[dr_anurag]

Originally Posted by 4x4addict

Loosen the screws, put some silicon sealant under the antenna base and re tighten it. This should keep the water out.

Originally Posted by condor

@dr_anurag: small addition to the above point by @4x4addict: fix /tighten the antenna when the sealant is still wet. Dries quite quickly.

You can use Anabond. M-Seal also has a similar product, should be available in most hardware stores.

The antenna has a single screw on the side which merely joins the antenna to the base. I could not loosen the base itself.

[anupmathur]

Originally Posted by dr_anurag

... I could not loosen the base itself.

This has to be loosened from inside the cabin after removing the false ceiling from the front portion.

[chandras1]

Gave my Scorpio SLE 2010 model for the 1st paid service today and the service advisor (Sireesh Auto) says that the front suspension link rod bush needs to be changed. I am really surprised as the vehicle has just done around 13000 kms or so mainly in the city. Can someone more knowlegeable throw more light on this ? Is this a part that gives away so easily or is it a QC issue or am I simply taken for a ride ?

[comfortablynumb]

Originally Posted by chandras1

Gave my Scorpio SLE 2010 model for the 1st paid service today and the service advisor (Sireesh Auto) says that the front suspension link rod bush needs to be changed. I am really surprised as the vehicle has just done around 13000 kms or so mainly in the city. Can someone more knowlegeable throw more light on this ? Is this a part that gives away so easily or is it a QC issue or am I simply taken for a ride ?

I don't think they should wear out so fast. Just before my Scorp's 1st paid service [at 20k kms], I used to hear a "clunk" noise when it went over a speed breaker or thru a pothole at slow speeds; not everytime, but once in a while. The technician tightened the link rod, and the noise went away. I asked him to check the condition of the bushes as the vehicle was on the ramp anyway, and he opined that they looked absolutely okay.

Also, not many folks on this thread have reported this issue. So, if it's possible for you to get a 2nd opinion from an independent garage, I'd suggest you get it before acting on the SA's advice.

Cheers,
Vikram

[chandras1]

Vikram,
Thanks, Btw, it was rear suspension link rod bush, a rubber part. As I have a long drive ahead didn't want to take a chance and gave go ahead for the work. Total bill 8000/. Around 1000 for this job. Based on my past experience with hyundai (santro) and maruti (baleno), this looked lot higher and never had any suspension related issues at all. However SA did claim that in the older crde models they used to change this every 5000 kms or so and in the mhawks, it's changed around 15000 kms and this bush part is now out of warranty as well.

I did shell out my hard earned money, but wasn't a happy customer when I walked out of their service center. Also getting serious doubts about their QC practices... :-(

[Styler]

Hi all,

So finally I leave for Trip to Kinnaur, Spiti, Lahaul, Manali on Friday the 17th June.
I have a Non CRDE Scorpio done about 82,000 kms in fine shape.

In the past few months, as a preventive maintainence I had got the front suspension done, replacing all bushes and ball joints, shockers. The 2 Crosses of the Shaft were also replaced.

I had also got all rubber hoses of the cooling system, turbo changed. All fuel pipes also got replaced.

Yesterday my local trusted mechaninc yesterday tightened all the nut bolts of the chassis, sideboards etc. A lot of them were loose.

My mechanic advised me that I should get the shaft (I suppose he means the Cross etc) greased. He advised that the trucks etc regularly get this done.
His view was that the shaft is running very dry at cross etc, and the vehicle will become smoother once the greasing is done. It is hardly a 10 min job and doesn't cost anything.

I have never got greasing of the shaft done before, is it advisable ?

Also I have an almost 3 year old Amaron 65 AH Battery right now. It seems to be working just fine in the summer of Delhi. I am just thinking if I should replace it before I go with a 80 AH battery.


Styler

[SPIKE ARRESTOR]

Styler, the sliding yoke end needs to be greased, get it done. It is not even a 10 min job. Get the battery checked through a competent electrician (specific gravity, individual cell conditions etc).

Spike

[Aroy]

It is always a good idea to grease the universal joints and all those points where grease can be pumped to. First of all the pressure greasing gets rid of old grease. Secondly you have fresh grease which does no harm (unless it is a lighter one).

If you have an old battery, I would advise you to change it. Even though it may last, there is no sense it taking a risk.

[SPIKE ARRESTOR]

^^ There is a limitation on how much grease needs to be pumped into, excess grease must be avoided. Generally, while greasing only that amount of grease is pushed into the grease nipple such that the grease slightly pops out. Any excess grease MUST BE AVOIDED!

Spike

[Aroy]

Originally Posted by SPIKE ARRESTOR

^^ There is a limitation on how much grease needs to be pumped into, excess grease must be avoided. Generally, while greasing only that amount of grease is pushed into the grease nipple such that the grease slightly pops out. Any excess grease MUST BE AVOIDED!

Spike

I agree. But what I forgot to say, is that all the grease popped out should be wiped clean. As most of users do not grease regularly, it is a good practice to pop out all the old grease, especially if it has dried out, so that the bearings have fresh grease with no dirt embedded. In fact during my ambassador days, service meant greasing and then washing, ensuring all the excess grease is washed away and the nipples clean.

[anupmathur]

Originally Posted by SPIKE ARRESTOR

^^ There is a limitation on how much grease needs to be pumped into, excess grease must be avoided. Generally, while greasing only that amount of grease is pushed into the grease nipple such that the grease slightly pops out. Any excess grease MUST BE AVOIDED!...

I'm not sure I understand this.
If grease 'pops out' it means the bearing/grease-cup is full to capacity.
Where is the scope for excess? This is the 'overflow' method of greasing, and it is the correct way where thus specified.
There are other places where a measured quantity is pushed/pumped in, by volume or weight, as specified in the instructions.

[SPIKE ARRESTOR]

^^ Anup, sometimes the grease gun is still pressed on to the nipple even though grease starts overflowing, which is not recommended. Hope it is clear now.

Spike

[anupmathur]

Thanks, Spike.
How does one control the overflow? People will pump till they see an overflow.
Also, what about 'replenishing' old grease by forcing out all the old grease?
Would that be a valid procedure?

[comfortablynumb]

Originally Posted by SPIKE ARRESTOR

Styler, the sliding yoke end needs to be greased, get it done. It is not even a 10 min job.

Originally Posted by Aroy

It is always a good idea to grease the universal joints and all those points where grease can be pumped to. First of all the pressure greasing gets rid of old grease. Secondly you have fresh grease which does no harm (unless it is a lighter one).

I have a Feb 2010 mHawk SLE, but the maintenance schedule chart in the service booklet & user manual doesn't list any item related to greasing. Is greasing not required for a mHawk Scorpio? If it is required, at what km intervals should it be done and at what places?

Cheers,
Vikram

[Aroy]

Originally Posted by comfortablynumb

I have a Feb 2010 mHawk SLE, but the maintenance schedule chart in the service booklet & user manual doesn't list any item related to greasing. Is greasing not required for a mHawk Scorpio? If it is required, at what km intervals should it be done and at what places?

Cheers,
Vikram

Not much idea of the interval and points in a Scorpio, but definitely there are grease points in the Universal Joints - "Cross". Others who have the mHawk can chip in. I have found the pumps where trucks are serviced to be knowledgeable in greasing locations of various trucks and SUV.

In general unless you have gone through water (or water has splashed a lot), the interval should not be less than 20k km, or two years. In case there is water ingress, it is better to grease ASAP to get rid of contaminants which may have got in.