Updating the thread after a long time. Nothing new happened during the last couple of years so never felt the need to update the thread.
Starting the post with some random pics taken since last update.
Meanwhile, developed an itch to make some minor changes in aesthetics, added a few new stickers. HONDA sticker on the belly cowl, HRC and Showa on fairing and fender. Hope its not Overdone.
Also changed the indicators to Hero Xtreme 160R’s LED indicators. These indicators glow red unless current limiting resistors are added. I had to install 110 Ohm resister (3 X 330 Ohm in parallel) to limit the current.
Added tail tidy to experiment with the looks, I don't think it suits the rear profile of 650F.
Reinstalled stock fender immediately. Although this time, mudflap extension was removed. A good balance between aesthetics and functionality in my opinion. Design of Xtreme 160R's indicators blend well with stock rectangular tail lamp.
Gear Position Indicator added. Many argue whether its required or not, but it surely helps me.
Paddock stand from GA auto (Rs.3000). Quality and finishing is great.
As I'm closing towards 4th year of ownership (7th year for the bike). A major service was due. OEM spark plugs were already beyond their recommended replacement interval of 24,000 KMs and I was unable to source the special spark plug removal tool for the bike. Lately I was facing rough idling as well, so decided to take it to a superbike mechanic mentioned in post#9 who did the brakes during first month of my ownership.
The work to be done was:
Sparkplugs changed to NGK iridium CR9EIX
Chain sprocket set changed to OEM DID 525V11
Oil and Oil filter changed
Brake bleeding
Throttle body cleaning
Air Filter and filter gaskets changed
Looking at the frequency of oil changes, I used to change oil at around 3500 KMs/10 months. This time, it was changed at ~1800KMs, Given low usage lately.
I never expected what how much of a difference a change of spark plugs can make. The bike now idles smoothly and throttle response is crisp again.
However, thanks to my previous experiences with mechanics, I thoroughly inspected the bike once I was back home to check the quality of work, apart from a loose fairing bolt, I found this;
Master link was badly riveted, should I even call it riveted? It was obvious with the hexagonal shape that mechanic had used an allen key and hammer to flare the pin.
I was paranoid about riding the bike in this condition. Given that there is no topline showroom within 600 KMs radius and couldn’t find any mechanic who had the proper riveting tool. Decided to do this myself and ordered Rolon chain breaking and riveting tool. I mean “How hard can it be?” (read in Jeremy Clarkson’s voice)
This was the only chain breaking and riveting kit available online which can be used with 525 and 530 chains. Priced 4250/-, available at rolon’s official website. Ordering experience isn’t good, No one replies back to mails and number is also rarely picked. Took 15 days to reach me. There was no status update once order was placed.
Coming to the tool, Its contents can be seen here,
quality of tool is strictly average. Plate pressing pin doesn’t fit well inside the tool somehow, Breaking and flaring pin are fine. Biggest design flaw with the tool is that its operated with a small allen key which doesn’t give enough leverage to flare the pin properly. I had to attach a ring spanner to the allen key to get the required leverage.
Anyways, before I get carried away, let me continue with the experience. The OEM chain code was DID525V11 and I couldn’t find the master link for it anywhere. Wasn’t available in Bigwing topline service centers as well. I found a similar looking masterlink online made for DID 525 VX series chain and placed the order.
A week later, I carefully removed the badly riveted master link,
lubed and prepared my new masterlink for insertion.
But something wasn’t right. Why wouldn’t it fit? Got the answer soon enough. OEM Pins are 4.8mm in diameter, while the masterlink made for 525VX3 had 5.4mm pin diameter.
Heart sank. Only 2 options appeared before me, either burn a hole in my pocket and buy a new chain that’ll come with its own master link, or find phone number of each and every bigwing topline service center, call them and try to find the OEM chain master link.
Fortunately I found it in Bigwing topline Kolkata and was promptly delivered to me. Once the correct link was there, rest of the process went smoothly.
Pressing the plates to correct width. (Have to ensure all links, including master link are of same width)
Stock Pin head is 5mm which has to be flared to 5.5mm. Didn't took pics of actual work and how tool is used since there are plenty of tutorials online. @gunin has written an excellent tutorial
here (DIY: Chain sprocket and Chain replacement for Mahindra Mojo)
The whole work takes less than 2 hours even for a beginner like me. Once the process was done, chain was adjusted for optimum slack, lubed. Finally took the bike out for a ride after close to 2 months.
There's one question that's bothering me lately. I've taken opinion of friends and family but its not helping. Can any of you help me with this?
The question is, How do I kill the urge to upgrade to something bigger?