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-   -   Turbo-charging my Harley Davidson Fat Bob (https://www.team-bhp.com/forum/superbikes-imports/246277-turbo-charging-my-harley-davidson-fat-bob-4.html)

We will see, if it does go over factory safe temperatures, a fan will be installed to make up for low speed air flow loss. Last time on the Sportster, i had to use a fan from ktm. But last time turbo and plumbing was packaged much tighter to cylinders. Learning from last project, this time i have left a generous 3inch gap between turbo and cylinder fins. That should help.

Recently new Sportster has come out, it's with 121 bhp and 230kg weight.
I think if we can pin it in a sort of race, that would put us comfortably ahead in horsepower. That would be better than an dyno slip.

I was wanting to know how do you plan on building your fuelling and ignition table?

I did talk about it in this video

!https://youtu.be/izG_PdT05ZA

First start!
https://youtu.be/Hp3EMKzSqZs

Yup! Here it is!

The question is not about "in which table" will you make changes to the values!:)

The question was where are you going to be able to load the wheel so that you can read the different MAP values and then tune!

Under acceleration!
Acceleration itself is load.
Anyway here is the first installation run. Just to check everything works fine. HD Video quality will be available shortly.
https://youtu.be/fFNLoLA3alE

Cool! Street tune, haha, thats what most of us do!

Just 1 more point, 13.xx might be a little too lean under boost conditions!

Best of luck!

These are pretty low output, low compression motors, on Sportster I tried different ignition timings and air fuel ratios, all the way to 12:1. It only started pinging when it went into 14:1 AFR. So I ran it in low 13s. I hope to run this one in 13s too, if it doesn't like it of course I will richen the AFR values.

A noob question, what's the aim of turbocharging such bikes which are probably built as long-distance tourers? Does the basic aerodynamic or the frame support such changes?

Won't it be easy to simply have something from the sports category instead?

Long-distance tourer has long been associated with good low-mid range torque aka pulling power. With the appropriate choice of the turbo, we are doing just that. Increase in torque in the range of 2000-5000 rpm mainly.
It's not much about high-speed riding but acceleration from highway speeds. As far as frame strength goes, HD sells stage 4 kits and 131 cubic inch motors as upgrades, they make 120+ bhp and remain in factory warranty + DOT approved.

+ what is as exotic and rare as a Turbocharged big-engined motorcycle.

Mod Note - Please proofread your posts.

This first installation verification run was initially planned for 4-5km but i decided to return within 1 or so km, as two problems were apparent within first few minutes.
First, there was metallic noise at every road rut or undulation as if something of metal is hanging loose or hitting something. I primarily decided to returned as soon as I confirmed to myself that I heard a metallic noise.
Secondly, gear shift was sticky. Gear lever was not returning to it's intermediate position after every upshift.
First problem was found out to be a front fork seal cover (chrome thing that covers the oil seal area), It wasn't snug fitted at all and was bouncing around on front fork leg.
Second problem was due to fouling between gear shift linkage and rear exhaust manifold.
Both have been sorted now.

Had a nice evening ride for 60-70km. Enjoyed a lot after a long time riding in cool wind. Project Coming along nicely.
https://youtu.be/dBjb6QAIEFQ

Lots and lots of lean spots and at places way too rich.
But the beauty of EFI, at least one can identify and improve with pin point accuracy.