that option too.

Happy to Help:

Yes put a coating on the car to make cleaning and drying much easier. As budget is limited and you plan to invest in the products + machines to learn to do it yourself, don’t pay a shop to do it. Follow all the steps and finish with something like CarPro CQuarz UK 3.0 or Gyeon Cancoat.

There’s no single correct maintenance wash frequency as multiple factors influence how quickly a car gets dirty but roughly I follow this:

Air blower/compressor to dry dust in between washes, can be everyday as it takes only a few seconds.

Pressure washer used thoroughly on every surface followed by leaf blower to dry, here your towels are only needed for glass surfaces. Takes 10-15 mins

Every week-10 days I’ll do a full contact foam wash with noodle type microfibre mitts, water - foam - water - air and I’ll also use some wheel cleaner/APC (all purpose cleaner) on my wheels and tyres and use a tyre dressing like Carpro PERL. Here you can optionally detail the engine bay as well, and wipe the inside of your glasses (they get film buildup over time even on the inside), use two towels and 25% IPA solution.

Interior I’ll get away with just compressed air on my floor mats most of the time as I’m the only one in my car most days. Every few months I’ll do a deep clean with a thorough vacuum + leather cleaner followed by conditioner and some APC on the plastics followed by Carpro PERL on the black plastics.

Paint decon with mineral remover + tar/ferrous remover as per requirement. Clay once every few years if the paint feels rough due to bonded contamination but then you have to polish and reapply your protection. If you dry thoroughly you’ll never need mineral deposit remover though.

Special mention: bird poo + tree sap - if you see this anywhere on the paint run and immediately remove it with the pressure washer irrespective of when you washed last. They will stain your paintwork in a very short period (few hours), if coated it’ll still stain, albeit over the coating.

Leave it for more than a few days and it can penetrate the entire paint system even with a coating, which sometimes even heavy machine polishing cannot fully fix. Will add, this is a bigger issue on softer paints than harder ones (think Jap + Koreans)

1) I’ve used the Black and Decker GW 3030 3000W leaf blower for years now, very reliable and a top tier machine. Pushes water like no tomorrow, you will need good earmuffs though. If you want cordless, Makita also makes decent ones but they’re expensive and not as powerful.

2) Shampoo: Soft99 is known for Fuso coat, their durable paint sealant no idea about their shampoos. With a foam cannon, you want a foaming shampoo not just a standard one intended for bucket use, ensure they are pH-neutral. See the ones I’ve listed in my earlier post.

The car colour makes no difference as we are working over the clearcoat, the topmost paint layer that is completely transparent. Any product claiming to work better on certain colours is just marketing.

3) Pressure washer: this topic alone can go for many pages as there are dozens of variables when deciding on a good machine as it can really make or break the washing experience. In short, look for something that pushes 150 bar @ at least 10-12 l/min (3 GPM) of flow rate. Hook it up to a small tank and a high flow valve with a braided water pipe and an inlet filter (150 micron).

If you want to know my setup I’ll be reviewing some of my machines in the pressure washer thread shortly as I’m getting too many direct messages, easier to paste once publicly I feel than typing every time.

One thing I’ll say from experience, never skip on the larger machine due to cost in this area as you’ll most likely end up upgrading prematurely in such cases. Keep well away from the plastic crap sold by Karcher and Bosch in their domestic lineups. Those machines don’t even last 100 hours and have very short continuous runtimes with overheating being a constant headache and they have very low flow rates.

Also keep in mind flow rate is more important than pressure, we anyway can’t go above 150 bar as it can start to damage paint and it’s not needed, but with flow rate the more the better. You get shaving cream thick foam and you can clean in half the time with a machine pushing a lot of water per minute.

Don’t get any machine with a hose under 10m, 15m is ideal. Swivel is also nice to have along with a short gun, also get a machine that comes with a trolley and large wheels.

4) Glass cleaner: all you need is 25% IPA mixed with RO water and two short fibre towels and a bright flashlight (to check) and you’ll have perfect glass everytime.

5) Yes absolutely, once you use one you’ll never put it down. It’s a like a superpower being able to correct even deeper defects in your paint and every exterior (and interior) glossy surface. I normally try and mention a range of products/brands but after using dozens of different machines over the years I’ll say just get the Shinemate EP820 rotary eyes closed. It’s E53 performance for Camry money.

1200W with soft start and a variable speed trigger, perfect ergonomics and lightweight. Also comes with a 5” backing plate. Shinemate also makes excellent foam pads although you can use whatever you prefer, Lake Country is the best in the foam pad business for reference.

Look into Menzerna and Rupes for the best compounds and finishing polishes respectively, again this is another topic I can write a lot about as there are too many variables.

6) You didn’t ask but I’ll add a good air compressor to the core list, it’s a vital tool that helps so much I’d say it’s the second most important tool after the washer, from getting water and dust out of tight areas to even dry dusting to pneumatic tools it has infinite application and once you use one you’ll never be found without one.

They’re also great for blowing out all your air filters, from the engine and cabin air filter in the car to your air purifiers and even air conditioners at home.

7) Vacuum: I’ll leave this for now otherwise we’ll be way over budget. The compressor can actually do quite a bit of the vac work in the short run.

Budget and breakup: I’ll keep products under 10k as initially you want to buy the smallest sizes just to experiment with what you like best, don’t buy 5L cans as it’ll be a waste.

Pressure washer: we’ll limit to 50-60k as under 1L we cannot consider Kranzle/AR/Bertolini machines/pumps. In fact, given how well built some of the Chinese machines I’ve been using are, even if you were willing to spend I’d say avoid as I find those overpriced to be honest.

Look at 3000w/4HP machines which match the specs mentioned above, only thing with Chinese machines is, one cannot trust the flow rate numbers as they are always inflated, look at how easy spares are as well, you don’t want to be stuck 1 year down the line if spares are hard to access.

You can even have your own washer made as it’s nothing more than a hose, pump and motor wired to an auto cut with all of this bolted onto a trolley with wheels.

Compressor: again big names like Elgi and Atlas Copco are out as they will blow the budget but Chinese ones are reasonably good quality and will last a few years without issue. Look for Oilfree and noiseless designs, anything around 2.5-3HP with a 60-100L tank will be enough. Keep 25-30k aside for this.

Note: I’m suggesting smaller compressors as it’s enough for domestic application. Do not buy any compressor with oil as you will not get class 0 air, no matter what the mfg claims or how many filters they put. The last thing you want are invisible microscopic oil droplets all over your paint/filters. It’s a non issue with oil free machines as there is no oil to begin with.

Originally Posted by sumeetchawla

This is what I am afraid of as well. Also the fact that they will open the car up to apply PPF and then re-install the components. Like door handles, rails etc. I really don't think anything can replace a factory fitted finish. For an older car, it still might be okay, but am not comfortable for a brand new car

Is that CarPro or Capro is a separate brand? (I couldn't find capro though).

Yes not only that, but it also doesn’t stop dents (which almost always accompany deeper scratches), introduces a lot of optical distortion and orange peel + texture in the surface reducing clarity, is extremely soft so scratches even easier than bare paint (which is super soft to begin with), you’re always running back to the installer as edges lifting up/peeling + phantom air bubbles are very common issue with time (across brands).

Plus you still need to put a coating over it for long term water beading and ease of maintenance and if film is removed/replaced at any point, the coating is automatically lost as well.

My bad, typo. It’s CarPro, and CQuartz Pro and Finest are both great options.

It’s weird that the installer only offers side glass and sunroof coating on the highest possible option, what if one wants CQ Pro + all glass surfaces coated? Once you drive a car with coated glasses you’ll never go back as wiper use is nearly eliminated during rains.

Ensure they coat the ORVM’s as well with FlyBy30 as it’s not mentioned anywhere but it’s critical to the full experience in case you’re going with glass.

Also strange pricing, larger cars don’t take up 70% more product/effort/time than smaller ones. 20-22% at best.

[sumeetchawla]

Originally Posted by AJ56

As budget is limited and you plan to invest in the products + machines to learn to do it yourself, don’t pay a shop to do it. Follow all the steps and finish with something like CarPro CQuarz UK 3.0 or Gyeon Cancoat.

Even my budget is limited. I think over all products (as a beginner) costed me somewhere around 15-18k. Still need to get the better ones which will cost a bit more for sure. But good enough as a beginner.

That is a nice idea. I thought about it after looking at the price, 1/5th of what the dealer is charging. I do all the other decontamination cleaning myself anyway. But still I think as a beginner, I will prefer a dealer to start with.

Originally Posted by AJ56

It’s weird that the installer only offers side glass and sunroof coating on the highest possible option, what if one wants CQ Pro + all glass surfaces coated? Once you drive a car with coated glasses you’ll never go back as wiper use is nearly eliminated during rains.

Ensure they coat the ORVM’s as well with FlyBy30 as it’s not mentioned anywhere but it’s critical to the full experience in case you’re going with glass.

Also strange pricing, larger cars don’t take up 70% more product/effort/time than smaller ones. 20-22% at best.

Totally agree with your thoughts about PPF. I will talk to the installer and see if I can get a better deal.

But to be honest, I have been really fascinated by SOFT99 Ultra Glaco and Glaco compound. Read about it in this forum many times and saw so many videos. Seems like it is possible to do it DIY and the result is pretty awesome. Also, available on Amazon at a reasonable price too. Didn't find it being offered by anyone in Kolkata.

Do you think FlyBy30 is better than Glaco? Well, if I will be getting a CarPro ceramic coating, getting a FlyBy30 from the installer will make more sense as they can cure it using IR blasters.

[AJ56]

Originally Posted by sumeetchawla

But to be honest, I have been really fascinated by SOFT99 Ultra Glaco and Glaco compound. Read about it in this forum many times and saw so many videos. Seems like it is possible to do it DIY and the result is pretty awesome.

Do you think FlyBy30 is better than Glaco? Well, if I will be getting a CarPro ceramic coating, getting a FlyBy30 from the installer will make more sense as they can cure it using IR blasters.

A silica based ceramic coating intended for glass will be more durable than any polymer based coating, be it Glaco or RainX. With the latter the claimed durability is in months, whereas with ceramic based glass coatings, it’s in years.

Now I’ve not personally tested either and neither is Carpro forthcoming about FlyBy’s exact chemistry, best to ask your installer.

Silica based coatings are as easy to apply on glass as RainX or Glaco, no increased difficulty. Prep is everything so ensure you clean, clay and polish (if needed) to deep clean the glass surface before application (whatever you’re applying).

In the words of the great Yvan Lacroix, IR lamps are just slick marketing, heat is not required to cure a ceramic coating, its humidity. I will agree with him here, what determines curing and flash times with ceramics is the ambient humidity, not heat.

(Having said that, I’m aware a certain minimum temp is needed to apply a coating successfully, under 2 degrees Celsius and you’ll have issues but no one’s really working in the open in winter anyway.)

[DrViz_26]

Originally Posted by AJ56

Happy to Help:

Yes put a coating on the car to make cleaning and drying much easier. As budget is limited and you plan to invest in the products + machines to learn to do it yourself, don’t pay a shop to do it. Follow all the steps and finish with something like CarPro CQuarz UK 3.0 or Gyeon Cancoat.

Thank you so much AJ56 for your detailed reply.

Took your advice and decided to first Ceramic coat my car with CarPro - bumped up and went for the Finest Reserve.

Although Coimbatore doesn’t have an authorised dealer - they were able to refer me to an applicator.

And he seems quite knowledgeable on the process. Even though the car is only a couple of weeks old, it’s difficult to keep it pristine. Lot’s of swirl marks and few scratches. Urgh.

Sharing few pictures from the applicator station. Planning to do a more detailed review soon !

Most of the recommended products and equipment have been ordered and awaiting delivery.

[Bullfrog]

Hey Folks,

Any inputs on good detailers in and around Yelahanka/Shakarnagar/Jakkur in Bangalore ? Need exterior and interior cleaned of my Mahindra Marazzo.

Thanks

[ghodlur]

Originally Posted by Bullfrog

Hey Folks,

Any inputs on good detailers in and around Yelahanka/Shakarnagar/Jakkur in Bangalore ? Need exterior and interior cleaned of my Mahindra Marazzo.

Thanks

You can try Triah Detailing in Kodeginahalli. I have got the regular Ceramic coating top ups done by them. (they were earlier the Ultimate Detailerz franchisee).

https://triahdetailing.com/

https://maps.app.goo.gl/UMyuDSBzoTWicYdw8

There's a Detailing Mafia recently opened on the Hennur Bagalur road incase you want to have a look at.

https://maps.app.goo.gl/2CN4LQZ2ubyDu4PG8

[dearchichi]

Hello all.

I had my Innova HyCross VX (in Blackish Ageha) delivered on the 17th of this month.

I'm currently going through the posts on this and other threads that deal with washing, detailing and PPF. There's a wealth of information in these, and I'm finding my way around a new domain.

I find the comments by Anish (AJ56) extraordinarily pertinent, informed and well written.

I have a few quick questions I'm hoping I could get answers for.

1. Anish argue pretty persuasively against the application of PPF. Do these (yellowing, bonding to the paint after 4 years, orange-peel appearance, temporary self-healing property) apply to the TPU version of the 3M PPF rolls too? I've read elsewhere on team-bhp that some of these shortcomings are mitigated by the TPU version of the PPF.

My dealership is quoting Rs. 2L for a full job, which I find too expensive. People in Delhi have got it done for Rs. 90K (Paintguard Professional 180-185 micron TPU material with self healing; 5 year warranty). I know you recommend not getting this done at dealerships since it would just be an add-on service for them. But, I worry about not achieving close to factory-fit post the application.

The car would be driven 90% of the time on highways, and hence would be exposed to rock chips, sand, dust, rains etc. Do you suggest that I go for the PPF here or shall I get a ceramic coating instead? How about a partial PPF (applied to the bonnet, fenders etc.)?

2. I have bought the following, perhaps in haste. Please let me know if any of them don't deserve to be used (due to oil residues, corrosives etc ):

3M Car Glass Cleaner
3M Car Dashboard Dresser
3M Car wash Shampoo
3M Auto Specialty Tyre Dresser
3M Car wash Shampoo

3. I have bought 340 GSM and 500 GSM microfiber cloths for washing and drying respectively. Are these values okay , or should I upgrade the GSM values?

4. Would you recommend this wash mitt (I've already bought them): https://amzn.in/d/8V9wUgF?

5. Could you please recommend good pressure washers and blowers that are handy in apartment basements (i.e. cordless) and are reliable? You recommend this for a blower, but I wanted to know your latest suggestions: https://amzn.in/d/a4y5FGG. If possible, please also recommend shampoos/foam solutions and foam guns.

6. Following up from the above, is there a way I could clean my car without using a pressure washer while still maintaining the touchless rinsing and foam application it enables? I live in an apartment, and using a pressure washer may not be feasible in the basement (it may make things messy in my parking bay, and adjacent cars would be affected). There are low-powered foam applicators but I'm unsure how practical they are. Is there a simpler effective method of washing that just uses buckets and cloth with techniques that account for good lubrication?

Many thanks for taking the time to answer these questions.

[AJ56]

Originally Posted by dearchichi

Hello all.

I had my Innova HyCross VX (in Blackish Ageha) delivered on the 17th of this month.

I'm currently going through the posts on this and other threads that deal with washing, detailing and PPF. There's a wealth of information in these, and I'm finding my way around a new domain.

I have a few quick questions I'm hoping I could get answers for.

Many thanks for taking the time to answer these questions.

Hi Shashi,

Appreciate the kind words, happy to help!

1) Yes they very much apply to 3M and every other TPU roll, I doubt any serious brand even offers the older TPH type anymore. 3M is nowhere in the high end PPF space, in fact will suggest its best avoided due to how quickly it yellows (faster than other brands).

Better brands than 3M will include Expel, Llumar, Stek, Optimum. I base my criticisms on testing the best available in the market, Expel, Optimum and a few others. 2L is too much for 3M but not for Expel as the roll (200 sq.ft.) itself is 1L, add in the other costs and it’s the right price.

Factory fit will be lost no matter who takes apart your panels, specially at the dealer given their lack of quality and technical skills, which I’ve personally witnessed at dealers across different brands and across cities. 99% of dealers don’t even use a torque wrench when tightening up wheel lug nuts, let alone more complicated tasks.

Also, keep in mind disassembly will be carried out twice, once for installation and again after a few years for removal, by which time the risk of breaking and bending plastic clips is even higher as the plastics are older and more brittle.

Sand, dust and rain will not damage paint one bit and putting a ceramic coating over it will aid in cleanup greatly when you do wash after driving. The damage is only done when improperly cleaning these abrasive contaminants with a towel (always use a pipe/pressure washer).

Coming to rock chips, PPF is useless against larger ones as it cannot stop the fine dents left behind even if it saves the paint. Also, PPF cannot be sanded or touched up like coated paint can, this eliminates the possibility of any repair and you’re forced to change the entire panel at more cost than a high quality re paint of the same.

Also, given how soft film is compared to even uncoated paint. Once the self heal effect is lost, it swirls very easily, making maintenance a bigger headache as you have to take even more precaution when washing to avoid surface marring. Again, this I’ve tested over many years on dozens of different films, always the same result.

Never do partial PPF, the optical distortion and yellowing will be very apparent where the paint and PPF covered sections meet, fender-bonnet and fender-front bumper for eg.

2) 3M glass cleaner is quite useless I find, just use the two towel method with 25% IPA (isopropyl alcohol), use RO water to dilute. You can buy lab grade IPA from Amazon.

Never use the 3M dash dresser (red bottle), it’s silicone based and will leave heavy oil residue on the inside of your glasses resulting in significant haze.

The rest of the stuff is fine, although will suggest better brands than 3M. Carpro PERL and Koch Chemie Motorplast are excellent tyre and trim dressings as is Meguiar’s hyper dressing which is water based.

3) For towels, it’s less about the gsm which is just the weight in grams per square inch and more about the fibre quality and the polyester/polyamide ratio (higher polyamide % is plusher and higher quality). Look for edgeless 70:30 blend towels with Korean fibres. TRC (the rag company) makes some top tier towels.

4) ShineX is just a marketing company importing low quality Chinese products, putting a label on it and passing it on. If you’ve already ordered, use for a bit but check for continued plushness, in my testing ShineX towels and mitts turn hard after just a few uses and then will start to scratch.
Also remove any tags as they are hard and can scratch.

5) Sure, there are more powerful cordless ones available. I don’t use cordless machines so any suggestions will be based on user reviews I’ve got from other people, also check out YouTube vids for reviews of the same.

6) You can eliminate the pressure washer use at the end by using a rinseless wash over a traditional foam shampoo, but you cannot start without a pressure washer or garden pipe at the very least as a spray and wipe with anything on a dirty car will leave marring behind.

That’s just how soft paint is, using pump action sprayers does little as you’re essentially putting soap over heavy dust and debris, and without any means of rinsing this off, going straight to a towel (no matter how plush), will again scratch.

Using a cordless machine will take up at most 1.5-2 buckets, no more than what other cars’ cleaners are using. Also, in between washes you can get away with just the air blower as basement parked cars will have loose dust which can be removed for the most part without the need for water. If you park in the open and have tree sap and bird poo then you need water + air.

Blowers:

https://www.industrybuying.com/cordl...-8Qn5jSS5G-ttl

https://www.industrybuying.com/cordl....BLO.83380367/

Washer:

https://www.industrybuying.com/press...4U1tVII_LzVzdM


Best Regards,
Anish Jain.

[Mr_Slowly]

Greetings BHPians,

This is my first post in the thread.
Looking for a car washing shampoo with good foaming capability with pressure washer for weekly car washes. Considering the Koch Chemie GSF as its pH - neutral and I believe gentle on the paint. Any other suggestions are most welcome.

Also, which website would be recommended for purchasing Koch Chemie or CarPro products(in case I plan to purchase some in future)?

Also one more question, Should I also consider purchasing a higher pH shampoo for that extra bite when the car is relatively dirtier for the once in 15 days contact wash?

Thanks!

[AJ56]

Since many folks keep asking about the water rinse-air dry method of touchless cleaning a coated car, here’s a quick clip showing the same in action. Note: if not a ceramic coating, at the least apply a spray sealant over the paint + glass to greatly improve drying time.

I’ve done just half a bonnet here, but it takes me under 10 mins to do the entire car. 90-95% of contamination can be removed without contact on a hydrophobic surface-

https://youtu.be/rgpVZrfYAKM?si=bg3Ju57_fojEqkZi

[AJ56]

Originally Posted by Mr_Slowly

Greetings BHPians,

This is my first post in the thread.
Considering the Koch Chemie GSF as its pH - neutral and I believe gentle on the paint. Any other suggestions are most welcome.

Also, which website would be recommended for purchasing Koch Chemie or CarPro products?

Also one more question, Should I also consider purchasing a higher pH shampoo for that extra bite when the car is relatively dirtier for the once in 15 days contact wash?

Thanks!

Welcome to the forum Mr_Slowly!

GSF is a top tier foam shampoo that works great for maintenance washes. Chemical Guys Honeydew Snow Foam is another good one. Both are pH-neutral.

Yes you want shampoos that address both ends of the pH scale, for dirt and grime (road film) you want a high pH foam shampoo/pre treat like Carpro Lift or Carpro Reset.

For attacking mineral deposits that lead to hard water spots you want something that’s on the opposite end of the pH-scale (more acidic) like Carpro Descale, again used in your foam cannon after dilution. Also, 15 days is too frequent, more like once in a few months for cars that are washed frequently.

For buying Carpro use ultimatedetailerz.com as he’s the authorised importer for Carpro in India. Otherwise you can also buy from planetcarcare.com or greenzcarcare.com. I’ve bought repeatedly from all 3 over the years and they’re genuine.

Mods: kindly merge my last two posts together.