[SunnyBoi]

Did not get a chance to use M16 but put in a coat of Mothers Carnauba. Depth is back, hallelujah!

Camera did not focus well:



When it did - Look at the strip of reflection



Hatch

Originally Posted by Parthasarathig

Wierd really ive never seen stock alloys doing that - but this is aftermarket right?

Aftermarket - HRS. Weird but true :S

Originally Posted by Parthasarathig

Btw have you given Superdegreaser a try? It works very good on my bikes alloys - but will it work on brake dust? I dont have alloys on my car, so cant test that.

I want to but havent got a chance to meet with Nirmal since some time :(

Originally Posted by nirmaljusdoit

Amazing gloss from a light color !! Should give this SRP a try, it must surely work wonders on a dark color ! (filler heavy i guess)

It is filler heavy. This should give a fair idea, before and after

[blackasta]

Originally Posted by dreadknight5

I have a black xuv (sep 2012) and it doesn't seem to have the shine anymore. Its barely exposed to the sun ( 30 mins each day while driving to work) and i get it cleaned each day by my apartment watchman. I tried using formula 1 wax and it hasn't yielded anything positive. I can't seem to find Mequiar's products in any shop in hyderabad either.

The above highlighted items are a perfect recipe for disaster.

If you can't devote time every day - try to clean the car once weekly yourself. Details are present in this thread. If you don't want to do it yourself, at least supervise it to ensure it is done the right way. Either way, once a week water wash is enough. Use the two bucket method and a good quality microfiber / wash mitt / sponge - NOT the stuff they sell at stop signals.

Read up about the wash-clay-paint correct/compound-polish/paint clean-sealant-wax steps. If the entire car care regime is too much for you, at least invest in a good quality ph neutral shampoo and a good quality sealant. Again, this thread is a treasure trove of details.

For workday maintenance, a jopasu/California duster is good enough for dry days, while ONR or UWW can be your best friend for taking out light dirt.

99.9% of he 'car polish' or 'teflon' guys I have met are downright ignorant of anything remotely related to paint protection and maintenance. The best way is to DIY, or learn about the correct method and supervise while someone else does it for you. There are a few knowledgeable people who actually know what they are doing, but they are few and far between.

You can buy Meguiar's products from snapdeal if you like.

[Parthasarathig]

Originally Posted by nirmaljusdoit

Amazing gloss from a light color !! Should give this SRP a try, it must surely work wonders on a dark color ! (filler heavy i guess)

Originally Posted by SunnyBoi

It is filler heavy. This should give a fair idea, before and after

I love the rear shot. So, isnt SRP a glaze basically? Just like blackhole ? I think Autobalm should also be a good alternative for filling even though it is not exactly called a glaze.

Filler heavy stuff is not to my liking though, which is exactly why I despise some brand polish treatments people seem to opt for. If you have achieved true correction, you wil basically have no need for fillers. A glaze will give you that wet finish yes unless you have an LSP that gives you that dripping wet look.

In case of filler heavy polishes, doing a wipedown right before the lsp or after a few washes and you are back to square one. There goes your paint sealant treatment. The swirls just keep adding up over time making the situation only worse as fillers keep concealing a bad detail job over and over again.

I do know the products that you use Sunnyboi, so theres no doubt about the correction

About superdegreaser, even I have to pick up some more as my stock got over. I'll probably get it next month as I have ordered some more stuff also. Lets see if we can meet up then and perhaps get to see your beauty in the flesh :clap and also get some hands on with the SRP if its ok with you.

[aditya_rao]

@nirmal, do you stock meguiars APC/Hyper dresser in smaller quantities and can you ship it to other cities?

[Pedaltothefloor]

Originally Posted by Parthasarathig

I love the rear shot. So, isnt SRP a glaze basically? Just like blackhole ? I think Autobalm should also be a good alternative for filling even though it is not exactly called a glaze.

SRP is an AIO that has both abrasive and chemical paint cleaners, it has a very good amount of fillers and an Acrylic sealant. It is an average quality cleaner, good filler and useless protector. If topped immediately with a good sealant, the finish will stay till the LSP wears off.

Auto Balm on the other hand is a sealant with mild cleaners and some fillers. But it is quite unique as a sealant as it is anti corrosive. It's ability to protect stone chip sites and to fill and protect minor imperfections like swirls, scratches, stone chips is phenomenal.

In an idea world, fully machine corrected paint needs no polishes or AIOs with fillers. However, it is almost impossible to achieve that state in India where people will inadvertently cause deep scratches in parking, kids playing will draw abstract art and two wheelers/three wheelers will cut you from all sides. My point is, once the scratch or stone chip eats way your clear coat; you can't correct it. You can either paint it or use a good filler heavy product. Some people add clear coat as well, which I hate. This is the same reason that I am against coatings in Indian conditions. We need to prioritize protection over looks. Using a good anti corrosive protector like Auto Balm and then topping it up with a good Carnuba like Hydra Wax is a much better option. You get both the protection and the looks. Plus you can top up anytime, unlike a coating.

[dreadknight5]

Originally Posted by blackasta

The above highlighted items are a perfect recipe for disaster.

If you can't devote time every day - try to clean the car once weekly yourself. Details are present in this thread. If you don't want to do it yourself, at least supervise it to ensure it is done the right way. Either way, once a week water wash is enough. Use the two bucket method and a good quality microfiber / wash mitt / sponge - NOT the stuff they sell at stop signals.

Read up about the wash-clay-paint correct/compound-polish/paint clean-sealant-wax steps. If the entire car care regime is too much for you, at least invest in a good quality ph neutral shampoo and a good quality sealant. Again, this thread is a treasure trove of details.

For workday maintenance, a jopasu/California duster is good enough for dry days, while ONR or UWW can be your best friend for taking out light dirt.

99.9% of he 'car polish' or 'teflon' guys I have met are downright ignorant of anything remotely related to paint protection and maintenance. The best way is to DIY, or learn about the correct method and supervise while someone else does it for you. There are a few knowledgeable people who actually know what they are doing, but they are few and far between.

You can buy Meguiar's products from snapdeal if you like.

thanks for the response. Yeah I guess, i will need to fine tune the cleaning process. I tried searching for clay, just don't seem to find it online .... or I Fail in google search :(

Yeah I got it polished and waxed by a 3m person few months ago. Going by the posts, I get the feeling that I got cheated in the deal.

I have ordered meguairs from autofresh , didn't see the clay there. I will try in snapdeal or other places for it.

[blackasta]

Originally Posted by dreadknight5

thanks for the response. Yeah I guess, i will need to fine tune the cleaning process. I tried searching for clay, just don't seem to find it online .... or I Fail in google search :(

Yeah I got it polished and waxed by a 3m person few months ago. Going by the posts, I get the feeling that I got cheated in the deal.

I have ordered meguairs from autofresh , didn't see the clay there. I will try in snapdeal or other places for it.

Don't know how the quality is, but clay is available on autofresh.

http://www.autofresh.in/exterior-car...20-23295733777

[mkh]

Originally Posted by dreadknight5

I have a black xuv (sep 2012) and it doesn't seem to have the shine anymore. Its barely exposed to the sun ( 30 mins each day while driving to work) and i get it cleaned each day by my apartment watchman. I tried using formula 1 wax and it hasn't yielded anything positive. I can't seem to find Mequiar's products in any shop in hyderabad either.

http://www.carware.in/ stocks them and they are hyderabad based. Make sure you buy from geniune re-sellers and not anyone claiming to be one. Meguiars india site also has a list
http://www.meguiars.co.in/stockist-l...mageField.y=16
This is the right place to check where to buy as you will get proper products with support.

Disclaimer: I am in no way associated with any of the above listed entities.

[Parthasarathig]

Originally Posted by Pedaltothefloor

SRP is an AIO that has both abrasive and chemical paint cleaners, it has a very good amount of fillers and an Acrylic sealant. It is an average quality cleaner, good filler and useless protector. If topped immediately with a good sealant, the finish will stay till the LSP wears off.

Auto Balm on the other hand is a sealant with mild cleaners and some fillers. But it is quite unique as a sealant as it is anti corrosive. It's ability to protect stone chip sites and to fill and protect minor imperfections like swirls, scratches, stone chips is phenomenal.

.

. Ive heard good things about Auto Balm btw and in general about most Bilt Hamber products. I think mkh is selling their clay and some more stuff if im not wrong.

SRP new formula seems to be good as they keep discussing about On the british forum. But, fillers items not my preference. And especially AIOs not my choice of product - better to leave every step to dedicated products - as I dont have any restrictions with my car. Unless, Im doing professional details, AIO may come into picture then.

Ive Auto Balm on my purchase list for sometime once the current protection wears out mainly to cover up four big keyed scratches on my hood - atleast to protect from rust, as you've mentioned.

Originally Posted by mkh

. Make sure you buy from geniune re-sellers and not anyone claiming to be one. ]
This is the right place to check where to buy as you will get proper products with support.

Disclaimer: I am in no way associated with any of the above listed entities.

Absolutely true. It is always safer to check the manufacturers website for the list of distributors and resellers, and then to buy stuff from the authorised people. Comes with peace of mind, no matter what happens, you always have some backup.

Individuals can claim anything, always better to check up on the manufacturer website or ask them directly via email. Its sometimes saddening to see individuals making tall claims and all. I prefer not to make any transaction with such folk.

I, personally, verify with the manufacturer before purchasing product from any individual/company. Plus the word of mouth from my friends, makes it twice more safer to buy from an establishment.

Its your money after all. Better be safe than sorry.

[lapis_lazuli]

Can someone explain why children modeling clay, available very cheap at stationery stores, would not serve the claying purpose? It is so cheap, we can buy each time we plan to "detail in detail" . I tried a mound, rasgullah size, on a small area on my punto, with ONR Quick detailer, and it does bring out stuff. Not ALL the miniscule tough tar spots though (pin head size), which I doubt even 4 figure bars would. That's beside the point, the original query is still in the first line of this post.

Have a nice brunch folks....

PS On second thoughts, even putty, used to seal window AC wooden frame cutouts and gaps, the 40INR a packet type. It has the same consistency as regular clay, when fresh, and gets hard with time (days really). but who cares, its 40INR anyways.

[NOS Power]

Originally Posted by lapis_lazuli

Can someone explain why children modeling clay, available very cheap at stationery stores, would not serve the claying purpose? It is so cheap, we can buy each time we plan to "detail in detail" . I tried a mound, rasgullah size, on a small area on my punto, with ONR Quick detailer, and it does bring out stuff. Not ALL the miniscule tough tar spots though (pin head size), which I doubt even 4 figure bars would. That's beside the point, the original query is still in the first line of this post.

Have a nice brunch folks....

PS On second thoughts, even putty, used to seal window AC wooden frame cutouts and gaps, the 40INR a packet type. It has the same consistency as regular clay, when fresh, and gets hard with time (days really). but who cares, its 40INR anyways.

Good thought. But have a few questions.

Did you experience any marring or the clay sticking onto the paint. Even dragging is not acceptable.

Post claying have you tried spraying water to see if the clayed area behaves like a waxed area, i.e. The water does not stay? This could mean residue.

[Parthasarathig]

Originally Posted by lapis_lazuli

Can someone explain why children modeling clay, available very cheap at stationery stores, would not serve the claying purpose? It is so cheap, we can buy each time we plan to "detail in detail" . I tried a mound, rasgullah size, on a small area on my punto, with ONR Quick detailer, and it does bring out stuff. Not ALL the miniscule tough tar spots though (pin head size), which I doubt even 4 figure bars would. That's beside the point, the original query is still in the first line of this post.

Have a nice brunch folks....

PS On second thoughts, even putty, used to seal window AC wooden frame cutouts and gaps, the 40INR a packet type. It has the same consistency as regular clay, when fresh, and gets hard with time (days really). but who cares, its 40INR anyways.

Hey nice idea there.

You can use it. Many have done it before. I guess most of the reason why car detailing clay costs more is because of the patents on using it on cars. US company Clay Magic holds the patent in the US and some other person in Japan holds it for the rest of the world. Their patents expire in 2015 - so possibly we can see the prices going down after that. although there are so many alternatives to clay bars out there which you can probably re use many times over and which will not marr the paint - something That is a common problem with clay bars.

Id advise using a car shampoo instead as your clay lube - it will be more thicker than the average QD and provide more lubricity. This would lessen the chances of marring.

In case you do get marring, you can use Ultimate Polish or other good polishes on the clayed areas to correct the marring.

Only question is to see if it will remove paint overspray like detailing clay bars do.

Disclaimer: Auto clay bars will still be my preference.

[SunnyBoi]

Tried some engine detailing using PERL. Looks nice!



Got all decals done and put on. Added another coat of Carnauba in the meanwhile.

[lapis_lazuli]

Originally Posted by NOS Power

Good thought. But have a few questions.

Did you experience any marring or the clay sticking onto the paint. Even dragging is not acceptable.

Post claying have you tried spraying water to see if the clayed area behaves like a waxed area, i.e. The water does not stay? This could mean residue.

No marring. But, the clay does fill-in the nail deep scratches. You need to remove it seperately (alcohol) or mask the scratches with tape before claying.

The surface does feel a bit oily after the first pass, but, a wipe with a little extra ONR lube removes the oily nature for sure. I will try it out again.

[Hulk]

Guys, please help me out with a problem.

Today, due to misjudgment, I got into a heavy mud slush. Got stuck, so had to get out, collect some bricks, put them under the tyres and finally got out. But in the process, the car got all dirty!

There was mud all over the car and even inside(because I once slipped in the mud outside). So yeah, pretty messed up.

I got back home after 2 hours or so and washed(with a garden hose), shampooed(Sonax) the whole car. Then I sprayed some quick detailer(ONR) on the hood and wiped it off with microfiber towel.

But still, I could see(at an angle), the marks where the mud splashes were before. And now I can't seem to lose them whatever I do.

They are mainly on the hood and black plastic trim on the hood.

How can I get rid of these spots? Help!

P.S: I own a tuscan wine (maroon) Punto.