[rjstyles69]

Folks solicit your responses on this strange issue. Cross posting from my ownership thread

Originally Posted by rjstyles69

The list of works to be attended to last week when I dropped the car was

1. Gear lever shudder when in slow moving traffic.

Drive 2 in Mysore and I am driving in slow moving traffic and the gear level still shudders coupled with squeaky noise from the clutch pedal. I am a little mad already and that's when I realize that the power window of the right center door also has decided to go on a long walk . (God knows if they even replaced this unit under warranty). I am at the end of my wits now.

Sent an email to M&M customer care and I got a prompt response. Received a call from the AGM (Service) and have been asked to drop the scorp' off for them to check the gear lever shudder problem.

That said, spikey any inputs on what needs to be checked ?

[hvkumar]

Originally Posted by Styler

1. I plan to change all rubber hoses and pipes used for the Cooling system and Fuel.

2. I plan to replace my 3 yr old Amaron in perfect shape (BTW this just the 2nd Battery after the OEM in the 8 year life of my Scorpio) with a new 80 Amp Amaron. Anybody knows the model no of the 80 Amp Amaron ?

3. Should I get the Clutch Plate etc replaced ? What is the life of the clutch with very good driving habbits ? The only thing done with my clutch till now was in the first 3 yrs. I had got both the Clutch Cylenders replaced with TVS from the market from my FNG . That was hardly an expense of 2000. Apart from that there has been no problem with the clutch at all. It still feels perfect. Now I am confused since my vehicle has done 80,000, should get the clutch done as a preventive maintenance routine even though it still in perfect shape.

4. Nozzle /Injector Cleaning. I have been thinking about getting this done at the Mico-Bosch Service Center for over a year now. Somebody had reported that after he got his injectors cleaned before a trip to high altitudes, he had no starting problem with starting at high altitude and the vehicle really improved. Now I am confused if I should just add System G a few times to the tank-full to clean injectors, or should I get them opened and services at the Mico-Bosch Service Center.

5. Alternator -Bearing. Should I get it replaced, although I have had no problems at all. My alternator and self are untouched.

Anything else recommended ?

Main belt, along with pulleys.

Brake pads & liners (takes lots of abuse)

Change all oils, including differential oil, power steering oil, etc

Grease hub assembly and check all wheel bearings.

Change coolant.

Change clutch plate unless you are totally confident that it has at least another 30-40,000 kms life left.

Clean starter motor connectors.

Have alternator performance checked for output and any bearing noise.

[SPIKE ARRESTOR]

Originally Posted by rjstyles69

Sent an email to M&M customer care and I got a prompt response. Received a call from the AGM (Service) and have been asked to drop the scorp' off for them to check the gear lever shudder problem.

Strange, I think you need to look first the suspended pedal (clutch pedal specially and its setting), then move towards the transmission end. BTW has there been any change in pedal effort, gear shift feel (effort / crashing etc)?

Spike

[rjstyles69]

Originally Posted by SPIKE ARRESTOR

Strange, I think you need to look first the suspended pedal (clutch pedal specially and its setting), then move towards the transmission end. BTW has there been any change in pedal effort, gear shift feel (effort / crashing etc)?

Spike

Ok I was planning to start from there coz the clutch pedal does feel tight when compared to what it used to be from the 2nd service. It always was butter smooth and since this problem occurred it feels tight.

Also there is an evident squeak from the pedal which I think should be taken care off if greased properly.

[SPIKE ARRESTOR]

@rjstyles, this is a strange failure mode, keep an eye on how these guys go about the problem and keep us updated.

Spike

[rjstyles69]

Originally Posted by SPIKE ARRESTOR

@rjstyles, this is a strange failure mode, keep an eye on how these guys go about the problem and keep us updated.

Spike

Yeah man. I have a long day at IG tomorrow. The AGM-Service Works has confirmed that there will be some at the workshop, Whitefield tomorrow who is technically competent enough to look into this.

[kaushik_s]

Guys, I saw the light going ON again today. The light came ON again at the same place where it was on before i.e. inside our apartment compound. What I've noticed is that it happens only when I apply brakes when the vehicle is on a downward slope. I tried reproducing it while climbing down to my parking and I saw the light coming ON temporarily again. What should I do? How do I drain out the water?

Originally Posted by kaushik_s

Hi Guys, need some help here. Today while coming back from office I saw the water in fuel filter warning light going on for a few seconds. But after that it never came up again. The manual indicates that the water in the fuel filter needs to be drained and the procedure is mentioned in the self maintanance section. But I couldn't find any reference to do that. Should I take the vehicle to service center to get it done? I filled up fuel today morning only and I'm worried that due to the recent rains there might be water in the fuel. But the light was not constantly on and it happened for a few seconds (10-15) only. Should I be worried?

[Styler]

Thanks, HVK sir,

I just read your post before leaving for Bhasin Motors.
Will report back with what all we do.
Thanks everybody for the tips and help.


Styler

Originally Posted by hvkumar

Main belt, along with pulleys.

Brake pads & liners (takes lots of abuse)

Change all oils, including differential oil, power steering oil, etc

Grease hub assembly and check all wheel bearings.

Change coolant.

Change clutch plate unless you are totally confident that it has at least another 30-40,000 kms life left.

Clean starter motor connectors.

Have alternator performance checked for output and any bearing noise.

[SPIKE ARRESTOR]

Originally Posted by kaushik_s

What should I do? How do I drain out the water?

Kaushik, the process of draining out water is pretty simple.

1. Loosen the Water in fuel sensor at the bottom portion of the fuel filter.
2. Drain the water accumulated (if any) from this region.
3. Tighten fully back to its earlier position.
4. Procedure complete.

Attaching a pic for more clarity.



If still the light comes on, take her to the service center. Hope this helps.

Spike

[hvkumar]

Originally Posted by SPIKE ARRESTOR

Kaushik, the process of draining out water is pretty simple.

1. Loosen the Water in fuel sensor at the bottom portion of the fuel filter.
2. Drain the water accumulated (if any) from this region.
3. Tighten fully back to its earlier position.
4. Procedure complete.

Attaching a pic for more clarity.

Attachment 539835

If still the light comes on, take her to the service center. Hope this helps.

Spike

How different is it for the non-crde Scorpios?

[aviorp]

This might have gone un-noticed in the previous page, hence posting it again.

Model : Scorpio VLX, 2008
KMS : 59970
Interval Since last service : 12000 (approx)

Facing this problem since Sunday.

1. Engine check LED is blinking
2. There is a mild clicking noise (about every 10-15 seconds), from the motor (located to the right of the engine, when facing from the front)

I checked with the A.S.S this morning and the SA said it is the Inductor that has gone bad and needs replacement. Unfortunately I dont have an Extended warranty and he quoted a whopping 18000 for replacement.

Now, what if I dont want to replace it, untill it dies completely? Is it safe?

[SPIKE ARRESTOR]

Originally Posted by hvkumar

How different is it for the non-crde Scorpios?

Non-CRDe Scorpios do not have this sensor.

Originally Posted by aviorp

T
I checked with the A.S.S this morning and the SA said it is the Inductor that has gone bad and needs replacement.

Which Inductor?

Spike

[agbenny]

Originally Posted by agbenny

I checked with the Manager and found that they replaced the clutch slave cylinder as well as the slave tube. They said it comes with a cover now.

Now the problem started in a different way. After a week, I found the clutch has to be pressed 100% or even further till the floor for the first gear -otherwise it become troublesome to push. I decided to take it to them this week during the 24 Service.
Yesterday, they said they will adjust the Pedal ply (play?) and while take the vehicle I found extremely difficult to press - it become horribly hard. To my surprise the service guys says its normal. In my 10 years of driving experience only twice (in an Amby and in a tractor) I had felt such a clutch.

In my opinion Service people drive different vehicles each day, and its might not be easier to feel the changes that how a car owner feels. I am sure something is wrong now, and this not the way the clutch was.

Today, I called them again, made them to accept it, and given the vehicle to service again to make the clutch smoother again.

Do you guys see what the fix could have been for this?

Thanks

I hope my post went unnoticed from you buddies, but I see M&M service people are watching, Thats a good sign, and I appreciate it.

The clutch issue was sorted out by the A.S.S easily, and I got the life in the clutch back - its smooth again.

I wish W201 wouldn't have a separate lengthy (special) thread like this one.

[aviorp]

Originally Posted by SPIKE ARRESTOR

Which Inductor?

Spike

I apologize for the mistake. It is the Alternator.

The SA said, they found the bearing to be loose and they have tightened it for now. There is no clicking noise from the motor and the 'Engine Check' warning LED is no longer glowing.

However, how long should this last? Is it a common problem with the mHawk version?

[SPIKE ARRESTOR]

Originally Posted by aviorp

I apologize for the mistake. It is the Alternator.

The SA said, they found the bearing to be loose and they have tightened it for now. There is no clicking noise from the motor and the 'Engine Check' warning LED is no longer glowing.

However, how long should this last? Is it a common problem with the mHawk version?

OK, bearing was loose or belt? What did the SA say regarding the Engine check lamp glowing?

Spike